



'^.^'i' 












*s»'>^ 




























K. ^. KiN.d^ve;\^% &t to.^ 



jManu-factiarers ot 



Office ^ School Furniture, 

195 and 197 Wabash Ave., Chicago, 111. 



A\\ VTork taWj Guaranteed of Best Klln-Drieil Inmber. 

Samples of work §een in the new Custom Hoase and Cook Co. Court House furnished by this Arm. 




Wo. 43. IiOTV Curtain. 



ETo. 498. Library Table. 



Polygon, Closed. 



Bank | Office Fittings 



in elegant styles, and special designs, 
in all hinds of Hardwoods. 



Bank Counters, Wood Mantels, Library Fittings, Ladles' Desks, Etc. 




Opera Chairs. 

See tlieae chairs in Central 
Music Hall^ New Academy of 
Music^ Grand Opera House, 
Haverly's, and elseixihere They 
have Hat-rack, Foot-rest, Tilt 
ing-back. Umbrella and Cane- 
rest. 

Settees and Assembly Chairs 
for Hall and Church Seating 




School Furniture and Apparatus, such as Blackboards (all kinds) 
Globes, by far the largest variety in this country. 




stationary Top, 

Andrews' 

Triumpli School Desk, 

Highest Centennial and 
Paris Awards. 




Folding Top. 



This Deak, irith 

Folding Lid and Seat, 

Is the most important improve^ 
raent of the age in School 
Desks. 



Andrews' Lunar Tellurian Globe is the most remarkable and perfect invention 
ever produced, for showing in addition to Geography, the changes of Season and 
Causes, Twilight, Phases of the Moon, Eclipses, Tides, etc. Jt shows the revolution 
of Earth about the Sun ; also, that of Moon around Earth. 



ANDREWS' PARLOR FOLDING BEDS. 



Occupy one-fourth the space 
of the clumsy common beds, 
hence save room-rent ! All 
the bedding, pillows and 
mattress fold out of sight 
instantly. The improved 
woven wire mattress goes 
with each bed, ensuring 
comfort. 

Made in form of Book- 
cases, Dressing-cases, Secre- 
taries, etc. Parties interested 
are invited to call and see 
these beds at our warerooms. 



Price, from $25 Upward. 



Biu-r P»at. M:a,dle in SS Styles. 





Secretary Bed Open. 




Secretary Bed Closed and Writing Leaf Open. 

These beds have tli£ most perfect ventila- 
tion of any bed ever made ; see cut show- 
ing the bed constantly 
open to the air when 
folded. They are on 
casters and easily roll 
from one room to another. 
The main points of ex- 
cellence in these beds no 
other beds have, nor can 
have. 
When moving, or in case of fire, 
bed and bedding can be instantly 
rolled out of the room. 



THE BEDS ARE 
Liglit : 

X^leg'a.iit I 

Portable I 

Coiii±t>rta.tole I 



After six years' trial the demand 
is unprecedented. See published 
commendations from many first- 
i class families in this city and 
elsev/here. 

KearView of Folding Bed No. 9. Call aild SfiB TlieHl. 

Mmfd only by J^., H. AndPCWS & Co., 

195 <& 197 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO. 



THE 




CHICAGO'S BEST DAILY. 



All tli8 Seis for TWO CENTS. 
FIFTY CENTS psrffloiitliliyMaa. 



THE 




EMID, 



Eight Pages. Five Cents. 
By Mail, $2.00 per Year. 

Jessup Whitehead, the author of this book, is a 
regular contributor to this Edition of the Herald. 



CHICAGO 




An Eight Page Newspaper for $1. 



Address THE CHICAGO HERALD, 

120 and 122 Fifth-av., Chicago, III. 
JAMES W. SCOTT, Publisher. 



American Pastry Cook, $2.00. 

3S\X&W^mmtPi Hotel Meat Cocking, $150. 

(-^UK ^ti.lUUll» Herald Cooking School, a First Glass 

''©WCtt aiX^ ilange'' PamilyCook Book, $1.50. 

©0011 ^00feB. Address Daily Herald or National 

Hotel Eepobtee, Chicago, or, order 
By Jesstjp 'WhitehBAD, through any bookseller. 

These are called the ' 'Oven and Range" cook books, from the fact that the 
recipes have been during a period of several years contributed in weekly installments 
to a copyrighted column of the Caily National Hotel Reporter, headed "Oven and 
Range Depaetment." 

This method continued for a long time, while it made it very necessary for the 
author to test and prove everything before committing it to print, has also made it 
generally known that the "Oven and Range" recipes are absolutely perfect, and the 
Hebald Cooking School being composed of the same recipes reduced to small 
quantities to suit the requirements of famUies, carries the same guarantee of excell- 
ence by bearing the same stamp — the book is commended to your favor by the repu- 
tation already earned by its predecessors. 



The only comprehensible and practical cook books extant. 

— New York Hotel Mail. 



" The best receipts for making all sorts of nice dishes ever contributed 
to the American press." — Boston Saturday Evening Gazette. 



THE 



CHICAGO HERALD 



■^COOKING! SCHOOLS' 



_& PRDFESSIQNAL CDDK'S HaDK 
FDR HDUSEHDLn USE, 



CONSISTING OF 



A Sarlas nf Manus for Every nay IVEeals and for Private Entartaln- 
mants, -w/itli Minute Instructions for making 
.A Every iirticle Named, 



OEIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN THE CHICAGO DAILY HERALD. 




JESSUP WHITEHEAD, 

Author of the 'Ouen and Range," Hotel Cook Books and "Cooking for Profit' 



CHICiiG-D 

iBBa, 



' V CFCO, 

jii^'i 9£> 1883 , , 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S82, by Jessup Whitehead, in the 
Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 



^ 



PUBLISHED BT THE AUTHOK 

At the Office of the Daily National Hotel Beporter, 
180 & 182 Washln^on Street, 

, CHICAGO, LLLS. 



Eleotkottped BT Blomgken Bkob. & Co. Pbinted and Bound Br John Anderson & Co. 

162 and 164 Clark Street, 87 and 89 TrankUn Street, 

Chicago. Chicago. 



-^DEniCATIDNi^-. 



^^F THE matters herein contained prove useful in book form as we 
'^ are assured they have already heenl found in their serial puhli- 
cation, the credit is due to Mr. Jahes W. Scott, publisher of the 
Chicago Daily Herald, who first admitted me to print before' the 
Herald's day, and has been constant with generous aid and encour- 
agement for a task of several j^ears' continuance. 

THE AUTHOR. 



•»*l>REFflGE'N- 



MLL THE BOOKS of this des(tription that have oeen worthy of consid- 
eration seem to have had a leading motive for their composition, 
either to introduce foreign modes, to teach new schools of cookery 
or new extremes of ornamentation, to teach manners, or to put in practice 
the theories of great chemists and new idea doctors-^Leibig, Graham, 
the YSgetarians, and others. If a motive can be found for the work in 
hand, it is to make good cooks; such as are always in demand at good 
wages. It was commenced in a persistent endeavor of the writer, to 
break in imtrained assistants to do cooking as it should be done, and the 
utmost plainness of language and exactness of quantities that were neces- 
sary in such cases have been preserved as the main requisites to the 
usefulness of the book. Already, before the appearance of the Goohing 
School in book form, a sort of wondering surprise had been expressed 
that fine cooking could be such a plain and easy matter, as if there was 
an expectation that the mysterious part would begin after awhile; but 
doubtless the day is past for the most necessary' art of cookery to be 
hidden and made unintelligible by the use of unknown words and phrases. 
At least, when the writer wanted assistants to do something in a certain 
way, he used the kind of language to make them understand. Perhaps 
that is why this is called a cooking school. 

In regard to the reliability of the recipes, it would be expressing 
but little to say they have all been tried, for they have been matters of 
daily practice for years, and BJOSt of them ha^ve been changed and im- 



proved until it is believed the highest pitch of excellence has been 
reached and may always be by those who carefully follow the directions. 
There is much more in the book than at first may appear, for nothing is 
repeated and almost every dish — every meat dish and soup at any rate 
is a model for a number of other articles to be prepared in the same 
way, for example : there is one real fricassee thickened with eggs, that 
of frogs ; one stew with wine, that of terrapin ; one bird pie with brown 
gravy, one with common stew gravy; one example of a blanquette or 
white dish, the supreme of fowl, and so it will be found all through. 
There has been a special avoidance of the terrible "or" of most cook 
books, which invariably leads off to different persons' ways of doing the 
same thing and to the inquirer who docs know something when she has 
read the first recipe, ending by knowing nothing after perusing them 
all. Where there are more ways than one, one of them must be the 
best, and the author of a cook book should be able to say which it is. 
As to the menus, the writer has never during an extended experi • 
ence found it practicable or desirable to follow a pattern bill-of-fare in 
every particular, there are too many reasons for changing the intentions ; 
either there is something in the house that must be used, or the dealer 
who supplies the house has not the particular article on hand or some- 
thing else is in the way, so that, at best, a pattern menu can only serve 
as a suggestion of dishes to choose from. As nothing is repeated in the 
lists of available dishes here presented, the number of changes and 
substitutions that can be made will be found very considerable. 



THE HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



This hungry man's delight which we have be- 
fore US is the New England Boiled Dinner. H is 
much more pleasant to treat of a thing as the 
very article than to iiave it appear vaguely as one 
of the indefinite number and variety of boiled 
dinners. It gives one a sense of possession. 
Doubtless there were in the long ago other 
boiled dinners, but they lacked the staying 
quality, and were incomplete in some important 
particulars; this has come down the stream from 
the grauite hills liice a rock in a river, jostled and 
chipped and woru smooth and rounded up into 
an entity with a name just like a boulder. It 
would be interesting to inquire how comes it 
just this, neither more nor less, a rounded up 
dishful, symmetrical in its proportions, passing 
current in the market of meals over the city 
counters as a pumpkin or melon or cabbage head 
in the vegetable ma;'ket, although made up of 
parts. Suppose it to have originated where the 
soil was thin, where the potatoes were small and 
few in a hill, and had to battle with the stones to 
grow at all, and the parsnips and carrots found 
no place to push their long roots down and 
so gave it up and stopped short : where the vege- 
tables were habitually small and could be crowd- 
ed many in a dish ; where the pork had always 
two streaks of lean to one of fat, and the beef 
only appeared when a neighbor killed and lent a 
quarter till the other neighbor should kill and 
pay it back, what preservative principle has 
enabled the New England Boiled Dinner to keep 
itself together through all the changes encoun- 
tered while spreading over this great country? 
Why did it not lose one thing here, and 
another there and get mixed up and obliterated? 
How did it get over the difficulties in the rich 
valleys of the West when it found the vegetables 
growing to enormous sizes and the corn-fed beef 
and pork all fat? How often must there have 
been spoonfuls of succotash or of beans, or a sec- 
tion of squash or pumpkin, or peas or corn sur- 
reptitiously crowded into the dish? Why did 
they not remain? How did the New England 
Boiied Dinner get rid of them and come out 
clean as we see it to-day? And having passed 
through so much, how much more could it 
endure and come out intact? In going South 
how much of an addition of corn, peas, butter 
beans, rice, and sweet potatoes can it bear and 
still be itself? In going down the Pacific, at 



what degree of mixture with water and Chili 
pepper will it cease to be itself aud become Mb.x.- 
ican stew ? "Take away my first, take away my 
second, take away my all, and I am still the 
same," says the riddle, but can the New England 
Boiled Dinner say the same ? 

Let us take it apart and see what it is composed 
of. How many of its parts, if any, could be lopped 
off before it would cease to be? 



MENU NO. I— DINNER. 



1— New England Boiled Oinnei' 

Consists of: 

2 portions of corned beef. 

1 portion of salt pork 

1 portion of cabbage 

1 potato. 

1 parsnip. 

1 carrot. 

1 turnip. 

1 onion. 

1 beet. 

For five persons the average required will be 
two pounds of corned beef (raw weight) and one 
half-pound of pork. Wash the beef in plenty of 
cold water and put it on in cold water to cook. 
Shave off whatever of the outside of the pork 
you would not like in soup, and boil the pork 
with the beef, but for a much shorter time. 

Cut the vegetables in pieces and cook each 
kind separately if practicable; the beets at any 
rate must be kept apart, and the cabbage should 
be drained of the first water and finished boiling 
in a second or with the meat. Pare the potatoes 
before cooking, steam them and serve them 
whole. 

When all are done place all the vegetables in 
sections to themselves on a large platter, slice 
the beef and pork and lay on the top and send to 
table hot. 



To cook' such a dish as that properly is mora 
of a triumph of common sense than of skill. Had 
the New England Boiled Dinner been left to 
depend for its preservation upon us, the very 
fine cooks, it would have perished and been for- 
gotten long ago, for through the division of labor 
in large houses it often occurs that the cook who 
makes the compounds knows nothing about the 
plain vegetables. So the boiled dinner that has 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



survived so much would have come up with the 
oorued beef half done and tough enough to 
spring off the dish — for the corned pieces nine 
times out of ten are such as would not do to 
roast or broil— and the pork would be too soft to 
slice. The potatoes tliat will steam in thirty 
minutes would be spoiled while waiting for the 
carrots, which take two hours, or the parsnips 
and onions, which require one hour and a half, 
or the turnips, one hour, or the cabbage, which 
one day may cook soft in twenty minutes and an- 
other day take an hour or more — owing to the kind 
and the season of the year. The corned beef 
generally requires three hours boiling to make 
it good, depending, however, upon the quaUty 
and size of the beef. 



It willbe seen from the above examples that to 
cook by boiling a good deal of head work is nec- 
essary, if not much skill. It is not a sort of 
knowledge that will come of itself, as a knowl- 
edge of broiling might. Somebody has observed 
that Homer in all his writmgs never once men- 
tions boiling as a mode of cooking, although he 
describes a number of feasts and in one place 
has Achilles doing the broihng for a party of 
Kings, his guests. So it is inferred that boiled 
dinners were at that time unknown. People 
were not wise enous;h. 



The most difficult vegetable we have to over- 
come by boiling is the beet, and because it takes 
a long time its luck is, generally, to be left un- 
covered and neaxiy boiled dry, open to the ai r 
with neither steam nor water, and somebody goes 
about fuming because there is no end to the 
boiling. The time can be reduced one-half by 
covering with a tight lid. A subscriber writes to 
an editor asking if it be true that certain articles 
take longer to boil, or cannot be boiled at all, at 
great elevations, and is answered in the affirma- 
tive, and instances quoted from the Baron Von 
Humboldt, who could not cook potatoes on the top 
of a certain mountain range. But it should be ob- 
served the experiments only referred to the low 
boiling point of water in open vessels, and took 
no account of confined and superheated steam. 
In point of fact, the people who live in very ele- 
vated localities find very little difference in the 
time required for cooking any article over lower 
elevations, provided they keep the lid on the ket- 
tle. 

The liquor in which corned beef and 
salt pork has been boiled may not be 
very commendable as stock to make soup out of, 
yet it may be so available in some oases if not 
too salt. The meat loses from a fourth to a third 
of its weight in boiling, and a portion of the loss 
is prevented when the liquor can be put to use. 



If not for that purpose, let it become cold for the 
fat to be taken off for use in frying. 



2.— Apple Duinplings Cooked in Sauce. 

First make the short paste with one pound of 
flour — a heaping quart after sifting — four ounces 
of shortening, a rounded-up cupful of minced 
suet, or a level cup of cold butter or lard, one 
cupful of water, salt. Keep out a handful of 
flour to dust with. Rub the lard into the flour 
dry till thoroughly mixed. Put in the salt and 
all the water ; work it up to a smooth caste ; roll 
it out once on the table like pie paste; fold it in 
three and it is ready for use. The water should 
always be poured into a hollow in the middle of 
the flour when making any kind of paste, and the 
flour drawn in gradually while stirring, other- 
wise the paste may be rough and lumpy, and 
much working to correct the fault will make it 
hard. 

The above is the kind and quality of paste 
used in most of the bakeries for pies; it is the 
universally useful sort. DumpUngs made of it 
do not break when boiled in water. But while 
the top of the range is occupied with the boiled 
dinner the empty oven will do for the dumplings. 
Half fill a bright tin pan with milk and water 
and set it in the oven to boil. Pare and core 
small bui good and easy cooking apples. Roll 
out the paste in one large sheet, put an apple un- 
der and close and pinch off the paste underneath 
the apple — quickest way — and cook the dump- 
lings in the pan. They take about half an hour. 
Brush a sheet of paper over with melted drip- 
pings and lay it on top to keep the dumplings 
from baking at first, and take it off, baste and 
brown them when nearly done. Add sugar and a 
little butter and nutmeg to the liquor in the pan; 
strain and use it for sauce. 



I know a gentleman who, both for his own 
gratification and to perpetuate the custom of his 
father, always orders his apple dumplings when 
made as above, brought to him on a soup plate, 
and all it will hold. That is why there is no par- 
ticular number of apples specified. 



3 — Tapioca Jelly with Cream. 

13»2 pints of water — S large cupfuls. 

3 ounces of pearl tapioca — J.^ teacupful. 

(i ounces of sugar — a teacupfuL 

l-^ a lemon. 

StBep the tapioca in one cupful of the water 
for two hours. The water is to be cold when 
added, but the bowl may be set in a warm place. 
Then boil the other two cups of water with the 
sugar in it; cut the lemon rind, or part of it, into 
shreds and throw it in and add the juice. Stir 
in the steeped tapioca, and let cook at the side of 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



the range till transparent — about twenty min- 
utes. May be colored with burnt sugar or cran- 
berry syrup. Set in wetted cups or a mold. 
Serve cold, with sweetened cream. The rough 
tapioca can be used as well, but should be 
crushed by rolling. 



4— Sugar Cakes or Cookies. 

1 cupful of sugar — 8 ounces. 
J^ cupful of butter — 4 ounces. 
Seggs 

3^ cupful of milk. 

2 teaspoonf uls of baking powder. 
1 pound of flour. 

Mix in the order as prmted. Sif i sugar over 
before cutting out. 



5— Cup aid Spoon Measurp. 

There can be very little good cooking without 
exact measures and weights If scales accurate 
enough to weigh by ounces cannjt be had it is 
possible to get along and do fine work even by 
just finding a cup or tumbler that holds }^ pint 
and then learning how much a cup of each arti- 
cle is in weight. 

A teacupful when it may occur in this book 
means something less than a cup. 

A CUP is a }{ pint coffee cup. 

Water — A cup is }^ pint, which is 8 ounces. 

Milk — Same as water, vinegar the same. 

MoLA SEs — A cup weighs 12 ounces. 

Sugar — A rounded oup is 8 ounces. 

Butter — A pressed-in oup, or melted, is 7 
ounces. 

Flour — A level cup is 4 ounces, heaped 6 
ounces. 

Suet — Minced fine, a cup is 4 ounces. 

Laed — A cup is 7 ounces, pressed or melted. 

Raisins — A heaped cup, without stems, is 8 
ounces. A quart is a pouud. 

Currants — A heaped cup is 6 ounces. 

Eggs — A cup of raw egg is .5 egsts. 

TOLKS — A cup holds lo raw yolks. 

Whites — A cup holds 9 raw whites. 

Whole Eggs— 10 average a pound. 

Rice — A oup of raw rice is 7 ounces. 

Ground Coffee — A heaping cup is 4 ounces. 

Tea — A"heaping cup is 2 ounces. 

A Basting SPOON holds 4 tablespoonfuls; it 
holds 2 ounces of molasses, or 1 ounce of melted 
butter or lard. 

A Tablespoon holds 1 ounce, heaped, of sugar, 
flour, starch, rice, barley, sago, corn-meal; or }^ 
ounce of ground coffee. Fourteen tablespoon- 
fuls are i^ pint or cup. liquid measure. 

A Teaspoonful is half as much as a table- 
spoonful ; it is J^ ounce of many articles ; a tea- 
spoonful of tea is J| ounce; of ground coffee 
^ ounce. 

Size of an egg of butter or lard is anything 
from 1 to 3 ounces. 

Oysters — A cup is 1 dozen selects or 2 dozen 



small ; 4 cups are a quart. A can of oysters 
contains from 3 to i}{ dozen. 



Apples average i to a pound. 

Potatoes — Average 6 to a pound; they lose 
from one-third to one-half their weight by par- 
ing raw, but only 15 pounds out of 100 if cooked 
and peeled afterwards. 

Potatoes — 2, as usually served with a meal, 
cost less than J^ cent. 

Coffee— To the gallon }{ pound is the usual 
allowance; 1 tablespooiiful makes a good cup. 

Tea — To the gallon 3^ pound is the usual al- 
lowance; 1 teaspoonful makes a good cup. 

Sugar — 3 teaspoonfuls sweetens J^ pint; al- 
low a pound to a gallon of coffee or tea. 

The cheapest dishes that are good as well as 
cheap are Irish stew, soup, macaroni, potpies, 
apple dumplings. The dearest are fried meats. 



MENU NO. n.— SUPPER. 



6-Cratked Wheat, Musli anil Milk. 

8 cupfuls of water. 

1 cupful of cracked wheat, large. 

1 teaspoonful of salt 

Use a flat-bottomed, bright iron saucepan. 
Brush the inside with the least possible amount 
of melted lard. This reduces the tendency to 
burn and lessens the waste. Let the water boil 
and stir in the wheat and salt, and after a few 
minutes' boiling again push the saucepan to the 
back of the stove and let it eiraraer with the 
steam shut in for three honre. Peopje who re- 
member to do everything at the right time steep 
the wheat before cooking. 



It is not the wheat itself that burns on the bot- 
tom, but the dust or flour in it that has nothing 
else to do but sink and stick and burn even be- 
fore the water gets into motion by boiling. Wash 
the wheat in two waters as you would rice to get 
rid of the fine dust, and it will not scorch. An- 
other expedient is to set the saucepan on a brick 
when the top of the range is too hot Cracked 
wheat mush is served in a bowl by itself, and 
another bowl containing cream, set in a plate. 



Most people in Chicago are familiar with the 
appearance of the kind of rolls shown in the cut, 
for they are made in vast quantities and in great 
perfection at some of the city bakeries, where 
they are generally called cream rolls, but made 
of varying degrees of richness they are known 
the country over as French rolls, or Parker 
House, or by bakers generally as split rolls, be- 
cause they part open in the middle. The parting 
can be caused in any shape or kind of bread by 
brushing the dough where it is doubled together 
with a touch of melted lard or butter, no matter 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



how little. Plaiu rolls placed close together in 
the pans will part clean and even wherever they 
are so greased between. 




7- French Rolls. 

For fifteen and tweutv rolls take 

1 coffeecupful of milk or water. 

\i cupful of potato yeast. 

1 egg ov the yolk only. 

3 tablespoonfula of melted butter. 

1 tablespoonful of sugar. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 

IM pounds of flour — 6 cupf uls. 

Sift the flour into a pan, make a hollow in the 
middle, mix the yeast and water together and 
pour them in through a strainer. Throw in the 
sugar, salt, egg and melted butter; stir around 
till half the flour is taken in, and then beat the 
batter thoroughly. Draw in the rest of the flour, 
beating all the while, and then scrape out the 
pan and knead the dough smooth on the table. 
Brush the inside of the pan with the least poasi- 
ble amount of melted lard, and when the lump 
of dough is put back in it brush over the top of 
that likewise. This prevents a crust forming on 
the dough, and prevents sticking to the pan. 
Cover with a cloth and set in a moderately warm 
place to rise. 



The dough should be made at 8 or 9 in the 
morning. The milk or water should be milk- 
warm, but must not be hot enough to kill the 
yeast. In the city almost everybody uses com- 
pressed yeast and one cake dissolved in half a 
cup of water will be the same as the potato yeast 
called for. In the country the home-made or 
else the yeast cakes have to be used. One of 
the great city bakers told me the other day in a 
half confidential way, not knowing that I under- 
stood the business, that the best potato yeast 
started with baker's stock yeast is far better than 
the compressed, and he always keeps a little on 
hand, though the bulk of his bread is made with 
the compressed. The trouble in buying baker's 
yeast is they water it too much, and nearly all 
yeast and no water has to be used to raise rolls 
quick and well. 



At 2 o'clock knead the dough on the table 
again for a few minutes; then put it back in the 
pan to rise a second time. At 4 knead it once 
more and make it into rolls. It makes the great- 
est difference in the quality of bread and rolls 
how the dough is kneaded. If you make it up in 
a round ball on the table and keep pressing it 
under the wrists, breaking it and pulling it over, 
it will make poor bread, short and crumbly and 
mealy, and not sweet ealhig. The right way, 
and really the greatest point in bread mak.ng, is 
to press out the dough flat with the knuckles, 
then double it and press out again, and so on for 
several minutes. The best city bakeries sell a 
yellow twisted shape of sweetened bread, a rusk 
or coffee cake, that can be pulled apart almost in 
strings, and it is made so solely by the way of 
working the dough above recommended. 




The dough, having been sufficiently kneaded, 
roll it up in round balls, roll a depression across 
in the middle with a round stick like a piece of 
new broom handle, brash over in the hollow 
with a touch of melted lard or tratter, double 
over the two sides together, prena down nearly 
flat, place the rolls diagonally in a baking pan, 
not touching each other, brush over the tops 
and set them to rise nearly an hour, then bake in 
a hot oven about ten minutes. Brush over with 
clear water when they come out, and cover them 
with a white cloth till served. 



The preceding constitutes the programme of 
bread-making, and will serve for reference for 
numerous fancy breads to come. In warm 
weather the safer way is to set sponge (make bat- 
ter) first, and add the enriching ingredients and 
the rest of the flour at the 2 o'clocK working. It is 
safer as a precaution against souring or over- 
fermentation. 



8— RechauftB of Beef, Muttan or Veal. 

1 large cupful of meat cut in dice. 

IJ^ cupfuls of raw potatoes same way. 

1 small onion cut or chopped. 

Butter size of a walnut. 

1 teaspoonful of salt and half as much pepper. 

Parsley, and flour to thickea 

Nothing is better for this than cold corned beef, 
and it should be one-fourth fat. Whatever the 
meat may be, shave off whatever of the outside 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



looks black or torn that the dice shapes may be 
even and not discolored. Set the meat on two hours 
before the meal, with "water enough to cover it, 
and let it simmer an hour. Then add the onion, 
pepper and salt, and the potatoes. Cook half an 
hour longer and throw in the butter and a little 
chopped parsley. It is best when two or three 
turns of a spoon amongst the potatoes thickens 
it sufticiently, otherwise a heaping teaspoonful 
of flour worked up with the butter can be added. 



A Dish of Cold Meat 

Looks very much more inviting when the meat 
is thinly sliced, with a knife that is ground more 
than once a year, and laid in neat order on a plat- 
ter with a few sprigs of parsley or cress, and a 
dish of beets in vinegar set near than when the 
misshapen lump is set on the table as it is, for 
some one to carve in pain and tribulation. 



9— Potato Salad Plain. 

A pint bowl of cooked and sliced potatoes. 

1 small onion, sliced or chopped. 

% cupful of vinegar. 

Parsley, salt, pepper. 

1 tablespoonful of salad oil, or of fried bacon 
fat. 

Jlix all together by pouring from one bowl to 
another and shaking up. 



10 — A licsson in Braising:. 

Braising is a little process in cookery that is 
but little known — by that name — but without 
understanding it it is impossible to be a very 
good cook. But many an old Virginia black 
a.unty, and many another in the places where 
open fire places prevail, bakes something that 
has a wonderfully savory smell while cooking 
and delicious juciness when done in her old- 
fashioned oven or skillet, or whatever it is on the 
hearth with a lid and coals on top of it, without 
ever dreaming that she is carrying on the 
process of braisiug, one of the chief methods of 
French cookery, and in a manner more success- 
ful through her constant practice than the imita- 
tion done on top of a range can generally be. 
Braise is still very often spelt braize. It is from i 
the name of the vessel formerly used, a brazier, | 
having hot coals on top as well as underneath. 
An article so cooked is described in French 
menus aa "braise," with an accent on the e, but 
whether in that form or as "braised" there are 
few commonly-appearing words that are so little 
understood. The English substitutes used are 
"potted" and "smothered," which, however, are 
not equivalents and not of single meaning. We 
are particular in trying to lay this down plainly, 
because any one who is familiar with the tradi- 
tions of that savory home cooking that mnde the 
■urjiey or duck or suckling pig, or Dinah's 



'coon or 'possum with sweet potatoes browning 
alongside of it, that cooking that was done in the 
oven on the hearth, with coals under and on top, 
and that has always been declared to beat any- 
thing the city cooks ever do, now knows better 
what we are trying to do when we set about 
"braising," in one minute, than if they had fol- 
lowed us through the possible mystifications of 
French cooks' terms for months. It may aa well 
be stated at once that there is no method that is 
good that the masters of French cookery have not 
adopted, and where possible improved upon, 
and they have made the best possible use of this 
method of cooking with the steam shut in and 
little or no water, simmering the meat in its own 
gravy and fat, keeping the outside soft and free 
from crust and discoloration, even while gettmg 
it shining brown. And not content only to make 
the meat tender), for the toughest goose even 
can be dissolved into soup meat by this way of 
cooking), they delighted to change the flavors of 
the meats and make them seem like something 
else Ijy adding large proportions of vegetables 
and an undue allowance of spices. The great 
use of braising with us ia to mako the tough and 
dry and undesirable pieces of meat or fowl or 
game tender and even delicious eating by slow 
cookmg in little more liquor than their own 
gravy. And we shall do well, if we would please 
the taste of the generality of neople, not to 
throw into the skillet or oven the multifarious 
seasonings of the French style, but to follow the 
home practice of only an onion, pepper and salt, 
and perhaps a few sprigs of garden herbs. 



MENU NO. III.— BREAKFAST. 



11— Braised Beef Rolls and Mashed Potatoes. 

People who buy round steaks of the butchers 
find over half of it tender and juicy, fit for broil- 
ing; but there is a tough side, the smaller half of 
the steak, that it ia difiicult to serve acceptably. 
Take such pieces and split them thinner, lay- 
ing the meat on the board, the hand on top of It, 
and cutting through the flat way with a sharp 
knife. Sprinkle over these thin slices a little 
minced onion and a plentiful seasoning of pepper. 
The salt goes in the saucepan, for a good reason. 
Then roll up the pieces like thick sausages. 
They will do without tying if held down in the 
saucepan by a plate resting on them, but it ia 
neater to tie with thread and take off the thread 
when they are done. Lay the bits of fat or suet 
or a thin slice of salt pork on the bottom of the 
.saucepan and place the beef rolls on that ; add 
about a teaspoonful of salt, and, if liked, 
a piece of tiirnip and three or four grains 
of allspice oru little thyme. Grease with drippings 
a round piece of paper and lay that on top of the 
meat, pour in a cupful or two of broth or water, 



10 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



put on the lid and cook very slowly for about two 
hours. 

The particular differeuce between braising and 
boiling ia that in braising there is never enough 
liquor to allow the meat to rise and tumble about ; 
the cooking is done by slow simmering at the' 
back of the range or set on bricks, or possibly, 
still covered with paper and lid in the oven, and 
the essence is always ready to be quickly con- 
verted into gravy. When the meat is done ten- 
der, the water all evaporated, the grease clear 
and the gravy o( the meat aduering to the sauce- 
pan bottom, before it gets too dark to taste well, 
take otit the rolls, pour the fat into your jar of 
drippings, put a cup of water into the saucepan 
and let it boil up ; thicken and strain for gravy, 
to be poured over the meat rolls at last. 

That is braizing. In some places whole hams 
are braized iu a gallon of wine in the same way 
and the condensed wine and meat juice at the 
last becomes the sauce. We cannot, with our 
stove or rauge to cook on, put the hot coals on 
top of the brazier and cannot in that way bake 
the rick brown on top that comes after the water 
has dried out by boiling, but the same effect is 
obtained by I'olUng the meats over on the brown- 
ing gravy at the bottom. And if a suitable pot 
and lid be at command the watching and 
trouble of this method ia considerably lessened 
by setting it inside the oven and letting the pro- 
cess go on at a moderate heat or with the oven 
door open. 

Supposing our beef roll to have been done in 
that way, to dish up jjlace some mashed potatoes 
on a family platter, smooth over, lay the beef 
rolls crosswise on top and press them down a 
little and pour part of the gravy over alk 



Articles that need all the time in the morning 
to cook should be made ready over night and the 
fragments of that day's provisions so cleaned up 
and put to use. 

13— Fried Corn or Mock Oysters. 

1 pint of green corn or X can. 

1 egg- 

1 tablespoonful of melted butter. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Take half a can or less of the corn that is solid 
packed and pasty, and mash h in a pan to make 
it imitate the green corn when it is grated, 
mix in the other Ingredients. Have a f rymg pan 
ready, hot, with a httle drippings, lard or Ijutter 
in it, shape up the corn with a tablespoon, drop 
in the pan and flatten down and fry on both sides. 
The grated fresh corn has the closestresemblance 
to the oyster taste. 

13— Graham MiifiHns Raised with Yeast. 

8 ounces of graham flour — 3 cupfuls. 

4 ounces of white flour — 1 cupful. 

1 J^ cupfuls of liquor — milk and yeast mixed. 



1 tablespoonful of molasses. 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 
1 egg. Salt J^ teaspooQful. 

Mix these things together over night; they 
make a stiff batter The milk should be luke- 
warm when the yeast is mixed with it, not hot 
Beat the mixture a minute or two. Scrape down 
the sides of the pan, smooth over the top with 
the back of a spoon, dipped in melted lard to pre- 
vent a crust drying on the top, then set the bat- 
ter in a moderately warm place to rise. In the 
morning beat up again, put iu greased gem pans 
or muffin rings, rise half an hour, and bake. 

But if you have Graham bread dough already 
made — plain dough for loaves, we mean — and 
wish to make some mnffiins for breakfast of part 
of it, use these proportions. 

14^Graham M-iiffins Made with Li;rht Dough. 

1 pound of dough, already light. 

2 tablespoonsful of butter, melted. 
1 tablespoonful of molasses. 

}4 cupful of warm milk. 

1 egg or 3 yolks. Salt. 

Put the piece of dough in a pan with all the 
other ingredients and set them in a moderately 
warm place awhile, then mix well together and 
beat the mixture several mmutes. Half fill 
greased mufSn rings with the batter, let rise till 
the rings are full, and bake about eight minutes. 
Brush over with a little hot water and butter 
when done. Make ten to fifteen, according to 
size. 



15— Rice Batter Calces. 

1 heaping pint of dry cooked rice. 

1 lai'ge cupful of milk or water. 

() ounces of flour — 3 level cupfuls. 

2 eggs (or 5 yolks for best quality). 
2 tablespoonfuls of syrup. 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. Salt. 

The amount of rice to be cooked specially fur 
this is one teacupf ul, boiled in a pint of water, 
with the steam shut in. If ready cooked cold 
rice, warm the milk and mash the rice with it 
free from lumps, adding flour at the same time. 
Then mix in the other ingredients ; the eggs 
well beaten first Bake on a griddle, Butter- 
milk and soda can be used instead of the powder 
and sweet milk. 



16— Best Uoiighnuts, Yoast-Raised. 

3 pounds of light bread dough. 

i ounces of sugar or syrup — }>{ cupfuL 
legg. 

4 tablespoonfuls of melted lard. 
Lard or other fat to fry in. 

Put the lump of dough in a pan and the other in- 
gredients with it, and set them iu a warm place. 
When aU warmed and the dough light, work them 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



11 



all together. Let staud half an hour longer, 
then it can be beaten sraooth and a handful 
of flour added to make it soft dough. Let it 
Btand to rise four hours if in the day time, but if 
the dough is made at night with a piece of the 
roll dough left over from the supper breads it 
should be left all night to rise and be fried next 
morning. 

Knead by pressing out and folding over a few- 
times, roll out to a thin sheet, brush all over 
with the least possible melted lard and then cut 
out ring shapes. Place these on pans to rise 
half an hour, then drop them in hot lard to fry. 
They cook quicker than the kind made with pow- 
der or with buttermilk and are much larger for 
their weight. Should not be allowed to get too 
light in the pans, as that is one reason why 
doughnuts soak up fat instead of coming out 
di'y and wholesome. It is necessary to be strict 
about the weight of sugar, not to get too much, 
for that makes them fry too dark and be doughy 
eating and greasy. 



17— Ginger 

12 ounces of white sugar. 
8 ounces of butter. 
3 eggs. 

1 small cupful of milk. 

2 ounces of ground ginger. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

1)4 pounds of flour, or enough to roll out. 

Warm the butter and sugar and stir to a 
cream. Add the eggs, then the milk slightly 
warmed, then the ginger and powder and the 
most of the flour. Work the dough on the table 
by pressing it together with the flat hands. To 
be perfect the cakes mustbe cut out of the dough 
as soft as it can be handled. When the sheet of 
dough is rolled out sift granulated sugar all over 
and run the rolling-pin over it. Cut out and 
bake carefully. 



We shall present recipes for making many 
richer articles, but the two just preceding are 
the very best possible for their kind and degree. 
But we all know that there is a knack to be ac- 
quired in working any kind of dough that makes 
one person's cookies or doughnuts very much 
better than another's made by the same recipe. 
The light dough miist be really light and lively, 
not sour, not too much fermented, and the frying 
fat sweet, not tasting of onions, etc. The ginger 
cookies will run out of shape with too much 
baking powder, or be as hard as pieces of 
crockery with too much- flour and sugar. 



18~About Soup Stock Management. 

A really good cook does not know how to get 
along without a stock boiler or something that 
serves for one, it is such a help toward good 
cooking, and makes the work easier. There 



may be times wh«n bouillon or some other clear 
soup is to be served in cups at luncheon that 
special kinds of meat will be chosen to make it 
with. Ordinarily, we have come to believe any 
directions that may be given to use 
a rabbit, a chicken, a piece of veal and a 
sample of all the rest of the butcher's 
stock do no good whatever and the domestic 
cook goes on serenely making a very passable 
soup with a broken marrowbone and a handful 
of rough cut or chopped vegetables, and thinks 
it no detriment if a little of the marrow fat still 
floats on the top. That is all right, only instead 
of one kind of soup always, we are going to 
make a good many. Where the best manage- 
ment prevails and the work goes on like ma- 
chinery, one wheel within another, there is a 
regular time of day to set the stock boiler on, it 
may be in the evening to simmer till the last, and 
then the liquor strained off is set away till the 
next day. or it may be early in the morning. The 
boiler should be larger than the ordinary stove 
pots. Put into it a gallon of clear, cold water. 

The meats to be cooked during the day are 
trimmed of all the tough and gristly ends, such 
as are sure to be thrown away if fried, broiled or 
roasted, and all the bones are taken from the 
meat that can be without detriment to the joint, 
and these scraps, after washing in clear water, 
are put into the boiler. Then, if there is a soup 
bone beside, or a chicken to be boiled, or a leg of 
mutton it will be so much the richer stock. 
Some days there will be reason to choose which 
kind of soup to make, according to the contents 
of the stock boiler, which is a more economical 
way to look at it than if the boiler was to be fur- 
nished to suit the soup. A cream soup, for ex- 
ample, may be made when the stock is thin, and 
when it is rich as jelly make beef gravy soup or 
mock turtle. 

The available meat being in next, throw in a 
little vegetable seasoning, such as a small onion 
and piece of turnip and carrot. But these are 
not indispensable for the soup will be seasoned 
afterwards. 

Let the boiler heat slowly and when at last it 
boils, skim carefully two or three times, put the 
lid on and let simmer 4 or 5 hours, when there 
will probably be 2 quarts of rich stock ready 
when strained, to he used in soup or to make 
gravies and sauces. 

The strainer fine enough for ordinary use is 
made of perforated tin, or a pan with a perfor- 
ated tin bottom. Strike the edge of the pan 
rapidly to make the soup go through. 



MENU NO. IV.— DINNER. 



19— Celery Cream Soup. 

3 p-ints of soup stock. 

1 pint of rich milk. 

Outside stalks of celery, about 4. 



12 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



1 small onion, minced. 

Small piece of lean cooked ham. 

1 tablespoonf ul of flour. 

Butter size of an egg. 

Salt and white pepper. 

Boil the soup stock with the onion and scrap of 
ham in it for flavor. Cut up the celery — about 
enough to fill a large cup — in dice shapes, and 
boil it ten minutes in water; then strain the 
water away. Mix the butter and flour together, 
and stir them into the boiling stock to thicken it 
slightly, then strain it into another saucepan and 
put in the parboiled celery and the pint of milk. 
Season with pepper and salt to taste. Let it 
simmer ten minutes or more after the celery 
is in. 

Mince a piece of green leaf of celery very fine, 
and sprinkle it from a knife point into the soup. 
This makes six or seven plates. 



Butter and flour for thickening is the orthodox 
article (roux), but should the butter fail to arrive 
punctually at the time the flour can be mixed 
with a little water instead. The stock used 
should have been skimmed free from fat, if not 
the soup must be. 

30— Boiled Salmon Steak. 

Boil a pint of broth or water with a small piece 
of celery in it and half a handful of parsley, 
pepper and salt to season, and a gill of white 
wine Cut the salmon steaks in suitable pieces, 
and put the fragments and bone in the boiling 
liquor Place the salmon pieces in a shallow, 
bright saucepan, strain the seasoned broth over 
them and cook by brisk boiling, with a lid or 
plate on top, eight or ten minutes. Serve in a 
deep dish or tureen, with the remaining liquor 
instead of a sauce. To be eaten with bread and 
butter. 

The merit of this dish is in the full preserva- 
tion of the flavor and richness of the fish. 

A tablespoonful of vinegar may be used 
instead of the wme. 



21— Hollandaise Potatoes. 

Generally served with fish on the same small 
plate. The name is derived from the sauce hol- 
landaise. 

The potatoes should be cut all mto one neat 
shape before cooking. There are potato spoons 
or scoops sold that cut out marbles or boulettes, 
and the remainder of the potato does to steam 
and mash. Another way is to cut cores out of 
the potatoes with an apple corer, or even with a 
tin funnel, and cut these across in pieces Uke 
lozenges. PerhajDS a large cupful of these will 
be enough. The remaining alternative is to cut 
the potatoes in large dice. 

Set the potatoes on the range in cold water 
with a little salt in. Boil very gently about 
twenty minutes, taking care lest they break and 



boil away, then pour off the hot water and let 
them cool and dry a little, and when to be served 
pour over them a cupful of hoUandaise sauce. 
Sprinkle a little pinch of chopped parsley over 
the top. 

23— HoUandaise Sauce, English Way. 

For fish, cauliflower, asparagus and any vege- 
tables. It is golden yellow, shining and smooth, 
just thick enough to be taken up on the point of 
a knife, if for fish, but needs to be thinner for 
vegetable dressing. 

}4 cupful of broth, milk or water. 

4 ounces of butter — a teacupful. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

1 lemon — juice only. 

Peppercorns, nutmeg, salt. 

Boil the broth with the peppercorns— about a 
dozen— in it and a scrap of broken nutmeg and 
level teaapoonful of salt. When flavored strain 
the broth into another saucepan or a tin cup. 
Put in two-thirds of the butter and the 4 yolks 
and beat it with a fork over the fire until it 
thickens like cream. Then take it off and beat 
in the rest of the butter in Utile bits, still beating 
until all is melted. Then squeeze in the lemon 
juice, or use vinegar for a substitute. 



The sauce must never fairly boil, only just 
begin to. There is a moment, about a minute 
after the cup is set on the fire, that the sauce is 
at its thickest degree, like softened butter. After 
that a separation or curdling takes place, not 
very plain to the eye, but that makes the sauce 
thin and spoils it. 

33— Koast Chicken— Oyster Oressins:- 

In order to know how long to cook a fowl it is 
necessary to know something about the age of 
it. We hold that skill in cooliery should be skill 
to equalize provisions, and while the cook should 
know what things are best and when there 
should be but little preference for one over an- 
other from the cook's point of view, it is, given 
the kind of provisions, what is the best method 
to apply to make the best of itV 

The best fowls f cr roasting are nearly a year 
old, nearly full grown and fat. When the age 
cannot be told from the appearance after dress- 
ing, try if the thumb can be pushed through the 
skin that stretches between the wing joint and 
pinion. The ease with which this can be broken 
is according to the tenderness of the fowl. 

Singe it and pick over, draw and wash the 
fowl, cut the neck off short and tie the skin over 
it, and truss the fowl with the wings Dent over 
backwards and legs held either by means of a 
skewer thrust through them and the body or with 
twine. Previously to which, however, the inside 
should be filled with stufiing. 

It is a mistake to press in the stuffing too solid. 
One object of the stuffing is the absorption into 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



13 



it of the gravy of the fowl. Epicures have 
adopted various expedienta to save and secure 
these juices, such as placing slices of toast to 
catch the dri'ppings of birds roasting on the spit, 
and baking puddings under meat to catch the 
gravy. Beside that the stuffiing, if not too solid 
to get hot and give out steam, imparts the flavor 
of its seasonings to the meat. 



24— Oyster Stutfing for Chickens, Etc. 

2 doz small oysters and their liquor. 

1 cupful of white bread crumbs. 

1 cupful of oyster crackers rolled small. 

4 ounces of best butter — level teacupful. 

1 egg. Salt and pepper mixed, 1 teaspoonful. 

Melt the butter and pour it over the bread and 
cracker crumbs in a pan, and then stram the 
oyster liquor in, add the egg, pepper and salt. 
Stir up a little to mix but not make it pasty, and 
then mix in the oysters whole. 



The above is sufficient for one large fowl or 
two small ones, or a small turkey or a goose. 



The admixture of bread and cracker crumbs 
is not a matter of fancy, but affords a richer 
flavor than bread alone. 



The fowl having been prepared, place it in a 
small pan with some salt strewn over the bottom, 
and put in the gizzard and heart or any otiier pieces 
of meat too small to cook alone and a cupful of 
drippings. Put in a cupful of hot water, lay a 
greased paper on top of the fowl, set it in the oven 
and cook about an hour. Then take off the paper 
and baste the fowl with a little softened butter, 
which will froth up on the surface and cause it 
to brown nicely. After the fowl has been taken 
out pour off all the grease, put water in the pan, 
boil and thicken, and strain it for gravy. 

35— Asparagrus on Toast. 

Cut off an inch length of the bottom of the 
bunch of asparagus to make the stalks even and 
let it remain in a pan of cold water till near din- 
ner time. To have this vegetable beautifully 
green it is necessary besides to put into the water 
it IS boiled in a pinch of soda or of carbonate of 
ammonia, say about the weight of a pea ; it does 
harm to have too much. Take the asparagus 
from the cold straight into the boiling water and 
let it cook from fifteen to thirty minutes, accord- 
ing to its thickness and the rate of bailing, and 
then draining the water, take the twine from the 
bunch and serve. There should be salt in the 
water it is boiled in. 

Make a piece of thin toast for each individual 
dish. Place the white end of the asparagus on 
the toast and pour a tableapoonful of melted 
fresh butter on the green ends on the dish. 



36— Sweetbreads Sautes—Milanaise, 

3 calves' sweetbreads. 

8 ounces of butter. 

1 lemon. 

J^ can of French green peas. 

Flour and seasoning. 

First boil the sweetbreads, after washing them 
in water for an hour, if small, but twice as long 
if large, and then let them get quite cold, pressed 
between two dishes. When boiling them it is 
best to season the water with salt and a dash of 



split them into two flat halves. Pepper and salt 
them, roll well in flour, and a little before dinner 
time melt the half-pound of butter in a large 
frying-pan and fry the sweetbreads in it brown 
on both sides. The butter froths in the pan and 
over the sweetbreads, and they should, if it can 
be so managed, be sent to the table before it ail 
subsides. Warm the French peas in a saucepan, 
place the sweetbreads on a dish and the peas 
around them and ornament with the lemou cut in 
quarters. 

Sweetbreads are the white, fat looking pieces, 
glands, probably, found near the heart of the an- 
imal and smaller ones are found at the root of 
the tongue. While calves' sweetbreads are al- 
ways to be chosen if choice is given, those of full 
grown animals are used as well. 



37— Macaroni and Cheese— Becliamel. 

5 ounces of macaroni, 

2 ounces of cheese. 

3 ounces of butter. 

IJ^ pints of milk, or water. 

2 eggs. Salt. 

Parsley, and flour thickening. 

Boil the macaroni by itself first, throwing it 
into water that is already boiling and salted. Let 
it cook only 20 minutes. Then drain it dry 
and put it into a pan or baking dish holding about 
three pints. 

Chop the cheese, not very fine, and mix it with 
the macaroni, likewise the butter. Beat the two 
eggs and the pint of water or milk together, 
pour them on the macaroni and set in the oven to 
bake. While it is getting hot boil a cup of milk 
(the remaining half pint of the recipe), and 
thicken it with a rounded tablespoonf ul of flour 
mixed up with part of it in a cup, add salt and a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and when the 
macaroni in the oven is set so that the two can- 
not mix, pour this white cream sauce on top of 
it, shut up the oven, and let it bake a yellow 
brown. This makes a very attractive dish, as 
the yellow cheese and custard boils up in spots 
among the white sauce and parsley. 



14 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



38— Roman Punch. 

1 pint of water. 

10 ounces of sugar. 

1 lemon, juice and rind. 

1 orange, juice only. 

2 whites of eggs. 

Few spoonfuls of rum or chablis. 

Dissolve the sugar in the water, hot ; grate the 
rind of the lemon — the yellow part only — into a 
bowl, and squeeze in the juice and that of the or- 
ange and pour the hot syrup to them. Let stand 
awhile, then strain into a freezer. Freeze, and 
when nearly finished whip the two whites and 
stir them in and beat up well. Add the rum, or 
the mixture of rum and wine, or the wine substi- 
tute for rum, at last. Serve in glasses. 



39~Mallar(l Duck — Apple Sauce. 

The mallard is one of the best ducks to roast, 
being nearly always tender and easy to cook. 
Epicures say that wild ducks should never be 
washed, only wiped dry inside and out. That 
must be as people may please. The mallard, 
though well flavored, is not so deUcate that wash- 
ing in cold water could injure it seriously. 
Besides, we are going to add to it a little flavor 
of the dressing. 

30 — Bread Stuffing: for Oucks and Geese. 

1 quart of finely minced bread crumbs. 

1 tablespoonful of minced onion. 

1 level teaspoonful each or salt, pepper and 



J^ cupful of warm watei-. 

}^ cupful of the fat from fried sausage, or of 
lard. 

Mis the ingredients all together in a pan, not 
trying to make the dressing too moist, as it will 
absorb gravy while baking. The egg should be 
mixed with the water first. 



Singe the duck, pick it over, draw, and wash it 
in cold water, dry it out, and then stuff it Chop 
off the wings, except the main joints, which tie 
close to the sides with twine ; also tie down the 
legs, and bake the duck in a hot oven from thirty 
to forty minutes. Baste frequently with fat 
from the pan. It spoils these ducks to put them 
in an oven that ia nearly cold. All the gravy 
oozes out. Let them be made hot quickly at 
first, and slack down afterward. 



31— Apple Sauce for Meats. 

Pare good, npe apples and slice them into a 
bright saucepan. Add water enough to come up 
level with the apples and stew with a lid on till 
done — about thirty minutes. While they are 
stewing throw in a little butter. Masii at last 
with the back of a spoon. No sugar. 



33-Celery Salad. 

Chop equal parts of outside stalks of celery — 
about four — and tender white cabbage together 
in a chopping bowl, and throw in a green leaf of 
celery that has been dipped in boiling water to 
give it all a green color. Mix with the minced 
celery in a dish a spoonful of vinegar, a little 
salt, a pinch of sugar, and two or three spoon- 
fuls of the HoUandaise sauce (No. 23). It makes 
a rich buttery salad that can be piled on a dish 
or in individual plates. 



33— Queen Frittel-s- Beigrnets Souffles. 

3^ pint of water — a coffee cupful. 

2 ounces of butter, large — size of a duck's egg. 

4 ounces of flour — large cupf uL 

.5 eggs. 

Set the water on to boil in a little saucepan and 
the butter (or lard will do) in it. Stir in the flour 
all at once and work the paste thus made with a 
spoon till smooth and well cooked. Take it from 
the fire and work in the eggs one at a time, beat- 
ing in one well before adding another, and when 
all are in beat the mixture thoroughly against 
the side of the saucepan. Make some lard 
hot, It will take half a saueepanful. Drop 
pieces of the batter about as large as eggs and 
watch them swell and expand in the hot lard and 
become hollow and light. Only four or five at a 
time can be fried because they need lots of room. 



34— Transparent Sauce for Fritters. 

1 cupful of water. 

4 ounces of sugar — J^ cup. 

1 rounded tablespoonful of corn starch. 

14 a lemon. Bit of butter. 

Boil the water. Mix the starch with the sugar 
dry and stir them in. Slice the lemon and throw 
it in, and a speck of butter. Let boil transparent. 
Pour a large spoonful over each fritter as they 
are dished up. 



35— White Cocoanut Fie. 

1 cupful of milk. 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

1 rounded tablespoonful of starch. 

2 or 3 ounces of grated cocoanut 

3 or 4 whites of eggs. 
Small piece of butter. 
Pinch of salt 

Boil the milk alone. Mix the starch and sugar 
together dry and stir them in ; then the butter and 
cocoanut Set it away to get cold. Whip the 
whites (that were left from making HoUandaise) 
to a firm froth and mix them with the p le- 
mixture. Bake in thin crusts of puff paste. 
Makes two small pies. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



15 



36— Jelly Cake. 

8 ounces of granulated sugar. 
5 eggs. 

4 ounces of butter, melted. 
^ cup of milk. 

13 ounces of flour. 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together a minute or 
two, add the melted butter, the milk, the powder 
and the flour. Bake on jelly-cake pans as thin 
as it can be spread. Have three sheets and 
spread jelly between and powdered sugar on 
top. 

37— Pear Salad— Dessert Dish. 

5 large mellow pears. 

4 tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar. 

1 lemon — juice only. 

4 tabiespoonfuls of kirschenwasser. 

Pare ana core the pears and slice them into a 
glass bowl, squeeze the lemon juice over the 
slices and cover with the powdered sugar. Keep 
cold, and when to be served add the wineglassful 
of kirschenwasser and shake to mix. Serve in 
glass ice dishes. 



38— Coffee Ice Cream. 

IJ^ pints of cream. 

J^ pint of coffee. 

13 ounces of sugar. 

Make a cold infusion of coffee by steeping a 
cupful of coarsely ground Java or Mocha in one 
and a half cups of cold water and letting it re- 
main over night in a bottle. Strain off the I'e- 
quired amount through a napkin previously 
rinsed in hot water, and mix it with sweetened 
cream. This is the better way, but a fair article 
can be made with clear coffee from the breakfast 
urn. Freeze, and when frozen beat the cream 
hght with a long wooden spoon. 



To freeze a quart of cream need be no more 
than a trifling incident to any dinner, there being 
a suitable tub to break ice in always ready and a 
pail of coarse salt. Almost any deep tin vessel will 
do to freeze so small a quantity in, especially 
in winter, independently of the cog-wheeled and 
porcelain-lined arrangements for making ice- 
cream in large amounts, that present such a bar- 
rier of expense to the private ice-cream maker. 
Pound the ice very fine and mix some snow with 
it. If you have no freezer put the prepared 
cream in a 3-quart tin pail, set it in the tub or 
pail of pounded ice and snow, mix about a sixth 
as much salt in and add cold water tiU the ice- 
cream pail will go down into the freezing mix- 
ture. By turning the pail about with one hand 
and stirring the cream with a long wooden spoon 
in the other a quart of cream may be frozen in a 
fev^ minutes. Three kinds and colors for a brick 



may be frozen with equal ease at the same time, 
the quantity of each being small. 



"And what is the use of that?" say some quiz- 
zical people who are altogether too practical in 
their ideas ; "does a lamb chop taste any better 
for being trimmed up so, or are the potal^es any- 
thing but potatoes because they are in fancy 
shapes?" 

We have nothing to say to such people except 
that there is such a thing as art in cooking as 
there is art in dress, and it consists likewise 
partly in cutting and trimming and setting off 
and fixing up. 



MENU NO. V— TEA 



39— A Dish of I.ainb Cutlets and Toast. 

Ontly the "rack" or ribs can be used this way 
with good effect — a reason why the dish of cote- 
lettes d'agneau is accounted choice above its 
merits. The' necessary selection makes it dear. 
Take the rack and cut the chops at home ; few 
butchers will trim them right. First cut and 
chop off all the backbone at once. Saw or chop 
off the ends of the ribs so that all the cutlets will 
be of one length — but little longer than the mid- 
dle finger. Then cut through, havmg two rib 
bones in each chop ; carefully cut out one bone, 
leaving the double allowance of meat to the 
other, and trim and scrape the end of that clean 
for about an iuoh. Then flatten the cutlets with 
the side of the cleaver, and finally trim off the 
ragged edges to neat and compact proportions. 

And now, once for all, we have the lamb cut- 
lets trimmed the way people like them and ready 
for cooking. The different accompaniments and 
sauces for them make the great number of 
"styles" in which they are served. 



40— Plain Broilingr. 

The obstacles in the way of broiling meat are 
not really very great in any place where a stove is 
used. It might be useless to recommend any 
particular api^liances, for the best contrivance of 
to-day may soon be superseded by a better in- 
vention. Our concern is to get a broiling fire, 
and the first requisite for that is to have a sack 
of small charcoal in the coal house. About half 
an hour before the meal take the ashes out of 
the ashpan and lay in a bed of charcoal. Place 
a few live coals on it, and cover with something 
— say an inverted pan — to cause a draft to the 
fire. 

Neat and easy broiling requires it, and this is 
the way that is practiced in the places where it is 
made a constant business. Have always ready a 
little flat tin-bound brush, like a varnish brush, 
but a very cheap kind, in a tin cup with'either 
nice drippmgs or melted butter in it. Lay the 
meat to be broiled on a plate and slightly brush 



16 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



over both sides. Place them on a wire broiler or 
the gridiron and cook qtiickly without smoking or 
burning them. A little coarse salt sprinkled on 
the charcoal will put out flames and make the 
fire clear. Never stick a fork into broiling meat, 
at least not in the lean part that is full of gravy. 
A lamb chop or cutlet will cook in about the 
same time that an egg will boil soft. 



I'or tea one such double chop is usually enough 
for each person, though it takes five to make a 
restaurant meal. Cut as many pear-shaped thin 
shoes of bread as there are cutlets, toast and 
butter them and set them upon end alternately 
with the cutlets, one toast and one cutlet, on a 
large dish, and serve without sauce, except ta- 
ble sauces, and pickles. 



41— Minced Potatoes, 

Chop cold boiled potatoes small, and season 
with salt. Spread a spoonful of drippings or 
butter in a frying pan, and place the minced po- 
tatoes about an inch deep. Cook on top of the 
range like a cake, without stirring. Invert a 
bowl or plate over the potatoes, let them brown 
nicely and slowly, then turn over on to the plate, 
set in another plate and serve with the brown 
side up. 

4a— Shrimp Salad. 

Shred one large head of lettuce as fine as pos- 
sible with a sharp knife on a board. Pick two 
dozen large shrimps or rinse a can of shrimps in 
cold water ; put them in a bowl with two table- 
spoonfuls of olive oil and the same of vinegar, 
and shake about to make them look shining and 
moist Cover a flat dish with the shred lettuce. 
Pile the shrimps neatly in the middle, and 
spread over the top, or at least across it so as 
not to bide the shrimns, some mayonaise dress- 
ing. Shrimps that are so shaken up with oil will 
generally keep the shape if pressed a little in a 
deep dish, and can be turned out in form. 



43— German Mayonaise. 

We are not responsible for the name. That is 
the name the cooks know it by in distinction 
from French mayonaise. This has cold white 
sauce for a base instead of yolk of eggs. It is 
handiest to make when there is "drawn butter" 
or butter sauce, or cream sauce left over from a 
dinner dish. If from the beginning take : 

44— Butter Sauce. 

1 rounded tablespoonful of flour. 
About the same of butter. 
3^ cupful of boiling water or broth. 
Salt. 

Warm the butter in a small, deep saucepan and 
mix the dry flour with it while on the fire. When 



hot and bubbling add the broth a little at time 
and a little salt and let boil up thick. It not per- 
fectly smooth it must be strained. Let the sauce 
get cold. 

Now we have a thick, white sauce, whether left 
over or made for the purpose. The salad dress- 
ing is made this way: 

Drop half a raw egg into the cold sauce and 
stir around rapidly with a wooden spoon. Add a 
tablespoonful of salad oil and stir again, then a 
spoonful of vinegar, then the rest of the egg and 
more oil and vinegar and a teaspoonful of made 
mustard and a pinch of cayenne. It is light yel- 
low, just thin enough to spread over the salad 
material and not thin enough to run. Por a 
larger quantity more eggs, oil and vinegar can 
be stirred into the same beginning indefinitely 

46 — French Kusks. 

1 pound of light bread dough. 
3 ounces of sugar. 

S ounces of butter. 
Lemon or vanilla flavoring. 

2 yolks of eggs. 
Small half cup of milk. 
Plour to make it soft dough. 

These rusks are more of a simple but showy 
kind of warm cake than they are breaa. 
Should only be attempted with the strongest 
yeast or the lightest dough, because to be really 
fine and not sticky they must be more than light 
— spongy, dry, and almost in strings of layers, 
like French loaves. In short, to make rusks 
good is a mark of skill in bread-making. They 
can be made much richer than this recipe — by 
skillful cooks. 

If for afternoon tea take the dough at break- 
fast time and warm it and the butter, sugar and 
milk (or cream) together by setting in a pan in a 
warm corner. Then mix them together thor- 
oughly and add the yolks and beat up thor- 
oughly, and then the necessary flour to make 
dough of it. Knead on the table by pressing out 
and folding over. (See directions for French 
rolls. No. 5. ) Set the dough in a warm place for 
3 hours to rise. Then knead it the second time. 
Every time the dough is doubled over on itself 
the edges should be pressed together first. When 
good and finished it looks silky, and air will snap 
from the edges when pinched. After this second 
kneading the dough should stand an nour and 
then be made into shapes, buns, oblongs, twists, 
or split rolls notched at the edges with a knife. 
Rise in the pans an hour and a half longer, then 
bake in a slow oven about 20 minutes. When 
done brush over while hot with thick syrup of 
sugar and water flavored with vanilla. 



The directions for so many workings of the 
dough may seem to make this a oomphcated 
process. In fact, however, each kneading takes 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



17 



no longer to perform than it does to write about 
it. Tlie reason for it is that the oftener dough is 
kueaded, m moderation, tlie more elastic and 
better it becomes. The more sugar there is in 
it, the slower the dough will be to rise, hence the 
richer sorts are the harder to make good. 



46— Cranberry Sauce. 

Throw a quart of cranberries into a pan of 
cold water and wash and pick them over. Put 
them in a bright saucepan. Spread eight ounces 
of sugar over them, pour in half a cupful of 
water and simmer at the side of the range with 
the lid on for about half an hour. Cranberries 
have the best color when cooked with the sugar 
in them, though the chemists find some objec- 
tion through an alleged change in the sugar and 
loss of sweetness. There is nothing that burns 
on the bottom quicker than cranberries. They 
should not be set in a very hot place, and should 
never be stirred till taken from the Are. The 
syrup that can be poured from the cranberries 
before they are stirred up forms the brightest 
jelly when cold. 

Allowing that almost anybody can make a 
plain soup, it is no less true that to make a clear 
consomme or broth requires skill. The plain 
bouillon or beef broth served on certain occasions 
in china cups will serve as an example of the 
way the clear consommes are made, this being 
specially of beef, while other kinds may be of 
veal, chicken, etc. , and have various additions, 
both farinaceous and vegetable. 



MENU NO. VI.— RECEPTION. 



23^ quarts of soup stock, or broth. 

2 or pounds of lean beef. 

S whites of eggs and clean shells. 

1 teaspoontul of black pepper. 

2 teaspoonf uls of salt. 

Chop the beef, after cutting in small pieces, in 
a chopping bowl till it is like sausage meat Add 
the salt and pepper, put it in a saucepan, pour in 
the broth, stir up and set it on to boil, but in a 
place where it will heat up slowly, and as it boils 
skim off the scum that will rise on top. It is like 
beef tea, and may be liept simmei'ing an hour or 
two if the time allows. Then &train it through a 
colander first to get out the meat, and through 
a napkin which may cover the clean saucepan 
under the colander to clear the bouillon of 
gravy. 

Set the bouillon away to get cold, in a pan of 
ice water, if necessary tohurry it, because when 
cold every crumb of grease can be taken off in 



an instant much better than by skimming while 
hot 

The remaining operation is to make it abso- 
lutely clear and bright 

Beat the whites of eggs and break up the 
shells into the cold bouillon and boil it again, 
stirring sometimes to make sure that the white of 
egg is well cooked and coagulated, and when it 
has boiled about thirty minutes strain it through 
a jelly bag or a napkin, two or three times. 
Keep hot till served. 



Cooks who become expert through constant 
practice shorten the above thorough method by 
mixing the white of eggs with the raw beef and 
filtering the bouillon once for all straight from 
the beef into a bowl. This makes the beef use- 
less for further soup stock purposes, however. 
In either case the bouillon should be allowed to 
become cold in order to free it from grease. 



Perhaps the neat and symmetrical array of a 
dish of lamb cutlets trimmed up as we had them 
last week first set somebody wishing that chick- 
ens could be cut up the same way and led to imi- 
tations. 

The croquette of minced chicken made in 
cutlet shape with a bone pushed into the mince, 
is only a sham, but real cutlets of partridge, 
grouse and chicken are made in this way. 



48- Chicken Cutlets. 

Take a chicken and cut off the two legs with 
all the meat that can be got by cutting close to 
the carcass, and also cut off the wings with all 
the breast meat attached. What we have t@ do 
is to get four pieces off each chicken that shall 
have a bone in each one to be scraped up like a 
outlet bone, and plenty of meat at the end of it, 
the same as a lamb chop. The leg cutlets con- 
sist of drumstick and second joint; the others 
have the fillet or breast and the wing bone. 
Chop off the knobby ends. The bone of the 
second joint should be loosened from the meat, 
all the meat pushed to one side of it, and the 
bone pushed through a hole made in the edge of 
the meat — all to make it look like a lamb chop — 
and the ends of all the bones should be scraped 
clean for about an inch. When all are prepared 
parboil by dropping the cutlets in boiling water 
or broth well seasoned. They lose their shape 
if not so managed. When they have boiled five 
minutes lay them flat on dishes or pans, put other 
dishes on top and a heavy weight and let them 
get quite cold. After that trim and shape them 
neatly. Dip each cutlet in a little beaten egg 
and water ; then in cracker meal, and fry in hot 
lard in a frying-pan, or in a smaller quantity of 
butter, much the same as the sweetbreads at 
No. 26. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



49— Fried Parsley. 

One of the moat desirable adjuncts to dishes 
like fried cutlets when they are not served with a 
sauce. 

Heat some lard in the potato frier, but not hot 
enough to smoke, for too much heat takes all the 
color out of parsley. Put the parsley in the wire 
basket and immerse it in the hot lard about one 
minute, when it should be crisp, but still green. 
Drain it on a sheet of paper and set for a minute 
in the open oven. 



50— Potato Croquettes en Petites Boiiles. 

The reason why the ordinary mashed potatoes 
will not do for croquettes is, the milk or water 
that is mixed with them when mashing, when 
hot makes thetcroquette melt away in the frying 
fat. Take 

1 pound of pared potatoes. 

1 ounce of outter. 

1 yolk of egg. 

Salt and pejjper. 

Flour to ball up with. 

Use dry and mealy potatoes. Steam or boil 
well done, drain, mash and mix in the butter and 
yolk, and season to taste. No milk or other 
liquid to be added. Make up, with plenty of 
flour on the hands, into little balls not larger 
than walnuts. Make as much flour stick to the 
croquettes as possible. Put them into the wire 
basket or potato frier and fry them in hot lard. 



There is probably no way of making that will 
prevent potato croquettes from breaking open in 
the grease if cooked long. Fry them quickly, 
and take out when they are of a deep yellow 
color. Drain on a sieve. 



The chicken cutlets, the parsley and the potato 
croquettes having been prepared pile the cro- 
quettes in the middle of a large platter, place the 
cutlets in order around and decorate with the 
fried parsley. 



51— Lobster Salad. 

Take the meat of one large lobster and cut it 
as near as may be in large dice shapes, or at least 
to uniform size, and keep the reddest pieces in a 
dish separate. Chop two heads of celery. Par- 
boil two or three green leaves of celery to make 
them a deeper green and chop them with the 
celery likewise to color the whole. 

Spread a layer of the celery on a flat dish or 
platter, then the lobster ou that with the red 
pieces around the edge, where they will show 
among the green, another layer of chopped 
celery on top, level over the top surface and pour 
and spread upon it some mayonaise dressing that 
is almost thin enough to run. The dressing 



should be sufiSciently seasoned to season all the 
rest 



No single book could contain all the names and 
variations that are made by different persons 
combining a few well known compounds in 
different forms. In our hotel cook book the 
attempt has been m'ade to familiarize the 
reader with the principal compounds, 
pastes, creams, etc., used, in order that he 
may at once understand the composition of 
any new article he may meet with, that seeming 
to be a much more thorough plan of teaching 
than a gathering of all the possible names into a 
bulky but uninteresting mass of repetitions. A 
similar course is being followed in this series, as 
may be shown in the instance following : The 
puff paste now to be made is the same that is 
used for a great number of forms of pies and 
fancy pastries ; the pastry cream is the same that 
is used to fill cream puffs, to make lemon cream 
pies, to serve as sauce to fritters and to spread 
between layers of other Itinds of cakes, and the 
glazing is but candy poured very thin, and often 
is substituted by other kinds of frosting, each 
change serving to give the article a new name at 
the fine bakery or in the French menu. 



53 — Napoleon Cake. 

Two sheets of puff paste baked in shallow 
baking pans. Pastry cream spread between and 
sugar glaze over the top. Cut in squares and 
serve on plates. 

53-Putr Paste. 

1 pound of cold flour, , 

15 ounces of cold butter. 
1 cupful of ice-water. 

Get quite ready to mak-e the paste before you 
begin, that it may be done quickly. It will not, 
perhaps, be light and good if allowed to stand 
long in a warm room. Leave out a handful 
of flour to dust with. Make a hollow 
in the middle of the rest in a pan, pour in 
the ice water and mix up gradually with the 
fingers. Turn the paste on the table, double 
and press a little to make it smooth. Roll it out 
to half an inch thickness, pound the butter with 
a potato masher to make it pliable, drop half of 
it in lumps all over the sheet of paste, sift a very 
little flour over, press down the lumps of butter, 
fold over in three and turn the broad side to- 
ward you. Roil out again, drop the rest of tne 
butter as before, fold in three and count that 
one. EoU out evenly with plenty of flour to 
prevent sticking, fold over in three and count 
that two. Do the same four times more, making 
six folds (beside the first one not counted) and 
it is ready for use; but let it stand a while. 

Roll out thin sheets, take them up by winding 
on the rolling-pm and spread on two baking 
pans. Bake in a hot oven eight or ten minutes. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



10 



54— rastry Cream. 

1 quart of millc. 
8 ounces of sugar. - 
4 ouncea of flour. 
1 ounce of butter. 

LemoD extract to flayor. 

Boil the milk witii a little of the sugar iu it to 
prevent burning. Mix tne rest of the sugar and 
the Hour together dry, dredge them into the boil- 
ing milk, beating all the while, and let cook five 
minutes Throw in the butter and beat the eggs 
a little and stir in. Put the lid on and let cook 
at the back of the range about ten minutes 
longer. Flavor when nearly cold. 



55— Plain Sazar Glaze. 

The simplest is a cupful of granulated sugar 
and a quarter-cupful of water boiled in a tin cup 
together to very strong syrup, almost candy. 
Stir it around about twelve times to partly 
whiten it, and pour it on top of the cake. It will 
set when cold, if boiled enough. Sugar dissolved 
in red fruit juice boiling on the fire makes glaze 
of the same kin4 colored. 



Spread the pastry cream over one of the baked 
sheets of puff paste, place the other on top, and 
pour and spread the sugar glaze upon it. Cut 
when cold. 



50— Macaroon Cake. 

Commonly called macaroni cake. A sheet of 
cake with macaroon paste baked on top and fruit 
jelly in spots. Fur the cake take 

1 pound of sugar. 

8 ounces of butter. 

6 eggs. 

1 small cupful of milk. 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Flour to roll out — about 3 pounds. 

Warm the butter and sugar and stir them to- 
KOther to a cream, add the eggs two at a time, 
then the milk, then the powder and most of the 
flour. Work the dough on the table by pressing 
out and folding it until it can be rolled out to a 
sheet. EoU it thin, as if for cookies, out to the 
size of your baking pans, roll up the piece of 
dough on the rolling-pin and unroll it on the pan, 
previously well greased. Bake very light col 
ored and not quite done, because it has to be 
cooked again. 



57— Macaroon Paste. 

12 ounces of grated cocoanuti 

8 ounces of powdered sugar. 

2 whites of eggs. 

Little lemon extract. 

Stir the above ingredients together in a bowl, 
the sugar and whites first and the cocoauut 
added 

Place the paste, either with a teasooon or with 
ft tube and forcing sack, m \oa^ ccrrjt) »pn>s3 tlin 



sheets of cake, and then diagonally across to 
form diamond-shaped hollows. The cord of 
macaro jn paste need be no thicker than a pencil. 
Then bake in a sla.'k oven with the door open 
till top is brown. Wiieii cold drop spots of clear 
fruit jelly in the hullowa between tbe ridges of 
macaroon naste. 



58- .S.ida Water Jellius. 

1 quart of water and a cupful over. 

1}4 ounces of gelatine. 

8 ounces of sugar. 

1 large or 3 small lemons. 

1 teaspoonful of whole mixed spices. 

3 whites of egKS and clean shells. 

Cooper's sheet gelatine is only half the price 
of Cox's, and is every whit as good for jellies, 
and the better because it will not sink and burn. 

Shave off the rindof one lemon very thin, use 
the juice of both, careful not to boil any lemon 
seeds with the rest, and mix these and all the 
other ingredients named with the cold water. 
Set on to boil in a place where it will heat 
slowly, giving the gelatins tinio to dissolve, and 
beat the mixture with a spoon occasionally. 



One reason why people have trouble in making 
jelly of this sort is the diflieulty of gettiug the 
white of egg in it thoroughly cooked, as it floats 
on top in the form of scum. If not cuoked hard 
it runs through the strainer with the jelly and 
destroys its clearness with a milky appearance. 
Another thing is, the jolly does not run thiough 
a jelly bag easily unless there is lemon juice or 
other acid in it. Table je lies slould be as cleir 
as glass and as rich colored or they are failures. 

When the jelly has boiled about half an hour 
pour it through a flannel jelly hag, made funnel- 
shaped and suspended by strings, and repeat the 
running through three or four times. When all 
has dripped through divide it in cups, flavor 
with extracts, color delicately with burnt sugar 
and prepared cochineal, then nearly fill slender 
wine-glasses with it and set them in a cold place 
for the jelly to harden. 

Pour one glassful of jelly into a soup plats 
and beat it with a lork, beat the white of an egg 
the same way, mix them together and pile the 
frothed jelly on top of the glasses and let it like- 
wise solidify in a cold place. 



69— White Citron Cake. 

H ounces of granulated sugar. 

13 ounces of butter. 

13 ounces of white of eggs. 

1 pound of flour. 

1 small lemon. 

1.J teacupful of milk. 

1 pound of candied citron. 

Use unoolored dairy butter. Warm the sugar 
and butter slightly and stir them till white 
W] creamy, Ailc! tb? esg wbjt?? ft Jittle »t ft 



20 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



time and after that the flour. Don't beat the 
white of the eggs before mixing, but beat the 
whole mixture thoroughl.y aftyr the ilour is in. 
Then mix in the grated rind of the lemon and 
the juice, and last of all the railli. 

Cut the citron in tine shreds, mix in, and bake 
the cake in a mold lined with buttered paper. 
It is not one of the hardest cakes to bake, but 
should be done in an hour, less or more, accord- 
ing to thickness. 

60— Frosting for Cakes. 

1 pound of fine granulated sugar. 

6 whites of eggs. 

Juice of half a lemon. 

Flavoring. 

Have the ingredients and the bowl all cold and 
do the beating in a cold place. Put four of the 
whites into a deep bowl holding about a quart 
and all the sugar with them, and beat them to- 
gether with a wooden paddle rapidly for about 
fifteen minute.s. Then add one more white and 
beat till the frosting is again stiff and tenacious 
— abont five minutes more. Then squeeze in a 
teaspoonful of lemon juice, which whitens and 
stiffens the icing, and add flavoring. At last put 
in the remaining white of egg and beat up only a 
little, as this last makes the frosting glossy and 
smooth and with a tendency to settle down 
evenly ou the cake. 

Trim the cake a little, cover the hole left by the 
mold in the middle with a patch of writing paper, 
and spread and smooth the frosting over the top 
and sides with a knife. Any icing left over may 
be baked on pans at a gentle heat, in egg-shaped 
kisses. 



Gl— Oranjje Ice. 

3 pints of water. 

1 pound of sugar. 

4, 5 or 6 oranges, according to size. 

1 lemon, juice only, if tlie oranges are sweet 

•t whites of eggs. 

Make a thick syrup by boiling the sugar with 
very little water, pull two or tliree of the oranges 
apart, after peeling, by the natural divisions, and 
drop the pieces into the boiling syrup, carefully 
excluding the seeds, however. 

Grate the yellow zest of the remaining oranges 
into a bowl and squeeze in the juice; then pour 
the syrup from the scalded slices into the bowl, 
and keep the slices on ice, to be mixed iu at last 

Add the water and lemon juice to the syrux^ 
in the bowl; strain into a freezer and freeze. 
When nearly frozen whip the four whites firm; 
stir them in and beat up the ice till it looks like 
cream ; cover down and pack with more ice and 
salt, and when the ice has become firm enough 
mix in the sugared orange slices gently, without 
b"eakin£r them. Serve in ice-cups, glasses or 



MENU NO. VII— GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. 



63— Broiled Porter-house Steak. 




The cuts show two porter-house steaks ; the 
upper is the first that is cut, nearest to the ribs 
of beef, the lower is the last porter-house, and 
has a piece of the large hip bone. The steaks cut 
beyond that are the large sirloins. The small 
lower portions of lean on the left are slices of the 
tenderloin or fillet, of which every porter-house 
and also every sirloin steak carries a part. This 
tenderloin is thinnest near the ribs and thickest 
in the middle of the sirloin. To make satis- 
factory sizes of beefsteak of it, the fillet has to 
be out entire out of the loin of beef, sliced two or 
three times the ordinary thickness, and then flat- 
tened and spread by beating with the side of the 
cleaver. This, it is to be understood, is for a 
stylish dish of tenderloin steaks, the slice of fillet 
of the common thickness, or less than an inch, 
being amply suificient for each person for ordin- 
ary meals. The porter-house as shown in the 
cuts is, however, our present order, and is, taking 
it alt together, more of a favorite than the tender- 
loin itself. 

When cut very long and very fat the beefsteak 
may be shortened and trimmed a little, but it 
should not be beaten or flattened unless when 
required to be very well done. Brush over 
slightly with the butter brush to prevent stick- 
ing to the bars. Lay it on the sridiron over a 
clear fire (see No. 40), place a hot, well-polished 
brick on top and let the steak broil about three 
minutes. Then put away the brick, turn the 
steak over without sticking a fork into the lean 
and let it broil from three to six minutes longer, 
according to'thickness, and briskness of the fire. 
When done draw it on to a hot dish without 
losing the natural gravy that will have collected 
on top, and dredge with mixed salt and pepper. 

63— Fiesli Mushrooms. 

For an accompaniment to broiled meat the 
canned button mushrooms bear no comparison 
in richness with the large, wide-open, fresh 
mushrooms from the fields At least fifty varie- 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



21 



ties of mushrooms are eaten in European coun- 
tries, and there are kinds that are poisonous. 
We Itnow but one l:iud and take no riskg on the 
others. The trne mushroom is of a deUoate pink 
or flesh color on the imder side when it tirst 
opens, and darkens to chocolate color and then 
black, according to the time it continues grow- 
iug. 

When such can be obtained cut off most of the 
stem, peel the top of the mushroom, shake 
about in cold water to free it from grit or sand 
and fry (saute) enough of them together in 
a little butter in a frying pan to touch aud 
cover the bottom while cooking. They 
shrink very much, but give out a gravy 
of the richest description, which should 
not be allowed to dry up in the pan. Season 
with pepper and salt. "When the mushrooms are 
done — in three or four minutes — place them on 
top of the beefsteak and pour the gravy and but- 
ter over likewise. 

Another way, most suitable when the mush- 
rooms are to form a dish alone, is to place them 
top downwards on the wire broiler, dredge with 
salt and pepper, put a small pii^e of butter in 
each, broil and serve without turning over, as 
soon as the butter is melted. 



64 — Canned Mushrooms in Sauce. 

About half a can with two beefsteaks. Drain 
the mushrooms from their liquor and fry (aau;e) 
them in a small frying pan with a little butter. 
Add pepper and salt. When they have acquii-ed 
a slight color draw them to one side of the pan, 
put in a heaping teaspoonful of flour and rub it 
smooth in the hot butter, still keeping the pan 
over the fire, and when the flour has become 
slightly browned pour in the mushroom liquor 
gradually and a few spoonfuls of water. Shake 
in the mushrooms, let all boil up, squeeze in the 
juice of a quarter of a lemon and pour over the 
beefsteak in the dish. 



65— Frizzed or Shoestring Potatoes. 

Raw potatoes cut into shreds and fried. 

The cook is not always to blame for the poor 
appearance of fried potatoes, there being a great 
difference in the quality of the potatoes raw. A 
watery, waxy potato never has the bright ap- 
pearance and crisp floury taste when fried that a 
dry potato has, no matter how carefully the fry- 
ing may be done. Pare your potatoes, slice 
them thin and cut in shreds anywhere in 
thickness from a shoestring to a pencil, only all 
alike, and the longer the better. Throw them 
into hot frying fat or lard and letfry three or four 
minutes. 



The infallible rule to know when fried potatoes 
are done is this: When first thrown into the fat 
they sink, when done they rise aud float. After 
ihsit it is only a question of how much color 



when they should be taken out. Drain well in a 
strainer. Dredge fine salt over and a sprinkling 
of chopped parsley. 

The porterhouse steak with ranshrooms being 
ready on a large hot platter, place the frizzed po- 
tatoes around it on the same dish and serve. 



66— Oyser Omelet— For Two or Three. 

1 .^ oysters. 
4 eggs. 

2 large basting spoonfuls of milk. 
Seasonings. 

Cook the oysters rare done in a little suacepan 
separately, with a spoonful of milk, scrap of 
butter, and thickening to make white sauce of 
the liquor. 

Break the four eggs in a bowl, put in a spoon- 
ful of milk and beat with the wire egg whisk. 
Add a pinch of salt 

Shake a tablespoonful of melted lard about in 
the large omelet fi-ying pan and before it gets 
very hot pour in the omelet and let it cook rather 
slowly. 

Properly made omelets are not exactly rolled 
up, but there is a knack to be learned of shaxjing 
them in the pan by shaking while cooking iuto 
one side of it, the side farthest from you, while 
you keep the handle toward you raised higher. 
Loosen the edges with a knife when it ia nearly 
cooked enough to shake. 

When the omelet is nearly done in the center 
place the oysters with a spoon in the hollow mid- 
dle and pull over the further edge to cover them 
in. Slide on to the dish, smooth side up. Gar- 
nish with parsley and lemon. 



One reason of omelets and all fried eggs stick- 
ing to the frying pan is allowing the pan to get 
too hot. They seldom stick when poured into a 
pan that is only kept warm till wanted. The 
pans should be kept for no other purpose, and 
be rubbed smooth after using, if not bright 



67— Turkey Sala<l. 

Take the remainder of a cooked turkey or naif 
a boiled turkey, if cooked for the purpose, pick 
all the meat from the bones aud remove the 
thick fat aud skin, cut the meat into long shreds 
and then across, making the smallest possible 
dice shapes. Cnt celery, if in season, the same 
way, about two-thu'ds as much celery as there 
is turkey, or if that is not in Reason use crisp 
lettuce or admixture of lettuce andfinely chopped 
white cabbage, and add celery salt or extract or 
celery vinegar. Mix meat and vegetables to- 
gether, season slightly with pepper and salt. 
Pour in a little salad oil — say a quarter cupful, 
stir about and then stir in as much vinegar. 
Heap and smooth over the salad in a lai'ge 
platter — it will adhere and keep shape woi! — 



22 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



then pom- aucl spreai 
iiiavonaiso. 



il over it a well-aeasnnecl cheese a good deal whether it will prove satia- 
factorj'. 

1 I)..-.- ™ •*-"'l "■'^ addition to canapes aii fromage ia 

'■ - <•■ Bometimea made in the form of a nicely-poaohed 

egg on top of each canape, in the hot oheeae. 



G8-M!iy 

3 ra^y yolica of eggs. 

J^ teacupful of olive oil. 

About half as much vinegar or lemon juice. 

A level teaspoonf nl of salt. 

Same of made muatard. 

Pinch of Ciyenue. 

Put the two raw yolka in a pint bnwl, add two 
tableapoonfuis of oil, set the bowl in ice'water or 
otherwise make it cold, and beat with a Dover 
egg-beater about half a minute. Then add more 
oil and whip, and then throw in the salt, and on 
whipping again tho mixture will at once thicken 
up, looking like softened butter. Tnen add a 
spoonful of vinegar, then oil and so 
on alternately till all ia in. Add the 
mustard and cayenne for seasoumg. The 
best mayonaise is made . with lemon 
juice instead of part of the vinegar, and when it 
will not thicken as desired the lemon juice in- 
variably corrects the trouble aud gives the dress- 
ing the dciircd coiiaistenoy. It should not be 
thin enough to run, l>ut should coat over the pile 
of salad material it is spread upon. 



The foregoing shows the improved and quickest 
method of making this important sauce or dress- 
ing; the egg-beater or the want of it need not, 
however, be an oljstacle in tho way, for simply 
stirring around in Ihe liow.l with a wooden .spoon 
18 the way moat commonly practiced. 



After spreading the mayonaise over the turkey 
salad, ornament with quarters of hard-boiled 
eggs or with chopped yolka and parsley, olives, 
cut lemons or shapes stamped out of cooked 
beets. 

6D— ^%'^'lsll Karebit— Canapes au Fromage. 

4 ounces of cheese. 

2 ounces of butter. 
Quarter cupful of milk or ale. 

3 yolks of eggs. 

Little cayenne pepper and salt. 

4 thin pieces of toast. 

Chop the cheese small, throw it and the butter 
into a little saucepan and as they get warm mash 
them together. When softened add the yolks 
and ale and pinch of cayenne aud salt. Stir till 
it is creamy, but do not let it boil, for that would 
apoil it. Place tfie slices of toast on a dish, pour 
the creamed cheese upon them and set inside the 
oven about two minutes. The ale only heightens 
the flavor, and some prefer to use milk. 



The simplest form of Welsh rarebit is a slice of 
cheese placed on a slice of bread and baked in 
the oven, li depends upon t)ie quiility of tho 



■JO— Macaroon Tarts. 

Commonly miscalled macaroni tarts. Patty 
pans lined with sweet paste, partly filled with 
almond macaroon mixture aud baked. 



71— Sweet Tart Pastn. 

S ounces of ilour — a pint. 

3 ounces of butter — }4 cupful 

1 tablespoonf ul of powdered sugar. 

1 egg. Little salt. 

Quarter cupful of water. 

Bub the butter into the flour as in making 
short paste, add the egg, sugar and salt with the 
water, mix and knead it smooth. EoU out very 
thin, cut out pieces and line the patty pans. 

73— -Almoiid Macaroon Mixture. 

8 ounces of granulated sugar, 

4 whites of eggs. 

8 ounces of almonds. 

1 teaspoonful of lemon juice. 

Put the sugar and two of the whites in a deep 
bowl together, and beat with a wooden paddle 
about fifteen minutes, then add another white 
and beat again, then the lemon juice and then 
the last white. Crush the almonds by rolling 
them with the rolling-pin on the table. They 
need not be blanched (freed from the skins) un- 
less so preferred. When they are reduced to 
meal mix them with the contents of the bowl. 
This mixture, as well as cake icing, should al- 
ways be started with bowl and ingredients all 
cold, for if warm they cannot be beaten to the 
requisite d.gree of firmness. 



The patty pane or gem pans being already 
lined with the tart paste, half fill with the maca- 
roon paste, smooth over and bake in a very slack 
oven. The baking is the most difficult part, for 
with too much heat the macaroon mixture melts 
away to candy. These tarts, when right, rise 
smooth and rounded in the crusts, and are partly 
hollow underneath. 



73— Nesselrode Ice Cream. 

Glace Nesselrode or iced pudding. A frozen 
custard made of pounded chestnuts, with fruit 
and flavorings : 

1 pound of large chestnuts. 

1 pint of rich boiled custard. 

1 cup of sweet cream, 

3 ou'.icos of citron. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



23 



2 ounces of sultana raisins. 

2 ounces of stewed pineapple. 

!'.< cupful of marascliioo. 

1 teaspoonf ul of vanilla extract. 

Pinch of salt in the chestnut pulp. 

Slit the shells of the chestnuts, boil them half 
an hour, peel clean, and pound the nuts to a 
paste, and rub it through a fine sieve, moisten- 
ing with cream. Then mix it with the boiled 
custard. Freeze this mixture, and when firm 
whip the cup of cream, and stir it in and freeze 
again. Then add the citron cut in shreds, the 
stewed or candied pineapple, likewise the raisins, 
maraschino, and vanilla e.ttract. Beat up and 
freeze again, and either serve in ice cream plates 
out of the freezer, or pack the cream in a mold, 
and when well frozen send to table whole, turned 
out of the mold on to a folded napkin on a dish. 



74— Pound Cake. 

14 ounces of sugar. 

13 ounces of butter. 

10 eggs. 

1 pound of flour. 

Warm the butter and sugar and stir them to- 
gether to a cream, add the eggs two at a time, 
beating well, then the flour hy degrees. When 
all the flour is in it is finished. There should be 
no baking powder nor flavorings in pound cake. 



75— Coffee. 

In the city the right way they have of grinding 
coffee makes the retail grocery merchants greater 
correctors of the bad coffee makers than all the 
tirades that have ever been written. For coffee 
should be ground coarse, about like oatmeal, and 
then when boiled it clears itself naturally, but 
most people who grind at home reduce it to fine 
powder, making it difficult to clarify. The idea 
is, probably, that fine grinding insures the ex- 
traction of all the strength of the coffee, but the 
same is obtained when it is coarsely ground, for 
the berry is porous and the water penetrates 
it all. 

The ease with which coarse ground cofi'ee can 
be made clear by only allowing it to stand a while 
after a minute or two of boiling, acts very much 
against the adoption of any of the newly-con- 
trived coffee pots. I knew of a gentlemen's club 
once whose members, above everything, were 
proud of the excellence of their coffee, and I 
found their cook making it in as simple a man- 
ner as the Turks did at the Centennial celebra- 
tion. He boiled the coarsely ground coffee in a 
boiler of water, set it off the fire a few minutes, 
and then dipped it out of the top hy cupfuls, 
without touching the sediment. That was not 
science in hia case, but laziness, mere letting 
well enough alone, and he had to waste all the 
coffee at the bottom of the vessel. That only 



shows how easy it is to have coffee clear and of 
fine flavor. 

One of the best arrangements is the urn with a 
muslin bag suspended inside, which holds the 
coffee grounds, the coffee being drawn off and 
poured into the sack repeatedly till all the 
strength is extracted. A coft'ee pot with the 
same inside contrivance is defective, because 
should there, after all, be a fine sediment at the 
bottom it will be disturbed every time the coffee 
pot is tilted. 

The rule for good coffee is two ounces of coffee 
to a quart of water — making about five cups. 

Old government Java is commonly considered 
the best kind; a mixture of Java and Rio the 
most serviceable. Eio coffee is the cheapest, 
strongest, and by many preferred to the other 
kinds. 

French dripped coffee is never boiled, but 
boiling water is poured over tha coarse ground 
coffee in a perforated vessel set in the top of the 
coffee-pot. Double the quantity of coffee is re- 
quired to make it that way. 

French dripped coffee has no eggs or other ar- 
ticles added to clear it, neither has Turkish coffee, 
They are not necessary. If let alone I use no 
eggs for such a purpose, but the custom to the 
contrary is prevalent, and it is not worth con- 
tending against. 

Have the coffee fresh roasted and fresh ground, 
pour cold water to it in a bowl, just enough to 
wet it, put in the white of an egg and stir up, 
then pour it to hot water in the coffee-pot. When 
it has boiled a minute take it off and eitlier pour 
the whole contents into the strainer in the urn or 
else put in hilf a cup of cold water and let it 
settle in the pot. 

And once I went to. a restaurant where the 
coffee in former times had been most excellent, 
but now it was detestable, being always like ink 
in color and of a vile cankerous taste. I ad- 
vised throwing away the urn, w^hich had been in 
use night and day, always with hot coffee in it, 
for over two years. It was a good-looking affair 
outside, but inside was tin-corroded and black- 
ened. But to save it a course of scouring and 
intervals of dryness and new ways of making the 
coffee were instituted, but all to no purpose, and 
at last, from sheer necessity, the used-up urn 
was thrown away, and a new one, bright and 
shining, took its place, and once more there was 
delicious coffee. People who find coffee-making 
difficult, and think there must be a secret art in 
it that they have never found out, will perhaps 
do well to see that the inside of the much-used 
coffee-pot or urn has not become corroded and 
iron-rusted unawares. There are strong chemi-, 
cal properties in coffee that make it necessary to 
keep it, if kept at all, in earthenware, or some- 
thing that is not metal. 



24 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



lENU NO. VIII— BREAKFAST. 



76— Stewed Chicken With Egs Dumplinss. 

It is a convenient ouatom that prevails of call- 
ing every fowl a chicken, although some of them 
could not be any tougner by any other name. 
Really young chickens are not very interesting, 
because they ca n be so easily broiled or fried ; 
but on the same principle that an angler prizes 
most the kind of fish that it is the hardest to 
wrestle with when caught, we should accord the 
greatest consideration to the very mature fowl 
and measure our skill by our success in making 
her once more a tender chicken, if not a young or 
small one. 



■77- How to Cut Up a Fowl. 

It saves a good deal of embarrassment to the 
person who must serve out the stewed chicken or 
pot-pie, if the fowl be divided in proper pieces 
before cooking, the object in cutting up being to 
make every piece presentable. For this reason 
the proper way is to chop it apart, neatly, and 
with clean cuts with a heavy knife, for it divided 
according to the joints some portions will be bare 
of meat and might as well have been kept out 



First, split the fowl in halves lengthwise. This 
can be done by cutting down the middle of the 
back with a sharp kitchen knife, laying the fowl 
wide open and chopping through the breast bone 
inside. Lay a half on the board and sever the 
drumstick by chopping through the joint. Chop 
through the hip joint, or a little on the meaty 
side of it, and slantwise, taking at that cut the 
side bone and tail end, all sufficiently covered 
with meat, a little derived from the second joint, 
and then cut off the second joint by chopping 
straight across the fowl, making three pieces of 
equal weight of that quarter. 

Cut off the two small joints of the wing. Chop 
off the main joint slantwise, so that it will have 
attached to it tne piece of neck bone and a small 
portion of the breast. There will remain nearly 
the entire breast, which should be chopped 
straight across and make two pieces. 

Cut up the other half of the fowl in the same 
way. It is just like skillful carving of a cooked 
fowl in results ; a proper method of cutting up 
gives to each person at table a piece of meat of 
equally good appearance, and not to one all the 
meat and to the next a dark-looking piece of 
bone, already stripped. 



The fowl having been out up, wash the pieces 
in cold water with care to free them from any 
fragments of bone left by the chopping. Put 
the pieces into a saucepan, with cold water 



enough to cover them — about a quart — and boil 
with the lid on till tender. 

A very young chicken may be done in 15 or 20 
minutes. One a year old takes an hour or more. 
But some that are of mature years, if fat, are as 
good as any if only cooked long enough — prob- 
ably three hours. The cook's concern is only 
to know how long before the meal to commence 
the-oooking, in order to have it just right, for 
too much boiling is as bad as too little. (See 
No. 33.) 

78— Stewing and Boiling Fowls. 

Stewed chicken should be commenced in cold 
water, as above directed, the liquor becoming the 
richer for it ; but when a fowl is boiled whole it 
is desirable to have it juicy, so that the gravy 
will run out of it when cut, and for that reason 
it should he dropped into water (or soup) that is 
already boiling, the heat of the water imme- 
diately cooking the outside prevents the juices 
oozing out, as would be the case if it were set on 
cold and gradually heated to the boiling pomt. 



While the chicken is stewing throw in a table- 
spoonful of chopped onion, a piece of pickled 
pork as big as an egg, out into shreds, about a 
level teaspoonful of salt, half as much black 
pepper and a cupful of milk. Mix two table- 
spoonfuls of flour with a little water and stir 
that in to thicken it. Then make the egg 
dumplings, cook them separately if you care to 
have the dish look attractive, dish up the chicken 
in a large platter, lay tlie dumplings across the 
top, pour in what gravy the dish will hold and 
set a bowlful on the table beside. 



79— Ess: OuinpUngs. 

1 heaping cupful of flour. 

3 yolks or 1 whole egg. 

3 or 4 tabiespoonfuls of water, 

Little salt. 

Have the flour in a bowl or small pan, make a 
hole in the middle and throw in the salt, mix the 
3 yolks with about their bulk of water or a little 
more, pour into the flour and mix up to smooth 
yellow dough. Roll it out thin, cut in ribbons 
and drop tliem into the boiling liquor — either the 
chicken stew or a sauoenan of salted water ready 
for the purpose. Keep the lid on and cook for 
about ten minutes. 



SO-Codlish ISalls. 

8 ounces of raw pared potatoes. 
6 ounces of boneless salt codfish. 
I tablespoonf ul of butter, melt«d. 
legg. 

Pinch of black pepper. 
Flour to ball up with. 

Soak the codfish, if convenient, a little wliile 
before cooking. Boil it about lialf an h.iur. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



Pick it over for bones, then pound it in a pan 
"with the potato masher. iSoii or steam the 
potatoes, and when done and well drained of 
water mash them with the fish, add the butter, 
pepper and egg, make up into balls either rouud 
or flattened, with plenty of flour on the hands, 
drop them into hot frying fat and fry of a nice 
brown color. 

When the common large salt codfish is used 
chop it into pieces suitable to the saucepan, and. 
whether steeped in water first or not, always 
pour off the first water as soon as it boils and fill 
up with plenty of fresh. This takes away the 
rank taste. Good codfish balls cannot generally 
be made with the mashed potatoes left from din- 
ner because of the moisture in them. The ar- 
ticle properly made is rather dry and has a per- 
ceptible flavor of good black pepper. 



81— Boston Brown Bread. 

1 pint cupful of corn meal— large. 

1 pint of boiling water. 

}{ coffeecupful of black molasses. 

;<f pint of cold water. 

1 small teaspoonf ul of salt 

teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

1 lieaping pint of Graham flour. 
1 heaping pint of white flour. 

Pour the boiling water into the corn meal iu a 
pan to scald it, add the molasses, then the rest of 
the ingredients, the powder mixed iu the flour. 
Beat up thoroughly. It makes a stiff batter or 
dough too soft to be handled. Put it into a tin 
or iron pail having a tight lid and steam it at 
least four hours. It may then be turned out of 
the pail and baked about fifteen minutes. 



When the old-fashioned black molasses cannot 
be had, a little burnt sugar coloring ough t to be 
added to make the bread of the proper color. A 
pail or two might well be provided, such as the 
bakers use to bake the bread in as well as steam 
it They are made to hold about two quarts, in 
shape like a piece of stovepipe, but halt an inch 
wider at the top than at the bottom. Russia iron 
is the material. Should the loaves become dis- 
colored in the pails, prevent it by lining the pails 
first with greased manilla paper. 



Instead of the baking-powder iu the brown- 
bread recipe, a pint of buttermilk can be used 
instead of that much water, and a teaspoonful of 
soda added. 

83- Bread Batter Cakes. 

4 pressed cupfuls of white bread crumbs. 

1 cupful of flour. 

2 cupfuls of buttermilk. 
1 egg ; little salt 

1 teaspoouful of soda. 

Remove the dark crust from the bread before 
cutting up. Mince it small ; pour the buttermil 



over it and let remain a while to soften ; then mix 
in the flour and egg and soda. 



If no buttermilk, use water and a teaspoouful 
of baking-powder; but bread-crumbs mixed up 
without scalding make a mixture light already, 
and the powder is of little consequence. 



83— Crullers or Fried Calces. 

1 pound or quart of flour. 

3 small teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

1 teacupful of milk. 
Butter size of an egg. 

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

2 eggs ; little salt. 

Mix the powder in the flour. Melt the butter 
in a tin cup and add the milk to it and the sugar, 
eggs and salt. Pour this fluid mixture into the 
middle of the flour, ana mix up like biscuit. 
Knead the dough on the table a little by pressing 
out with the flat hauas. EoU out, cut and fry 
the cakes right away. Almost any shape does 
for these. They take longer to get done than 
yeast doughnuts, and, therefore, should be rolled 
thin. Cut out rings, or long bands and twist 
them. 

When making fried cakes be sure that the 
sugar is dissolved in the liquid the flour is mixed 
with, as otherwise they will be greasy when 
done. Buttermilk and a level teaspoonful of 
soda may be used instead of the milk and 
powder. 

84-Clarifyins Fat for Fryinff. 

We have had in this menu two articles to be 
fried by immersion in hot fat. The codfish balls 
might be fried in the drippings from any kind of 
roast meat They make the fat they are fried in 
unfit almost for any other use. Crullers ought 
to be fried in fresh lard, and they do not injure 
it much. 

But it is necessary that the cook should un- 
derstand how to prepare the fat that is saved in 
cooking to make it fit for these purposes. The 
fat that is skimmed from gravies or taken out of 
the roast meat pan, or off the soup all contains 
water and cannot be used to fry with until the 
water is expelled by boiling. And when the 
water is expelled, if there has been much of it, a 
sediment like gravy will be found slicking on the 
bottom, and the grease must be poured from that 
into a clean saucepan before good frying can be 
done with it Much of the bad cooking of fish, 
and the difliculty found in frying breaded cutlets 
is attributable to the want of knowledge of this 
apparently trifling matter. Fat to have articles 
fried in it must be hotter than boiling water, so 
much hotter that it will hiss when water is 
dropped into it, but it cannot be until the soup 
or gravy is boiled out. So when breaded articles 



26 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



or doughnuts are dropped in they simply stew in 
it, the breading cornea off and they come out 
after a long time soalied full of grease and 
smoky, with the taste of the sediment on the bot- 
tom. Properly fried articles, when well drained, 
have no more grease about them than the crust 
of corn bread. "When meat is roasted, if the pan 
is allowed to bake after the meat has been taken 
out until the gravy on the bottom is brown, then 
the fat poured off is already clarified and ready 
for use in frying. 



MENU NO. IX.— LUNCHEON. 



85— Articles En Caisse. 

The first dish in this menu requires paper 
oases, which mav, perhaps, be found made of the 
proper shape of rice paper, very ornamental, 
aud of no great cost; but if not, they can be 
made of fine cap, like writing paper not ruled. 
The cases should be from three to four inches 
long, one to one and a half inches wide, or there- 
about, and the sides only half an inch high. It is 
worth while to give the details here, because such 
cases, but of varying shapes, are needed also for 
game souffles and for biscuit glaces. 

To get the right size in this case take a half 
sheet of ordinary commercial note paper and cut 
off one-third of its width a.nd one-third of its 
length. Fold over the two sides of the remaining 
piece of paper to meet down the middle and fold 
over the two ends to the same width as the sides ; 
cut the edges serrated all around and bend them 
outward for ornament; clip once at each corner 
and paste the case box-like, or, rather, tray-like, 
into the required shape. 



86— Brook Trout in Cases. 

Take the smallest trout, one for each case re- 
quired, dip in boiling water a moment, and then 
pull off the skin, beginning at the gills. Chop off 
the head aud tail, slit down the back with a pen- 
knife, and take out the bone and trail. Wipe 
clean, sijread a httle of the fish forcemeat (No. 
87), to restore the plump appearance of the fish, 
double it m natural form again, and place it in 
a baking pan previously brushed over with soft- 
ened butter; aud so continue until the pan is 
filled with the required number. Mince a few 
mushrooms and sprinkle over the fish, aud some 
parsley and a very little minced omon, pepper 
and salt. Pour in broth and sherry in equal 
proportions, enough to moisten the bottom of the 
pan, set the pan in the oven, and bake about fif- 
teen minutes, basting with the liquor from a cor- 
ner of the pan once or twice. 

Brush tlio paper cases inside with a touch of the 
clear part of melted butter, spread a verj' 
thin layer of fish forcemeat oii tl-e bQlti'n? ^rf 



each one by means of two spoons, and bake them 
in the oven with the door partly open for about 
ten minutes. Take up the trout with a broad 
knife and place each in its case. Pour a little 
more sherry and twice as much brown gravy into 
the fish pan, boil up, thicken slightly if neces- 
sary, strain, and pour a spoonful over each fish. 



87- Fisli Forcemeat. 

8 or 10 ounces of whitefish, raw. 
G ounces of fine bread crumbs. 
4 ounces of butter. 
3 yolks of eggs. 

tablospoonfuls of milk. 

1 tablespoonf ul of chopped parsley. 
Lemon Juice, nutmeg, pepper, salt. 

See that the fish is free from bones, take off 
the skin, cut up and potind the fish to a paste. 
Throw in the other ingredients and pound them 
all together till well mixed and smooth. Use the 
nutmeg very sparingly. Should any of this 
forcemeat be left over from its first purpose it 
can be made over into fish croquettes. 



Brown bread and butter is served with fish in 
cases, not the partly-sweetened Boston brown, 
but brown home-made graham bread. 



88- Bn^flish Home-IVIade Bread. 

3 pounds of sifted graham flour. 

1 quart of warm water. 

}{ ounce of compressed yeast. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 

By sifted graham is meant flour with the 
coarsest bran taken out. Commence 7 or 8 hours 
before time to bake. Dissolve the yeast in the 
water aud mix up half the flour with it, that is 
"setting sponge." Place the pan in a warm cor • 
ner, to remain 4 hours. Then throw in the salt, 
mix up to stiff dough, scrape out the pan and 
knead smooth. Brush over the pan with the 
least possible amount of melted lard, or lard and 
hot water, to prevent sticking, put in the lump 
of dough and brash it over, aud let rise ii hours 
more. Then knead, make into loaves, rise again 
and bake. 



Where potato yeast is used instead of com- 
pressed, take about one-foturth as much yeast as 
water. 

89— Boned Ducks Witli Jelly. 

Take two plump tame ducks that have not been 
drawn, singe, aud pick out the pinfeathers, cut 
the skin down the whole length of the back from 
end to end, and with the point of a sharp knife 
cut the meat and skin from the bones of the car- 
cass without cutting through. Wheu the middle 
of the l.'Rc}! lifvs been }ai4 b^re and the hip joints 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



27 



and wing joints are reached, chop through them 
with the heavy end of a carving Imife, and keep 
on with the boning knife close to the breast bone 
till all the meat of the duck is taken off in one 
piece. Then bone part way down the legs and 
wings, chop off the rest and tuck the meat into 
the carcass. Wash in cold water and dry with a 
cloth. Lay the ducks, skin downwards, on the 
table and take scraps of the meat from the thick 
parts and lay over the thin, that it may out all 
aJike when cooked. 

Next dredge with a little pepper and salt, and 
epread the galantine forcemeat of the next recipe 
evenly over them. Pull up the two sides to- 
gether in the natural shape of the ducks before 
the bones were taken out. Sew ihem up with 
coarse thread or twine, roll them up in separate, 
clean muslin pudding cloths, pin and tie the ends 
and boil about V4 or 3 hours. 

When they are done place them in a pan or 
bowl of some sort that will give them a good 
shape, set another pan on top and a heavy weight 
on that and leave them to get cold in the cloths. 

When they are to be used take off the wrap- 
pings, wipe the ducks with a cloth dipped in hot 
water, trim off ragged edges, then brush them 
over with a brush dipped in melted butter, which, 
setting on the cold meat, gives it a smooth and 
fat appearance. 

The boned ducks may be ornamented and set 
on the table whole, but are very suitable to be 
sliced and placed on a dish, the forcemeat being 
quite ornamental, with a mottled appearance, ■ 
and jelly can be used to decorate with besides. 



90— Galantine Stuffins for Ducks, etc. 

2 ducks or fowls boiled tender. 
12 ounces of white bread crumbs. 
1 small onion. 

3 hard boiled eggs. 

3 raw eggs. 

}4 cupful of melted poultry fat 
1 cupful of meat jelly. 

4 teaspoonf ul3 of aromatic salt, or pepper, 
salt and sage. 

Strip the meat from the boiled chickens or 
ducks when cold — there should be IJ^ pounds of 
it — cut it in very small dice as if for salad, like- 
wise the boiled eggs and onion and bread 
crumbs. Mix all, moisten with the raw 
eggs and poultry fat or butter, chop the 
meat jelly and strew it over the forcemeat after it 
is spread in the boned ducks. It remains in 
them and sets in the forcemeat. It is not essen- 
tial, however. 



Directions for making aspic jelly for cold meat 
dishes we will give furthejr on wljieti we come to 
boned turkeys, 



91— Orange Transparent Tarts. 

4 ounces of sugar. 

4 ounces of best fresh butter. 

5 eggs. 

1 large orange. 

Grate the rind of the orange — only the thin 
yellow part — into a deep saucepan, using a tin 
grater, and scraping off with a fork what ad- 
heres. Throw in the sugar, squeeze in the juice, 
add the butter and 'the eggs slightly beaten. 
Stir the mixture over the fire till it becomes 
thick and ropy, like melted cheese. Then take 
it from the fire and beat it a minute with the 
wire egg-beater. The cooking of this mixture in 
the saucepan causes it to remain light and thick 
and rounded in the tarts, instead of waxy, as it 
otherwise would do. 



Make the sweet tart paste, No. 71, and line 
patty pans or gem pans with it, half till witli 
orange mixture and bake on the bottom of a very 
slack oven. Sometimes it is necessary to have n 
pan on the shelf above to ward off tiie heat. 
The quantity of the recipe should make ten or 
twelve tarts, depending, of course, upon their 
size. Powdered sugar miy be dredged over 
when cold. 



MENU NO. X— DINNER. 



There are some immense steam stock boilers in 
use in the large establishments of this city — in 
the Tremont House and Kinsley's — that would 
surprise some people, showing what importance 
is attached to the making of good soup. Two 
eighty-gallon boilers bubble and steam at once, 
reducing meat to the state of jelly, extractin.g the 
essence of poultry and game, all these large 
amounts to be dipped up at last by spoonfuls at 
the table. But these boilers have to fill a great 
many mouths, and if we examine it will appear 
that the eighty-gallon space is two-thirds taken 
up with the bones and frames of fowls and 
shanks of veal, and there will only be a small 
barrel or two of soup after all when it is drawn 
off at the stock-boiler faucets. 



93— ScotcU Barle5 Soup. 

3 or 4 pints of souo stock. 

3 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley. 

Turnip, carrot, onion, parsley. 

A piece of boiled meat. 

Salt and pepper. 

When there is choice of meat this soup should 
be made with mutton ; or, a piece ot cold mutton 
may be cut up in it, the stock having been made 
of any other kind. 

Wash the barley in two waters and boil it in 
plenty of water for about two hours, then strain 
away the blue looking liquor from it, rinse ip 



28 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



cold water, and have the barley ready to put in 
the soup at last. 

Cut two slices of turnip and half as much car- 
rot and onion in small dice, all of a size, and 
boil them in the soup until tender — about three- 
quarters of an hour. Cut the meat^about as 
much as there was of turnips, and all lean — the 
same way and throw in, and the cooked barley 
and chopped parsley. Season slightly. No 
thickening. This is a cheap soup, of good ap- 
pearance in the plates, and is a favorite with 
most people. 

If any one doubts that a soup can be of no- 
ticeably good appearance, even ornamental, they 
are reminded how often the novelists describe 
magnificent entertamments where many-colored 
soups are served in porcelain cups — soups white 
with cream, green with pounded peas or spinach, 
red with lobster coral, amber, clear, and so forth, 
^nd with all sorts of colored additions of egg- 
balls and pastes in them, and will sea that it is 
worth while to select colored vegetables and cut 
them in neat shapes, even for the simple Scotch 
broth. 

93— Baked Macldnaw Trout, 

Chop off the head, tail and fins of the trout and 
scrape it The scales are few and small, but the 
outward fishiness of the skin needs scraping off, 
nevertheless. Push the point of a knife down 
and sever the bone at the places where the poi-- 
tions are to be taken off after cooking, so that the 
fish will not have to be torn to pieces. Cleanse 
and wash it. 

Spread drippings, or the fat taken off the top of 
the soup boiler, in a narrow baking pan, strew 
in a little salt and add a few shreds of onion, tur- 
nip and carrot, half a cupful of broth and a 
spoonful or two of vinegar (or half a lemon out 
up), and set the fish in it to bake about half an 
hour. The style of cooking is known as Gene- 
voise and the obi'ect is to get the fish coated and 
glazed over with its own gravy, that mixes with 
the contents of the nan, and that means frequent 
basting until there is no liquor left in to baste 
with. Take up the fish, pour a httle sherry wine 
and water into the pan, let it boil a minute, then 
thicken shghtly and strain the gravy and pour it 
under the fish. 

94— Mashpd Potatoes 

Are generally served, a little on the same plate, 
with baked fish. Being such a common and easy 
article it is often the most neglected and goes to 
table dark and full of lumps, when it ought to be 
as smooth as if pressed through a sieve. Butter 
and milk to mash with are good additions in thoir 
way, but vigorous pounding of the potatoes with 
a little salt and not water or perhaps the clear fat 
from the top of the soup will make very fine 
mashed potatoes when neither of those luxuries 



can be afforded. The longer the mashing is con- 
tinued, provided the potato is kept hot at the 
same time, the whiter it becomes. It is an im- 
provement, to serve with fish, to bake the mashed 
potato in a pie pan, brushing the top over with 
milk to cause it to brown easily. 



95-Boile(l Mutton. 

Where selection can be made the leg of mutton 
is always the piece that is boiled. This, with 
caper sauce, is one of the peculiarly English din- 
ner dishes, and it is a cont;inual source of dissat- 
isfaction with English tourists that American, 
boiled mutton is always well done while they ex- 
pect it to be as underdone as our rare roast beef. 
i?or well-done boiled mutton a shoulder, or even 
a coarser piece, does nearly as well. Take the 
bone out of a shoulder of mutton by cutting close 
with the point of a knife until the meat comes otT 
all in one piece. Boll it up, tie round with 
thread, wash in cold wator, then drop it in the 
boiling soup stock and let boil an hour. 



96— Caper Sauce. 

1 tablespoonful of flour. 

Same weight of butter. 

y^ cupful of boiling water. 

1 tablespoonful of capers and vinegar. 

Melt the butter in a tin cup over the fire and 
stir the flour into it, and when it bubbles up add 
the water a little at a time. To have it very nice 
a teaspoonf ul of cold butter should be beaten In 
after the sauce is removed from the fire. After 
that mix in the caper vinegar and a pinch of salt 
Pour a spoonful of sauce over the slice of meat 
and shake some capers over with a teaspoon. 
Pickles are often used instead of capers, chopped 
to the same size. 



-Kentueky <;o 



L Puddin 



A vegetable side dish, not sweet. 

1 pint of grated green corn— or % can. 

Butter size of an egg. 

}4 teaspoonful of salt 

Little whit« pepper. 

yolks of eggs. 

1 cupful of milk. 

If canned corn is used, mash it a little ; warm 
the butter and stir in, and the eggs mixed with 
the milk. Bake in a pan same as a custard, only 
till the pudding is just fairly set in the middle. 
Serve instead of other vegetables. Itis a country 
treat 

98— Kadisli Greens. 

Pick over the radish leaves, cut off the thickest 
stems, and let lie in cold water. Have a pot of 
water ready boiling, throw in soda the size of a 
bean and then put in the greens, Boil half an 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



29 



hour. They will retain their ereen color. Drain 
well, season and chop them short in the pan. 



99-Boiled Suet Fuddinff. 

y^ pound of flour — a pint. 

3 ounces of chopped suet — 1 cup. 

4 ounces of sugar — ^^ cup. 

4 ounces of currants or raisins. 

y^ cupful of milk. 

1 sgg. 

Pinch of soda. Salt. 

Rub the suet into the flour first. Stir up thor- 
oughly with all the other ingredients. Tie up in 
a floured pudding cloth, drop into boiling water 
and let boil four hours. 



100— White Sauce for l>iiddln£.s. 

1 level cupful of powdered sugar. 

J^ cupful of butter. 

3 whites of eggs. 

3 tablespoonfuls of brandy or flavoring. 

Take half the sugar and stir it up with the 
softened butter to a cream, as if making cake. 
Have the whites (that were leftover from maliing 
corn pudding) quite cold, that they may whip 
easilj^; whip to a firm froth and stir in the re- 
maining sugar. Mix this and the butter mixture 
together lightly, without beating; add the brandy 
and keep the sauce on ice till wanted. It should 
be made late. 



101— Lemon Pie. 

4 ounces of sugar — 3^ cupful. 
1 large lemon. 

J^ pint of water — 1 cupful. 

1 rounded tableapoonful of corn starch. 
3 yolks, or 1 or 2 eggs. 

Put the sugar in a saucepan, grate into it the 
yellow rind and squeeze in the juice of the 
lemon without the bitter seeds. Add the water 
and sei over the fire. Mix the starch with a 
spoonful of water and add it as soon as the 
lemon syi'up begins to boil. Take off immediately 
and add the eggs, which are not to be cooked in 
it, but in the pies. This makes 1 or 2 pies, ac- 
cording to size. 

103— Plain Pie Paste. 

5 rounded oupfuls of flour. 

3^ cupful of butter, or lard, drippings, or 
minced suet. 

J^ cupful of cold water. 

Little salt 

Keep out a dusting of flour. Kub the shorten- 
ing into the other, dry. Pour the water in the 
middle, aud mix up soft. Pat it out smooth on 
the table, roll out once and fold over, and it is 
ready for use. 

103— Alering:acD I'or X.eljion Pies. 

3 whites of eggs. 

2 tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. 
Flavoring. 



Whip the whites with a wire egg whisk. They 
must be cold, to whip up easily. Stir in the 
sugar and few drops of flavoring. Use imme- 
diately. 

Meringue or frosting falls flat and worthless on 
lemon pies and other ai'ticles generally through 
too much baking. When the pies are nearly 
done spread the meringue upon them in the oven 
as they are by means of a long spoon. The hot 
surface cooks the frosting at bottom at once, and 
prevents its melting away. Let remain with the 
oven door open till the top is straw-colored. 



104— Corn Starch lilauc-Mang:e. 

1 pint of milk — 2 large cups. 

3 ounces of sugar — 3 tablespoonfuls. 

1}.^ ounces of starch — 2 tablespoonfuls. 

Butter size of a cnerry. 

Flavoring extract 

Pinch of salt. 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it Mix the 
starch in a cup with a little cold milk extra, stir 
into the boiling milk and let it cook a minute or 
two. Take from the fire, beat in the butter to 
whiten it; salt and flavor, aud put immediately 
into cups or other moulds previously wetted with 
cold water. 

Turn out when cold and serve with sweetened 
cream or diluted fruit ielly. A small peach leaf 
boiled in the milk gives a good flavor, or a piece 
of stick cinnamon, or orange peel — the thin- 
shaved yellow zest only. These, of course, are 
in place of the extracts. 



105— ScotcU Seed Calse. 

Takes 5 hours' time to make, raise and bake, 
using dough to begin with. 

1 pound of light bread dough. 
6 ounces of sugar. 

G ounces of butter. 

2 eggs. 

1 small teaspoonful of carraway seeds. 

4 ounces of flour. 

Weigh out the dough at 7 or 8 in the morning, 
set it with the butter and sugar in the same pan 
in a warm place. At about 9 work all together 
and beat in the eggs, and add the seeds. Give it 
another half hour lo become smooth, then add 
the flour and give the whole .5 minutes' beating. 
It makes a stiff batter — not dough. Let it rise in 
the pan about two hours; then beat again. Put 
it in a buttered cake mould. Bise about an 
hour. Bake as you would bread 



106— Corned Beef Brine. 

6 gallons of water— nearly 3 pailfuls. 

3 to 6 ounces of saltpeter, in large crystals. 

1 pint of molasses or sugar. 

10 pounds of coarse salt 

Boil the above all together and skim while 
it is boiling. Pour it into two stone jars or a 
keg or barrel. The jars are best in places where 



so 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



there are pieces of beef unsuitable for roasting, 
to be rolled up and tied in shape and dropped in 
every day, one jar to receive the fresh additions 
and the other to use out of that which is suffi- 
ciently corned. 

For this use the larger quantity of saltpeter is 
needed. Beef dropped in this pickle will be 
ready for use iu a week. 

But wheu a quarter of beet is to be cut up and 
put down iu brine to remain in it a very long 
time, 3 or 4 ounces of saltpeter is sufficient For 
the saltpeter makes the red color,, and we do not 
want the sliced corned beef on our New England 
boiled dinner to look as red as the beets. The 
barrel should be kept in a cool, dry cellar. Put 
a board on top of the meat and a rock upon that. 
Keep covered. 

107— Potato Yeast. 

6 or 8 potatoes. 
1 handful of hops. 
1 pint cupful of flour. 

1 tablespoouful of sugar. 

2 dry yeast cakes to start it, or a cupful of 
yeast from the baker's. 

Pare the potatoes and boil them in plenty of 
water, and tie the hops in a piece of mosquito 
bar and boil with them. Have the flour in a pan, 
pour the boiling potatoes and water to it and 
mash all together. Let it cool, or add cold water 
or ice. When no more than milk- warm strain 
through a sieve, mix iu the sugar and the yeast 
cakes or yeast, and let it stand in a warm corner 
in a jar to ferment for twenty-four hours. 



Yeast of this sort will not turn sour so soon 
if the flour is well scalded as above directed. 
Sugar makes it stronger than it would be with- 
out This having been started witk dry yeast 
cakes will do to start the next making without 
using yeast cakes agaiiL Salt is not needed in 
yeast, but it seems to do no harm. The very 
strongest, sweetest and best yeast can only be 
made by starting the fermentation in it with 
bakers' stock yeast, which sometimes can be 
obtained of them. We will return to this matter 
at another time. Yeast will keep good in cold 
weather two or three weeks if free from sour- 
ness at the start. 

lOS— Dry Yeast Cake.s. 

Take a quart of potato yeast, add a spoonful 
of sugar to it and stir in a quart of flour. Wheu 
it has well risen in the pan add a quart of meal, 
or what will make dough of it all; press out, 
roll, cut out like biscuits and dry as quickly as 
possible. Hop yeast cakes are the same thing 
made with stock yeast instead of potato. 



109— Cream Cheese. 

Take a quart of cream that has become sour 
and thick, mix iu a tablespoonfnl of salt and pour 
into it a piece of thin muslin (butter wrapping) 



placed in a sieve or basket bottom. Leave it in 
the milk house or other cool place three days, to 
drain and ripen, pouring away the whey from 
the dish it stands on every day. Lift the cheese 
out by taking hold of the corners of the cloth; 
invert it on to a plate. These are sometimes in- 
verted on to a large cabbage leaf on the second 
day and taken to market on the leaf the next day 
by those who make them for sale. 



110— Sour Milk Cheese. 

Set a pan of clabbered milk on the stove when 
there is not much fire, and let it heat slowly with- 
out burning on the bottom. When it shows 
signs of boiling it should be taken off, as actual 
boiling makes the curd tough. Pour it into a 
piece of muslin, tie and hang on a nail to drip 
till next day. Chop up the ball of curd and mix 
with salt, pepper and cream to taste, or cream or 
sweet milk and sugar. 



Ill— Pickled Nasturtium Seeds. 

Substitute for capers and good in a jar of mixed 
picklea. 

Gather the green seed-pods daily and throw 
them into brine to keep till there is enough. 
Wash in freah water; fill pickle bottles with 
them ; pour in boiling vinegar enough to cover 
them; cork when cold, and seal with wax. They 
improve with keeping. Any fence-corner does 
for nasturtium flowers and seeds. 

113— Pickled Radish Pods. 

Pick off the green seed-pods of radishes while 
they are tender and throw them into a jar of salt 
and water. When you have enough drain the 
salt and water from them, boil it and pour it hot 
upon the nods ; cover down, let remain till cold, 
then boil and pour it over the pods again, and 
after that twice more ; then drain them dry and 
put them back in the jar. 

Boil enough good vinegar to cover the pods 
with a small piece of race ginger and some pep- 
per-corns in it; pour it hot over the pods and let 
stand till cold. Boil and repeat twice more. Tie 
down when cold and keep in a cool place. 



113— Fickletl Sweet Corn Ears. 

Take the "iiubbins" of early corn where there 
are too many forming on the stalk, while very 
small and tender. Trim neatly, and boil them H 
minutes in water slightly salted. Drain and put 
them in a jar. Boil good white vinegar enough 
to cover and pour it boiling hot over the corn 
and let it remain so until next day. Then boil 
the vinegar again, adding a little salt; fill up the 
jar with it when partially cold. Cork the jar 
and seal it. 



114— Pickled Celery Roots. 

Save the solid white roots of celery, that are 
usually thrown away, trim and cut them in thick 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



31 



slices. Boil them in salted water about ten min- 
utes, drain, and put them into a jar. 

Boil vinegar enough to cover them, with a 
tablespoonful of whole pepper-corns in it and 
pour it to the celerj'. After stindiug a day drain 
off the vinegar, mix mustard with it and cayenne, 
and pour it back intj the jar. 

This has some resemblance to chow-chow, and 
other kinds of pickles can be added. Cork down 
and seal the jar. 

115-PickIe<l Carrots. 

Take small carrots, such as first 
come to market in bunches in sum- 
mer. Scald them and rub and wash 
off the skin. Parboil them in salted water, drain, 
and put them in a jar. Boil vinegar enough to 
cover them, pour it in and let remain so twenty- 
four hours. Then drain off the vinegar and boil 
it again. Put one bay leaf and tliree or four 
cloves in witti the carrots, add a httle salt to the 
boiling vinegar and pour it to the carrots again. 
Cork down the jar when nearly cold and seal it. 



These pickled young carrots are as good as 
pickled beets, care being taken not to get them 
cooked soft when parboiling them, and they add 
another color and ornament to the salad dishes 
and supper table. 

116-Pickled Beets. 

They are so called when only sliced cooked 
beets put into vinegar as wanted. The French, 
however, cut them in fancy shapes and add ilav- 
ormgB to the vinegar. 

Having cooked the beets a longer or shorter 
time, according to the size and kind, cut them 
into pieces of even size. Boil vinegar enough to 
cover them in the jar, with a blade of mace, a 
piece of ginger and a piece of horseradish ; pour 
it boiling hot to the sliced beets, and cork down 
when cold. If to be kept long, boil the vinegar 
again in a week, pour it to the beets, cork when 
cold, and seaL The bottles or glass jars should 
be heated gradually by setting them in a pan of 
very warm water to prevent breaking. 



It IS customary to say when giving directions 
for making pickles, because so many have said 
it, that nothing but the best cider vinegar should 
be used. In spite of that, however, the great 
firms that put up goods for the trade find that 
the keeping quality is very uncertain of pickles 
put up in ihat Kind of vinegar, and they use a 
colorless vinegar that is made by distillation and 
other processes from corn and barley, the same 
as alcohol is. As it leaves the apparatus where 
it is made this vinegar is strong enough to dis- 
solve many substances, and it has to be reduced 
considerably. As all true vinegar is the result 
of alcoholic fermentation, which changes to 
acetic fermentation, the probabilities are that this 
highwine vinegar is as wholesome as vinegar of 



any other sort There is, however, a spurious 
vinegar, which is no better than a slow poison, 
which is cheaply made and sold cheap, being 
nothing but a mixture of sulphuric acid with 
water. Such "vinegar" will "eat up" the pickles 
made with it 

Cider vinegar is the best, with the allowance 
made for its uncertainty mentioned above. Any 
kind of wine will cha,nge to vinegar in the course 
of time it left with the bung out of the barrel so 
that the air can reach it. 

A cheap vinegar is made at the factories by 
letting fermented liquor, such as sugar and 
water, trickle slowly through a cage of wood 
shavhigs two or three stories high. The expos- 
ure to the atmosphere changes the vinous fer- 
mentation to acetic quickly. By the following 
method the change requires about six months 
before strong vinegar is made. The vinegar thus 
produced is good for most household purposes. 

IIT— Home-Made Vinegar. 

14 pounds of the coarsest brown sugar. 

10 gallons of water. 

1 cupful of brewers' yeast or bakers' stock. 

Boil the sugar with three pailfuls of the water 
and skim while boiling. Take it off the tire and 
pour in a pailful of cold water. Strain it into a 
ten-gallon keg and put in some small pieces of 
toast spread with the yeast, or a hop yeast cake 
will do. Stir every day -for a week, then tack 
a piece of gauze over the bunghole, set the keg 
where the sun will shine on it, and let it remain 
six months, by which time, if made inithe spring 
of the year, it will be good vinegar. It shortens 
the time of standing if a vinegar plant or 
"mother" from a former keg of vinegar can be 
had to put in it 



Bay leaf for flavoring is among soups and 
meats what vanilla is among sweets. Skillfully 
used it gives that flavor of French cookery that 
is recognized as something different from tlie 
ordinary home-made article, even by those who 
cannot tell wherein the difference consists. Of 
course there are many others, just as there are 
other flavors for ice cream besides vanilla; we 
speak of its relative importance to advise a par- 
ticular discretion in its use. One large bay leaf 
will flavor two gallons of soup, and only a small 
piece is wanted in soup for a family dinner. 



118— Consomme Royal. 

We have no word in English for consomme 
but broth, and that is not an equivalent, but only 
a substitute. French cooks understand by con- 
somme a clear soup as rich as melted jelly. 
Consomme royal is of the color of brandy, with 
little egg custards floating in it. 

Simmer a large fowl and two or more shanks 
of veal in a gallon of water for three or four 
hours, and while it is cooking add the vegetables 
and seasonings. These should be the usual 



32 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



soup bunch (without parsuipa or green onion 
tops, however), together with a stalk of celery, 
half a bay leaf, a teaspoonf ul of bruised pepper- 
corns and a sprig of green thyme or marjoram. 
When it has boiled long enough strain the 
broth into a saucepan. 



Chop a pound of lean beef fine, mix with it two 
whites of eggs and a cup of cold water. Then 
pour the broth to the beef, stir up and boil again. 
Strain through a napkin or jelly bag, season 
with salt, color with a teaspoonful of dissolved 
burnt sugar and remove every particle of 
grease. 

To make the floating custards take three or 
four yolks of eggs, raw, and mix with them a 
spoonful of the consomme. Pour into a slightly 
buttered saucer and steam it until done — 10 min- 
utes. Cut the custard in diamond shapes and 
drop three or four in each soup plate. 



Where it is not necessary to be extremely par- 
ticular good clear soup can be obtained by 
letting the soup-stock get cold in a jar and 
after taking off the fat, pom-ing it off without 
disturbing the sediment Strain through a nap- 
kin, make hot and add the spoonful of coloring, 
and salt as before. 



119— sliced Tomatoes. 

Should have pieces of ice scattered on top in 
the dishes. Salad dressing and oil should be 
ready on the table. 



130— Broiled Shad— Maitre d'Hotel. 

It looks best if placed on the dish in one piece, 
split open down the back. It may be necessary 
in most places, however, to divide it before 
cooking. 

Scale the fish ; out off the fins, head and tail ; 
split it down the back and take out the back- 
bone. Wash, and dry it on a cloth. Brush over 
slightly with butter or bacon fat, and broil it in 
the wire toaster. It will take about ten minutes, 
or fifteen if a large one. It should be moistened 
with a touch of the butter brush while cooking, 
to prevent blistering and sticking to the wires. 
Sprinkle with salt. Dish on a hot platter, or in- 
dividually in pieces on small fish-plates, with a 
slice of cold maitre d'hotel butter on the top of 
each and a spoonful of French fried potatoes. 



131— Maitre d'Hotel Butter or Cold Sauce. 

4 ounces of fresh butter. 

1 lemon — juice only. 

1 tablespooiiful of chopped parsley. 

A pinch of cayenne pepper. 

Soften the butter by warming it a little. In 
that condition it will absorb liquids added grad- 
ually. Stir in the juice of the lemon, the pars- 
ley and cayenne. Set on ice. Serve slices on 
hot broiled or fried fish. 



133-Freiich Fried Potatoes. 

Cut raw potatoes in fluted strips with a Saba tier 
scollop knife and try them light-colored in hot 
lard. 



133— Roast Ham and Spinach. 

The thick end of a ham sawed across at the 
bone where the choice slices end does well fur 
boiling and roasting. Scrape and shave off the 
outside, and, if convenient, steep the piece of 
ham in cold water some hours before cooking. 
Boil according to size — about a quarter of an 
hour for every pound. Take it out and remove 
the rind; bake about half an hour, or till richly 
browned Serve it thinly shoed on a bed of 
spinach in a dish. 

134^Boiled Spinach. 

This needs the least cooking of any kind of 
greens, and will boil away in the water if left on 
too long. Pick it over, wash and let lie in a pan 
of cold water. Then put it into water that is 
already boihng, with a pinch of soda or ammo- 
nia to keep it greeu, and boil about fifteen min- 
utes. Let it drain in a colander; season with 
salt, pepper, and butter or corned beef fat 



Spinach is also served with a poached egg on 
top, or the egg and spinach slightly chopped 
together; also with good cream sauce poured 
over, and in other ways; with boiled jowl and 
bacon. 



135— Parsnip Fritters. 

1 cupful of dry mashed parsnip. 
1 ounce of butter — guinea egg size. 
1 ounce of flour — large tablespoonfuL 
legg. 

1 teaspoonful of mixed salt and pepper. 
Stir all together. Drop spoonfuls in a frying 
pan of hot lard or drippings and fry browa 



136— Baked Celery with Clieese -Italian. 

A way of using the outside stalks of celery to 
make a dish that finds many admirers at hotel 
tables. 

3 cupf uls of celery out small. 

)4 cupful of grated cheese. 

1^ cupful of butter or poultry fat 

}^ cupful of gravy. 

Little pepper and salt 

The celery should be in pieces about an inch 
long and split to look like macaroni. Boil ten 
minutes iu water. Drain, mix in the cheese and 
butter and pepper and little salt and bake it in a 
pan. Baste over the top wiih spoonfuls of meat 
gravy. Serve like a vegetable in tureen or indi- 
vidual dishes. 



137-BIrd's-Nest Pudding 

No doubt derives its name from its appearance 
when baked in a small pudding dish and set on 
the table whole. The batter rises round the 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



33 



edges and the apples might be supposed to re- 
semble eggs. 
y large tablespoonfula of flour. 

1 pint of miKc — 2 cupfuis. 
Butter size of an egg. 

2 tablespoonf uls of sugar. 
2 eggs. 

Pinch of salt 

Nutmeg or cinnamon. 

Apples enough for a two-quart pan. 

Pare and core the apples, put them in the pan 
whole, shake a spoonful of sugar over them and 
half the butter and grate nutmeg. Add water 
enough to wet the bottom of the pan, then bake 
with a sheet of paper over the pan till the apples 
are done, basting with the syrup occasionally. 

Then mis the flour, milt and eggs to a smooth 
batter, melt the butter and beat it in and the 
sugar. 

Pour the batter over the apples and bake about 
half an hour. 



128— Cream Pudding: Sauce. 

1 cupful of thin cream. 

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

1 large teaspoonful of corn starch. 

Same of butter. 

Flavoring of broken nutmeg. 

Boil the cream with the nutmeg (or stick oin 
namon) in it and half the sugar, which prevents 
burning. Mix the starch in the remaining sugar 
dry, stir into the boiling cream and take off when 
it thickens. Beat in the bit of butter and strain 
for use. 



139— Rich. Lemon Pie. 

7 ounces of sugar — a cupful. 

3 lemons. 

1 cupful of rich eream. 

6 yolks of eggs and 2 whites. 

Place the sugar in a bowl and grate the lemon 
rinds into it with a tin grater, and then squeeze 
in the juice. Beat the yolks of eggs light and 
mix the cream with them ; pour this to the lemon 
and sugar, and just before filling the pie crusts 
with the mixture whip the two whites to a froth 
and stir them in. 

Use pufli-paste (No. 53), to hne the pie pans. 
The mixture will fill two pies, or three if small. 
It is hard to bake without browning the top too 
much, so should be under the shelf of the oven. 
These rich pies do not need frosting, only a 
dredging of powdered sugar. 



smooth cooked paste. Then take it off and beat 
in the eggs, one at a time. Drop small spoonfuls 
of the paste on baking pans very slightly greased, 
alloAving an inch or more of space between them, 
and bake in a moderate oven about twenty min- 
utes. Cut a slit in the side and fill the puffs with 
pastry cream (No. 54). This makes about twenty 
putts. The pastry cream of the receipt will fill 
them, and enough will be left over to spread be- 
tween two layers of cake or bake in a pie. 



The difficult part in makmg cream puffs is 
the baking in the uneven heat of a stove or rantre. 
They are nothing if they do not rise round and 
hollow, and the stove must be slacked down to 
suit. 

The more the paste is beaten against the side 
of the pan, as the eggs are added and after, the 
more the puffs will expand in baking. 

The puffs will not rise at all if the paste be al- 
lowed to get cold before the eggs are beaten 
into it. 

The handsomest puffs are those baked done 
without the oven door ever being opened in the 
meantime. 



MENU NO. XII.— DINNER. 



130— Boston Cream Putt's. 

J^ pint of water — ooffee-cuoful. 
4 ounces scant of lard or butter. 

4 ounces of flour — good weight 

5 eggs. 
Pinch of salt. 

Boil the water with the lard and salt in it. Put 
in the flour all at once, and stir the mixture over 
the Are about Ave minutes, or till it becomes a 



131— Consomme Sevigrne. 

This is to be a deep brown consomme of high 
flavor, with a shape or two of bread fried in 
clear butter floating in each plate. 

Roast a fowl and a shank or two of veal in a 
bright tin baking pan, together, having a little 
salt, some water, one onion and a spoonful of 
butter or other fat in the pan. The object is to 
get a nice brown color as well as flavor to impart 
to the soup. Veal makes the best color, both of 
gravy and soup, of any kind of 
meat The gravy, technically called glaze, 
that will adhere to the pan when the meat is 
brown is soluble when salt is cooked in it from 
the first. After the meats are browned put them 
on to boil in a gallon of water and simmer about 
four hours. Boil a little of the liquor in tlie 
meat pan and when the brown glaze is dissolved 
add that to the stock. Throw in also a little 
bunch of soup vegetables, some parsley, half a 
bay leaf and four cloves, and a few broken pep- 
per-corns. When the stock has boiled long 
enough strain it, remove the grease, clarify by 
boiling a little choppedraw beef and two whites of 
eggs in it and strain again. A slice of good bread 
for each plate should be cut out with a biscuit; 
cutter, then fried light brown in the clear oil of 
melted butter. One at a lime can be fried in the 
smallest deep saucepan, as they only take a 
minute, and but little butter will be required. 
Drain them on paper before putting them on the 
plates. 

The reader of these recipes has now had three 
or four examples of the ways of making the 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



bright and clear consommea that are served at 
fashionable dinners; the one above made brown 
with roast meat; that last week, a simpler sort, 
artiflcialiy colored; a plainer vegetable broth be- 
fore that, and the simple, unflavored bouillon at 
the beginning. These examples are enough for a 
complete cook book, taken with the various thick 
soups not yet mentioned. 

Consomme au riz has whole grains of cooked 
rice in it. A spoonful of rice must be boiled in 
plenty of water for about twenty minutes, then 
the water strained away, the rice rinsed clear and 
put into the consomme. The grains can hardly 
sink in it, and look quite ornamental. 

Consomme aux pates d'ltahe has the little 
alphabet macaroni pastes that are sold at the 
grocer's treated as directed for rice, but not 
cooked BO much. Then there is consomme with 
whole green peas, with pearl tapioca — previously 
soaked in teped water — with vermicelli and other 
similar additions. There is a harmless trick of 
the trade resorted to sometimes to give density 
enough so that the things added will seem to 
swim about in the consomme instead of sinking, 
and that is to add a teaspoonful of, corn starch, 
which does not injure its clearness. 



X3S— Boiled Ked Snapper— Shrimp Sauce. 

There should be a proper fish kettle for boiling 
a fish whole, having a perforated false bottom or 
drainer, that can be lifted out witli the fish upon 
it when done. Where there is no such article 
the best substitute is a common milk pan of large 
size. Cover it with another pan that the fish 
may get steamed if not quite covered. 

Choose a small fish, scale it, draw, chop off the 
fins, wash and wipe it dry on a cloth. 

Halt fill the pan with water and put in a little 
salt, vinegar, a small onion and four cloves stuck 
in it and half a bay leaf. When it boils jrat in 
the fish and simmer it at the side of the range 
about half an hour. Then pour o£E the water, 
take the skin off the upper side, slide the fish on 
to its dish, if to be served whole, and pour over 
it some shrimp sauce. Butif served individually 
it may be divided with a fish slice in the pan and 
sauce poured over in the plates. Small and ten- 
der fish, like fresh mackerel, are best rolled up 
in a pudding-cioth and boiled in plain salted 
water, then carefully unrolled onto the dish. 



133— Shrimp Sauce. 

1 pint of clear broth or water. 

Butter size of an egg. 

1 tablespoonful of flour — rather large. 

Yolk of 1 egg. 

Salt and pepper. 

1 can of Barataria shrimps. 

Stir the flour and most of the butter together 
over the fire, When they bubble begin adding 
the hot broth or water, and stir it till cooked 



and thick — about two minutes longer. Then 
drop in the egg-yolk and beat, and next the re- 
maining small piece of butter and teat till it is 
melted. Season slightly and put in the shrimps. 
They are already cooked. 



134— l>ucliesse Potatoes. 

Usually served with fish, on the same plate. 
They are little cakes of mashed potatoes. Take 
four steamed potatoes and mash them with an 
ounce of butter, the yolk of an egg and salt. 
Spread on a pie plate, brush over with the yolk 
of an egg mixed with a spoonful of milk, cut in 
pieces of any shape, take up the pieces with a 
knife point, place them on a greased baking 
pan and bake a nice color on top. 



135— Koast lianil). 

Briefly, the piece of lamb should be dusted 
with flour, and roasted just done. 

But meat cutting is quite an art. Very few 
women cooks understand it. As it makes meat 
"go further" at the carving table to have it cut up 
properly before cooking, it inay easily be the case 
that the low-priced cook costs theemployermore 
than the really skillful one at twice the wages. 

In dividing a side of lamb get the ribs ana loin 
as long and as well covered with moat as pos- 
sible by catting olf the shoulder with the knife 
close up to the blade bone. People who choose 
almost invariably want the ribs — the same cut 
that makes chops — and next to that for choice is 
the loin, which should be well cut downiuto the 
leg 

vVith the point of the kitchen cleaver hack 
through the backbone at one or two ribs apart, 
and the same along the brisket, and chop the 
ribs once across the breast, and all without di- 
viding the meat more tlian can be helped. 

Chop off the shanks and end of neck, wash and 
put them in the stock boiler. 

Put a little salt in tho baking pan, the fat from 
the lamb, and a very little water; malieithot; 
dip the meat in flour on both sides and lay it in 
the hot pan. Keep only enough water in to pre- 
vent burning the bottom of the pan. A little 
drippings may be needed for bastintr. The ribs 
and shoulder should be done in twenty minutes, 
the leg in half an hoar. 

There will not be any real grav.y in the pan 
worth speaking of by this method, the juices all 
being retained in the meat; but if you can afford 
it put a spoonful of fresh butter in during the 
last few minutes and baste the joint with it; it 
gives a richer brown to the outside, and makes a 
good pan gravy when water is added. 



Sauce for Roast Hamb. 



The preceding directions having been followed 
and the baking-pan brown already with flour 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



35 



and butter, and not burnt, pour off all the clear 
fat, and instead of water add a cup of milk. Let 
cook in the pan a few minutes, then strain it and 
add a sprinkling of chopped parsley, and juice of 
half a lemon. The parsley shotild be added only 
when the sauce is to be sent in, as it loses color 
by standing. 

137— Mint Sauce for Koast Lamb. 

The conventional lamb eauce. No other sauce 
or gravy is needed when this is used : 

3 tablespooufuls of green mint. 

1 tablespoouful of sugar. 

)4 cupful of vinegar. 

Pick the leaves of mint from the stems, wash 
and chop tine, and mix with the sugar and vine- 
gar in a bowl. Serve cold, a spoonful to each 



138— New Green Peas. 

Nothing comes to market that is so uncertain 
in quality and so likely to prove vexatious iu the 
cookmg as green peas. They may cook one day 
in fifteen minutes and would break and dissolve 
in the water if kept on longer, and the next may 
still be hard and unsatisfactory at the end of two 
hours' boiliu','. It depends mostly upon how 
young or nearly ripe they are, and partly upon 
the kind of pea. The worst for the cook are the 
mixed lots, that part boil away in the water and 
the rest remain like beans. Canned peas of good 
brands are preferable to what the market gar- 
deners generally offer. 

To cook peas green in color when done, it is 
necessary to drop them into ivater that is already 
boiling and has a little salt and a pinch of either 
soda or carbonate of ammonia in it. The ammo- 
nia evaporates during the boiling. A piece the 
size of a pea will do, of either. When the peas 
are done, drain the water from them 

Green peas are said to be dressed a I'Anglaise 
when they have only a little butter and salt and 
spoonful of water shaken about in them. They 
are a la Francaise when they have cream sauce 
mixed ia 



139— Broivned Potatoes. 

Pare the potatoes and steam them, and the 
broken ones being used to mash, or a la 
duchesse, put the others in a small pan with 
some of the drippings from the roast lamb pan 
and a dredging of salt and bake them brown. 
Cold boiled or baked potatoes are not lit for this 
purpose — they can be used better for breakfast 
dishes. 

140— Bread Custard l*udding. 

a cupf uls — pressed in— of fine bread crumbs. 
2 oupfuls of milk. 
1 ounce of butter — small egg size. 
1 tablespoouful of si(gar. 
3^ a lemon. 

S yolks, or 1 whole egg. 

Crumble the bread fine either by chopping or 
grating; grate half the rind of a lemon into it 



and squeeze a little of the juice into the sugar. 
Mix the milk with the yolks and sugar; 
melt the butter and mix in and pour the mixture 
over the bread crumbs in a buttered pudding- 
pan or bowl and halve about twenty-five minutes. 
Various changes can be made by adding raisins, 
currants or citron to this pudding. The fruit 
must be sprinkled in after the pudding is in tbe 
baking pan. It will sink if stirred. Serve a 
sauce with the pudding. 



Calves' heads ought not to be thrown away, as 
they are in the country, for want of knowledge of 
an easy way of cleaning them. They are com- 
paratively worthless when the skin is removed 
(which is the gelatinous portion that makes 
calf's-head soup, almost as good as turtle), and 
yet that is the way they are generally served if 
saved at all. 

141. 

To remove the hair drop the head and 
feet into a tub of hot water that has had 
a shovelful of wood ashes boiled in it, or a 
few crumbs of concentrated l;fe, or washing soda. 
The water must not be quite boiling hot, as that 
will set the hair and make cleaning difficult. 
Churn them about with a stick of wood a few 
minutes, then scrape with a sharp knife. Koast 
the hoofs in hot coala and pry them off with a 
knife point. A nicely cleaned head and feet 
bring $1 or $1,150 in market. 



143— Calf s Head Soup. 

Mock turtle soup is made of calf's head, but 
it is quite an elaborate and tedious affair to make 
it right We will have mock turtle next week. 
This is much more simple. 

14 a head and 2 feet 

3 quarts of waier or stock. 

Small slice of fried ham. 

.},{ a bayleaf, 3 cloves, fragment of mace. 

A soup bunch with parsley and cives. 

Salt, pepper and thickening. 

1 hard-boiled yolk of egg. 

J^ a lemon. 

As these seem a good many things for a 
simple soup, let us analyze: The head gives the 
richness of jelly, but it is insipid; the scrap of 
ham, the spices, herbs and vegetables give the 
necessary flavor. The most of tbe meat is to be 
saved for the entree, the rest goes back iu the 
soup after it has been strained, seasoned and 
thickened. Then chop the hard-boiled yolk and 
sprinkle it in, and the half lemon cut in small 
pieces. Or, to state it in order : 

Saw the calf's head in two: save the brain and 
tongue, steep the half head you are going to use 
in cold water. Put it and the feet on in cold 
water or stock and simmer about two hours with 
the vegetables and spices, then strain off, season 
and thicken with a little flour. Cut the beat part 
of the head into oblong pieces and reserve them, 
and take what is left to chop coarsely — or cut in 



36 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



dice — and put it in the soup with the egg and 
lemon and a little minced parsley. 



143— Cucumber Salail. 

Slice the cucumbers two hours before they are 
■wanted and sprinkle the slices plentifully with 
salt. , Set the dish in the refrigerator. Just be- 
fore dinner drain away the salt liquor from the 
cucumbers and mix them with oil first, and then 
with vinegar and pepper. Serve on a very cold 
dish. 



144— Broiled Salmon Steak vpitli New Potatoes. 

One of the greatest luxuries that can be pro- 
vided for a fine breakfast or dinner, not only for 
ts high price but because the salmon is calle d 
the king of fishes. 

Slice the fish with a sharp knife and sever the 
bone in tlie center by striking the point of the 
knife with a hammer — not to break or tear the 
meat Lay the steaks in a bright tin pan or dish, 
dredge with pepper and salt, brush them over 
with olive oil, if you can, or with clear melted 
butter and let them lie till wanted. Then broil 
in the hinged wire broiler same as beefsteaks, 
about ten mmutes. Dish up on a large platter 
hot. Have some new potatoes ready boiled, cut 
them in quarters lengthwise and place them as a 
border around the steak. Shake a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley over the salmon steak, melt 
a piece of fresh butter in an omelet pan and 
pour it hot over it, squeeze the juice of a half a 
lemon over that. Place three or four green tufts 
of parsley among the potatoes in the border and 
send it in. 



Instead of having the rib bones taken out and 
the thin flap of meat coiled around the roast ; 
have the roast shortened by sawing off the ends. 
These with the bones in, about two inches in 
length, make a very popular dish if cooked 
tender. 

Bake them in a deep baking pan with water 
and drippings and a good allowance of salt for 
two or three hours. 

Manage it so that the meat will be stewing in 
the water and gravy three-fourths of the time, 
and dry out and brown in the hot glaze on the 
bottom at last. Use a greased paper to lay on 
the top of the meat to keep it moist during the 
first hour. Roll the pieces over and over in the 
glaze during the last five minutes, to make them 
shining brown with it. Pour off the fat after the 
meat is removed and make gravy iu the pan. 



146— Yorkshire Puddin:?. 

Originally it was baked in front of the fire 
under the meat roasting on the spit, the gravy 



dripping upon it The Yorkshire pudding that 
is baked in a range is good enough, however. 

1 cupful of flour — sifted, heaping. 

1 pint of watei- — 3 cupfuls. 

3 eggs. 

1 tablespoonful of drippings, melted. 

Salt and baking powder, very little. 

Mix the flour and water (or milk) together 
gradually by stirring in the middle. When it is 
free from lumps add the melted drippings or but- 
ter, salt, and the eggs well beaten. Bake in a 
shallow pan, half an inch deep, about twenty 
minutes. Cut it iu squares and serve it with the 
piece of meat on top, in a hot dish, and the meat 
gravy separately. 

The batter, as above made, is excellent for 
sweet puddings, with a spoonful of golden syrup 
added and the whites of the eggs whipped light. 
Strew raisins iu tlie batter iu the pan before put- 
ting it iu the oven, or quartered apples partly 
cooked in syrup first 

147-Calf's Head Bieatled. 

Take the shapely pieces that have been re- 
served from the souu-making, pepper and salt 
them, then roll in beaten egg with a little water 
added, and then in cracker meal, and fry them 
quickly brown in hot drippings or lard. 

Serve with tomato sauce. 



148— Stewed Oyster Plant or Salsify. 

Scrape the roots white, wash and cut them in 
inch lengths. Boil in salted water till tender. 
They should be tried with a fork, as the time re- 
quired varies. Generally, salsify takes about an 
hour to cook. Then drain away the water and 
put in some cream sauce, or milk, butter, salt and 
thickening. 



149— Lemon <^ream Pie. 

We have had already two lemon pies, a com- 
mon and a rich kind This cream pie may be 
made in a crust that is already baked, if pre- 
ferred, or baked together like the others. 

I. Line the plates with pie paste and bake of 
a light color. 

Make the pastry cream (No. 54), and when it is 
cold whip a cupful of thick cream in a whip- 
churn to a iirm froth and mix part of it in. Use 
the remaining whipped cream, sweetened and 
flavored, to spread over the top after filling the 
crusts. These pies, of course, do not need 
baking. 

n. Make a special cream filling this way : 

1 pint of milk. 

4 ounces of sugar. 

2 ounces of flour — 2 heaping tablespooufuls. 
1 tablespoonful of butter. 

4 esge. 

}y£ a lemon, or lemon extract 

Boil the milk. Mix the sugar, the grated 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



37 



lemon rind, and flour together dry and stir 
them into the boiling milk ivith a wire whisk. 

Add the butter and juice of the lemon and 
then the yolka of the eggs well beaten, but take 
from the fire before they cook. Line pie pans 
with puff paste or tart paste. Pour in the cream 
and bake in a alack oven. When done meringue 
over as directed at No. 103. 

Variations of these kinds are made by first 
spreading fruit jelly or marmalade in the crusts 
and the lemon cream on that, and by making 
deep patty pan sizes, finished in the same way. 



150— Strawberry Meringue. 

Bake a sheet of sponge cake on a jelly cake 
pan, take it off warm and gently press it, top side 
down, into a dinner place to shape it hollow. 
Mix half a cup of sugar with two cups of straw- 
berries by shaking about in a bowl, and spread 
them on the cake. Whip the whites of three 
eggs firm, mix in two tablespoouf ills of sugar, 
spread the meringue over the berries and bake 
with the oven door open about five minutes, or 
until it is lightly colored. A piece of board 
hould be placed under the plate to keep it froms 
getting too hot in the oven, as it is not intended 
to bake anything but the top covering. Serve 
cold. 



151— Spouse Cake. 

14 ounces of granulated sugar. 

12 eggs. 

13 ounces of flour. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together with a stout 
wire egg whisk for half an hour. Then cut in 
the flour. The goodness of the cake depends al- 
together upon the beating, and for that to be 
effectual the ingredients must be cold. The eggs 
need not be separated, the whites from the yolks. 
The best vessel for the beating is a bell-metal 
kettle, but a deep pan or tin pail will do. After 
the flour is in and just stirred enough to be 
fairly out of sight it is finished, and should not 
be beaten more. Baiie as soon as possible. 

It may incerest some reaaers to know that at 
the great baiseries wnere almost everything else 
is done by machinery, the sponge cake, one of 
the most important articles in the trade, is still 
made by hand as above described. 



153— Small Sponare Cakes. 

Brush inside some small sponge cake pans, or 
gem or muffin pans, with a touch of melted lard, 
and sift flour in them. Shake out, and half fill 
them with the sponge cake batter. Sift powdered 
sugar over the tops — the pans being set on a 
paper — and bake the cakes in a slack oven till of 
a light brown color. 



153— Neiv York Ice Cream. 

1 quart of thin cream. 

12 ounces of sugar. 

12 yolks of eggs. 

Vanilla bean or extract to flavor. 

Boil the cream with the sugar and a vanilla 
bean in it Beat the yolka light and pour the 
boilmg cream to them. Set on the fire again for 
a minute. This yellow custard will not become 
frothy, rich and light in the freezer if cooked 
much, but should be taken off and strained as 
soon as slightly thickened. Set the freezer con- 
taining it in its tub and pack with ice pounded 
fine and mixed with one-fifth as much coarse 
salt, Tui'n the freezer, and when the contents is 
nearly frozen, if a common freezer ia used, take 
off the lid and beat up the cream with paddle or 
spoon. 

154— Cocoanut Candy Drops. 

1 pound of granulated sugar. 

8 ounces of grated cocoanut 

One-third cupful of water. 

Set the sugar and water over the fire in a small, 
bright kettle and boil about five minutes, or till 
the ayrup bubbles up and ropes from the spoon, 
and do not stir it. Then put in the cocoanut, 
stir to mix, and begin at once and drop the cand3' 
by tablespoonfuls on a buttered baking pan. 
The dry dessicated cocoanut ia the eaaier kind to 
work with. With the moist, fresh grated more 
time should be given for the augar to boil to the 
candy point. 



MENU NO. XIV.— DINNER. 



155— Mock Turtle Soup. 

1 gallon of soup stock or water. 

}4 a calf's head, 2 feet and tongue. 

Soup bunch of vegetables and aweet herbs. 

Flour browned with butter, for thickenin.g. 

1 lemon. Some spices. Bay leaf. 

A glass of sherry. Cayenne. Salt. 

Egg balls and meat balls. 

Simmer the meats in the stock about two 
hours, along with the soup bunch and thyme, 
savory and parsley, and half a bay leaf and four 
cloves. 

While this ia boiling put into a frying pan a 
small, thin slice of ham and butter the size of an 
egg. Fry the ham on both sides, put in with it 
two tablespoonfuls of flour and set the pan in 
the oven for the flour to brown nicely in the 
butter without getting black. Then take the 
calf's head out of the soup and stir the browned 
flour and ham into it. Let cook a while to 
thicken. After that pass the soup, which should 
be like thin gravy, through a strainer into a- 
clean saucepan, and when it boils skim it. Mix 



3$ 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



the juice of halt' the lemon in a little cold water, 
pour it in and skim ^vheu it boils up again. This 
makes the soup bright. Season with salt and 
cayenne. Cut some scraps of the head m neat 
dice and throw them in, then the quenelles, the 
remaining lemon sliced thin, and the glass of 
sherry. 



a hard boiled yolks of eggs. 

X as much hot boiled potato. 

1 teaspoonf ul of chopped parsley. 

Cayenne and salt. 

1 raw yolk. 

Mash all together. Make up in balls size of 
cherries, with flour on the hands. Poach them a 
minute or two in a frying pan of boiling water. 
Take up on a skimmer and drop them into the 
soup. 



3^ a calf's tongue, cooked, or some cold veal. 

1^ the weight of fine bread crumbs, 

a or 3 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 

Seasoning of sweet herbs, and nutmeg. 

Pepper and salt. 

1 raw egg. 

Mince the meat small, add the other in- 
gredients, and pound them all together. Make 
up in little balls, with flour on the hands. 
Poach them in boiling water and put them in the 
soup. 

The above two mixtures can be used as cro- 
quettes, made into shapes, and fried; and are 
good to place as ornamental accessories in the 
sauces to fish and meats. 



158— Small Patties au Salpicun. 

These little trifles that are often served be- 
twixt the soup and the fish are made in a dozen 
different shapes and filled with as many different 
preparations. The word salpicon means a mince 
like sausage meat, highly seasoned, and may be 
made like the forcemeat balls preceding of 
cooked meat as well as raw, with chicken minced 
as if for croquettes, and the like. 

Make the puff-paste No. .53, and roll out thin 
as the edge of a plate; cut out with a biscuit 
cutter. Wet one flat with a brush dipped in 
water, place a teaspoonful of extra high-seasoned 
sausage meat in the center and cover with an- 
other of the flats. Press the edges together 
lightly all around and bake about twenty min- 
utes. 

159— Baked Whitefish, Tartar Sauce. 

Split the fish, after cleaning, down the back 
and take out the backbone. Put some good, 
clear drippings to get hot in a baking pan. Wipe 



the fish, dip it in beaten egg, theu dip it in flour 
and then in egg again; lay it in the pan of hot 
fat and bake it carefully at a moderate heat — 
perhaps with the oven door open — for about 
twenty minutes. Baste the exposed surface with 
the fat. Fish look? extremely rich cooked this 
way, yellow-brown and semi-transparent, if not 
allowed to get too hot while baking; yet the fat 
must be hissing hot when the fish is put in. 
Serve cold tartar sauce in a boat separately. 
Garnish the fish with fried parsley. 

160— Tartar Sauce, Cold. 

Make the mayonaise sauce. No. 68, and add to 
it a little finely-minced onion and green gherkin. 



161— I>aupliine Potatoes. 

Served with fish, in the same plate. Press 
mashed potatoes through a sieve; mix the yolk 
of au egg in it; drop a few tablespoonfuls on 
a baking pan, in shapes like little drop-cakes, 
and bake them a light color. 



163— Koast Beef. 

"Cooks are born, not made; but it requires 
genius to roast" — the aphorism of a noted French 
gourmand, so often quoted, let us repeat once 
again. It may not bear to be construed literally, 
but it expresses the idea of relative importance. 
Was it not really a genuine expression of impa- 
tience at the dullness of apprehension of the 
good man's own cook, who, likely enough, would 
keep sticking the fork into the meat and letting 
out all the juices? 

. To roast or bake meat so that, however small 
the piece may be, it will be found fuU of gravy 
when cut, it is necessary to have the pan it is 
baked in hot before the meat goes in, and 
although there must be liquor in tlie pan while 
it is baking, that should be added after the meat 
has become hot enough outside for the pores to 
be closed and the juices retained inside. 

The choice roasting piece of beef is the ribs 
between the edge of the shoulder-blade and the 
loin — the short ribs. As the butchers have to 
sell everything, as a matter of business, they 
take out the ribs and coil the thin meat of the 
breast around the choice upper portion, and 
make a neat cushion-shaped roast, secured with 
twine and skewers. In the places where the 
highest prices are paid, however, the breast por- 
tion has to be cut away altogether and cooked 
separately, as in our example last week, and the 
choice upper portion or entee-cote only is roasted. 
This is nearly always cooked rare done, and the 
plentiful gravy that flows from it when cut 
is caught in a dish and is the only gravy 
served with it. As to time, the old rule is the 
only one : Allow a quarter of an hour for each 
pound of meat, and less, according to judgment, 
when the roast is of thin shape or required to be 
very rare done. 



Chicago HERALt) cooking School. 



39 



When a made gravy is required to go with the 
beef, the bones and trimmings of the ruast should 
be put ia the pan with it, a little salt, a slice of 
carrot and turnip, and a little hot water, and 
when the meat is done and the water all dried 
out, pour off the grease, add some broth or water 
to the glaze on the bottom of tue pan, and when 
it is dissolved by boiling tnielien it slightly with 
flour and strain it. This is called sauce brune ; 
but when made richer by the use of large quan- 
tities of meat, and highly flavorad with spices 
and herbs, it is called espaguole by the cooks, 
who then subdivide it, and by adding different 
ingredients to different portions, make the host 
of sauces with unfamiliar names that lead 
off to the inextricable entanglements of French 
cookery. 

163— Browned Parsnips. 

There are two kinds of parsnips ; the hollow- 
crown or sugar parsnip is the best, and will take 
on a rich brown in the oven when the other kind 
comes out only dried and tasteless. Pare the 
parsnips, cut in pieces lengthwise and steam 
about an hour. Then bake in a hot oven, with a 
little salt and meat drippings. Drain by tipping 
up one end of the pan. 



164— String Beans. 

Snap them in two in the middle and pull off 
the strings. Boil in salted water about three- 
quarters of an hour. Drain the water away and 
put in the same seasonings as in green peas, 
either a little cream sauce or butter, salt and 
pepper. 

165— Croquettes of Calves' Brains. 

1 set of brains — about }4 pound. 

1 cupful, loose measure, of bread crumbs. 

1 ounce of butter. 

]4 an egg— or the yolk. 

1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 

1 teaapoouf ul of mixed salt and pepper. 

Little lemon juice, or tablespoonful of vinegar. 

Slight gratmg of nutmeg. 

Simmer the brains in salted water for about 
twenty minutes, then put them in cold water and 
peel off the dark outside, cut them up and mash 
with the bread crumbs and all the other in- 
gredients. 

Make up in shapes with flour on the hands. 
Long rolled shapes like link sausages, with the 
ends cut off square, are best. These, if well 
coated with flour, can be fried in the wire 
basket in hot lard, of a nice yellow color, or may 
be rolled first in beaten egg and then in cracker 
meal and fried. Let them get well done. Serve 
with cream sauce, or with green peas dressed 
with butter. 



166 -Ci- 



' Bcchaini:!. 



2 rounded tablespoonfuls of flour. 

Butter size of an egg. 

1 cupful of boiling milk or cream. 

Salt 

Mis the flour with most of the butter in a little 
saucepan and let them get hot and bubbling over 
the fire with constant stirring, then add the milk 
a little at a time and stir it up smooth. When it 
is cooked thick beat in the remaining portion of 
butter. Strain if not quite smooth. 



This sauce is useful in fifty ways, for codfish 
in cream, chipped beef, vegetables, sauce for 
fresh boiled fish, etc., etc. As we suppose we 
are writing explanations for domestic cooks, as 
well as others, who should know how to cook for 
the wealthy who can choose the best, it may be 
stated that the elaborately prepared Bechamel, 
that is, the sauce originated by a cook of that 
name, is made of broth with all the vegetable 
seasonings in it boiled dow^n very strong and 
rich, then thickened as above shown with fiour 
and butter, and thick cream added at last. 
Plain people will hardly care for such niceties in 
small matters, yet when club men vaunt the ex- 
cellence of the club or restaurant table it must 
be a source of satisfaction to know whereof 
they boast; 



167— Cairs Head, Vinaisrette. 

Cut the calf's head that was reserved from the 
sotip-making into oblong pieces and turn off the 
rough ends and edges. Keep the pieces on a 
plate ready. Make the sauce of ; 

1 cupful of clear broth or stock. 

1 tablespoonful of butter. 

6 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 

I teaspoonf ul of corn starch. 

Salt and cayenne. 

1 pickled gherkin, chopped small. 

Boil and thicken slightly with the starch. It 
makes a clear acid sauce. Put in the pieces of 
calf's head and let them get warm through with- 
out boiling. Add the chopped pickle. Orna- 
ment the dish when served with quarters of 
hard-boiled eggs, or a little chopped egg sprinkled 
over. 

The same dish made without butter is also 
served cold, along with the side dishes of cucum- 
bers, cress, etc., like soused head or feet. 



168— Potatoes in Cream. 

Buy freshly dugpotatoes that can be scraped, if 
they can be had as well as tiie wilted ones that 
must be pared. Steam them till done, about 
half an hour, then put them in cream sauce made 
thin, and sprinkle in a little chopped parsley. 



40 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



169— Banana Fritters. 

Peel the bananaa, cut them in two across and 
steep the pieces in syrup of sugar and water. 
After they have lain iu syrup an hour or two 
dram them, roll well in flour, making a good 
coating stick and either fry in hot lard or bake 
and baste them till of a nice light brown color 
and crisp outside. Boil the syrup and strain it 
for sauce. 

no— Boiled Plum Pudding. 

]4 pound of white bread crumbs. 

4 ounces of sugar. 

4 ounces of chopped suet. 

4 ounces of raisins. 

4 ounces of currants. 

]4 coffeeoupful of milk. 

1 egg. 

1 teaspoonful of mixed ground spices— cinna- 
mon, nutmeg and mace. 

Little salt and a pinch of soda. 

Mix the dry articles together — the bread 
crumbs being grated or chopped quite fine — 
then wet with the milk and egg, with the pinch 
of salt and soda dissolved in them ; tie up in a 
pudding bag and boil four hours. 



171 -Brandy Sauce for Plum Pudding. 

]4 cupful of sugar. 

J^ cup of water. 

1 tablespoonful of butter. 

A slice of lemon. 

1 teaspoonful of whole spices — cloves, mace, 
cinnamon. 

A wineglaasful of brandy. Boil all, except the 
brandy, together for five minutes, then strain 
and add the brandy. 



Another half cup of water and a teaspoonful 
of corn starch mixed up in it may be added to 
the above. It will still be transparent and 
cheaper than the strong syrup sauce. 



173— Rhubarb Pie. 

Ehubarb should be peeled and cut in two-inch 
lengths, and cooked with only water enough to 
cover the bottom of the kettle, with half a pound 
of brown sugar to each pound spread over the 
top and the steam shut in. It burns easily, and 
should be cooked at the side of the range or set 
upon a brick till the sugar dissolves with the 
juice to form a syrup. 

Line the pie pans with puff paste, made not 
very rich, fill with the stewed rhubarb and place 
broad strips of paste, cut with a paste jagger 
across and bake ; or use the plain pie paste and 
bake with a top crust. Sift powdered sugar 
over. 



173— Chocolate Cream Tarts. 

This is pastry cream like the lemon cream pie 
filling with chocolate in it. 

1 pint of milk. 

4 ounces of sugar. 

3 ounces of flour 

1 ounce of chocolate — grated. 

1 ounce of butter. 

3 or 4 yolks of eggs. 

Boil the milk with the chocolate in it and a lit- 
tle sugar to nrevent burning on the bottom. Mix 
the flour with the rest of the sugar, dry, and beat 
them into the boiling milk. Then add the butter 
and the yolks well beaten and take the mixture 
immediately oS' the fire. The yolks should finish 
cooking in the tarts. Flavor with vanilla. Line 
deep gem pans with tart paste, fill with the choc- 
olate cream and bake in a slack oven. Whip the 
whites of eggs, add two -spoonfuls of sugar, 
meringue over the tops of the tarts and let them 
get slightly colored on top. 

The same cream may be made suitable to fill 
shells of pastry already baked, by letling it cook 
sufficiently on the range and mixing in some 
whipped cream when cold. 



174-Tutti Frutti Ice Cream. 

Make the frozen custard of the menu preced- 
ing and add to it a wineglassful of maraschino 
for flavor acd a teaspoonful or two of burnt su- 
gar coloring to give it a darker hue. Then cut a 
pound of French candied fruits in small pieces 
and mix in and freeze again. The tutti frutti 
may either be dished up out of the freezer by 
spoonfuls, or pressed into a brick-shaped mould. 
In the latter case, it should be prepared several 
hours before it is wanted, and the mould when 
filled should be packed in ice and salt and cov- 
ered down to remain two or three hours. 



175-Jel!y KoU. 

Make sponge cake mixture, spread it thinly on 
a sheet of manilla paper and bake it light colored, 
on a baking pan. Lay the sheet when done, 
cake downward on the table, brush the paper 
over with water and pull it oft the cake. Spread 
with jelly and roll up. 



MENU NO. XV.— DINNER. 



176-Mutton Stew with Vegetables. 

3 pounds of breast or neck of mutton. 
1 onion and a little of the green tops. 

4 potatoes. 

Piece of turnip, carrot and parsnip. 
Piece of pepper pod minced, parsley and salt. 
The meat for this first-class dish can be 
bought for 4 or 5 cents per pound, because so 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



41 



few know how good it is when stewed loog 
enough. Four hours before the meal chop the 
breast of mutton in pieces of even size, wash 
and put it on in a goocl sized saucepan with cold 
water enough to cover. When it boils skim it. 
Throw in the vegetables all but the potatoes, let 
stew, with the lid on, two hours, then add the 
potatoes, parsley, red pepper and salt, and sim- 
mer an hour longer. The vegetables should be 
cut in pieces ot even size, and other kinds can be 
added, such as celery and peas. Add more hot 
water if necessary, thicken with a spoonful of 
flour mixed with water. 



177— Buttermilk Biscuits. 

1 pound or quart of flour. 

2 cupfuls of buttermilk. 

1 rounded teaspoonful of soda. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 

Sift the soda into the flour dry, add salt, and 
mix with the buttermilk poured into a hollow in 
the middle. Care should be taken to keep the 
dough as soft as it is possible to roll it out 
Knead it only by pressing out with the flat hands. 
Let stand five minutes for the soda to be well 
dissolved in the dough, then knead again and 
cut out. 



178— Baked Klce and Milk Pnddinz. 

1 cupful of rice. 

1 cupful of sugar. 

6 cupfuls of milk. 

Cinnamon or nutmeg.. 

A pinch of salt 

Wash the rice in three or four waters, put it 
into a tin pudding pan, and the sugar, milk, salt 
and piece of stick cinnamon with it, all culd, and 
bake in a slow oven for three or four hours. It 
may be best to use only five cups of milk at first, 
and add the other if the time allows the pud 
ding to boil down dry enough. Cover with a 
sheet of greased paper to keep the top from 
scorching. 



MENU NO. XVI.— DINNER. 



179-Onion Soup. 

3 or 4 pounds of breast of mutton. 

1 cupful of minced onion. 

2 quarts of water. 
1 cupful of milk. 

Flour thickening : salt and pepper. 

Take a breast of mutton and two shoulder 
shanks, or any coarse piece beside, and four hours 
before dinner time put them on without chop- 
ping or cutting up, in three quarts of water. 
Put the lid on, and let stew for three hours. 

Then tal;e out all the meat, strain the broth, 
and add the minced onion, pepper and salt to 
taste, let cook some time longer, then thicken 



with a tablespoonful of flour mixed up with the 
milk, cold, and skim the fat off as it rises. 



180— Breast of Mutton, Fried or Boiled. 

The mutton having been cooked till tender, as 
directed in the preceding recipe, pull out all the 
bones and press the meat between two dishes. 
Set in a cold place. When cold, trim off rough 
edges; pepper and salt it; then either dip both 
sides in flour and fry it nicely brown (in the fat 
ekimmed off the soup) or broil or bake it brown 
without flour, and baste with a little fat while it 
is cooking. 



181— Mashed Kuta-Ra£as. 

Pare one large ruta-baga turnip, cut it in thin 
slices, and steam about an hour over the same 
kettle the breast of mutton is boiled in. Mash 
smooth when done, and season with salt and pep- 
per, and add milk, if available. 



183- I.ettuce Salad, 

2 heads of lettuee. 

1 hard-boiled egg. 

}4 cup ot vinegar. 

Salt and pepper. 

Chop the lettuce the last thing before dinner — 
that it may not have time to wilt and turn dark 
— and chop the white and yolk qf the egg sepa- 
rately. Mix lettuce, vinegar, salt'and pepper, and 
chopped white of egg together in a bowl, and 
sprinkle the minced yolk on top. 



183-BoiIed Corn Meal Puddinsr. 

2 level cupfuls of white corn meal. 

3 cupfuls of water. 

1 cupful of minced suet. 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
1 egg. Salt 

Lemon or orange zest, or ground ginger. 

Boil the water with the sugar in it, sprinkle in 
the meal as in making mush, and stir it over the 
fire for five minutes, mix in the suet, salt, beaten 
egg, and grated riud or ginger. Wet and flour a 
pudding cloth, place it in a bowl, pour in the 
mixture, tie loose enough for it to swell nearly 
double its bulk, and boil it five hours. Serve 
with sauce or syrup. 



184— Plain Puddins Sauce. 

1 cupful of hot water. 

1 cupful of brown sugar. 

1 tablespoonful of flour. 

Little butter. 

Stir the sugar and flour together dry, pour the 
water to them, add butter, and keep stirring 
over the fire till it boils. 



42 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



185— Cominon Ginsrerbread. 

12 ounces of black molasses— a coffee cupful 
4 ounces of butter or lard— a small cupful. 

1 tablespoonful of ground ginger. 

1 small teaspoouful of soda. 

1 pound or quart of flour. 

1 cnpful of hot water. 

Salt when lard is used. 
■ Melt the butter and stir it into the molasses 
and then the esg, ginger and soda. 

The mixture begins to foam. Then stir in the 
flour, and lastly tlie hot water, a little at a time. 
Bake in a shallow pan. 



186— C'ollops of Beef ill Glaze. 

By long stewing and with care at the finish, we 
can have small pieces of beef, no matter how 
coarse the cut, perfectly tender and covered with 
the richest natural gravy without any additions 
whatever other than plain seasoning. 

Take two pounds of the neck of beef and cut 
it into small but thick steaks. Put them on in 
sold water with a teaspoouful of salt and half as 
much black pepper, and boil with the lid on for 
three hours. As the water boils away stir up the 
meat from the bottom lest it stick and burn. 
Move the saucepan to the front where you can 
watch it, and as soon as the water is nearly all 
expelled and before the saucepan bottom begins 
to brown, take it off. Put the pieces of meat on 
a hot dish. There will perhaps be a teacupful of 
essence of meaffin the saucepan. Skim off the 
fat if necessary and pour the essence over for 
gravy. 

187— Boasted Onions. 

Peel a sufficient number of onions and steam 
them until done, which may take an hour and a 
half. Then bake them in a pan with a little 
drippings and salt and a sprinkling of sugar or 
syrup to cause them to brown on top. Serve 
tiiem in the same dish with the coUops of beef 
placed around the edge. 

188— Hot Slaw. 

1 quart of finely shred cabbage. 

1 cupful of mixed vinegar and water. 

1 egg or 2 or :^ yolUs. 

1 tablespoonful of butter. 

Little salt, &ui,'ar and rod pepper. Mix all to- 
gether in a bright saucepan set in another of 
boiling water, and stir uutil it is at boiling heat, 
and the eggs in it thicken and make it look 
creamy. Do not let it cook. 

lS9-Boilea Molasses KsiU. 

For the paste : 

S ounces of flour — 2 heaping cuptuls. 

Lard or butter size of an egg. 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Little salt 

Water to mix — over half cupful. 

The good of knowing huw much water by 



measure is that it saves weighing or measuring 
flour, as so much water will take up so much. 

Mix the flour and water with nothing else in 
but salt. Have the dough as soft as it possibly 
can be worked. Knead it on the table a little, 
roll out and drop the lard on it in little lumps, 
fold over in three and roll out again. Then 
strew half the baking powder over the sheet of 
paste dry, fold up and rollout; spread the rest 
of the powder and fold and roll it twice more. 
That makes flaky roly-noly pudding paste. 

}i'or the filling take half a cupful of molasses, 
stir into it a tablespoonful of flour and two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Spread the preparation 
over the sheet of dough rolled out thin, roll it 
up, tie in a pudding cloth and pin the middle, 
and boil or steam it one hour. Dip the pudding 
a moment in cold water when to be taken out of 
the cloth. Serve with plain sauce. 



A still cheaper paste for roll puddings is the 
biscuit dough made with buttermilk and soda, 
as at No. 177. 

MENU NO. XVIII.— DINNER. 



190 -Btef Pot-Pie. 

3 pounds of coarse fat beef. 

1 slice of salt pork or bacon. 

1 onion. 

Salt, black pepper, flour thickening; 

Biscuit dough for dumplings. 

Take any pieces of beef not suitable for steaks, 
cut them to one size, put on in cold water, and 
let stew at least two hours, with the lid on. 
Throw in the seasoning of pickled pork and 
onion, pepper and salt. Mix a teaspoonful of 
flour with water for thickening. 



191— Lislit JDumplinss For Pot-Pies. 

1 heaping cupful of flour. 

1 small teaspoonful of baking power. 

14 cupful of water. 

Mix the powder in the flour dry, add a Utile 
salt; then mix up wuth a spoon. The doagh should 
be a little too soft to handle and the dumplings 
then will remain light after cooking instead of 
turning heavy as they often do after being good 
when first done. Droji the dumplings with a 
spoon all over the top of the stew, put on the lid 
and when they are nearly cooked set the sauce- 
pan ill the oven without the lid to brown the top. 
Baste once with the stew liquor. 



192— How to Boil Potatoe.s. 

While the complaint is so common that very 
few cooks know how to boil a potato properly, it 
may be well to remember that some kinds of 
potatoes are so bad already they can neither be 
made better nor worse, no matter how they are 
cooked. The early sorts, that grow rapidly and 
soon become low-priced, are usually of a watery 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



nature. If a potato has any mealiness in it at all 
it will show if cooked this way; 

Pare and put them on in cold water, with , a 
little salt in it. Boil with the lid on till they will 
leave the fork when tried — about twenty to thirty 
minutes. Drain away the water, and keep the 
potatoes hot with the lid on, but not quite closed. 
The next best way is to steam them ; and pota- 
toes with their jackets on are still in favor even 
at the best tables. Potatoes to be baked should 
have the ends cut off and blaclc spots removed. 
Cutting off the ends is supposed to make them 
mealy by allowing the inside moisture to escape. 
Whether that be true or not they look the better 
for the attention bestowed. 



193— Koiled Corn Starch FudiUus. 

1 pint of milk — 3 cupfuls. 

1 tablespoonful of sugar. 

3 heaping tablespoonfuls of starch. 

1 tablespoonful of butter. 

1 egg or the yolk only. 

Flavoring and little salt. 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it. Mis the 
starch with a spoonful of cold milk and some of 
the hot; stir it in, and let cook with constant 
stirring about two minutes. Beat in the yolk 
and butter, and take it at once from the fire. For 
flavoring a piece of orange zest, pared thin, may 
be used, or stick cinnamon. Serve with sweet- 
ened milk or cream. 

This T3udding should be made only just before 
it is wanted, and not kept hot enough to cook 
more when once done. 



194— To Stew Evaporated App'f s. 

The light colored, better qualities of dried ap- 
ples are made scarcely distinguishable froni 
fresh fruit by cooking a little acid with thein, 
such as lemon juice, in the watei-, or some sour 
fruit. They should be steeped in cold water be 
fore cooking, and be cooked in plenty of water 
and the steam shut in. The apples are all the 
richer for having to stew till the surplus water, if 
any, is expelled. Dried pears cannot be cooked 
soft unless of a special kind, but need to steep 
awhile and then cook about an hour. 



MENU NO. XIX— DINNER. 



195— Beef Heart, Stuflfed and Baked. 

Boil the heart tender first, allowing about two 
or three hours, and let the water be nearly all 
boiled away at the finish, tbat the remaining 
liquor may be available for gravj. 

Make the bread stuiSng with onion and sage 
in it as at No. 30, but it will do without the egg. 
When the heart has boiled long enough cut out a 
portion of the middle and fill the cavity with 
stufiing. Set the heart in a pan in the oven with 
the liquor it was boiled in, and salt and pepper 
aud bake brown. Cut the piece of heart into 
small pieces, put them tq the liquor rema.iniDg 



in the pan and stir up with the fragments of 
dressing and a spoonful of thickening, making a 
savory thick sauce or I'agout. 

196— Boiled Navy Beans. 
Steep a pint of beans in water overnight. Put 
them on in plenty of cold water to cook, and 
throw in soda or saleratus the size of a bean, Let 
boil an hour and a half, then drain off the hot 
water and fill up again with cold. Boil again 
till the beans are well done. Drain aud season. 
The foregoing will be found an effectual method 
for cooking beans soft, no matter how difficult 
the sample furnished may be. 

197— Washington Fie. 

As there are other articles known by this 
name, it may be as well to state that this is a sort 
of brown bread pudding baked in a crust, such 
as is sold at the bakeries.^ 

1 pound of bread crumbs— a pressed-in quart. 

8 ounces of molasses or sugar — a teacupful. 

8 ounces of currants or raisins. 

3 teaspoonfuls of mixed ground spices, chiefly 
cinnamon. 

3 teacupfuls of water. 

1 small cupful of vinegar or hard cider. 

8 ounces of suet chopped fine. 

3 eggs — optional. 

Mix everything together. Cover the bottom of 
a baking pan with a thin sheet of common short 
paste (No. 103), pour in the mixture to be an 
inch and a half deep, cover with another tniu 
crust, brush over the top with milk. Bake to a 
light color in a slow oven about three-quarters of 
an hour. Cut out squares either hot or cold. 



MENU NO. XX.— DINNER. 



198- Polato Cream Soup. 

3 quarts of souij stocli. 

1 medium-sized onion. 

A^knuckle of boiled ham. 

3 large potatoes, 

1 cupful of milk or cream. 

Salt and pepper. 

Boil the veal bones named in the recipe below, 
a soup bone beside, a small knuckle bone of 
boiled ham or a slice of pickled pork and a soup 
bunch of vegetables in three quarts of water un- 
til it is reduced to two quarts. Mince an onion 
very small and throw it in. 

Boil and mash the potatoes, mix the milk with 
them, add this to the soup, and then strain it 
through a colander. Season with salt and pep- 
per and shake in a teaspoouful of mixed jjarsley. 

199-Baked lickerel wiih Green Peas. 

Split the fish, after scalding it, down the back, 
and cut out the backbone, take off the head, tail 
and fins. 

Lay these boneless sides in a baking pan with 
a little salt in the bottom ftnd ft half cupful g.'' 



44 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



water, the skin side of the fish upward. Bake it 
about ten minutes and baste it once with the 
water in the pan, then take out the pan and re- 
move the skin from the fish — it peels off easily. 
Beat an egg in a teacup, put a little salt in and 
brush it all over the surface and cover that with 
sifted cracker dust or very finely crushed dried 
bread crumbs. Set it again in the oven and 
presently baste the breading with either clear 
dripping lard or butter. The fish should be 
done and handsomely browned in about twenty 
minutes. Serve with a border of green peas, 
either in a large dish — the fish being taken up 
with two cake turners — or in individual portions 
with the peas in the same plate. 



300-Stnffed Brisket of Veal. 

The breast or brisket of veal is a low-priced 
cut, at least when the veal is large, but is most 
e.icellent when cooked tender. There is a large 
proportion of gelatinous bone and tendon good 
for soups and stews. Take the entire "plate," 
as the butchers call it, and take out the bones by 
cutting down the sides of the ribs and along the 
brisket edge with the point of a knife, without 
cutting through. Then chop the bones in pieces 
and use them in the soup, as directed in a pre- 
ceding recipe. Make the bread stuffing, No. 30 
(without the onion), lay it on the broad, bone- 
less piece of veal — which may be made broader 
and evener by splitting the breast edge part way 
— then roll up and tie it in good shape with 
twine. Put the rolled veal into a baldng pan, 
with fat skimmed from the soup, a little water 
and salt, and bake with a greased paper on top 
for a time, according to the size of the veal — 
probably an hour and a half. Baste it with a 
little drippings, roll it over in the glaze or gravy 
of the pan when that becomes brown at last, and 
make pan gravy when the meat is taken out in 
the usual way, 

201— Summer Squash, 

This vegetable should always be steamed, or at 
any rate not boiled in water, it being an object to 
get it as dry as possible so as to allow the addi- 
tion of milk or cream when it is mashed. Shave 
off the outside thinly with a sharp knife; cut 
each squash in six or eight pieces. It depends 
upon the age and distinctness of the seeds 
whether they shonld be out out or not ; if large 
enough to show prominently in the mashed 
squash take out the entire core. Squash cooks 
in about half an hour, and may be allowed to 
simmer and dry out more after mashing and 
seasoning, in a pan set upon a couple of bricks. 



20JJ~Steamed Cherry Pudding. 

Make a light dough without shortening, either 
the same as the buttermilk biscuit at No. 177, or 
the potpie dumplings at No. 191, only in each 



case make the dough carefully, not to 
get too much flour mixed in, as very 
soft dough will prove to be much 
lighter than that worked up hard. Grease the 
bottom of a pan or dish that will go in your 
steamer, cover it with a thin layer of the paste, 
spread over that a cupful of pitted cherries (or 
other fruit), cover with another thin sheet of 
paste, then another layer of chei'ries and a cover 
of paste on top. Steam it an hour and a half or 
more. Serve with sugar dip (No. 184) or the 
more expensive hard sauce. 



303— Hani Sauce. 

1 large cupful of powdered sugar. 

1 small cupful of fresh butter. 

Grared nutmeg. 

Soften the butter but not melt it. Stir it and 
the sugar together to a cream as in making cake. 
The more it is stirred (if in a bowl or dish and 
not in tin) the whiter it becomes. Spread it on a 
dish and grate nutmeg on top. Keep it cold until 
wanted. 

Good for all kinds of puddings, and can be 
colored pink by adding while steaming a little 
red fruit juice 

S04— Covei'ed ]l«inon Pie. 

Cheapest kind, as made by the bakers. No 
eggs needed. 

S ounces of sugar — 1 large cupful. 

3 ounces of flour — 1 small cupful. 

1 lemon. 

1 pint of water — 3 cupfuis. 

Grate the rind of the lemon into a small sauce- 
pan, using a tin grater and scraping off with a 
fork what adheres. Squeeze in the juice, scrape 
out the pulp, chop it, put in the water and boil. 
Mix the sugar and flour toeether dry and stir 
them into the boiling liquor. When half thick- 
ened take it off and let finish in the pies. 

The above makes two large pies or three small. 
It is necessary to be particular to get the right 
amount of flour. The mixture is pale yellow 
from the rind and sugar. 

For the crust rub half a pound of shortening 
into a pound of flour, mix with cold water and 
roll out three times. Put top as well as bottom 
crust on these pies. 



805- Ice Cream With Pure Cream. 

1 quart of cream. 

13 ounces of sugar. 

Flavoring extract. 

Mix, whip the cream partly to froth, pour into 
a freezer that will hold twice as much, freeze it 
quickly, and if in a common freezer turned by 
hand beat it up light afterward, cover down and 
let freeze again. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



45 



MENU NO. XXI— DINNER. 

306— Cauliflower Cream .Soup. 

1 quart, more or les8, of soup stock. 

1 pint of rich milk. 

1 pint cupful of cooked cauliflower. 

1 tablespoonful of minced onion. 

1^ blade of mace. 

1 tablespoonful of butter. 

Salt and white pepper or cayenne. 

1 tablespoonful of minced parsley. 

Cauliflower left over from a previous dinner 
can be used. 

The clear white brotli that has had an old fowl 
boiled tender in it is beat for such a soup as this. 
Any pieces or bones from the breakfast or dinner 
meats may be put into the stock pot with it to 
make it richer. Also add the scrap of mace and 
a small allowance of any soup vegetaoles at 
hand. The cauliflower is to be the principal 
article. If to be cooked for the purpose, pick 
the caulifiovrer into little branches and boil it 
separately in salted water nearly or quite half an 
hour. 

Strain off a quart of the stock clear and free 
from grease into a saucepan, boil it with the 
minced onion in it, mash about half of the cauli- 
flower and put in, boil the milk and add that, 
season with pepper and salt, thicken, if not 
thick enough already, till it looks like thin 
cream, with flour-and-water thickening, add the 
butter, the balance of the cauliflower branches 
whole as they are, and the green sprinkling of 
pastry. 

20t— Blueflsli Stufted and Baked. 

Scale and cleanse the fish, clip or chop off the 
fins, and that it may be easy to serve in good 
shape drive the point of a knife into it through 
the bone where the portions are to be taken off. 
Dry the fish inside and out with a clean towel, 
fill the inside with the bread stuifing of the fol- 
lowing recipe, sew it up and lay it in a baking- 
pan. Put info the pan beside it a slice of pickled 
pork, a small piece of onion, some salt, drip- 
pings or butter and put enough water to keep 
the pan from burning. Bake the fish 
from half to three-quarters of an hour, 
basting frequently. Butter in the pan gives 
the best color and makes the best gravy. When 
the fish is done take it up on two batter-cake 
turners and place it on its dish, then make gravy 
in the pan in the usual way, add pepper and 
strain it for sauce. Serve some of the aressmg 
with each portion in lieu of potatoes. 



308— Bread Stufflins: for Fish. 

3 pressed-in cupfuls of bread crumbs. 
A sprinkling of thyme and savory. 
1 teaspoonful of mixed salt and pepper. 
1 small cupful of minced suet. 



1 small cupful of warm water. 

legg. 

Mix all together in a pan. Let the dressing 
have a decided seasoning of pepper, which im- 
proves the flavor of the fish. 



309-Squab Pie. 

6 fledgeling pigeons. 

4 ounces of butter. 

1 quart of broth or water. 

Flour, pepper and salt. 

1 pound of pie crust. 

The squabs can be picked dry, but a little 
easier if scalded Singe and draw, splitting 
them down the back first, like broiling 
chickens, and then cut in halves. Wash and 
dry them, flatten a little with the side of the 
cleaver, pepper and salt and flour on both sides, 
then fry them slightly in the butter melted in the 
same baking pan the pie is to be made in. 

When the squabs have acquired a light brown 
on both sides pour into the pan about a quart of 
broth or water and set in in the stove that they 
may stew tender while you make the crust. See 
whether the flour on the birds has thickened the 
liquor sufficiently, and add salt and pepper. 
Cover with a thin sheet of dough and bake twenty 
or thirty minutes longer. 



The short paste, as made for lemon pie, No. 
204, is good for all sorts of meat pies ; but for a 
handsome family dish to be set on the table 
whole a covering of well-made light and dry puff 
paste is not too good. There should not be 
enough gravy in the dish, however, to reach the 
paste while baking, as it would prevent it from 
rising, but the reserved portion can be poured in 
when the pie is done. For a family pie of this 
sort the birds, of course, have to be transferred 
from pan to dish before the crust is put on, 



310— Stewed Tomatoes. 

Put the tomatoes in a pan and pour boiling 
water over to scald the skins. Let stand till cool 
enough to handle, then peel them. Place the 
peeled tomatoes in a colander that some of the 
surplus liquor may drain away, after that set 
them over the fire in a saucepan and break them 
up with a spoon. Season with pepper and salt; 
let stew awhile, and add a few fine bread crumbs 
if desired. The bread addition is only a device 
to thicken the vegetable, and many people prefer 
to omit it and make the tomato thick enough by 
draining first and stewing down. 



311— floating: Islands. 

Small sponge cakes sliced, the slices spread 
with fruit jelly, placed in ice cream saucers and 
rich boiled custard poured in to float them, and 
a spoonful of whippea cream piled on top. 
The best may be made by the following recipes: 



46 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



313— Italian Cakes. 

Make sponge cake mixture like No. 151, by the 
same mode, with ingredients as follows: 

14 ounces of granulated sugar. 

13 eggs. 

10 ounces of flour. 

1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 

Lemon extract to flavor. 

When ihe eggs and sugar have been beaten up 
to more than twice their original bulk beat in the 
cream of tartar, flavor, and lightly stir in the 
flour. Drop portions of the batter on sheets of 
paper, either with a teaspoon or through a cor- 
net made of a sheet of paper pinned to shape 
and the point clipped off. As soon as the sheet 
is lull sift xjowdered sugar all over the cakes. 
Then take hold of two corners of the sheet of 
paper, shake off the surplus sugar and put the 
sheet of cakes on the baking pan. Bake in a 
slack oven until light brown. Take off the 
paper by moistening the under side with a brush 
dipped in water. 

These cakes are for the cake baskets, to have 
jelly spread between twos, to line molds for char- 
lotte-russe and for floating islands, etc. 



ai3— Wine Custard. 

1 quart of rich milk. 

1 a yolks of eggs. 

13 ounces of sugar. 

1 cupful of sweet wine. 

Boil the milk with about half the sugar in it. 
Beat the yolks with the rest of the sugar until 
light and thick, pour the boiling milk to them, 
set ou the fire again and let it thicken, but take 
off at the first sign of boiling, as it will curdle if 
allowed to get too liot. Strain the custard, and 
when cold add wine or maraschino for flavoring. 
Serve ice cold in custard cups or glasses, or in a 
large glass bowl with jelly cake floating in it, and 
whipped cream on top, or in saucers with small, 
round Italian cakes in the same way, but in in- 
dividual style. 

814- Frozen Strawberry Puiicli. 

1 quart of strawberries — red, ripe and sweet 

1 pound of sugar. 

3 cupfuls of water. 

1 cupful of sweet wine. 

Cover the strawberries with the sugar and let 
remain some time to form a thick red syrup. 
Pick out a few of the berries to be mixed in the 
ice at least. Kub the rest through a strainer 
into the freezer with tlie syrnp and add the water 
and wine. Freeze as usual. This is punch 
f rappe ; but if to be a la Komaine whip the 
whites of three eggs to a firm, froth and mix 
them in after freezing and beat up weE In 
either case mix in the reserved berries lightly 
just before serving. They are not good if hard 
frozen in it Serve in glasses. 



MENU NO. XXII— SUPPER. 



One of the odd institutions of the city, is a 
"Cliioago Mush Company," brought into being, of 
course through the dislike people have of doing 
their own cooking, or, perhaps, the inconveni- 
ence of carrying on prolonged operations like 
that of cooking cornmeal till thoroughly done. 
The "Mush Company" furnishes the retail stores 
with pans of cold mush, presumably well-cooked 
h\' steam, marked into five-cent blocks, and 
ready for the purchaser either to warm up with 
water, or slice and fry. Some people will still, 
probably, continue to make their mush at home. 

Mu3h or porridge of cornmeal is by no means 
the peculiarly American dish it is generally sup- 
posed to be, the co-n-raising peoples of Europe 
making it not only in its simple form but in 
dishes of considerable pretentions, under the 
name of polenta, mixed with cheese, with meat, 
with herbs and mushrooms and even with truffles, 
and baked, fried, steamed in shape, and made 
the most of in every way. 

Well cooked mush is one of the things most 
rarely met with, but when to be had, made as 
good as it can be, is found at public tables to be 
in better demand than many articles of food that 
cost ten times as much. 



31.5— Com Meal Mush. 

2 quarts of water. 

12 ounces of corn meal — 2 cupfuls. 

1 rounded tablespoonful of salt 

Where the mush has to be made on a cook 
stove, a east pot with feet, to raise the bottom an 
inch from the tire, is the best vessel to use. It 
lessens the tendency to burn and reduces the 
waste if the inside is brushed over with a touch 
of lard or drippings. Put the salt in the water, 
boil, and sprinkle the dry meal in with one hand 
while yoti beat with an egg-heater or spoon in 
the other Put on the lid,' and let simmer with 
the steam shut in for about three hours. 

Doitble the quantity needed for one meal 
should be made and half put away to become 
cold to fry. For this purpose very slightly 
grease a pan, press the mush in evenly, and 
slightly brush over with melted lard again. No 
matter how little the grease, it prevents the 
formation of a crust by drying on top. 

Each quart of cold mush will cut into about 
ten slices or blocks for frying. 



31G— Smoked Hatlilock, or Finnan Haddies. 

The favorite way of cooking, when it is 
cooked at all, is by broiling. Brush the fish 
over with butter and pepper it well, then broil 
or toast until it is cooked through. But it is 
equally good this way: Pour boiling water over 
the fish from the tea kettle, take it out of the 
water, lay it in a baking pan, brush over with a 
little butter, pepper it well and bake in ahotoven 
about eight or ten minutes. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



47 



317— Broiled llvpr. 

Slice the liver thinly, pepper and salt the 
slices, die them iu a little melted drippings on a 
plate and broil in the wire toister over a clear 
fire. Where there is no convenience for broil- 
ing over coals the slices, after being dipped, 
may be laid in a baking pan, baited on the top 
shelf iu the stove oven, and when the top is 
browned turned over, and the liver will be as 
good as if broiled, much better for a supper dish 
than if fried in fat, and not needing bacon to 
mane it palatable. 

318-Vienuii KoUs. 

2 pounds of flour. 

2 cnpfuls of millt. 

J^ caite of eompresaed yeast, or J^ cupful of 
pstato yeast. 

3 teaspoonfuls of sugar. 
2 teaspoonfuls of salt. 

Make the milk lukewarm and dissolve the yeast 
in it. Set sponge at 9 in the morning, at noon 
add the salt and sugar and make up stiff dough. 
Let rise till about 4. Then work the dough well 
on the table by pressing out and folding over. 

Roll out the dough in one large sheet as thin as 
you can, which will be about the thinness of a 
dinner plate edge; then, measuring with your 
hand, cut the dough into strips or bands as wide 
across as your hand is long. Cut tnese again into 
triangular pieces for rolls, not equal sided but 
long and narrow triangles. Roll these triangular 
pieces up, beginning at the broad bottom end. 
and the point will come up in the middle, and 
there will be a spiral mark around from end to 
end. 

Give each roll a few turns under the hands to 
smooth it and place it on the frying pan in the 
the form of a crc-ioent — just the shape and size 
of the new moon. Brush over with water or 
melted lard. Let rise in the pans about half an 
hour and bake about ten minutes. 




VIENKA KOLLS. 



219— Baked Apples. 

10 apples. 
4 ounces of sugar. 
Butter size of an egg. 
Half-cup of water. 
Grating of nutmeg. 

Cut oft a slice of paring from the top and bot- 
tom of each apple, core, but do not pare them, 



place in a pan, put the sugar in the cni-o holes 
and the nutmeg and butter on tip, add tlie 
water and bake and baste frequently wuh their 
own syrup till done. The syrup at last should 
be thick as .jelly and may be served with the 
apples. A bright pan or dish should he used. 
A sheet of greased paper laid on top will keep 
the fruit from blistering and blackening before 
it is baked through. 



330-SiionsB GliiKerbread. 

8 ounces of molasses — a teacupf ul. 

y large tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

4 oimces of butter — a teacupf ul, small. 

1 cupful of milk. 

H eggs. 

1 large teaspoonful of ground ginger. 

1 large teaspoonful of baking powder. 

1 pound or quart of flour. 

Melt the butter in the milk made warm, and 
pour them into the molasses and sugar, mix, 
add the eggs, the ginger and iJowder, and lastly 
the flour. 

It is a great improvement to beat the cake 
thoroughly with a spoon. It is too soft to be 
handled. Spread it an inch thick in a buttered 
pan or mold. Bake twenty or thirty minutes. 



231— Brown Ginser Co.ikirs, Good C 

Quarter pound of buttei-. 
Quarter pound of sugar. 
Quarter pound of black molasses. 
2 eggs. 

1 tablespoonful of ground ginger. 
Quarter cupfnl of water. 

2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

1 pound or quart of iiour, or enough to make 
soft dough. 

Mix the ingredients in the order they are named 
in, roll out and cut with a small cutter. 

MENU NO. XXIII— BREAKFAST. 



220— About BreadiriK. 

Breading an article consists in making 
either fine bread crumbs or the meal of crushed 
crackers, or sometimes corn meal adhere to the 
surface while it is fried, giving it a crisp coating. 
It is usual to dip the article first in egg or egg 
and water, but experienced cooks have several 
other expedients to save eggs, such as dipping in 
the flour and water batter, or in cream sauce, or. 
when the thing to be breaded is a croquette con- 
taining eggs already by balling them up in 
cracker meal without dipping at all. 

Where the time is not worth more than the 
material, the dry slices of bread left over should 
be dried to a crisp in a warm place, then rolled 
or pounded fine and run through a sieve. Rolls 
and gems containing sugar will not answer for 
the purpose, the crumbs soon turniug too dark in 
the frying. The use and intention of breading 
meats and fish is to inclose the juices and flavors 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



in the crisp envelope of egg and orumba, to ac- 
complish which the articles must be dropped 
into clear lard or other fat that la hot enough al- 
ready to hiss sharply when a drop of water 
touches it. The fat is too hot when it smokes, 
so that the smoke can be seen, and will discolor 
anything attempted to be fried in it. If properly 
done, breaded fish and cutlets come out as dry 
and free from grease as the crust of a loaf 

Sometimes, when potato croquettes or cro- 
quettes of chicken or rice, or codfish balls and 
the like are made accidentally too soft to be fried 
by merely rolling in flour, thi'V can be finished 
very satisfactorily by rolling in egg and 
crumbs. 



231-Eels Breaded and Frii d. 

Eels, eel-pouts, and similar fish can al- 
ways be had ready skinned for cooking, in the 
market. Eels of large size should lie split length 
wise, and the bone taken out, which is done by 
pressing the fi.sh on the table with one hand 
while the knife .in the other is guided by tlie 
spine bone and run along horizontally ou both 
sides of it 

Then cut the strips into three-inch lengths, 
dredge with pepper and salt, dip each piece in an 
egg beaten with half as much water, tbea in the 
cracker meal — with cave not to rub and make 
bare spots, which will spoil the breading— and 
when the lard is hot drop them in and fry about 
live minutes. Garnish with parsley either plain 
or fried and serve with potatoes. 



282-Saratoffa Chip Potatoes. 

Potatoes sliced thick are not Saratogas 
though generally so called. The true chips 
are as thin as paper and curl ap when fried. 
Tliey are used cold as well as hot, and may be 
prepared before wanted and kept a considerable 
time. It is necessary to have clean fi'esh lard 
and potatoes of good quality to get Saratoga 
chips of good color and the proper crispness. 
They should be put in before the lard gets very 
hot, have time to dry out in it, and when yellow 
should be drained in a colander, set in a pan 
and salt sprinkled over. 



2S3— Broiled Liver and Bacon. 

It is too wasteful and untidy to broil the bacon, 
unless in the restaurants, where the customers 
are charged for the waste. Half the bacon goes 
away in fat and flames. Fry the slices in a small 
frying pan, dip the liver in the fat, lay it on the 
broiler over clear coals, pepper and salt while it 
is cooking, and serve a slice of the fried bacon on 
top of each piece. 

224— Fried Musli. 

The mush put away in a can over night can be 
turned out on to the table after setting the pan 
a moment on the stove top tn warm. Cut blocks 
or slices, dip tht-m in egg and then cover with 



cracker meal or fine bread crumbs and drop 
them into hot lard or drippings. 



225— To Fry Musli Without Breadins. 

Roll the pieces in flour and let them lie in it 
a while to become well coated, then drop them 
into lard or drippings that is liot enough to brown 
the outside instantly. 

Thin slices may also be rolled in flour and 
browned on a greased oalce griddle. 



336-\Vheat Muffins. 

These are very fine and well worth knowing 
how to make. 

1 pound of light bread dough. 

Butter size of an egg. 

1 basting spoonful of milk. 

1 teaspoonful of sugai'. 

3 yolks — or 1 egg. 

1 ounce of flour. 

Little salt. 

Take tlie piece of dough — about two large 
cupfuls — from your light bread that was set to 
rise over night. Two hours before breakfast 
work in the ingredients named and beat the stiff 
batter thus made against the side of the pan 
until it is very elastic and smooth. Let rise in a 
warm place about an hour. 

The nuiffiu rings should be two inches across 
and one inch deep. Grease them, set in a greased 
pan, half fill with the batter, which should be 
thin enough to settle down smooth, but thick 
enough not to run under the nngs; let rise half 
an hour, bake ten minutes in a hot oven. 



237-Mufflns from the Besrinninff. 

When there is no dough ready made the muffins 
can be mixed over night with these ingredients 
and thoroughly beaten in the morning: 

2 heaping cupfuls of flour. 

1 small cupful of yeast and water. 

Butter size of an egg. 

1 teaspoonful of sugar. 

2 yolks of eggs. 
Salt. 

The batter should be too soft to handle, yet not 
thin enough to run. 

228— Corn Batter Cakes. 

2 cupfuls of white corn meal. 

1 cupful of flour. 

2 cupfuls of milk or wafer, 
legg 

1 bastingspoonful of melted lard. 

A little salt. 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Make a hollow in the middle of the meal and 
floiu-, put in all the other ingredients and stir up 
smooth. 

When there is no milk to mix up with add a 
spoonful of syrup to make the cakes brown easily 
on the griddle. 

It is practicable to bake batter-cakes without 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



40 



greasing the griddle. It need only be rubbed 
with a cloth after each baking. 



339-ChncoIate. 

1 quart of milk and water. 

1 ounce of chocolate. 

Boil the milk and water in a small, bright 
saucepan. Scrape down an ounce aa marked on 
the half-pound cakes of common chocolate, 
throw it in and beat with a wire egg whisk about 
one minute, or till the chocolate is all dissolved. 
Send it in as soon as made, if practicable; but if 
kept on hand set it where it will keep hot, but 
not boil. 

MENU NO. XXIV.— DINNER. 
S33— Tomato Soup. 

2 quarts of soup stock. 

1 cupful of stewed tomatoes. 

1 small cupful of minced vegetables. 

(5 cloves. 

1 tablespoonful of minced parsley. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Little flour thickening. 

The soup stock may be the liquor in which a 
piece of beet' or mutton is boiled for dinner, 
with the addition of other raw scaps and pieces, 
such as the bones and gristly ends of a beef- 
steak. An hour before dinner time take out the 
meat and strain the stock through a tine strainer 
into the soup pot. Cut a piece of carrot, turnip 
and onion into small dice and throw in and let 
cook till done, add the cloves and cup of 
tomatoes, pepper and salt, thickening and the 
parsley at last. 

It is generally considered a reproach to say the 
soup is thin, and our people have to be educated 
up to the appreciation of the thin soups of the 
French. A proper medium should be observed. 
A spoonful of flour gives the smoothness and 
substance required without destroying the clear- 
ness ot the soup. 

Tomatoes stewed down after seasoning with 
salt, pepper and butter, are a different article 
from the freshly prepared and impart a new 
richness to soup. 

333— Fried Bass with Hacoii. 

Scale and clean the fish, chop off the fins, and 
if small cook them without cutting; if large, 
split them lengthwise and out across making four. 

Pepper and salt the pieces, roll them in flour 
and let lie iu it imtil the last; drop them into a 
pan of hot lard and let fry from five minutes up- 
ward according to size. 

Fry a slice of breakfast baoon for each piece 
of fish in another pan and send in the bacon on 
the fish and a garnish of parsley and plain boiled 
Ttotatoes. 

334 -Boiled Beef with Hor-eradiih. 

A fat, unctuous, gristly piece of the brisket or 
"p ate" is best for this, or the rib ends that are 



sawn off a rib roast. Boil it slowly for at least 
three hours; have a little salt in the water (which 
is afterwards to be used to make soup). Grate 
or finely scrape down a stick of horseradish, put 
it in a bowl with vinegar and water enough to 
cover, and use it for sauce. 



335— Lnrded Liver with Onions. 

Calf's liver is the best Take a niece of liver 
and about one-third as much bacon or salt pork. 
Cut the bacon into strips about the size of a pen- 
cil and draw them through the liver with a lard- 
ing needle, or if no needle is haildy push the 
strips of bacon, cut pointed, into holes made ' 
with a narrow knife or a steel. The closer the 
strips and the more of them the better, and let 
the larding be done so that the slices can be 
cut across it after cooking; place the liver in 
the oven iu a baking pan . with a 
little drippings and a greased paper laid on 
top to keep it moist, and cook half an hour or 
more, according 1 1 size. Serve in slices either 
with roasted onions (No. 187) or fried onions, or 
a mild onion sauce poured under. 



336— J'an'aaovvei' in Cream. 

Cauliflower takes from half to three-quarters 
of an hour to cook done. It should not boil 
rapidly enough to destroy the small flowerets. 
Try the stems with a fork and take off when 
tender. A lump of baking soda the size of a bean 
in the water will hasten the cooking without in- 
juring the vegetable. 

Divide the cauliflower into portions of con- 
venient size before cooking, and when drained 
and dished up pour a spoonful or two of good, 
strained cream sauce (iSo. 106) over each portion. 



337— Eks I'laiit Plain Fvied-(Saute(!d.) 

Slice the egg plant, without paring, into five 
or six, throwing away only the end parings. Boil 
the slices in salted water a few minutes to extract 
the strong taste, drain tbem, and while still moist 
dip both sides iu flour, then fry brown in a fry- 
iugpan with a little drippings. They are served 
as a vegetable, like fried parsnips, etc. 

338— Macaroni with Tomatoes. 

4 ounces of macaroni. 

1 ounce of grated cheese. 

l{ cupful of thick stewed tomatoes. 

}^ cupful of brown meat gravy. 

Salt and pepper. 

This is a favorite way with the Italians. The 
dish need not be baked. They simply boil the 
macaroni and then make it rich, not to say 
greasy, with the other articles and gravy from 
the meat dishes. 

Break the macaroni into three-inch lengths, 
throw it into boiling water and let cook twenty 
minutes. Draiu it, put it into a baking jiau, mix 
in the grated cheese, the tamatoes, the gravy, 
salt and pepper and, if necessary, a lump oi 



50 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



butter. Mix up and let simmer together about 
half an hour, either in a slack oven or on the 
stove hearth. It will be all eaten if not made 
too strong flavored with tomatoes or too 
salt — the common mistakes. 



839— Spanish Puff Fritters. 

At No. 33 we had queen fritters, or puff 
fritters of a rather plain sort This variety is 
sweet, and the harder to fry without burning, 
but is rich and round-shaped. 

1^ pint of water — 1 cupful. 

3}^ ounces of butter — }{ cupful. 

2 tablespoonsful of sugar — 1}4 ounces. 
5 ounces of iiour — a heaping cupful. 

3 large eggs. 

1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract 

Boil the water with the sugar and butter in it 
in a deep saucepan. Drop in the iiour all at 
once and stir the mixture over the tire till you 
have a firm, well-cooked paste. Take it from 
the fire and work in the eggs one at a time with 
a spoon, and beat the paste well against the side 
of the saucepan. Add the vanilla with the last 

egg- 
Drop pieces as large as guinea eggs into hot 
lard in a saucepan and let fry slowly. Only four 
or five at a time, as they expand after a few 
minute's cooking and need all the room. Serve 
either with powdered sugar sifted over or a rich 
pudding sauce. (No. 34. ) 



240— Sliced Apple Pie. 

Use this way only the best ripe cooking ap- 
ples. Pare and core and slice them thin across 
the core hole, making rings. Fill paste-lined pie 
pans about two layers deep. Thinly cover the 
apple slices witli sugar, and grate nutmeg over. 
Put in each pie butter the size of a walnut and a 
large spoonful of water. Bake without a top 
crust slowly and dry. The apples become trans- 
parent and half candied. 



^41- Baked Indian Fuddiiie. 

This is the richest of cornmeal puddings, and 
everybody's favorite. 

1 quart of milk or water. 

6 ounces of corn meal — a teacupfuL 

.5 ounces of butter — a teacupful. 

1 small teacupful of black molasses. 

1 small lemon, juice andgratod rind. 

6 ej^gs well beaten. 

Butter the bottom of a kettle and make mush 
in it of the milk and meal, and let it simmer with 
the steam shut in an hour or tMjO. Then mix in 
the other ingredients and bake about half an 
hour. 



343— Lemon Sherbet. 

1 quart of water. 

1 pound of sugar. 

2 large lemons. 

3 whites of eggs. 

Grate the rinds of the lemons into a bowl and 
squeeze in the juice. Make a boiling syritp of 
the sugar and half the water and pour it hot to 
the lemon zest and juice and let remain bo tdl 
cold, or as long as convenient, to draw the flavor. 
Then add the rest of the water, strain into a 
freezer, freeze as usual, and when it is pretty 
well frozen whip the whites to a froth, mix them 
in, beat up and freeze again. 



243-Sm;,lI Ci 



Caki 



Make the cheap, but excellent and very use- 
ful cake mixture at No. oO. Slightly grease some 
baking pans and drop the batter by tabiespoou- 
fuls to form little round cakes. Sprinkle granu- 
lated sugar on top of each one. Bake in a slack 
oven. The cakes run out rather thin and deli- 
cate and should have plenty of room. Take off 
with a knife when cold and place twos together 
with pastry cream (No. 54) spread between. 



MENU NO. XXV.— TEA. 



244-Salt Macl£errl Boiled. 

There is as much difference between njackerel 
boiled soft and boiled hard as between eggs sim- 
ilarly cooked. If you would have mackerel ten- 
der, as well as of good color, put it on to cook in 
cold water and take it off as soon as it begins to 
boil. It is best if it can be cooked to order, or 
only as wanted, as it becomes hard and curls out 
of shape with standing long in the water. Mack 
erel looks best if cut across, uot lengthwise, each 
fish maliing three portions. Disk the s!du side 
up and a spoonful of melted butter over it 



Mackerel put in water to freshen will hardly 
keep sweet twelve hours unless ice water be 
used or the vessel set in the refrigerator. It 
should remain in water at least twenty-four 
hours, and be changed once or twice. After that 
if any are wanted to brod, they should be hung 
up to dry one meal ahead. 



345— Salt Macl.eri-l Broiled. 

Di/ide the fis'h lengthwise, and, if of the 
largest size, again into quarters. Broil over 
clear coals, or toast before the fire in the hinged 
wire broder, browning the inside first Serve the 
brown skin side uppermost, with a spoonful of 
melted butter poured over. It should cook ia 
iivo minutes. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



51 



246— Calf's Liver a la Brochette. 

Take a tbin slice of liver and one of breakfast 
bacon for each person and cut them into little 
square pieces as nearly of one size as may be 
and place them; on tinned skewers, a piece of 
liver and a piece of bacon alternately till the 
skewers are full. Dredge with pepper, place 
them m a dripping pan in the oven, turn them 
over two or three times while they are cooking 
and when done place the liver and bacon on long 
pieces of buttered toast already in a dish, hold 
in place with a fork while you draw out the 
skewers, then send it in. 



S47— Potted Veal, or Veal Loaf. 

We have to make such minced dishes as this 
by rule and measure, lest they be too soft to 
slice when cold or too much the other way to be 
good eating: 

6 ounces of mixed cold veal — a cupful 

1 ounce of bacon or knuckle of ham. 

1 ounce of butter. 

legg. 

Salt, pepper, grating of nutmeg, and little 
lemon juice. 

Shave all the outside off the cooked veal (or 
other white meat) before mincing it Add a thin 
slice of raw bacon and a few shreds 
of cooked lean ham, if convenient, for flavor, 
and when all are finely chopped add the rest of 
the ingredients and season well with pepper. 
Make up in a little loaf shape, smooth it over 
and bake in a dripping pr n about hall an hour. 
It may be eaten hot with gravy or kept and 
sliced cold for tea or supper. 



Various kinds of sausages are made with part 
cooked meat and part raw, and with additions of 
bacon or ham and powdered bay leaf for season- 
ing. When cold meat is minced there must be a 
binding ingredient added, else it will fall apart in 
the baking and be unsavory eating. The preced- 
ing recipe requires an egg. This is very nice, 
and firmer to slice with half raw meat and no egg. 



348— Veal Loaf, or Potted Veal. 

4 ounces of cooked meat^ 

4 ounces of raw veal. 

1 ounce of raw fat bacon. 

Shreds of lean ham for flavoring. 

A pinch of powdered bay leaf. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Mince and mix all together ; make up in a ball 
and bake half an hour. To be eaten either hot 
or cold. 



249— Cauliflower Salad. 

Take cauliflower left over from dinner, or else 
pull a head apart into suitable sized bunches, and 
boil them in salted water about three-quarters of 
an hour, drain and set away to get oojd, Then 



put it into a howl containing the followiug salad 
dressing, and when to be sewed dip out the 
pieces well coated with it and place them neatly 
in a pile on a flat dish and ornament the edges. 



2S0-Salad DressiiiK Without Oil. 

J^ cupful of vinegar. 

y{ cupful of water. 

}4 cupful of butter — 3 ounces. 

J^ cupful of yolks of eggs — 5 yolks. 

1 fablespoonful of made mustard 

Salt and cayenne. 

Boil the vinegar, water, butter and salt to- 
gether in a bright saucepan, beat the yolks, and 
add to them some of the boiling liquid, then pour 
all into the saucepan, stir rapidly, and in a few 
seconds, or as soon as the mixture becomes 
thick aud smooth, like softened butter, take it 
from the fire. Add the mustard aud cayenne, 
and make it ice cold for use. 



251— Sally Lunn Tea Cakes. 

30 ounces of light dough — about 3 cupfula. 

3 ounces of butter — }4 cupful. 

3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

1 whole egg and 1 yolk. 

}i cupful of milk. 

1 cupful of flom- — 4 ounces. 

Take the dough either from the rolls or bread 
or procured from the baker's, at about 1 or 2 
o'clock, and work in the enriching ingredients, 
then add the flour and beat thoroughly. It 
makes dough too soft to be kneaded, and like 
fritter hatter. 

Rise 3 hours. Beat again. Divide it into 3 
pie pans. Else half an hour. Bake about 15 
minutes. Brush over the top witli a little good 
butter. Cut in pieces like pie, but carefully 
with up and down strokes witli a sharp knife, 
not to crush the spongy cake. Serve hot 



Excepting only ice cream the pastrycooks 
produce nothing that is so unusually acceptable 
as the charlotte russe. Everywhere, from the 
places of the grand banquets to the shops where 
it is exchangeable for a 5-cent piece, it is seen 
constantly in one form or another. I'here are 
several varieties to be made m tbis article, and 
since it must appear and is welcome often, we 
may go a little out of the way to avoid the ready- 
made appearance of tiie shop article in these we 
make ourselves. The prime necessity for mak- 
ing charlotte ruase is commonly supposed to 
be pure sweet cream. Nevertheless it is 
not difficult to do without that scarce 
article. A few months ago a pastry cook from 
Chicago was sent for to take a situation in a hotel 
in another city some 600 miles away, his fare aud 
expenses paid, and he went prepared for work. 
Yet before a week had passed he was hack in 
Chicago again— could not work there. There 



52 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



were small obstacles in the way, sncU as the lack 
of a suitable oven, but thesreat, iusm-mountable 
difficulty that caused him to travel over 1,200 
miles for nothing and squander his cash getting 
home again was, tliey Avanted him to make char- 
lotte russe without cream. Yet, the other day I 
weut into tlie ]iastry room of one of the largest 
Chicago hotels and saw there over 150 
individual charlottes standing ready for the din- 
ner, and being apt to observe such things I 
thought a large number wore sliglitly different 
in the color of the cream from the others and 
looked firmer, and the pastry cook guessing my 
question said : "I hadn't enough cream, and had 
to make a cream for the rest " So it shows there 
are ways of making charlotte russe both with 
and without cream, which it will be useful to 
know, for the solid fact of the matter is that at 
public tables the charlottes filled with the vari- 
ous made creams, if they are well and delicately 
made, are received every whit as well as "ihose 
filled with pure whipped cream ; it is rather a 
matter of more or less trouble in making than a 
question of difference of quality, in this and 
the three or four menus next to follow we will 
show the various ways of making charlotte 
russe. 

S.'iS— Charlotte Ku.sse. 

Individual size. White cake cases filieu with 
yellow cream. For the cake take 

10 ounces of granulated sugar. 

12 ounces of white of eggs— 13 whites. 
ounces of flotir. 
2 large teaspoonfnls of cream of tartar. 

Flavoring of vanilla extract 

This is a very delicate white sponge cake. 
Have the ingredients all cold to begin with. 
Put the sugar and white of eggs into a brass 
kettle or deep pan and beat them together with 
the wire egg whisk for about twenty minutes. 
If bealen rapidly in a cool place the mixture 
will then be like good cane frosting. Then add 
the cream of tartar and flavoring and beat a min- 
ute longer, then lay aside the whisk and stir the 
flour in with a spoon. As soon as the flour is 
mixed out of sight it is ready and should be 
baked immediately. 

Lay a sheet of manilla paper on the largest 
baking-pan and spread the cake batter on it only 
dejp enough to hide the paper. Bake about five 
minutes. Lay the sheet-cake downwards on the 
table, wet the paper and take it off. Cut the 
cake into pieces that will fit inside your tin muf- 
fin rings as linings, and small pieces to form the 
bottoms. Small tumblers or cups may answer 
as well where there are no suitable rings. Then 
make the filling. 

353— Koiuaii Cream. 

1 pint of milk. 

.5 ounces of su^'ar. 

1 ounce of gelatine — light weight. 



Small piece of stick cinnamon. 

}4 cupful of thick cream. 

6 yolks of eggs. 

J^ cupful of curaooa, or a wine substitute. 

Set the milk over the side of the fire, with the 
sugar, cinnamon and gelatine in it, and beat 
often with the wine egg whisk till the 
gelatine is all dissolved, which will be at about 
the boiling point. Beat the yolks light, mix 
them in like making custard, allow a few mo- 
ments for it to thicken but not boil, then strain 
into a tin pail or a freezer and set in ice water ; 
when nearly cold whip the cream to froth and 
beat it in and add the curacoa or other flavoring; 
fill up the charlotte cases and set them in the re- 
frigerator to remain till wanted. 



When to be served take the charlottes out of 
the tin rings ; the cream being set will hold them 
together. 



The preceding white sponge cake mixture will 
be enough for half a yard square of sheet cake, 
and a small cake in a mold beside. 



Where there is no cream whatever to be used 
for the purpose after beating up the gelatine 
cream quite light as it cools whip the whites of 
three eggs to froth and mix in by beating. Pour 
it into the cases while fluid enough to run into 
the form. The same cream can of course be 
set in molds without cake. 

MENU NO. XXVI— RECEPTION. 



354— Consomme With Green Feas. 

3 quarts of rich seasoned soup stock. 

1 cupful or a can of French peas. 

To make stock, as it is called before it is 
strained, two plump young chickens should bo 
boiled in a gallon of Avater along with some 
broken up veal bones and a piece of gravy beef, 
etc., the chickens to be tal;en out within an hour 
to be used for patties or salad. Throw into tho 
stockpot after that a teaspoonful of bruised pep- 
percorns, a small bay leaf, half blade of mace, 
a bunch of soup herbs and bunch of parsley. 
When the stock has simmered about three hours 
strain it first into a deep vessel such as a tin pail 
or jar, skim it free from grease, pour it without 
the sediment through a broth napkin spread in a 
colander or thrcmgh a jelly bag twice over to get 
it as clear as possible. Then boil it up asain in 
a clean vessel, add salt to taste, a tablesponnful 
of starch mixed with water, a little burnt sugar 
to make tho consomme of the color of strong 
tea; then wash the green peas in a strainer under 
the hot Avater faucet, and add tbem to the con- 
somme just before serving. The peas must be 
really green. They have a pretty effect in the 
rich, brandy-colored liquor, in which they will 
hardly sink. (See Nos. 118 and 131.) 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



53 



:55— CIiiokKM Fatties, or Rouchees a la Keine. 

1 pint cupful of chicken out in dice. 
1 pint cupful of rich cream sauce. 
SeaaoniugH. 



Yol-au-veut patty caaes. 

Pick the meat from one or two boiled chiok- 
ena, out it into long strips and then acroaa into 
small dice. Put it into a saucepan, season with 
white pepper or cayenne, a grating of uutmeg, 
the juice of half a lemon, salt and an ounce of 
butter. Next pour over it the cream sauce, No. 
165, and let it gently simmer at the back of a 
range or on a brick on the range top till time to 
dish up, then till the patty cases with it. If there 
is no cream sauce ready, it amounts to the aame 
thmg to add a uintof ricii milk and a spoonful 
of thickening to the chicken, care being taken 
not to make it pasty, nor yet so thin that the 
sauce will run out of the patties. 



256 -Vol-au- Vent X'atty Cakes. 

These are shells of pastry baked witlMut the 
iillinga, opened and the meat, etc. , put in after- 
ward. 

Eoll out a piece of puff paste (No. 53) to about 
a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut out tlata 
with a large biacuit cutter, then take a small 
cutter and cut nearly but not quite through the 
middle of each one and bake on a pan in a briak 
oven. The paste rises and the inaide out be- 
ooraea a lid that may be lifted out with a knife 
point. Remove the surplus paste from the in- 
aide, fill with the prepared chicken, put ou the 
lid and ornament with a aprig of paraley. 

Proper cutters for these patties are double, the 
inside cutter edge being lower than the other, so 
that it does not cut clear through ; and the eha pe 
may be oval to fit a dish, or any other shape. A 
round tin cutter may be bent to cut an oval patty. 



But where large numbers are made there is 
something slightly exasperating in the primness 
of these little pies with their little lids, e.S])eoiaily 
when they are cut with a scalloped edge cooky 
cutter, and to get away from their prettiiiess we 
often cut out oval flats, quite thm, without any 
inside out, brush them over with egg and wa(er, 
bake and then split them w'ith a knife, place the 
spoonful of minced chicken on the bottom piece 
and the top crust on top. 



aST-FroBs' Saddles on Toast. 

While the supply of this delicacy is becoming 
greater every year, frogs are still sufficiently 
high priced to be accounted an article of luxury. 
It is very probable that in the course of time the 
frog will take the pla'je in the summer left void 
by the long vacation of the oyster. 

There are two varieties of frogs in market, the 
small ranging in price from about 30 cents to 



150 cents per dozen, and the large at about |1 
to fl..50 per dozen. The prices take a wide 
range and these common figures are only intended 
tp apprise the buyer of the different values of the 
two sorts. A restaurant order requires six of the 
small saddles for each person, while two of the 
large kind are sufficient and contain more meat. 
Only the hind quarters or saddles of frogs are 
used. Those who would be extremely nice in 
their preparation parboil them a few minutes in 
the same kind of stock that fish is boiled in, that 
is water with salt and a little vinegar in it, and 
then take them out and cook them in the various 
ways. Commonly at the restaurants they are 
treated aimply as spring chickens — steeped in 
cold water till wanted, then breaded and fried, 
broiled, stewed, or otherwiae ijrepared. 

Take the saddles out of the water or out of the 
boiling liquor, as the case may be, and roll them 
in flour, then in an egg (beaten a little, with a 
spoonful of water added), and then in cracker 
meal, giving them a good coating, pressing but 
not rubbing off the breading, which will not 
stick a second time. Fry in a pan of hot lard 
froni four to six or eight minutes. 

Cut large square slices of buttered teas; across 
diagonally, making triangirlar pieces ; p'.ace two 
on a diah, the broad bases together in the middle 
and points at the ends of the diah, and froga on 
the toaat in corresponding manner. Oruumeut 
with cut lemons and parsley. Large dishes have 
the frogs placed overlapping down the middle 
like cutlets. 

For a private party prepare fringed, spiral 
paper handlea before the froga are cooked, and 
slip one over the end of each pair of bones 
placed together aimilarly to the fringed paper 
handles on lamb outlets. Directions for making 
these papers will be found at another place. 



258— Stewed Com and Tomatoes. 

Boil twelve tender roasting ears in salted water 
till the milk is set — about fifteen minutes — then 
out the corn off the cob. There will be about a 
heaping pint, according to the size of corn. 

Take three cupfula of peeled tomatoes, out 
them in small pieces, season with talt, pepper 
and butter, and let simmer on the abelf or back 
of the range, or on a brick on the slove top, till 
they are reduced to two cupfula. Then mix the 
corn and tomatoes together, and keep them slowly 
cooking till wanted. Serve as a vegetable, hot. 



259— Fried Macaroni— GenoiSK. 

4 ounces of macaroni. 

3 ounces of cheese. 

1 egg and cracker meal for breading. 

Take the best macaroni in pound papers; 
break the sticlta only ouce in the middle. Throw 
a quarter of a pound into salted water that is 



54 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKlKG SCHOOL. 



already boiling, and let it cook twenty-five min- 
utes. 

Mmoe the cheese fine. Drain the macaroni 
and mix the cheese with it while it is hot, that the 
cheeae may be melted in it. When cold, or 
nearly so, dip each string of macaroni sep- 
arately into the egg (beaten a little 
with a spoonful of water added) and 
then in cracker meal. A short time 
before it is to be served make some fresh lard 
hot in a frying-pan, drop in the macaroni and 
fry about one minute. Drain in a colander, cut 
the strings in two, pile loosely on a dish ; serve 
very hot. 

seO-Esff Salad. 

Border of green, sliced hard-boiled eggs in the 
center and salad dressing poured over. 

Chop heart lettuce, it at hand, or else tender 
cabbage or celery, or a mixture, and season with 
salt, pepper and vinegar, and oil if liked, and 
place it with a teaspoon as a border on the dishes. 
Slice hard-boiled eggs and put four slices to each 
individual dish on edge leaning and overlapping 
in the middle of the green. Pour over the eggs, 
either the salad dressing, made without oil, or 
the mayonaise No. 68. 

861— Cold Roast Ham. 

Steep a small ham in cold water over night if 
convenient, wash the outside in warm water, put 
it on to boil and let it slowly cook about three 
hours. Take off the skin, trim around the 
knuckle bone, and if necessary to make a neat 
shape saw off the bone that protrudes from the 
thick end. Then bake it nearly half an hour. 
Take it out and press ou to the brown surface all 
the cracker meal or powdered dry bread crumbs 
that can be made to adhere and bake again very 
carefully till the breading is handsomely browned 
all over. It may be necessary to baste the bread- 
ing a little with fat enough to barely moisten it. 
When cold put a fringed paper on the clean 
knuckle bone and place the ham on its dish, to be 
sliced cold as wanted. 



868— French Cream Pufl's. 

1 pint of water. 

7 ounces of butter. 

o ounces of sugar. 

lU ounces of flour. 

() eggs— or 7 if small. 

:i teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract. 

Bull the water with the sugar and butter in it 
in a deep saucepan. Drop in the flour all at 
once and stir the mixture over the fire till you 
have a firm, well-eooked paste. Take it from 
the fire and work in the eggs one at a time 
with a spoon, and beat the paste well 
against the side of the saucepan. Add the 
vanilla with the last egg. The more this paste 
is beaten the more the puffs will expand in the 
i)Ven. Grease the baking pans and then rub 



them clean and bright. Place the paste in oval 
lumps like walnuts with plenty of room between, 
using a lady-finger sack and tube, or else a 
spoon and knife to shape them. Bake in a slack 
oveu about twenty minutes, The puffs will be 
hollow. Cut them open at tlie side and iiU with 
pastry cream, or, more suitably for these, with 
fruit jelly. 

263— Glazed Eclairs, 

The puffs of the preceding recipe dipped into 
sugar glaze of different colors and flavors. 



864— Quickest and Easiest Iclna: or Glaze for 
Cakes. 

8 ounces of fine powdered sugar. 

2 whites of eggs. 

Flavoring extracts. 

Mix the sugar and whites together in a bowl 
by merely stirring them with a spoon, cold. Use 
part of it wbi\eaud semi-transparent as it is, and 
add a drop of prepared cochineal or carmine to 
the rest, and also a teaspoonful of lemon juice 
to brighten the color. Dip puffs or eclairs and 
small cakes into the glaze, and allow them an 
hour in a warm place to dry. Flat cakes spread 
with a knife. 



365— Yellow Glaze or loins;. 

The same as preceding, but the sugar moist- 
ened with three yolks of eggs instead of two 
whites. Flavor with lemon. 

866— Neapolitan Ice Cream, or Glace Napoli- 
taine. 

Three different colored ices placed in lay- 
ers in a brick-shaped mold, and frozen solid 
enough to be cut in slices. 

Neapolitan molds can be bought at the bouse 
furnishing stores. They are of about the size 
and shape of a cigar box ; both top and bottom 
can be taken off ; some have the top lid stamped 
in a fruit shape like a jelly mold. 

There is no particular rule as to what kind of 
ices shall be used ; they may be caramel ice 
cream, which is brown, or chocolate, coffee or 
burnt almond, or white pure cream or yellow 
custard, with a pink, red or pm-ple fruit ice for 
the middle layer, For example: 

Make the yellow boiled custard No- 153, but 
half the quantity may suffice. Also make the 
white ice cream No. 205, or a corn starch cream, 
quite white, and for the red make the following. 



867— Concord Grape Ice. 

4 ounces of ripe Concord grapes — a cupfuL 
1 pound of sugar. 
1 quart of water. 
Juice of one lemon. 

Mash the grapes and sugar together raw, add 
the lemon juice and water, strain into a freezer 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



55 



with all the pulp obtainable and freeze at once. 
The lemon juice brigbtena the color. 



Small quantities like the preceding can be 
frozen in tin pail3 set in a freezing mixture of 
finely pounded ice and salt in a tub, if kept con- 
stantly in motion, though proper freezers, of 
course, are better. 

When all three are frozen lay a sheet of thin 
paper on the bottom lid of the mold to make a 
tight fit; place the mold, spread in the three 
layers with a spoon evenly, put on paper, then 
the lid ; fill the crevice along the edges of the 
papers with a little melted butter to keep out the 
salt water, then put the mold down in the f reez - 
ing mixture, cover it well with ice and salt and 
let it remain two or three hours. 

When to be served wash off the mold in cold 
water and wipe dry, take off the lids and paper 
and place the tri-colored brick of cream on a 
folded napkin on a dish, or on a silver dish hav- 
ing a perforated bottom drainer. 



Where a large quantity of this fashionable ice 
is made to serve at dinners that last for hours 
the bricks are all taken out of the molds early, 
wrapped in manilla paper and packed in a largo 
ioe cream freezer, there to remain frozen until 
they are taken out one by one as wanted. 



368— .Ansel Food. 

The fanciful name for white sponge cake — the 
whitest cake made. 

The angel food recipe was given sub rosa at 
No. 2.53. Having made the cake mixture as 
' there directed, take bright tin molds hav- 
ing large inside tubes, and nearly fill without 
previously greasing them. Bake about twenty- 
five minutes in a slack oven. Let the cakes re- 
main in the mold until cold, then shake them 
out. This cake is better when a day or two old 
than when freshly baked. 

Make the quick icing. No. 2C4, and spread over 
the cakes. 



Make like cake frosting, No. 60, with choco- 
late mixed in. 

8 ounces of granulated sugar. 

3 whites of eggs. 

3 ounces, or a li*tle less, of grated chocolate. 

A pinch of cream of tartar or other acid. 

Tanilla flavoring. 

Use common chocolate, and have it cold to 
grate. Beat the sugar and two whites together 
in a bowl with a wooden paddle for about fifteen 
minutes, when, if it has been kept cold, the mix- 
ture will be white and firm enough to draw up in 
points. Then add the other white and beat five 



minutes, then a pinch of acid or lemon juice, 
flavoring and the grated chocolate. Stir to mix. 
Drop pieces large as walnuts on baking pans 
slightly greased, and bake in a very slack oven. 
Tbe baking is the critical part. They need heat 
enough to cause them to swell and become 
rounded and almost hollow, but not enough to 
melt or color. They will slip oft' the pans when 
cold. 



MENU NO. XXVII— GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER 



3~0-LittIe Neck Clams— Raw on Shell. 

Wash the clams m water, using a brush, and 
wipe dry. Open, and loosen the clams from 
both shells. Serve five on a plate on the half 
shell with half a lemon placed in the center. 
Oyster crackers and a small dish of finely shred 
cabbage at the side. 

371— AiKlalusirtll Soup. 

This is a brown tomato soup highly seasoned. 
3 quarts of soup stock. 
1 pint of dry stewed tomatoes — 3 cupfuls. 
1 cupful of minced soup vegetables, mostly 
onions. 
1 small capful of butter. 
The same of flour. 



Make the soup stock rich with stewing pieces 
of beef, out small, and some veal or veal bones 
previously roasted brown to give it color. 

Fry the minced vegetables in the butter in a 
frying-pan, and when the butter has become 
light brown mix the flour in and set the pan in- 
side the oven for the mixture to brown thor- 
oughly without getting the least burnt. After 
that scrape the contents of the pan into the soup 
stock. Throw in eight cloves, half a bay leaf, a 
teaspoonful of black pepper and a slice of 
broiled ham. Let simmer half an hour, then 
strain the stock through a gravy strainer into the 
soup pot, add the tomatoe3,'rubbed also through 
the strainer, and set the soup on the side of the 
range to slowly boil for half an hour longer, dur- 
ing which time skim off the grease as it rises at 
one side. Season with salt The soup should 
be of the consistency of thin brown sauce. 



STS— Broiled I'ouipano. 

The pompano is a Southern sea fish somewhat 
rare and high priced. It has a decided flavor of 
its own that suggests the taste of black walnuts 
when broiled. It has the flattened shape of the 
sunfish, and scales almost as fine as those of the 
mackerek 

Scrape the skin thoroughly. The smallest 
size, weighing about one pound, may be broiled 
whole in the wire broiler previously greased. 
Split the large ones down the back and through 
the head. Broil the cut side first — eight or ten 
minutes — brush over with fresh butter and 



b6 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



dred;,'e with salt and pepper, then broil the skin 
side till di)De. Serve ou a hot dish. Squeeze a 
little lemon juice over, and serve cold tartar 
sauce ill a sauce boat separately, or for indi- 
vidual orders, the hot tartar sauce in the same 
dish. 



273-Tartar .Sauce— Hot. 

J^ cupful of vinegar. 

1 teaspoonful of tinely minced onion. 

1 ounce of butter. 

Same of olive oil — a cooldng spoonful. 

Bait and cayenne. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

Little minced pickled gherkin. 

Boil the onion in the vinegar a few minutes, 
throw in the butter and yollis and beat until it 
cooks thick and like softened butter, about a 
minute. Take it from the lire and beat in the 
oil gradually. Add the seasonings. 



374-Cliapin & Gore's .Soanisli .Stew. 

3 tat pullets, large but young. 

6 green pepper pods — or 1 or 3 red. 

1 good sized onion. 

1 slice of broiled ham. 

1 can of louiatoes — or a quart. 

1 can of French peas. 

Salt and some more pepper. 

Cut the chickens into joints, and stew them 
till the bones could be pulled out of the meat, 
in just enough stock or water to cover them, to- 
gether with the six peppers, the onion and slice 
of ham. Then take out the chicken ou to a large 
dish, and keep it hot, strain out the pods, etc., 
put the tomatoes into the liquor and stew down 
thick, seasoning with salt and perhaps a little 
cayenne, if the pepper pods have not had full 
eilect. Make the peas hot in a saucepan sepa- 
rately. Pour the thick-stewed tomatoes over the 
chicken, and strew the peas all over the surface. 



375— niaslied Potatoes in Form. 

Mash some potatoes with butter and salt, but 
with a very scant addition of milk, lest they be 
too soft. Make up in two pineapple Shapes, mark 
the outsides with the back of a knife, brush over 
with a little egg and water — not to make them 
yellow, but only to bind and glaze — and b^ke 
light brown on pie pans in a hot oven. Send in 
very hot on flat dishes. 



376-Clab Salad. 

6 boiled crabs, common size. 

1 cupful of finely minced white cabbage. 

}^ cupful of salad dressing. 

Pick the meat out of the crabs, cut all that can 
be cut into pieces of even size and rub the rest 
smooth in salad dressing, adaing a little mustard. 
Mix cabbage and dressing thoroughly, and the 
crab meat mix in lightly without breaking the 



pieces. Fill the crab shells with the salad and 
place them on a dish previously prepared with a 
bed of cress or other green. 



877-Kuiu Omelet— For Three or Four. 

6 eggs. 

A third as much milk. 

}^ cupful of rum. 

Powdered sugar. 

Put the eggs and milk and a teaspoonful of 
powdered sugar in a bowl together, and beat 
enough to mix but not to make the omelet too 
light. Set the rum where it will get warm. Put 
a teaspoonful of the clear oil of melted butter in 
the large frying-pan, and pour in the omelet be- 
fore the pan gets hot enough to make it stick 
ou the bottom. An omelet should not 
be cooked through and the brown 
outside rolled in, but should be 
shaken and shaped in the further side of the 
pan, as soon as the edge is cooked enough to fall 
over from the edge into the middle shaken fur- 
ther over', so that the omelet is not a cake but a 
soft cooked mass with thick middle and pointed 
ends. A broad hiaded knife is useful to help 
sliape it. 

Make an iron wire red hot in the fire. 

When the omelet is done slip it on to a hot 
dish, dredge the top with powdered sugar, mark 
it with bars across with the hot v/ire laid a mo- 
ment on the sugared top. Pour the rum around 
and set it ou fire and send it in. 

The sugaring and marking generally causes 
too much delay for individual omelets in large 
numbers, and has to be omitted in such cases. 



378— Charlotte Kusse. 

Two- quart size in a mold Lining of lady 
fingers and filling of maraschino cream. 

2}4 pints of thin cream. 

1 teacupful of maraschino. 

7 ounces of sugar. 

1 package of Cox's gelatine — 114 ounces. 

Put the extra half pint of cream in a small 
saucepan and the gelatine and sugar with it, set 
over the fire and beat wjth the wire egg whisp 
till the gelatine is all dissolved — the quicker the 
better. Pour the maraschino into the cream, 
then strain in the contents of the saucepan, set 
the whole in a pan of ice water with salt in it 
and whip the cream mixture till it begins to set, 
when pour it into the prepared mold. 

The mold should be made ready beforehand. 
A two-quart jelly mold will do, or a cake mold. 
Line it with lady fingers placed edge to edge, the 
edges wetted with white of egg. Ornament the 
top on turning out with whipped cream or 
meringue. 

The less gelatine such creams as the preceding 
can be made with, and the lighter and spongier. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



57 



they are the better, but as they are then the 
more liable to break out of shape when turned 
out, only shallow molds should be employed, the 
ends of the cakes trimmed off level with the 
cream and the charlottes kept very cold till the 
last 

MENU NO.XXVIII,GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. 



a79-Oyster Soup— For Twelve. 

1 quart of oysters, or 1 can. 

1 quart of clear broth or soup stock. 

1 quart of milk. 

4 ounces of fresh butter. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 

Same of white pepper or cayenne. 

1^ cupful of crushed oyster crackers. 

If there is no good clear broth at hand water 
will do instead. The things to be guarded against 
are not to get the milk curdled by boiling it with 
the oysters, and to avoid having the skum from 
the oyster liquor floating on top of the soup. 
Boil the stock (or water) in one saucepan and the 
milk in another. Pour a ladleful of the hot 
liquor over the oysters in a colander, and when 
they are drained boil their liquor and what has 
run through in a little saucepan by itself and 
skim it, then strain it into the soup stock. Put 
in the oysters, and just as it begins to boil take 
from the fire, stir in the rolled crackers for thick- 
ening, the butter, salt and pepper and then the 
milk. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley on top 
when about to serve it. The oysters should not 
be allowed to become hard-boiled. 



Take about three pounds of the middle cut of 
a small Balrnon, and, having scaled and cleaned 
it, put it onto cook in water that is already boil- 
ing and strongly salted. The fish should be 
placed on the drainer or false bottom of the fish 
kettle, but where there is no such utensil the 
precaution should be taken to wrap and pin it 
in a buttered napkin, that it may come out of the 
water unbroken. Let it cook very gently at the 
side of the range for three-quarters of 
an hour. Take it up, remove the skin, 
and place it carefully on a hot dish. At 
tbemoment that it is sent to table pour over it 
some ot the fresh butter sauce of the next recipe, 
fill the remaining space around it in the dish 
with a pint of potato boullettes, and send :u 
some more of the sauce in a sauce-boat 



281— Scotch Fish Sauce. 

Set 8 ounces of the best butter, the juice of 
one lemon, a pinch of cayenne and a tablespoou- 
f 111 of chopped parsley in a bowl in a place warm 
enough to soften the butter, but not melt it, and 



when the sauce is wanted for use stir together 
until creamy. 

383 — Potato Boulettes. 

Scoop balls the size of cherries out of large 
potatoes with a Parisian potato spoon or scoop 
(to be had at the furnishing stores) and set a 
pint of them on to stew in butter, or a mixture 
of butter and lard. They are not to bo fi-ied, 
but only to be simmered in the melted butter 
until it begins to fry and brown the bottom ot 
the saucepan. Stir them when first put in lest 
they stick on the bottom and get a scorched 
taste. When done drain and set them in a pan in 
the oven to acquire a very slight color. Spriukie 
salt and parsley and shake up. 

The butter remaining can be used in cooking. 
The potatoes scooped full of holes will do to 
steam and mash. 



383— Double Tenderloin Steaks. 

Cut a fillet of beef into S-inch lengths, remove 
enough of the skin that incases the outside to 
allow the steaks to spread when flattened, but 
be careful to retain a good border of the fat as 
well. Beat down with the side of the cleaver to 
make large steaks nearly an inch thick. 

Fifteen minutes before they are to be served 
brush over both sides with the butter brush and 
set the steaks to broil over clear coals. They 
will be medium well done in 8 or 10 minutes. 
Take them from the gridiron without spilling 
the gravy that collects on top, place on a hot 
dish and garnish with out lemons and chip po- 
tatoes. 

384-EsE Plant Fried in Batter. 

Slice the egg plant, without paring, into 
four or five, throwing away only the end parings. 
Boil the slices in salted water a few minutes to 
extract the strong taste. Drain, dip them iu the 
frying batter of the next recipe, and fry them 
brown in a pan of hot lard. Keep the slices a 
minute or two spread on a pan tilted to one side 
in the oven, to become free from grease and crisp 
on the outside. 

38S-FryiiiE Batter lor Eke Plamt, Fruit 
Fritters, Etc. 

1^ cupful of milk. 

1 egg. 

a tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 

1 tablespoonful of syrup or molasses. 

1 cupful of flour. 

3^ teaspoonful ot baking powder. 

Put all into a pan together, the flour last and 
the powder in it, and a pinch of salt, and work 
them together with a spoon. 

It should be a batter that is thin enough to 
coat the article dipped iu it without seeming to 
make it all dough when fried. 



58 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



386— Fat tlver Cake, or Pain de Foies de 
Foulardes. 

8 ounces of poultry livers. 

4 ounces of fat hara or salt pork. 

1 ounce of lean cooked ham. 

}4 cupful of sherry. 

}^ a bayleaf, pepper, salt, snap of mace. 



4 ounces of bread panada (rolls soaked in water 
and thet. squeezed dry in a cloth). 

1 raw egg. 

3 hard-boiled yolks. 

1 corned sheep's tongue or part of a large 
tongue, cooked. 

A spoonful or two of chopped mushrooms. 

Aspic jelly to garnish with. 

This is an article of the head-cheese order, not 
so formidable on trial as the number of ingredi- 
ents make it appear. In the first part are the 
articles to be cooked together, the others are to 
be added to the paste afterwards. 

Steep the poultry livers in cold water to whit- 
en them, and remove all gall stains, which make 
them bitter. Setallthe inij;redients or the first part 
to simmer in a saucepan with the lid on at the 
back part of the range, and let remain till a 
convenient time, or two or three hours. Then 
mash to a paste. The livers, etc., should be 
nearly dry in the saucepan, but not at all fried or 
browned. 

Mix the raw eggs with the panada, and these 
with the pounded liver. Press through a sieve. 
Cut up the red tongue, the hard-boiled yolks and 
mushrooms, if you have them, and mix these in 
the paste. Bake about an hour with thin slices 
of fat pork first laid in the bottom of the pan or 
mold, and also on top of the liver cake, and a 
buttered paper over that, and the mold set in a 
shallow pan of water in the oven. 

The paste, as made above, can be taken from 
the pan or mold, freed from fat and decorated 
like boned fowls. 



We seem to need some mild laws to make 
people like such elaborate compounds as the 
foregoing (which are considered very fine in cer- 
tain places across the seas and are beautifully 
incased in jelly and oruamented), or at least to 
make them eat them, it being a pity that the 
trouble of making them good should be all for 
nothing. 

There were some dishes of the sort put up by 
the bet3t French cooks in Chicago at their ban- 
quet last winter, and no doubt but they were as 
good as could be made, besides being extremely 
ornaraen^al, yet the way the Philistines, after 
tasting with their knife points, pushed 
thom away and took their plain ham and beef 
instead was sad for the artists to see. However, 
our fat liver cake is a modified preparation, and 
instead of truffles has yolks of eegs in it which 
show up when it is cut as raisins do in a cake. 



It is nice for a cold luncheon at any time, if care- 
fully made and kept, and served cold and firm. 



38T-Lobstel- .Salad. 

Pick the meat out of one or two lobsters, all 
but the uneatable portion, cracking the claws 
carefully to get the red meat out in large por- 
tions, and line a melon shaped moid with it, the 
best pieces at the sides. 

Mix some finely-minced salad material — 
either tender white cabbage, with a green 
celery leaf or two mixed in, or heart 
lettuce, or celery with salad dressing (No. 350) 
sufficient to make it buttery and thick enough to 
keep shape. Fill the inside of the mold with 
this and press it into the lobster lining. Turn 
out carefully on to a dish. Spread thick mayon- 
naise upon the top and decorate with olives and 
yolks of egg^, and the edge of the dish with the 
lobster, clams and horns and parsley. 



3SS— Frozen Alarascliino Funcli. 

1 pound of sugar. 

1 quart of water. 

1 lemon — juice only. 

1 orange — juice only. 

}4 pint (or more) of maraschino. 

o whites of eggs. 

Mix all, except the whites, together cold, strain 
into a freezer, freeze as usual, whip the whites 
firm and stir in and beat up well and freeze 
again. It is a snow-white ice, rich and tenacious 
like pulled candy. The fruit juices are not 
essential, but an improvement. 



389— Charlotte Russe. 

Individual size, cases of yellow cake filled 
with a white cream. 

For the cases make sponge cake batter (No. 
212) and spread it on sheets of paper very thinly. 
Bake about five or six minutes. Take off the 
paper by dampening it with a brush dipped in 
water and cut the sheet of cake into pieces of the 
right size to line tin muffin rings and small 
pieces to push down to form the bottoms. 

The rings should be two and a half inches in 
diameter and one and a half inches deen. 



390— Bavarian Cream— Ordinary. 

Three oupfuls of rich milk. 

One cupful of cream thick enough to whip. 

Six ounces of sugar — a small cupf nl. 

One ounce of gelatine — nearly a package of the 
shred. 

Three whites of eggs. 

Flavoring. 

Bet the milk over the fire with the sugar and 
gelatine in it, and stir till the gelatine is all dis- 
solved. Do not let it boil. Strain into a freezer 
placed in ice Avater, and when nearly cold enough 
to set add half the cup of cream, beat ten min- 
utes, whip the six whites firm, stir that in and 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



59 



bcLit the cream five minutes more. Flavor while 
beating with lemon, vanilla, almond or other 
extract, or with maraschino. 

The cream makes the preparation richer, but 
is not indispensable. 

Fill the charlotte cases vritU the Bavarian 
cream, and set them in the refrigerator to re- 
main till wanted. Then take them out of the 
rings and place them on a dish. Pile a spoonful 
of whipped cream on top of each one. 



391— l»ouiid Fruit Cake. 

14 ounces of sugar. 

14 ounces of butter. 

11 eggs. 

18 ounces of flour. 

Mix the above ingredients together the same 
as pound cake, then add to it: 

2 teaspoonfuls of mixed ground spices, mostly 
cinnamon and mac. 

1 lemon grated and squeezed, or some lemou 
extract, 

1 pound of seedless raisins. 

1 pound of currants. 

l{ pound of citron. 

Mix the fruit together and dust it well with 
flour before stirring it into the batter. The 
cakes require from 1 to 13^ hours to bake. 



MENU NO. XXIX.— BREAKFAST. 



293- Oatmeal Mush. 

4 cupfuls of water. 

^^ cupful of oatmeal, large measure. 

1 small teaspoonful of salt. 

Boil the water, sprinkle in the oatmeal while 
stirring with tlie other hand, and when it boils up 
again put the lid on the saucepan and set it at the 
back of the stove or on a brick to simmer with 
the steam shut in for three hours. Stir it from 
the bottom occasionally. 



The large grained oatmeal is the best and the 
best liked ; the finer oatmeal is ground the poorer 
it is and the harder to cook. There are several 
grades sold. If the large sort of oatmeal is 
mashed like rice it will scarcely ever burn. 

When mush of any kind has become burned on 
the bottom, instead of making the whole potful 
taste by stirring it up, change it into another ves- 
sel by inverting it without the interference of a 
spoon. The upper part will seldom be the worse 
for the accident if changed immediately. 

Serve the mush in individual deep dishes, and 
a bowl set in a plate and a pitcher of milk or 
cream with it. 



chickens, the halves are small enouj^h ; if larg:% 
cut again into quarters. Wash well, and let the 
pieces lie awhile ia fresh, cold water. 

If only one or two chickens, put a spoonful of 
butter and a spoonful of clear drippings, cu- the 
fat of fried salt pork into a baking pan that 
tlie chickens will just lie in without overlapping; 
make it hot, shake the water from the pieces 
of chicken, dip them in Hour ou both 
sides and lay them in the hot lat 
with the skin downwards. Dredge liberally 
with fine salt and good home-ground 
black pepper, that will flavor without making 
the chicken look dingy. Shut up in a hot oven, 
let cook a few minutes, then baste well. When 
the upper side is brown turn the pioce.^ over 
and brown the other. 

The management that makes chickens done 
this way snch good eating lies m so covering the 
bottom of the pan with the pieces that they are 
lightly browned all over before it has quite dried 
up all the moisture that runs from them or be- 
gan to burn; the chickens remain moist and 
juicy. 

Take out the pieces onto a hot dish Pour off 
most of the clear grease from the light brown 
flour and gravy sticking to the bottom of the pan ; 
put in a cup of milk and let it boil up. The 
dredging of the chicken sufficiently seasons the 
gravy, as the flour they are dipped in thickens it. 



393— Spring Ciilcken, Maryland Style. 

Split the chickens in two by cutting down the 
back and then through the breast; if small 



394— Poached JEarffS. 

It is no trouble to poach eggg handsomely if 
two or three rules are observed. 

Have a roomy vessel with plenty of water, the 
frying-pan shape is good, but it is not deep 
enough. Have a little salt in the water. Never 
let the water boil furiously after the eggs are in, 
as that breaks them: keep it gently simmering at 
the side. 

The eggs break and are wasted because when 
first dropped they go heavily to the hot bottom 
and there sticl;, to prevent which set the water 
in motion by stirring it around with a spoon. 
The eggs dropped iu and carried around a mo- 
ment and the white cooks sufficiently to prevent 
adhesion. 

Break the eggs carefully into little dishes and 
drop into the water one at a time. Take them 
out with a perforated ladle. 

Serve either well drained in a small deep dish 
and a speck of butter on top or else laid neatly 
on a trimmed slice of buttered toast. 

295— Fl'ied Sweet I'otatoes. 

Cut sweet notatoes into slips not thicker than a 
pencil, and throw them into hot iard in a frying- 
pan. They are done when they float in the lard. 
Being sweet, they are apt to get an unpleasantly 
dark color if not watched and will fry best with 
the lard only moderately hoti 



60 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



*/:96— Boston Haht;d Bpans. 

Live and learn. The adfertiaevs of the canned 
beans put forth a statement that seemed absurdly 
brazen-faced to some of us when they said that 
beans put up in Boston, it was well 
known, have a superior flavor to 
beans put up anywhere else — as if beans 
could be anything more or less than beans wher- 
ever they might hail from. However, we have 
since seen it stated by another authority that 
10,000 bai'rel.3 of beans per month are cooked in 
Boston, which is a much larger amount than 
New York consumes, and Boston bakers say the 
New Yorkers do not soak their beans sufficiently 
to make them good. The advertisements may 
be right, after all, for, as is well known, seeds 
cut in soak till the process ot growth begins 
change starch to sugar and acquire a sweet taste, 
as is the case of barley when it changes to malt. 

Pick over and wash a pint of beans, and lei 
them steep in water for twenty-four hours. Put 
them into a two-quart earthen jar, fill up with 
water ana bake in a brisk oven about eight hours, 
or all niaht, to have them warm for breakfast. 
Two hours before they are to be taken out put 
into the jar a small tablespoonful of molasses, 
the same of salt, and a square block of salt pork. 
Where there is no brick oven the jar may be set 
in a large iron pot containmg water, and baked 
in that manner in the stove during the afternoon 
and evening, and made hot again in the morn- 
ing. 



!S97— Boston Brown Breaa, Teast-Kaised. 

At No. 81 we had brown bread made with bak- 
ing powder, and that may be made as well with 
buttermilk and soda. This is the same thing 
made with yeast. The scalding of the meal is a 
great improvement to the quality over cold mix- 
ing. 

1 pound of corn meal— about 3 cupfula 

1 pint of boiling water — 3 cupfula. 

J^ cupful of black molasses. 

1 cupful of cold water. 

1 cupful of yeast, or a yeast cake in water. 

J^ pound of either rye or graham flour. 

}^ pound of white flour, a heaping pint. 

Salt. 

Pour the Lolling water over the cornmeal in a 
pan and mix, throw in a teaspoonful of salt, add 
the molasses and cold water, then the yeast and 
then the two kinds of Hour. Line two sheet-iron 
brown bread paila with greased paper, put in the 
dough and let rise from one to two hours, then 
bake or eteam for five hours. If steamed, bake 
the loaves afterward long enough to form a 
light crust. 

A good sort of bread is made as above with a 
pound of graham sifted through a common flour 
sieve to remove the coarse bran, and the white 
flour omitted ; or with all rye flour and no gra- 
ham or wbite. Care should be taken not to scald 



the yeast by adding it to the hot meal before the 
cold water. When this kind of bread is sticky 
when sliced it shows it was made up too wet 
When the loaves come out hollow or caved in it 
shows too much fermentation. 



398-Fried Apples. 

Fried apples with salt pork is the restaurant 
dish, but there is no particular need of the pork 
in ordinary, unless when the fried slices are left 
over from making fat for cooking chickens 
in. Mice good ripe apples across the core with- 
out paring, throwing away only the end slices, 
and fry five or six slices at a time flat in a large 
frying-pan with no more pork fat or butter than 
just enough to cover the bottom. When the 
slices are brown on one side turn over with a 
knife. This is the only way to have the apples 
really nice, though, it being too slow foranum 
ber of people, they are commonly tbro\vn in 
quantities into a dripping-pan and done in the 
oven, when it depends upon the luck and careful 
draining from grease whether they come out 
good. With some kinds of apples it is an ad- 
vantage to dip the slices in flour before frying. 
Both methods should be tried. 

Serve the fried slices neatly placed in flat indi- 
vidual dishes. 



^99— Buckwheat Cakes. 

1 heaping cupful of buckwheat flour. 

2 cupfuls of warm water. 

l{ cupful of yeast, or piece of compressed 
yeast dissolved. 

1 small teaspooufull of salt 

2 tablespoonful of syrup. 
Same of melted lard. 

Make a sj)onge or batter over night of the 
warm water, yeast and flour. In the morning 
add the enriching ingredients; beat up well, and 
bake thin cakes on a griddle. 

Most people like buckwheat cakes with a little 
cornmeal mixed in the batter. Eggs are not 
needed except when accidentally the batter fer- 
ments too much, when an egg will bind and 
make the cakes easier to bake. Serve with but- 
ter and syrup. Naturalists say that this is the 
kind of grub that makes the butterfly. 



300— Cookies— A Kicb Kind. 

X pound of sugar. 

J^ pound of butter. 

6 eggs. 

1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder. 

l}{ pounds of flour, or enough to make soft 
dough. 

Cream the butter and sngar together the same 
as for pound cake. Beat the eggs and mix them 
in, then the powder, add lemon or cinnamon 
flavoring, then flour Let the dough, after it 
has been patted smooth, stand on the table a 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



61 



few minutes before rolling it ou*. Sift sugar over 
tlie sheet of dough before cutting out the 
cakes. Another good kind less rich was given at 
No. 11. 



MENU NO. XXX.— LUNCHEON. 



301-Colisi>mme aiix Pates d'ltalie. 

3 quarts of rich soup stock. 

A shank of veak 

A small knuckle-bone of boiled ham. 

2 or 3 tomatoes. 

3 tablespoonfuls of alphabet pastes. 
Salt and pepper. 

Take about 3 quarts of soup stock, as com- 
monly made by boiliiig any kind of fresh meat 
bouf'S and fragments, and a small bunch of 
v.jgetables in water, and to give it color and rich- 
uess roast a veal shank or other veal bones 
nicely brown in the oven, basting with a little 
butter if convenient to help the coloring, 
and then boil the roasted veal in 
the stock. Add, for flavoring the ham bone, 
tomatoes broken in nieces and perhaps a little 
minced onion, if not ah'eady in the stock. Put 
in also a teaspoonfal of black pepper and the 
same of salt. When these additions have been 
cooked in the stock abont an hour strain it off into 
a jar or other deep vessel, take off the grease, 
and when the coasomme thus made has settled, 
pour it through either a broth napkin or jelly 
bag without the sediment, then set it over the 
fire to get hot again. 

Boil the Italian pastes gently in water for not 
more than fifteen minutes, drain off and put the 
pastes into the consomme. For directions for 
the super-elariticatioii of consommes and thick- 
ening — which is not ordinarily necessary — see 
Nos. lis, 131 and 254 



302— To Carl Celery. ' 

The tops of the stalks of celery are made 
to curl outward for ornamental purposes 
by slitting them with a penknife as closely 
as the fringe is desired to be fine, and the slits 
should all end at an even line. Where a large 
amount of celery is used every day set 
on the tables in celery glasses. A kind of 
rake is used instead of the pen- 
knife, made by driving a number of 
the three-edged sacking needles of the smallest 
size through a soft piece of cigar box wood. The 
celery ends are combed with this and set in 
glasses of ice-water to curl at leisure. 

303-L.r)bsier in the Shell. 

Keep the lobster on ice till wanted. Crack the 
clams, cut in two lengthwise, then across, and 
servo the quarters with crisp lettuce or other 
green in the dish, and oil and other condiments 
iu the casters. 



Much the same as to the filling as the 
chicken patties No. 3.5.5, but brown sauce m- 
stead of cream sauce is used. 

1 pmt of chicken cut in dice. 

1 pint of blown chicken gravy. 

K< cupful of mushrooms cut in dice seasonings. 

Light rolls or mulBns (No. 2.2fi) cut in cup 
shapes, hollowed out and fried light browu. 

Remove the brown skin from a roast chicken, 
cut the meat into squares, season with i:)epper 
and with salt, according to the saltuess of the 
gravy, mix with the gravy and let simmer to- 
gether five minutes. Fill the shells of fried 
bread just as they are to be served. Garnish 
with a sprig of jjarsley or friof;ed celery. 

To make the chicken gravy — supposing none 
from roast chicken or veal on hand — boil th.^ 
hones of the chicken in a little soup stock, browu 
a spoonful of fresh butter and the same of flour 
together in a frying pan, add the chicken liquor 
to it, stir well, let boil at the side of the range 
and skim, then strain free from lumps and mi.^ 
the chicken with it, as above stated. Send in hoi. 



305— KLssoles of Macaroni. 

These are little rolls of macaroni with cheese 
cooked, made cold, then breaded and fried. It 
is necessary to boil the macaroni in full ieugth 
sticks that the tubes may be kept clear and open. 

8 or 10 sticks of macaroni — about 4- ounces. 

3 ounces of cheese and little butter and milk. 

1 egg and cracker meal for breading. 

Roll up the sticks of macaroni (pound paper 
length) in a pudding cloth, pin in four or five 
places without quite closing the ends, as the 
macaroni will swell and lengthen in cooking, 
and boil it in a long vessel, like a drip- 
ping-pan, in salted water for twenty-five 
minutes, then set it away to get cold. 
Chop the cheese, add }-< ounce of butter and 2 
tablespoonfuls of milk and melt together in a 
frying-pan without letting it boil. Take the 
macaroni out of the cloth and dip and roll it in 
the melted chciese. It may have to be cut in two 
for convenient handling. Afterward roll it in 
the egg mi.-cod with a spoonful of water, then in 
cracker meal and fry it in hot lard. Cut in 2^4 
inch lengths to serve. Send in hot May have 
a good tomato sauce poured under or a garnish 
of finely grated cheese placed as a border in the 
dish. 

306— Boned Turkey. 

Singe and pick over a fat young turkey, and 
without otherwise opening it, cut through the 
skin along the whole length of the back, and 
with the point of a knife go on cutting the meat 
from the boue on both sides until the hip joints 
and wing joints are reached. Chop through 
these with the heavy end of a carving iii'ifo, 



G2 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING ScHOOL. 



severing the legs and -wings from the carcass at 
tlie socliets, and continue cutting close 
to the breaat bone, pulling out the back 
lione as soon as it ia free and tak- 
ing out the gizzard and entrails, and on 
the ridge of the breast bone cut carefully and a 
little into the bone to avoid cutting the skin. 
After that bone the legs and wings half way and 
chop off the rest. The meat of the legs and 
wings ia to be tucked into the body, which, when 
done up, will be a smooth cushion shape. 

Then wash the turkey in cold water and dry it 
ou a cloth. Spread it out with the skin side, 
down on the table and cover with the force- 
meat of the next recipe; draw the two sides 
together, sew with twine, put it into a pud- 
ding cioth previously buttered and tie and 
pin it securely. Boil the turkey in salted broth 
or water contaiaing the bones and any other 
trimmings left from the forcemeat besides for 
from two to three hours, according to size. Let 
it cool in the liquor it is boiled in, then iiress be- 
tween two dishes with a weight on top. take it 
out of the cloth, trim, pull out the twine, wipe 
off grease and jelly with a napkin dipped in hot 
water, and at last brush over with clear, melted 
butter two or three times and keep it cold. To 
be thinly sliced and served cold ornamented with 
aspic jelly in the dishes. 

307 — ForCfincat for Boned Turkey and 
CliJcki'n. 

The quantity of this recipe is sufficient for 
one medium-sized turkey that will slice into 
twenty-five individual dishes. For a large 
chicken the amounts may be one-half. This 
makes about three pounds of choice meat, in ad- 
dition to the turkey. 

3 hens, boiled tender. 

6 ounces of fat salt pork. 

6 ounces of butter. 

6 ounces of white bread crumba. 

2 raw eggs. 

8 hard boiled eggs. 

1 cupful of broth or water. 

1 lemon. 

Salt and pepper. 

Take the dark meat of the fowls, cut it in very 
small dice and keep it separate. Take off the 
white meat, chop tine and then pound to a soft 
paste. Throw in the fat porli minced, the tea- 
apoonful of pepper and salt and the bread 
crumbs and mis together, and soften the butter 
and stir in. Mix the two raw egga with the cup 
of broth and add the juice of the lemon, and 
with this mixture moisten the forcemeat It ia 
now ready for use. 

Stew over the turkey about half the dark meat 
mince, and over that spread half the white 
forcemeat. Cut the yolks of the hard hniled 
egKS in quarters and scatter some over the layer 
of forcemeat, then the rest of the minced dark 



meat, then the remaining forcemeat and egg 
yolks. Do up the boned turkey thus filled as 
directed in the preceding recipe. 

When sliced cold the above shows little dark 
squares set in a white meat, all spotted through 
with the yellow egg yoiks. Thougii lengthy in 
directions there is nothing difficult and the dish 
ia one of the finest possible. 

308-Oy.ster Salad. 

a dozen fresh oysters. 

3 heads of celery with part of their green tops. 

About half as much tender white cabbage. 

The mayonaise salad dressing. No. 68. 

After washing the celery and cabbage throw 
them into boiling salted water, let boil .5 min- 
utes, pour off the hot water and drain and chop 
theiu fine. The green celery leaves acquire an 
intenaer (;reen in the boiling water and when 
chopped with the rest give a color to the whole. 

Drain the liquor from the oysters and boil 
and skim it Add an equal quantity of vinegar, 
some broKen pepper-corns, pepper-sauce and 
salt. Put in the oysters and keep shaking the 
pan while they are scalding that they may sot in 
round and jilump shape Do not let them boil. 
Drain and set them away on a dish to become ice 
cold. 

When to be served season the chopped cel- 
ery slightly with oil and vinegar. Spread part 
of in a dish or in individual dishes, place the 
oysters in it aide by side and the rest of the 
celery on top of them. Smooth the top a little 
and pour mayonaise over just thin enough to 
run. 



Pickled or spiced oysters answer well for salad 
s above instead of the fresh. 



309— Cheese Curd Puffs. 

3 ounces of cream curd (product of 1 quart 
of rich milk curdled with rennet). 
3^i pint of milk — 14 coffee cupful. 

1 ounce of bntter — size of an egg, 
3 ounces of flour^a teacupful. 

2 ounces of grated cheese. 

3 eggs. 

Some pie paste for the bottoms. 

This is a mixtnre that puffs up, hollow like 
cream puffs, and is made into a cooked paste be- 
fore baking as follows : 

The curd must have been scalded and drained 
dry, as in making cheese or smearkase. 

Boil the milk with the butter in it ; drop in the 
flour all at once and stir the paste over the fire 
a few minutes. 

Put in the curd and the grated cheese and 
pound the mixture smooth; then add the egga 
one at a time and beat them in. 

You may di*op spoonfuls of this cheese-fla- 
vored mixture into patty pans, lined thinly with 
pie paste, and hake in a slack oven; or else cut 



Chicago heraLD cooking school. 



63 



out flats, very thin rolled; put a spoonful of the 
mixture in the middle and pinch up the aides 
like a three-cornered hat and bake on a bisctut 
pan. They will open out in baking. Good to eat 
with apple sauce. 

310— Orange . Honey Tartlets. 

The rich sweetmeat variously known as orange 
paste, honey, or conserve, or (airy butter, is 
made as follows: 

8 ounces of sugar. 

2 large oranges. 

2 lemons — juice only. 

2 ounces of butter. 

3 yollis and 1 whole eggs. 

Little rose water or extract, if at hand. 

Put the sugar and butter into a bright sauce- 
pan, grate in the yellow rinds (using a tin grate 
and scraping off with a fork what adheres), and 
squeeze in the juice of both oranges and 
lemons. Stir up and boil, add the eggs and let 
cook at the side of the range until it looks lilie 
melted cheese. Use cold to fill tartleis and 
spread between cakes. 



The same kind of vol-au-vent patty cases de- 
scribed at No. 2.56 are used for filling with sweets. 
Cut them out vound or in diamond shapes, and 
cut a small middle not quite through. When 
the puff paste are baked take out the middle and 
put in a teaspoonful of the orange honey. 



311— Charlotte Russe 



Make it with white lady-fingers and pure 
whipped cream. Individual size. 



313-WIiite tady-Flnsers. 

7 or 8 whites of eggs — according to size. 

6 ounces of powdered sugar — a teacupful. 

4 ounces of flour — a rounded coffeecupful. 

1 rounded teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 

Lemon extract to flavor 

Wbip the whites to a perfectly firm froth ; it 
will take ten minutes' beating in a cool place. 

Have the sugar, flour and cream of tartar all 
well mixed together by running through a seive; 
add them and the extract to the whites and stir 
without beating till fairly mixed. 

Fill the lady-flnger sack and tube with the 
mixture (or use a paper funnel) ; press out tin - 
ger shapes on to a sheet of paper; sift powdered 
sugar over plentifully; catch up two corners of 
the paper, shake off the loose sugar, put the 
sheet on a baking-pau and bake in a slack oven. 
Dampen the paper, under side, with a urush 
dipped in water to get the cakes off. This mixt- 
ure may also be baked in molds. 

Line rings, molds or teacups with the lady- 
fingers, the edges first dipped in white of egg 
and well pressed toget .er, and fill up with 



whipped cream, concerning which see next 
article. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 



313— .Ibout Whipped Cream. 

Good thick cream, if cold, can be made firm 
enough by beating with a wire egg whisk to fill 
charlottes, or even plates lined with a thin sheet 
of cake, or to spread over a cream pie without 
the addition of gelatine or anything else, and 
once so whipped to firmness it will not go down 
again as long as it is kept cold — provided, how- 
ever, that there is not much sugar mixed with it. 
A half pmt cnpfuU of good cream will increase 
in volume, when beaten sufficiently, to fill about 
eight of the small charlotte cases previously 
mentioned. A tin whip-churn is a useful article 
for the ], urpose, though not essential. It is a 
tube witli a dasher in it, the bottom of the tube 
closed, but perforated with holes. Any tinner 
can make them. It is useful when a bowl of 
thin cream, slightly sweetened, la to be churned 
to a light froth for piling on top of a cake, afloat 
in a custard or as a sort of sauce, as well as or- 
nament to saucers of blanc mange and chocolate 
cream. 



314— Bavarian Cream— Best. 

But whipped cream as stated in the foregoing 
not being capable of carrying much sugar or 
flavoring a little gelatine has to be added to give 
it substance. Half an ounce to a quart is suf- 
ficient unless there is to be an addition of some 
flavoring cordial or fruit juice, when an ounce to 
a quart will be the i ule, and four to six ounces 
of sugar. No boiling is required, but set the 
gelatine — a broken up sheet of the opaque kind 
is the easiest to work with — in half a cup of 
milk or cream on the shelf of the range where it 
will gradually get hot. When it is dissolved 
whip the cream in a deep pan set in ice water 
and pour in the dissolved gelatine while heating. 
The cream can be then put into molds very 
slightly oiled, and left to become firm, or used 
to fill cases lined with cake for charlottes, like 
any other. 

315— About Puff Paste. 

As whoever teaches cookery labors under a 
disadvantage when trying to instruct in an 
article but little known, we have found the re- 
mark several times repeated in different forms, 
"few know what really good pastry is, and 
fewer still know how to make it." There are 
half a dozen public places in Chicago 
where perfect puff paste is made every 
day, and half of them exhibit their 
wares so that any one may see what puff paste 
can be when at its best. It is strictly an article 
of luxury and rather expensive, but not so costly, 
because light and large for its wei^'ht, when 
made thoroughly good, as it is when half 



64 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



spoiled, in which state it is a heavy mass 
of washed butter and flour. It is an 
article that if rolled out to an eighth of 
■du inch thickness and put into a hot oven 
will rise to aljout or over an inch, and be light 
and flakey enough almost to blow away. As to 
the uecesKity lor such an article we are not 
speaking; the mere fact of its being only a lux- 
ury makes its appearance so rare. But it is cer- 
tainly a very gratifying accomplishment to be 
able to mal;e it at will; and then, besides, the 
one who makes the fluest puff paste perfectly 
Irom the smi]ile force of hahit ia sure to make 
the ordinary i ie pa^te, only half as rich, much 
better than the average, through the observance 
of the same simple rules in both cases. 

We gave the plain and simple formula, such as 
moat pastry cooks follow, at No. 56, and have 
referred to it since, but have now to mention the 
points, often of more consequence than the 
recipe itself, which a recipe does not tell. There 
are other ways of doing the same thing. The 
standing rule is a pound of butter to a pound of 
flour and ice-water enough to wet the flour into 
soft dough. 

You may mix the flour and water together 
with nothing else whatever in them, roll out to a 
sheet and place all the butter at once in the mid- 
dle. Cover up with the edges of the paste and 
go on roUinx out and folding up till it has been 
rolled and folded six times, when it is ready for 
use. Or, a little of the butter may be rubbed 
into the flour as shortening, and all the rest put 
in the middle and rolled live times. Our rule at 
No. 53 amounts to this, without weighing in- 
gredients. 

Pour a cup of ice-water into your flour, mix 
with two fingers, and take the piece of dough 
very soft and patit smooth on the table. EoU it 
out about half an inch thick. Put lumps of 
butter size of guinea eggs all over the sheet at 
the width of two fingers apart, dredge a little 
flour, press the lumps down to keep their place, 
fold over the paste in three, roll out! as before 
and place lumps of butter the same way again. 
Fold up in three and roll out either five or six 
times. At five times the flakes after baking will 
be the more distinct, at six times the shorter and 
better eating. 

But the little points that affect success are 
these : 

If the paste be kneaded or mixed up hard with 
toe much flour it will not roll out easily, but 
spring back; then if the butter be soft it will be 
squeezed out at the ends and there will be no 
puff paste. The layers of dough and layers of 
butter must keep their places and roll out at 
even pace; that is whv it must be made of cold 
materials, and either be made in a cold place or 
be made so quickly on the kitchen table that it 
has not time to get warm enough to soften the 
butter before it is finished. 

Agam, when the dough is soft and the butter 
in hard lumps these out through and destroy the 



flakes, and there is no puff paste. When the 
butter is not ah'eady pliable so that it will roll 
into sheets easily It should be made so, not by 
making warcn but by pounding with a paddle or 
potato masber in a ivoodeu bowl. 

Those are the particular points. Some add an 
egg to the flour-and-water paste, but it is doubt- 
ful if it does any good. No such thing as baking 
powder is ever needed or should be used for 
puff paste. 

It is an improvement when there is a good 
refrigerator at hand to place the half finished 
puff paste in it on a dish and do the other three 
rollings after it has stood there half an hour and 
become cold all through ; also to keep the fin- 
ished paste in the refrigerator till the moment 
that it is to be finally rolled out and baked. 

Lard of a good, firm, tenacious sort, or part 
lard and part butter can be used and will mak > 
nearly as good puff paste as butter alone — a little 
salt being added — but soft and oily lard will not do. 



316— About Aspic or Savory Jelly. 

The cooks have never invented anything 
else so good for ornamenting cold dishes and 
making common articles look uncommon as this. 
Those who delight in colors and bright objects 
like to test its capacity for making the table shine. 
But it should always be preserved in its original 
condition of something good to eat, and not de- 
teriorated into a wasteful matter of decorat;ou 
only. For the real savory .ielly is the jelly formed 
by boiling meat down till the liquor will set 
when cold, the jelly, for example, of head 
cheese, or of boiled chickens when the liquor 
has nearly all boiled away, and if it is the inten- 
tion to make jelly of such liquor an extra calf's 
foot or pig's foot or two will be thrown in at the 
beginning of the boiling and make the liquor 
stronger. This being the je'.ly in the rough 
state — seasoned as soup would be to make it taste 
good and relishing — in order to change its ap- 
pearance from dull gray into an article of 
sparkling transparency it is necessary to clarify 
it by boiling white of eggs and lemon juice in it 
and straining it through a flannel jelly bag. 

The above is the exnlanation of what is aimed 
at and is to show that the making of savory jelly 
is not an abstruse and foreign affair, but anyone 
who takes pleasure in such things finding at 
hand some meat liquor that has set in jelly firm 
enough to cut with a kuife can clarify it and 
use it to setoff a luncheon or supper table in a 
way that is by no mea .s common. 

■The uses of spica jelly wid be understood 
from these instances.. A dish of sliced chicken 
or turkey or veal or corned beef, the slices all 
being cut to some particular shape and size, 
may have melted jelly poured over, just enough 
to cover, and some leaves of parsley or cress 
dropped here and there on the white meat. 
When cold and set the slices in jelly are cut out 
and placed on other dishes to serve. 

Dishes of sliced ehiclcen or boned turkey are 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



65 



decorated aroand the edges and on top of the 
meat with shapes of the jelly colored in two or 
three tints, cut out with sometiiing, perhaps a 
fancy cake cutter, or wiih a Imife in diamonds 
and triangles. The jelly for this purpose is made 
cold in shallow plattera. 

Jelly molds are filled partly with thin slices of 
meat kept apart by cut or chopped hard-boiled 
egss strewn over each layer, with lemon slices 
and parsley or celery put in for ornament, and 
the whole cemented together by melted jelly 
poured in. The veal or chicken or tongue or 
corned beef loaf, as the above is called, can be 
turned out of the mold when cold and the dish 
ornamenterl at pleasure. 

Solid articles like the boned turkey, No. 306, 
can be incased in jelly by fir.^t coating a mold or 
jar (set in ice water) with jelly, somethin ; like 
lemon slices being set ia the bottom to keep the 
turkey from displacing the coating, putting in 
the cold turkey and then filling around and over 
it with jelly nearly cold. 



aiT— To Make Aspic Jelly. 

To each quart of meat jelly, or chicken liquor 
that is boiled down so that it can be cut with a 
knife, when quite cold, allow : 

2 whites of eggs and the clean sheila. 

1 lemon — all the juice and small piece of 
thin-shaved peel. 

3 cloves, bit of celery or parsley. 
Salt and white pepper to season. 

Take every particle of grease off the meat 
jelly while it is cold, and wipe off the top beside 
with a cloth, then melt it and pour it through 
a fine strainer. Mix the above ingredi- 
ents with it, beating the whites first 
with a third of a cupful of cold water. Boil it 
gently for fifteen minutes or more, taking the 
precaution to set it at first at the side or back of 
the range to heat genily, as it is liable to burn on 
the bottom. When the white of egg in it is thor- 
oughly cooked and looks like gray curd or meat 
in the jelly strain through a jelly -bag, and re- 
peat the pouring through three or four times. 

But when there is no meat jelly already formed 
make some by dissolving an ounce of sheet gela- 
tine in a quart of good soup stock, season it 
nicely, let it get quite cold to remove the grease, 
then melt and clarify it as above. 

Make different tints by adding burnt sugar dis- 
solved in boiling water for amber and brown, 
and cochineal or beet juice for pink and red. 



MENU NO. XXXI— DINNER. 



Extra fine jelly, raoro brilliant than is ever 
seen in the restaurant windows, is made by put- 
ting it through the clarifying process twice, 
allowing a little in the measure for the inevitable 
loss of quantity in the repeated boiling and filter- 
ing; and a correspondingly enhanced flavor is 
obtained by adding a proportion of sherry. 



318— Bean Soup— Plain. 

This is designated plain because the be ans are 
added whole, like any other vegetable, and there 
is another way with the beans mashed to make a 
puree. 

3 quarts of soup stock. 

}{ cupful or more of minced vegetables. 

liif cupfuls of cooked navy beans. 

A small piece of lean ham or a knuckle bone. 

Salt and pepper, thickening, parsley. 

The stock may be made by boiling a shank of 
beef and any other coarse pieces in a gallon of 
water till the meat all slips off the bones, then 
strain off the remaining liquor. The ham or 
ham hone is one of the good flavoring materials 
for soup, but of course can be done without 
Cut up the usual soup bunch of vegetables small, 
with care to have a large proportiim of onion, 
and put them into the strained stock, and the 
beans previously cooked in a separate vessel. 
After boiling a half hour, add a spoonful of flour 
mixed up with water, pepper and salt, and a 
sprinkling of chopped parsley. 

319— Beans fur Soup. 

Pick over the beans and wash them. Better 
soaked in water overnight, if remembered in 
time, but will do without. Put on a small cup- 
ful to boil in more than twice as much water and 
a lump of baking soda as big as a pea and boil for 
two hours. Pour off the water, fill up with cold 
water instead, and when ttie beans boil up again 
they will be done and ready for the soup or to 
eat as a vegetable. 



Overanxious people can make even beans 
burn on the bottom by repeatedly stirring them. 
It 1-1 best to let ati such things alone and not 
make them mushy by bruising with a spoon 
Hominy, rice, pie fruits, and a score of articles 
of the same character come under this rule. 



330-Salt Wliiteiish-IiKU- Sanc«. 

Put the whitefish to soak in fresh cold water 
early in the morning and change the water tAvioe. 
Tliis fish becomes soft and hard to manage if 
kept in water too long. Skin it, cut in suitable 
pieces, put on in a frying-pan or fish-kettle with 
cold water to cover. When it bods it is done. 
Make butler sauce without salt, and chop a 
hard-boiled egg and mix in. 

331-Veal and Oy.ster I'ic. 

1 pound of flank or neck of veal. 
1 green onion, or onion and parsley. 
1 or 2 ounces of salt pork. 
1 cupful of small oysters. 
i{ cupful of milk. 
Pepper, salt, thickening. 
Common pie crust to cover. 
The veal may be any piece that is not s\iitable 
to roast or fry. Cut inn small pieces and stew 



66 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



it an hour, or till tender, in just water enough to 
cover it. Cho-D the onion with a little of the 
green and put it in, the pork also cut 
up, salt and pepper and at laab a spoonful of 
thickening and the milk. Take it from the fire 
and turn it into a shallow pan that will hold IJ^ 
or 2 quarts. Then scatter the oysters and their 
liquor over the top, sprinkle a little more pepper 
and a dust of flour from the dredser, and cover 
with a crust Bake about half an hour. The 
cru!!t may be made by rubbing a small cupful of 
minced suet with a hoapin;,' cupful of flour and 
a pinch of salt, and mixing with lukewarm 
water, or with lard and flour in about the same 
measures, mixed up very cold. 



333— Coarse Hoaiiny. 

Is seldom cooked as much as it ought to bo 
and should be put in water overnight to soften. 
Wash it free from the flour, which is the part 
that burns on the bottom, and [lut it on to cook 
with four times as much water early in the 
morning. Keep it slowly boiling without ever 
putting a spoon in it till nearly ainner time. It 
should either be in a stove pot with feet to raise 
it from the Are or be set on a couple of bricks. 
Season with salt and stir up. It is better with 
butter and milk added indefinitely. 



333— Indian Puauins— Clieap. 

A rich pudding of this kind was given at No. 
341. The following, though cheaper, is among 
the best: 

2 heaping cupf uls of cornmeal mush. 

2 heaping tablespoonfuls of minced suot. 
Quarter cupful of black molasses. 

1^ teaspoonful of ground ginger. 

3 eggs. 

Mix all together gradually, so as to break all 
the lumps in the mush; balse about half an hour. 

A small cupful of cornmeal. boiled in o cupf uls 
of water or milk with salt will make the mush. 



334— Golden Sauce for Puddines. 

}^ cupful of sugar. 

1 small tablespoonful of corn starch. 

1 cupful of water. 

1 ounce of butter. 

Yolk of egg. 

14 a nutmeg. 

Break the nutmeg in pieces and put it in the 
water. Mix starch and sugar together dry and 
stir them in and let thicken, then beat in the but- 
ter and egg yolk just mixed and heaten with 
some of the sauce. Take it from the fire before 
the volk has time to curdle in it. Strain for use. 



325— Squash Pie— Cheap. 

1 large cupful of dry mashed squash. 
1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 
Butter size of a guinea egg, melted. 



1 egg. 

J^ cupful of mill;. 
Little ground cinnamon to flavor. 
Lino two pie-pans with common paste and di- 
vide the mixtiu'es into them. 



336— Pumpkin Butter- Fine Quality. 

3 pounds or pints of dry mashed pumpkin, 
1 pound of sugar. 

4 ounces of butter. 

Flavoring either of shaved lemon rind, cloves, 
nutmeg or race ginger. 

The pumpkin must be dry, either baked or 
steamed. Mash it through a strainer, mix the 
sugar and butter with it and the piece of ginger 
bruised, or thin shaved lemon rind; let simmer 
at tlie side or set upon bricks on tbe stove for 
perhaps an hour. It becomes thick and semi- 
transparent; can be kept in jars in a dark place. 
Good foi' the same uses as fruit jellies and mar- 
malades. 



MENU NO. XXXII.— TEA. 



337— Chicken or Turkey SausMge. 

Talie the skin off a large fowl by first cutting 
down the back and cutting around tbe joints to 
the skin as nearly whole as possible. 

Cut all ihe meat of the fowl from the carcass 
without bone or gristle, chop it raw, like sausage 
meat, and then pound it with a masher in 
the chopping bowl. Weigh it, and take 
half as much fat bacon, chop aud 
pound it likewise. Mix the two .pastes 
together, season like sausage-meat with pepper, 
sage aud salt Eoll up in the skin of the fowl 
and then in a napkin, and boil the sausage in sea- 
soned broth, with the bones of the fowl in it, for 
an hour. When done put it on a dish to cool in 
the napkin it was boiled in, and another dish or 
other weight on top to give it an even shape. 
Slice cold and ornament with jelly and parsley. 



338- Grape Sweet Pickles. 

.5 pounds of grapes. 

2 pounds of light brown sugar. 

1 quart of vinegar. 

1 tablespoonful of whole spices — cloves, al- 
spice, and mace. 

The solid, dry, white grapes of California will 
do to make into sweet pickles at any time; the 
jucier kinds must be taken before they become 
too ripe. 

Boil the vinegar and sugar together gently for 
ten minutes. Put in the grapes, and let simmer 
in the syrup half an hour. Pour all into a 
colander set in a pan, put the grape.', into a jar, 
and the syrup back on the fire, with the spices 
tied up in a piece of muslin in it; boil ten min- 
utes aud pour over the grapes in the jar. 

As with vinegar pickles, Nos. 113 and 113, 
after staniling a day or two the pickle must be 
drained from tbe grapes, boiled and pour.d hot 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



67 



over them again. Tie down, keep in a cold 
place. 

339— Cliipped Beef in Creaiu. 

1 large cupful of shaved dried beef. 

1 cupful of water. 

1 cupful of milk. 

Butter size of a walnut. 

1 tableapoouful of flour. 

Chip the dried beef either with a sharp knife 
or a plane and boil it a short time in the cup of 
water and then add most of the milk and the 
butter. Wet the flour with the remaining milk 
and stir it in to thicken 



330- Butter Kolls or Tea Cakes. 

}^ pound of light bread dough — a large 
oupfuL 

2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. 

1 ounce of butter — size of an egg. 

Yolk of an egg. 

}^ cupful of milk or cream. 

1 cupful of flour to work in. 

When dough has been made for plain bread 
take out the cupful four hours before the meal- 
time and mix in all the above ingredients except 
a small part of the flour, which will be left over 
for dusting. Let rise two houra 

Then knead the dough on the table by pressing 
it out with the knuckles, doubling over, closing 
the edges and pressing out again, and so contin- 
uing for several minutes, till the dough is worked 
full of air bubbles and light and silky looking. 

Make out the dough into round balls and when 
all are molded roll them out flat. Brush one 
with melted butter, place another on top, press 
in the middle and place in a baiting pan. Brush 
over the tops with a very little clear melted but 
ter. Rise an hour ; bake fifteen or twenty min- 
utes Butter inside and out in quarters. 



331— Apple Jelly. 

3 pounds or quarts of apples pared and in 
slices. 

1 quart of water. 
12 cloves. 

2 pounds of sugar. 

Use ripe, mellow apples, such as dissolve in the 
water after a few minutes cooking. Have the 
water ready boiling in a brass kettle or bright pan 
and throw in the cloves and apples. Let simmer 
till the apples are dissolved. Pour the contents 
of the kettle into a flannel jelly bag, and the 
liquor that runs through first pour in a,;ain and 
let all drip dry without pressing. Measure tue 
clear juice back into the same kettle, boil up, 
and then put in ten ounces of white sugar for 
every pint (two cupfuls). Simmer together for 
about half an hour. Use cold. Keep in jars or 
glasses tied down with paper. 



333— White Butter Spouse Cake. 

Easy, cheap and useful kind. 

8 ounces of white sugar. 

10 whites of eggs — or 9 ounces. 

4 ounces of melted butter — a teacupfuL 

}:,' cupful of milk. 

1:3 ounces of flour — 'i large cups. 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Beat the sugar and white of eggs together a 
minute or two, add the butter, the milk, the 
powder and flour. Beat up well. Spread thinly 
on a baking pan, greased and floured previously, 
and bake about ten minutes. Good also for jelly 
roll. Does to make when the white of eggs is 
left over from other cooking that has used up 
the volks. 



MENU XXXn I. -GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. 



333— Broiled Kidneys. 

Sheep's kidneys are the best for broiling; 
calves' are the next best. Procure them, if you 
can, with the suet still upon them. Slice them 
through the fat, then pare off enough of it just 
to leave a border around the slices of kidney. 
Pepper and salt them, and broil in the hinged 
wire broiler over clear coals. They should be 
fairly done through and no more, and should be 
turned over only once, that the gravy may col- 
lect on the top. 

Dish the broiled kidneys on broad, thin slices 
of broiled potatoes, buttered, and drop a small 
piece of butter on the top of each slice. 



334— Broiled Potatoes. 

Pare the largest potatoes and cut them in 
slices about an eighth of an inch thick. Touch 
them with the butter brush, and broil over clear 
coals at a good height above the fire. Try with 
a fork to know when done. Dip in butter and 
sprinkle with fine salt. Serve with kidneys, 
chops, steaks, etc 

335-Broiled Mutton Chops. 

Cut the chops from the rack for choice. The 
rack is the name for all the ribs when they have 
been shortened by taking off the breast and the 
shoulder has been removed. The next best is 
the loin, continuing from the ribs and trimmed 
to the same length. Having divided the ribs into 
chops take off the piece of backbone, cut away 
an inch of the thin meat at the rib end and 
scrape the bone clean. Flatten the chop slightly 
with a tap of the cleaver. Lay the chops on a 
plate and touch both sides with the butter brush. 
Brol over clear coals about five minutes, turning 
over only once. 

Put a tablespoonfnl of butter into a tin pan, 
tosether with as much water and a pinch of salt 
and pepper. Shake together and when the 
chops are done let them lie in the pan and form 
their own gravy until the other articles for tlia 



68 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL' 



supper are ready, then dish the chops standing 
almost on end in tlie dish, with thin, triangular 
pieces of toast between, and pour the butter 
gravy from the pan around them. 



336-Prawns in Butter, or a la Slaltre d'Hotel. 

Empty a can of Barataria shrimps (which in 
reality are prawns) into a frying pan and put m 
a piece of fresh butter. Shake about over the 
lire till they are hot through, but they are not to 
fry or begin to brown. Sprinkle a small table- 
spoonful of minced parsley over them and a 
pinch of white pepper or cayenne. Dish the 
shrimps piled in the center of a hot flat platter 
with whatever butter may remain in the pan 
poured around, and cut a lemon in quarters and 
place around the edge. 



337— French Peas In Sauce. 

Pour the liquor away from a can of French 
peas and set them, on the stove-hearth to get 
warm. Boil half a 6up of milk in a small sauce- 
pan with a teaspoonful of butter and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt Mix a teaspoonful of flour in a 
cup with cold milk and use it to thicken the other. 
When this cream sauce has boiled a minute try it 
to see whether it is scorched, and, if not, put the 
peas into it and let them become thoroughly hot. 
Dish them as a vegetable to go with tlie fore- 
going me er in scollops or deep dishes or 
a tureen. 



338— Sweet Omelet with Jelly. 

For individual omelets break for each dish two 
egKS and put into the bowl with them about two 
tablespoonfuls of cream. Beat to mix, but not 
make it too light. Put a tablespoouf ul of the clear 
part of melted butter into the frying pan, pour 
in the omelet without waiting for the butter to 
get hot and discolored, let cook gradually, 
shaking it frequently to the further side of the 
pan until the thin edge, forced upward, falls over 
into the middle. When it is nicely browned and 
the upper side just set, put currant Jelly, or 
other fruit jelly, in a long line in the middle that 
is made hollow for the purpose in the side of the 
pan. Roll over so as to shut in the jelly, slide it 
smooth side up onto a hot dish. Dredge pow- 
pered sugar on top and mark it with crossbars 
by touching the sugar with a hot wire. 



339— "Mauls of Honor." 

However carefully we may try to set down the 
quantity of any given article that should be pro- 
vided for the entertainment of about half a dozen 
people, it must be owned that an impossibility 
arises when it is required to say how many Maids 
of Honor a party of gentlemen ought to devour 
at one sitting, if, indeed, they ought to be allowed 
to have any. But as Maids of Honor have be- 
come so uncommon at these entertainments, per- 
haps a little e.s-pIanation had better be made. 

We have among our collected facts and scraps 



a little menu of one of Washmgton's dinners, not- 
a state affair, but small and reherohe, where 
perhaps General Washington sat at the head of 
the table and Lady Martha did the honors at the 
other end. There is green goose as the piece de 
resistance, olives are set out among other things, 
and in two places, both on the right hand and on 
the left — not of the table, but in the menu — are 
Maids of Honor. We never serve Maids of 
Honor for dmner or supper in any hotel or res- 
taurant nowadays, but — 

Well, we have another menu of one of Ben- 
jamin Franklin's dinners that is almost a fac- 
simile of the other, but has roast forequarter of 
lamb in place of the green goose, and in the 
places occupied by the Maids of Honor in that 
we find dishes of cheesecakes in this. Now, per- 
haps, some reader will remember that cheese- 
cakes, than which there is nothing in the 
pastry department better, used to be ever 
so long ago great favorites with those who 
gave entertainments to a few friends, 
and among the varieties of little tarts 
that bore the name one kind was 
called Maids of Honor. None of us can tell why. 
The only peculiarity that made these cheese- 
cakes different from the common seems to be in 
the use of the lightest puff-paste to line the 
patty-pans with instead of a plain and unaspir- 
ing short paste, making a frilled-edged and be- 
ruifled article of much more frivolous appear- 
ance than the steady everyday sort of cheese- 
cake. The following preparation does for the 
filling of both kinds, those made with fine puff- 
paste and those with common short, or with 
sweet tart paste. 

340— Cheesecakes. 

Procure a calf's rennet, such as the cheese- 
makers use, from the butcher, put a piece the 
size of two fingers into a vial, fill up with water. 
When it has stood a few hours strain the rennet- 
water into a pan of new milk, and stir to mix. 
In two or three hours the milk will turn to curds 
and whey. Set the pan over a slow fire to get 
hot without scorching at bottom, and without 
stirring. When at the boiling point pour the 
curd into a napkin set in a strainer, tie and hang 
up to drip dry. This curd is good for a number 
of excellent articles. For cheesecakes take: 

12 ounces of curd — product of 4 quarts milk. 
4 ounces of sugar — f^2 teacupful. 

3 ounces of butter — same measure. 

4 yolks of eggs. 

Lemon rind grated, or lemon extraci 

Grated nutmeg. 

Pinch of salt. 

Hub the curd, as taken from the draining 
cloth, through a flour sieve, mash it smooth, add 
the other ingredients and pound them all to- 
gether. Line patty-pans with paste, nearly fill 
with the mixture, bake about fifteen minutes. 
The curd mixture, though seemingly too firm at 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



69 



first, melts and puffs up in the oven. Dredge 
powdered sugar over the tops when done. 



As substitutes for rennet curd, which is aa 
sweet as pounded almonds, the curd of sour milk 
and the curd of a custard that is spoiled through 
letting it boil, can be used if prepared by scald- 
ing and draining in the same way, but will not be 
quite BO good. 



MENU NO. XXXIV— BREAKFAST. 



341— Melon Salad. 

Pare the rind from half a musk melon ; out the 
melon slices to sizes like sliced cucumbers; place 
in a bowl ; dredge with salt and pepper and shake 
about with 3 or 4 tablespoonsful of olive oil. 
When that is well distributed sprinkle with vine- 
gar, a spoonful at a time, enough to flavor and 
moisten without leaving any residue iu the bot- 
tom of the bowl. Serve heaped in the middle of 
a flat platter and garnish with green. Takes the 
place of fruit at the beginning of breakfast. 



343— Fried Oysters— SiiiKle Breaded. 

Dry the oysters by pressing with a napkin: 
drop them into beaten eg^^ in which is a little 
salt, and out of that into cracker meal. Give 
them a good coating by pressing with care, not to 
rub or leave a bare place for the grease to get in. 
Drop them singly into a frying-pan of hot lard. 
Pry brown in 3 or 3 minutes. Dish neatly in the 
middle of a hot platter, with a quartered lemon 
and sprigs of parsley. 



343— Fried Oysters— Double Breaded. 

Out of their own liquor into cracker meal, 
coat well, dip in beaten egg and then in cracker 
meal again. Fry four or five minutes. Oysters 
look twice as large as they really are when 
double breaded. 



Various fancies are made known by different 
people in regard to fried oysters, the commonest 
being a preference for corn meal to dip them in 
instead of cracker meal. Fried oysters never 
look very well done that way and are only served 
so when so ordered A hotelkeeper of con- 
siderable traveling experience used to say the 
best he ever ate were breaded with white of egg 
and cracker meal and patted down flat, then 
served set on edge with very small and thin 
pieces of buttered toast between, like so many 
' lamb chops set up in a dish. 



344— Corn Bread— Good Common. 

1 cupful of white corn meal. 

1 large cookins-spoonfnl of melted lard. 

1 cupful of boiling water. 

1 small cupful of cold water or milk. 

1 egg. Little salt. 

1 teaspoonful of caking powder. 

Scald most of the meal with the boiling water- 



which ia the most essential thing in making first- 
rate corn bread — then add the other ingredients, 
the powder last, and beat up thoroughly. Make 
baking pan hot in the oven without greasing it. 
When the batter is poured into a pan hissing hot 
it never sticks, and there will be no discoloration 
of burnt grease. It should be over an inch deep 
in the pan and bake about half an hour. The 
top crust should be baked quickly that the bread 
may rise with a smooth top, not cracked open. 

Beally good corn bread makers are about as 
scarce as are the makers of fine puff-paste. Few 
aeem to know how good corn bread can be, and 
how quickly skillful hands can make the people 
leave all other kinds of bread and prefer this. 

Buttermilk and aoda can be used instead of 
the cold milk and powder. 



345— Ijiver and Salt Fork, witli Gravy. 

Cut three slices of salt or pickled pork, then 
divide them, making six pieces, and fry them on 
both sides. Take out the pork and fr}' six slices 
of liver in the fat, and pepper it well while cook- 
ing. When done on both sides take out the liver 
and make gravy in the pan by putting in a table- 
spoonful of flour and stirring it about over the 
fire until it ia well mixed with the fat and gravy, 
then pour in a cup of water, and let boil up. 
Strain this sauce over the liver and pork in the 
dish. If not salt enough from the pork, aait 
should be added. 



346— Hominy Grits, Fine Hominy or Sauip. 

Experiments tried for the purpose with this 
troublesome article have proved that if it ia 
washed free from the flour that is in it, put into 
water that is already boiling, and kept in motion 
till It boils again, it may then be left to simmer 
with the lid on for the neceaaary two hours with- 
out danger of burning; and also that It does as 
well and cooks as quickly without previous soak- 
ing ill water as with it Use three cupfuls of 
water to one of hominy, and add milk and salt 
when it boils dry. There are such things aa 
double kettles for boiling these mealy articles of 
diet in, but few care to provide them. 

Hominy grits cooked as above, and perhaps 
with a little butt r stirred in, is served either as 
mush with miik, or as a vegetable, with a diah 
of liver and salt pork. 



347— Baked Bananas. 

Peel a dozen bananas and split them in halves 
lengthwise. Lay these strips iu close order m a 
baking pan, strew sugar over, and some bits of 
fresh butter, and grate a little nutmeg. Bake in 
a moderate oven about 20 minutes. They should 
come out glazed, and if not syrup enough in 
the pan, a little should be mixed in a cup to baste 
them with. Serve aa a last course with cake and 
milk. 



70 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



MENU NO. XXXV.— LUNCHEON. 



348-LeK ot Bunt Soup. 

10 pounds of sbin of beef. 

4 quarts of water. 

1 medium onion. 

1 ounce of butter. 

A bunch of soup vegetables. 

1 tomato or some catsup. 

Salt, pepper, cloves, flour. 

BreaU the marrow bone and cut the meat in 
pieces, simmer them in the gallon of watei' till 
it is reduced to two quarts. Skim when it iirst 
boils, and then throw in six cloves. When the 
meat is quite done tender strain off the liquor 
into another saucepan and set it to boil again. 
Cut the onion across and across into little squares, 
and fry it in the butter in a frying-pan, but only 
till it is yellow and not burnt; then put in a ta- 
blespoonf ul of flour and stir it up with the butter 
and onion and set the pan in the oven for a min- 
ute or two to brown it for thickening. 

Cut the soup bunch vegetables into little 
squares, and throw them into the boiling broth. 
Chop some of the lean meat, about enough to fill 
a teacup, and put that in and then the browned 
flour and onion out of the frying-pan. Let boil 
gently for about half an hour. Season with 
pepper and salt to taste and add at least either a 
chopped tomato, a spoonful of catsup, or a quar- 
ter of a lemon cut small. 



349— OystiT Pies. 

The individual oyster piss of this sort 
at the restaurants are made of about the 
size of a common saucer and contain a 
dozen or more of small oysters. They 
can be made smaller, of course, to suit other lo- 
calities and also larger to admit of division. Lay 
a very thin crust of common pie paste on the 
plate, putin the oysters and their liquor, dredge 
with salt and pepper, drop in a piece of fresh 
butter, cover with a thin top crust and bake 
quickly in a brisk oven. Serve the pie in a soup 
plate and pour a little thin oyster sauce or milk 
stew liquor around it. 

350— Potatoes Baked in Milk. 

Or Dutch baked potatoes. The excellence of 
potatoes cooked this way is dependent upon 
slow baking to evaporate the milk without burn- 
ing it. Cut enough potatoes in thick slices to 
half fill a two-quart pan or dish. Drop in butter 
the size of an egg, in little bits, a teaspoonf ul of 
salt and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 
then fill up the pan with milk and bake for two 
hours. The milk remaining in the pan should 
by that time be as thick as cream, ana the dish 
should be light brown on top. 



351-Cnrned Beef In Jelly. 

Take some streaked pieces of corned beef, 
either thin flank or brisket with the bones re- 
moved, wabh in cold water, then roll up to about 



the thickness of a wrist, and t.e tightly with sev- 
eral turns of twine. Boil the beef gently for 
at least three hours, then set it away to get cold. 
Slice the rolls, lay the slices on a iarge platter, 
and pour clear aspic jelly (No. olT), just enough 
to cover them. The jehy should be only just 
warmed sufficiently to run, as if hot it will melt 
the fat and make a bad appearance. When again 
cold and set cut out tlie slices with the jelly coat- 
ing them, place on another platter, and ornament 
with parsley, cress, cooked beets, or shred pepper 
pods. 

352— I'nmatoes in Mayonaise. 

Select smooth apple tomatoes, pare them, 
without scalding, with a sharp knife, out eacli 
one in three or four slices, but leave them in 
place, the tomatoes appearing whole in the dish. 
Keep cold till wanted, then serve with a spoonful 
of mayonaise dressing (No. (58) on top of each 
tomato, and a border of shred lettuce, cress or 
other salad green around the dish. 



353— Apjile SoniHe. 

On account of the scarcity of culinary terms, 
the word souffle has to stand for a great number 
of hght articles that may have very little resem- 
blance to eaoli other. This consists of a border 
of dry stewed apple raised in a iarge dish or an 
ice cream saucer, as the case may be, the hollow 
middle flUed with boilad custard and whipped 
white of egg and sugar, like the frosting on 
lemon pies, piled on top. It need not be baked, 
but the top may he browned by holding a red hot 
shovel over it or on the shelf in the ovea Serve 
cold. 



354— Wafer Oiiigerbread. 

1 cupful of butter. 

2 cupfuls of light-brown sugar. 
1 cupful of milk. 

4 cuptuls of flour, 

1 teaspoonful of ground ginger. 

Warm the butter and sugar slightly and rub 
them together to a creanL Add the milk, gin- 
ger and flour. It makes a paste like very thick 
cream. Spread a thin coating of butter on the 
baking pans, let it get quite cold and set, 
then spread the paste on it no thicker th»n a visit 
ing card, barely covering the pan from sight. 
Bake in a slack oven, and when done cut the 
sheets immediately into the shape and size of 
common cards. This is also known as euchre 
gingerbread, is serves in packs and eaten be- 
tween games. 



MENU NO. XXXVI— DINNER. 



355— Pure Soups. 

A puree is a pulp of meat, vegetables or 
fruit pressed through a seive. Mashed potato 
is a puree of potatoes, technically. A number 
of soups are made by thickening them to the 
consistency of gravy with these smooth pastes, 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



such as puree of chicken, rabbit, etc. , and puree 
of turnips, peaa and beans 

As these soupa are imperfect when the pure- 
sinlis in them lilie a sediment in the plates, leave 
ing the liquor thin and clear, a number of pre- 
cautions and expedients are generally attached 
to the directions for making them, to the extent 
of causing them to appear very formidable and 
difficult, as, for instance, it is said the soup 
must never boil after the puree is 
added, but be conatantly stirred. In regard to 
the present example, only two little points need 
be made, and nothing is easier ihan to produce 
this favorite soup in perfection; 

Be sure that the beans are cooked perfectly, to 
a state of musMness, before they are maslied, 
and use, beside, a very little flour thicken- 
ing in the soup. The bean purae Trill 
then never sink aa long as the soup is kept hot 
whether it boila or not. The aame hints apply to 
all vegetable purees. 

366— Puree of Bean Soup with Crusts. 

The special aeasonings that make this soup 
good are mustard, butter aud minced red pep- 
per, to be added at last. A little of the liquor 
from the boiling corned beef or a knuckle bone 
of ham will improve the flavor. 

2 quarts of soup stock. 

1 cupful of nai y beans. 

1 tablesooonful of minced onion. 

Butter size of an egg (optional). 

1 teaspoonful of made mustard. 

Parsley, salt, little ijiinced red pepper. 

Make the soup atock by boiling almost any 
kind of meat and marrow bones in a gallon of 
water, with the usual soup bunch of various 
vegetables in it, untill the liquor is reduced nearly 
one-half. Then strain it and skim off the fat. 

Boil the beans as directed at No. 319, with the 
pinch of soda to help dissolve them, and when 
perfectly soft mash them through a solve or 
gravy strainer. Have the stock boiling; pour it 
to the puree gradually and stir to 
mix. Throw in the minced onion. Set 
on the side of the range or on brioiis on the 
stove top, and let simmer 1.5 or 20 minutea. Sea- 
aon as already indicated. Add a spoonful ot 
thickening along with the mustard. Sprinkle 
parsley over the surface. Serve with crusts. 



■357— Conde Crusts for Soup. 

It is a common fault to make these large and 
unsightly. When, in addition, they are burned 
in the oven, they spoil any soup, however well 
made. 

Shave away the dark crust from cold rolls or 
slices of bread ; cut the bread in neat, dice shapes 
of even size, and toast it in a pan in the oven to 
a light brown color all over. Pour from six to 
twelve in each soul) plate before the soup. It is 
better not to add these crusts to the soup in the 



pot, as they dissolve and give it a bad apps.ir- 
ance. 



358— Boilrd Codlisli, with Oyster Sauce. 

Boil in plain salted water generally about half 
an hour, or until the meat of the iish will leave 
the back bone. Serve with white oyster sauce. 



359-WliitB Oyster Sauce— Commoi 

1 cupful of stock, or liquor from boiling fish. 

2 dozen oysters and their liquor. 
Butter, size of an egg. 

1 tablespoonful of flour. 

Have the fish liquor boiling, and pour it to the 
oysters to shrink them, strain the liquor away 
from them and boil it. Skim, stir in the flour 
madeinto thickening with a little water, then the 
butter, and at last the oysters. As soon aa it be- 
gins to boil again take from the fire before the 
oysters become hard 

360— Koast Turkey, Willi Cranberry .«iauce. 

Choose a small, fat hen turkey or young but 
full-grown gobbler for straight roasting, as the 
largest turkeys are tough unless boiled before be- 
ing roasted, and a fowl of any kind is never quite 
so good done that way as if cooked entirely in the 
oven. 

Singe, pick over and wash the turkey and truss 
it with the legs in the body aud wings bent under 
the back. Put it in a pan with a tablespoonful 
of salt, a cup of water and any ends of beef- 
steak or trimmings of roasts that can be spared 
to enrich the pan gravy. There will be required, 
also, a cupful of sweet drippings from the pre- 
vious day's roasting or fat from the soup atock 
or lard or butter. 

Boast the turlioy about an hour and a half. 
Baste frequently with the liquor from a corner 
of the pan. Aa soon as it has began to brown 
lay a greased sheet of paper on top to keep it 
from blistering. Roll the turkey over occa- 
sionally that it may color all over alilie, but do 
so without ever sticidng a fork into the meat. It 
is a good sign that a turkey is done when little 
jets of steam burst out of the breast and thick 
parts. While the turkey is cooking boil the 
gizzard and heart in a little water, and when 
done cut them into dice. Let the pan gravy dry 
down after the turkey is taken outuntiltliefatcan 
be poured off quite clear. Pour a cup of water 
into the pan and let it boil to dissolve the brown 
glaze, then stir in a spoonful ot flour thickening. 
Strain the gravy into a bowl, and add the out up 
gizzard to it. Serve some of this brown gravy 
with the turkey and cranberry sauce in indi- 
vidual sauce dishes separately. 



361— Crrinberry Sauce for Turltey. 
3 large cupfuls of cranberries. 
1 small cupful of light brown sugar. 
1 cupful of water. 
Wash the berries, put them in a saucepan with 



72 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



363— Browned S'weet Potatoes- 
If the potatoes are of good size pare them be- 
fore cooniag, split lengthwise and steam them 
until done. Turn them into a baliing pan, sprinkle 
with salt, moisten wiih spoonfuls of fat from the 
roast meat pan and bake them a handsome brown. 
Sweet potatoes will not bake to a rich color and 
be really good un'ess they are first steamed or 
boiled thoroughly done. Thin and stringy po- 
tatoes can be steamed first and peeled afterward. 



the water, spread the sugar oyer the top, cook 
wilh a lid on for half an hour. Pour off a glass- 
ful or two of the clear syrup, if wanted for cold 
jelly, before stirring up the berries, then mash | 
them with a spoon. Sometimes, from motives of 
economy, the stewed cranberries are mixed with 
an equal amount of brown sauce from the turkey 
pan on the same plan as some of the game sauces 
made with fruit iu gravy. 



363— Gookins: Sweetbreads and Brains. 

It IS generally agreed that a knowledge of a 
number of wliat are called side dishes iu private 
houses and entrees in hotels is a desirable thing 
in a cook, if only to break up a dreary repetition 
of dishes in the daily menu in one case, or to 
surprise the home-coming head of the family 
with a little freshness and variety in another, yet 
this knowledge is hard to acquire, not through 
the real difficulty or complication of the matter 
itself, but because of the incomprehensible 
nature of all printed directions that include some 
three or four, or more, separate operatious to 
produce one not very important result, causing 
the mystified and impatient reader to say, with 
the girl in the play, "Oh, we'll just stuff 'em 
with beans and ingnn-f, and let'em stew." 

Thus we have known professed cooks in good 
hotels, who never mastered more than ten or 
twelve of these entrees, which they had to shuffle 
up and deal out as variously as they could, while 
the articles, however placed, were always recog- 
nizable aa the same. 

Should we here, in directing the making of the 
following little dish, which really in the main 
part talies but a few minutes, begin at the begin- 
ning, with steeping the sweetbreads in cold water, 
there would be in all five different opera- 
tions to perform to prepare two sweet- 
breads for the table. However, if 
the learner will remember that both 
sweetbreads and brains are always boiled first, 
before any of the little dishes are made of them, 
and that they may and ought to be boiled the 
day before they are wanted, and be a'ready 
cold to cut up for side dishes, then the dirjc- 
tions are shortened one-half and may begin to 
appear plain. 

Steep and wash the sweetbreads in cold water, 
then boil them until tender. If calves' sweet- 
breads, tliey will be done in half an 



hour; if beef sweetbreads they will 
take twice or thrice as long. There 
should be a little salt and vinegar, or lemon juice 
in the water tliey are boiled in. When dona 
take them up on a d^sh, and set them away to get 
cold. Tlie liquor may be used instead of water 
to make the sauce for them afterward, the fat 
being removed when it has become cold. 

With brains, proceed in the same way, washing 
away the blood before cooking, and after tliey 
are boiled picking them over, and peeling off the 
dark places. Brains need to simmer geutiy, in 
salted water only, twenty or thirty minutes. 



364--Kaeout of Sweetbreads and MusUrooals. 

3 or 3 large sweetbreads, or 1 pound. 

3^ can of mushrooms. 

2 ounces of butter — size of an egg. 

1 tablespoonful of floar. 

Little minced onion and ham for seasoning. 

Juice of 1 lemon, 

Cayenne and salt 

Fried shapes of bread for the border. 

Take the sweetbreads already cooked and cold, 
and cut them into large dice. 

Make the sauce for them in a deep saucepan, 
first putting in half the butter, a large teaspoonf ul 
of minced onion and a very thin slice of ham, 
and when these are cooked enough for flavor 
without browning nut in the flour and stir the 
mixture over the fire until it begns to color. 
Then add gradually the mushroom liquor and a 
cupful of the liquor the sweetbreads were boiled 
in; let it boil up and become thick. Add a pinch 
of cayenne. Next, melt the other piece of butter 
in a frying-pan, put iu the mushrooms 
and the cut up sweetbreads and shake 
them about over the fire until they begin 
to show color; take it off, squeeze in the 
juice of the lemon and then strain in the 
thick sauce from the other vessel. Diah them 
heaped up in the center of a flat platter, or of 
small dishes for individual orders, and place a 
border of thin shapes of bread fried in lard 
around the edge. 



365— Fried Crusts or Shapes for Garnisliine. 

In a case where economy is not in question the 
handsomest shapes for a border can be made by 
taking a stale, long and narrow loaf of bread and 
trimming down on both sides to some pattern 
{like a piece of carpenter's molding), so that 
when it is sliced up with a sharp knife the slices 
will be heart-shaped, or leaf or club or spade- 
shaped, etc., and all alike. Simple triangles 
may be set up on edge around a large dish, and 
fastened to stand by dirping the bottoms in egg 
and then making the dish hot enough to dry it 
This makes a raised case, into which a ragout 
like that of the foregoing recipe may be poured. 
Or a long and slender leaf shape may be laid on 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



73 



the small dish, projecting well over the side, and 
the ragout or fricassee dished upon the end of it. 
AU these shapes are first to be fried, either in 
lard or the clear part of melted butter. They 
take but about one minute in the fat, when it is 
hot, and need care to have them all of a nice, 
even color. Cold rolls and slices can be used in 
similar ways. 

aOG-Stiiffed Onions. 

6 or 8 large onions. 

14 cupful of sausage meat 

)4 cupful of bread crumbs. 

1 egg. 

1 cupful of brown sauce. 

Pepper and salt 

These have to be prepared early, as it takes a 
long time to cook onions tender. 

Peel the onions and boil them in water 10 
minutes; both to extract some of the strong taste 
and to make the inside easy to remove. Then 
drain them and push out about half the insides; 
chop these and mix with them the sausage meat, 
and bread crumbs, and egg, and a good 
pinch of black pepper, and little salt. 
Stuff the onions with the mixture and heap it a 
little on top to use up the surplus. Place them 
in a deep pan that will go in your steamer and 
let steam about an hour and a half. Then brown 
them off in the oven with the cup of gravy 
poured in the pan. 

When not convenient to steam they can be 
simmered in gravy in the oven if kept covered 
with a greased sheet of paper. Any kmd of 
minced cold meat, or part raw and part coolied 
without an egg, can be made into a savory side 
dish in the above manner. See hints at Nos. 
247 and 348. 



367— Indian Fruit Pudding:. 

3 cupfuls of milk or water — l).^ pints. 

1 cupful of yellow coru-meal — 6 ouncea 

1 teacupful of minced suet — 3 ouncea. 

3^ teacupful of black molasses — 3 ounces. 

3 eggs. Little salt. 

1 cupful of seedless raisins — 1 ounces. 

Same of currants. 

J^ teaspoonf ul of ginger, cinnamon, or grated 
lemon rind. 

Make mush with the meat and water and let it 
cook well with the steam shut in for an hour or 
two. Then mi.'c in all the other ingredients, the 
fruit previously dusted with flour, and bake it iu 
a pan or moid about an hour. Cover with 
greased paper to keep the fruit from blistering. 
Three heaping cups of corn-meal muah ready 
made will do as well. The above makes a quart 
of pudding. 

36S~-ljenion Butter Sauce for Puddings 

14 cupful of sugar. 

1 tablespoonfnl of corn starch. 

1 cupful of water. 



Butter size of a walnut ' 

1 small lemon. 

Yolks of 3 eggs. 

Grate the rind of the lemon into the sugar, 
put in the starch and mix them well together dry, 
stir them into the water already boiling in a 
saucepan. Add half the juice of the lemon and 
the butter. Pour some of the sauce to the yolks, 
beat up, then mix all and almost immediately 
take the sauce from the fire before the yolks 
curdle in it. 



Any of the foregoing sauce that may be left 
over can have the whipped white of an egg added 
and be used to fill paste-lined patly pans for 
tarts or cheesecakes. 



369— Pumpkin Custard Pie. 

1 cupful of dry, mashed pumpkin. 

1 cupful of common custard. 

A common custard is one egg to a cup of milk 
and two tablespoonfula of sugar. Prepare this 
mixture iu a bowl, and stir the pumpkin into if. 
If the pumpkin be not dry — either baked or 
steamed — another egg may be needed to make the 
pie set. Add a grating of nutmeg or a little gin- 
ger. Bake iu two deep pie pans lined with 
paste. 



370-Good Common Mincemeat. 

3 pounds of minced beef or tongue. 

3 pounds of suet 

4 pounds of currants. 
3 pounds of apples. 

1 pound of raisins. 

1 pound of brown sugar. 

1 ounce of mixed ground spices. 

1 pound of candied citron, or the same of 
orange and lemon rinds boiled tender. 

1 pint of common brandy. 

3 quarts of cider, or enough to make it juicy. 

Put the raisins iu whole. Mince all tlie rest, 
seasoning the meat and suet a little with salt and 
pepper. Should 136 kept three or four weeks be- 
fore using. 

Makes about 2}4 gallons, or 40 or 50 pies. 



Nothing is saved by buying trashy currants. 
They have to be well washed and picked over 
free from stones, and the more dirt there is the 
more will wash away. Some currants are like 
small raisins, nice and clean and large. There 
is no waste in them. 

371— To Clean Currants. 

Put them into a colander with holes not too 
large; set that down in a pan half full of warm 
water and stir the currants about vigorously. 
The dirt will go through the holes. Pour the 
water away two or three times. This is the 
quickest plan, and most thorough. Spread the 
currants out in a baking pan; pick them over 
and let them dry for use. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



373-To Clean Kaisins. 

When sultana seedless are furnished, or even 
the larger kind of seedless raisins, put them in 
a colander with a handful of flour mixed in, and 
rub off the fine stems, which then, by sifting 
about, will fall through the holes. When the 
greater part have been so got rid of the raisins 
must be picked over separately, especially to re- 
move the gravel stones that may chance to be 
among them. Layer raisins have to be seeded 
to be good in anything — a most tedious oper- 
ation, and requiring such help as can be had. 



MENU NO. XXXVII.— TEA 

373— Oy-sters Sauteed or Fried Without Esss. 

Out of their own liquor into cracker meal, 
press and coat them well without rubbing, as the 
ooatiug will not stick a second time 

Put a little butter, say as big as a walnut, iuto 
the frying-pan and when it is melted lay in the 
oysters close together and fry them light brown, 
and the quicker the better, not to let them cook 
hard and tough. One side being done invert a 
plate that will just fit upon them in the frying- 
pan, turn over— there should be butter enough 
in the pan to spill— and then slide them from the 
plate into the pau again to brown the other side. 
Dish them up without breaking apart and garn- 
ish with parsely and lemon. 



374— CliipDcd Beef in Butter. 

Shave dried beef very thinly either with a 
knife or inverted plane. Put into a pan enough 
butter to cover the bottom when melted and then 
a cupful of the shaved beef. Dredge with pep- 
per. Stir about Wheu fairly hot through it is 
done. May be served heaped up on thin toast or 
in individual deep dishes. 



375— Chow-Ciiow-Home-Mjde. 

3 quarts of green tomatoes. 
1 large head of cabbage. 
1 dozen large cucumbers. 

1 dozen ouions. 

Chop fine, sprinkle plentifully with salt and 
let stand over night Then drain off and cover 
with weak vinegar and let stand two days. 
Drain off again and add 

3 quarta of cider vinegar. 

3^ pint of grated horseradish. 

4 ounces of white mustard seed. 
1^ ounce of celery seed. 

IJ^ ounces of ground cinnamon seed. 

2 tablespoonfuls of turmeric. 
Same of ground mustard. 

3^ pound of ougar. 
a'tabiespoonfuls of black pepper. 

3 sreeu peppers chopued fine. 

Boil up all together a few minutes, and when 
cold it is ready for the table. Keep in jars, cov- 
ered down. 



376-S(. Charles Corn Bread. 

A sort of cornmeal cake, but not sweet, once 
famous on the lower Mississippi. 
2 small cupfuls of white cornmeal— 8 ounces. 
Butter size of an egg — 2 ounces — melted. 

1 cupful of boiling water— }^ pint. 
Same of cold milk. 

2 eggs. 

% teaspoonf ul of salt 

1 teaspoouful of baking powder. 

Pour the boiling water into the meal, wetting 
and scalding it all. Then add the melted butter, 
salt and milk and then the eggs. 

Put a cake mold into the oven to get hot. Add 
the powder to the batter and beat up thoroughly 
with an egg whisk; then pour it into the hot 
mold, which need be greased. Bake carefully, 
like a cake, about }-^ hour. The batter for this 
when ready to be baked should be as thin as if 
for batter cakes, and the top crust should be the 
first to bake, to prevent cracking open. Eat hot. 



377— Comijote of Ai>ples. 

This is but another term for apples stewed in 
syrup. A compote of fruit is understood to be 
different from stewed fruit, in being richer with 
sugar and the fruit being either whole or in large 
pieces. 

Five ripe apples of a kind that have proved.to 
be good to cook make a delightful sweet dish for 
tea in this way: 

4 large apples. 

1 cupful of sugar. 

14 cupful of water. 

Piece of orange peel or lemon peel, or cloves, 
or stick cinnamon for tlavoring. 

Put the sugar, orange peel and water on to boil 
in a deep saucepan. Pare the apples, cut each 
one in three and out out the cores. Drop three 
or four pieces at a time into the boiling syrup, 
and let simmer about fifteen minutes, or until 
done and almost transparent: take them outwiih 
a fork, and cook some more in the same syrup, 
and so on till all are done. Serve in dessert sau- 
cers. The apples can he colored pink by adding 
red fruit juice or currant jelly to the syrup. 



378— Water Spongre Cake. 

Valuable recipe. Excellent sponge cake and 
cheap. 
}/i cupful of sugar — 4 ounces. 

6 tablespoonfuls of water. 

1 cupful of flour — 4 ounces. 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. . 

Separate the eggs — the whites in a bowl or dish, 
the yolks in the mixing pan. Put the sugar and 
water in with the yolks, and beat them till they 
are a thick yellow froth. Mix the powder in the 
flour, add that and stir up well Whip the whites 
firm, add them last Suitable to bake in a cake 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



75 



mold, or in gem pans, with powdered sugar on 
top, or in a sheet spread on paper for jelly roll or 
for linmg Charlotte molds. 



MENU NO. XXXVIII— RECEPTION. 



379— Potase aux Amaudes. 

3 quarts of white soup stock. 

1 tablespoonful of minced onion, 

A slice of lean ham. 

}4 blade of mace and piece of nutmeg. 

6 cloves. 

A sprig of green thyme. 

1 pound of almonds. 

1 pint of thick sweet cream. 

Make the stock by boiling an old fowl and 
about ten pounds of veal and veal bones in about 
five quarts of water until it is reduced three 
quarts, and sets in jelly wlien cold — about hve 
or six hours of gentle boiling at the side of tlie 
range. Take care while it is heating at first that 
the veal does not burn on tbe bottom. 

Never put raw ham in a soup boiler along 
with raw veal, lest it; turn the stock red; but 
when this stock is nearly ready to take olf put in 
all the seasonmgs named in the list, except the 
almonds and cream, and let boil long enough to 
flavor. Strain off into a jar or pail, take off the 
fat, then again pour the stock, without the sedi- 
ment, into a clean saucepan, and sot it over a 
slow fire. 

Boil the almonds a few minutes and peel them, 
cut about one-fourth of them into shreds to co 
into the soup at last Pound the larger portion 
to a paste, a few at a time, and add spoonfuls of 
water while pounding; add the paste to the soup 
and season with salt. Boil the most of the 
cream separately and add it to the soup along 
with the reserved almonds just before servmg. 



Cream or milk added to a soup that is rich 
enough to become jelly when cold will turn to 
curd, fine like meal, if allowed to boil. The 
same takes place in a rich stew or fricassee. Al- 
though this is not always a disadvantage it is 
undesirable in a soup that should be smooth and 
creamy, hence the necessity for reserving the 
boihug cream until the last minute. 



Serve the foregoing soup hot in cups, and let 
some one be ready with a bowl of cold cream 
whipped to a froth and drop a tablespoonsul m 
each cup as it goes in. There will be about 25 
cups, 

380— Scalloped Oysters in Silver .Shells. 

7 or 8 dozen oysters and their liquor. 

1 pound of fine bread crumbs. 

1 pound of fresh crushed oyster crackers. 

13 ounces of butter. 

1 pint of milk. 

Pepper and salt. 

From 16 to 20 silver scallop shells, 



Soften the butter and brush a coating of it over 
the bottom of the shells and strew a layer of the 
mixed bread and cracker crumbs. 

Shake the o^'sters about in their own liquor in 
a pan over the fire to make them shrink a little 
without boiling. Take out with a drainer, and 
place 4, 5 or 6 in each scallop. Cover with the 
mixed bread and cracker crumbs. 

Strain the oyster liquor, mix the butter and 
milk with it, add salt and pepper to taste, and 
divide it by spoonfuls into the scallops, moisten- 
ing the crumbs all over Wipe the exposed 
edges perfectly clean. Bake light brown on the 
middle shelf of the range. 



381 -Fillets of Trout— Italienne. 

Choose brook trout weighing about eight 
ounces each, or lake herring or Cisco or otlier 
small fish in tbeir stead. Dip them a moment in 
boiling Avater and peel off the skin. Split them 
lengthwise and take away the bone and lay the 
fillets in a dish with enough olive oil and lemon 
juice to moisten them. 

For twenty such fillets five eggs will be needed, 
a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and some 
flour. Beat the eggs slightly and mix the parsley 
in. Drain the pieces of fish from the oil, dip 
them in flour first, then in egg. then fry m hot 
olive oil or lard for about five minutes. Drain 
on a sheet of paper and dredge with fine salt It 
is all in the trying whether they come out of a 
fine golden color or not Serve in a hot dish with 
a little Italian sauce poured under. 



383— Italian Sauce. 

1 cupful of brown sauce (roast meat gravy 
strained and skimmed). 

1 teaspoonful of mioced onion. 

3 of minced mushrooms. 

Same of parsley. 

Juice of 1 lemon. 

Cayenne and salt 

Pour half the juice from a can of mushrooms 
into the brown sauce, add the other ingredients 
and simmer together for fifteen minutes. 



383— IVIaslled Potatoes in a Mold. 

When mashing the potatoes add one or twoeggs, 
with the usual cup of milk, to enough potato to 
fill a 3-quart mold. Butter the mold well, fill 
and bake it half an hour set in another pan con- 
taining water. Turn out onto a dish. 



384- Kissoles of Partridge. 

3 roast partridges. 
14 cupful of mushrooms. 
1 small cupful of butter. 
Same of flour. 
1 cupful of cream. 
Same of broth or water. 
A slight grating of nutmeg, 
A little lemon juice, 
Pepper and salt 



76 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



Cut the meat of the roast partridges into the 
emallest poaaible dice, mince the mushrooms and 
add, sprinkle with a teaspoonful of mixed pepper 
and salt, grate a little nutmeg and squeeze a 
lemon over it 

Make cream sauce by stirring the butter and 
flour together in a saucepan and adding the 
broth and cream when it begins to bubble, and 
when the sauce is ready moisten the meat with 
it, stir up well and set it away to become cold. 
Then make out in rolls about the size of a finger, 
roll in flour, then in egg, then in cracker crumbs 
and fry in hot lard. Pile in the dish and gar- 
nish with fried parsley. 



385— Reed Birds, Kaasted. 

Pick and singe them, cut off the heads and 
feet, wipe clean without drawing them. Wrap 
a very thin piece of fat bacon around each one 
and run a skewer through about a dozen of them 
placed side by side. Make the oven hot and 
roast them with the ends of the skewers resting 
on the edges of a shallow pan on the top shelf. 
Turn them over once while cooking and brush 
over with butter. They should be done in six 
or eight minutes. Dish up on a bed of fried 
bread crumbs, withdrawing the skewers when 
the birds are in place. 

To prepare the bread crumbs out two slices of 
bread extremely thin and out them again into 
very small dice. Fry these a few moments in 
the clear part of melted butter made hot for the 
purpose. Take up with a skimmer and .drain. 



386— Stewed Celery. 

Cut tender, white outside stalks of celery into 
3-inch lengths and boil them for 10 mioutes in 
salted water. Then throw away the water and 
fill up instead with clear strained soup stock, add 
minced onion and parsley. Boil until the celery 
is tender, throw in a piece of butter softened and 
stirred up with flour, and shake the stew until 
thickened. Dish the pieces m straight order 
and pour the sauce over them. 



387— Turkey in Mayonaise Jelly. 

Cut the breast of a cooked turkey or chicken 
into slices and then, either with a round tin cut- 
ter or a knife, cut these again into shapes all 
alike. 

Make some good mayonaise sauce with lemon 
juice (No. 68), and mix with it nearly an equal 
amount of aspic jelly (No. 317), barely warmed 
enough to melt it. Cover the slices of turkey in 
the dish with the raayonaise-jelly and set the 
dish in the refrigerator. Mince a slice of cooked 
blood beet extremely fine and some parsley the 
same. Take up the slices of turkey on a fork, 
when the jelly ia set quite firm, and dip the 
upper side lightly into the minced parsley, and 
then into the beet, making them appear sprinkled 



over, and place in neat order in a clean dish. 
Garnish the edge with green, such as shred 
lettuce. 



388— Snow Cake and Fairy Butter. 

For the cake take : 

7 ounces granulated sugar — a small cup. 
6 ounces uncolored butter — the same. 
9 whites of eggs — 8 ounces. 

4 ounces of flour — a cupful. 

5 ounces of corn starch — the same. 
Little lemon juice or cream tartar. 
}{ cupful of milk. 

Flavoring extract. 

Warm the butter enough to soften it, rub it 
and the sugar together to a cream, add the white 
of eggs a little at a time without previous beat- 
ing, then the starch and flour. When these are 
well mixed add the milk and juice of half a 
lemon or a small teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 
and a teaspoonful of lemon extract Grease and 
flour a mold, and hake the cake about half an 
hour. It is best when not too deep in the mold 



389- Fairy Butter. 

The yolks of 4 hard boiled eggs. 

1 teacupf ul of the beat butter. 

3 heaping tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. 

1 teaspoonful orange flower water. 

Either grate the yolks or pound and rub them 
smooth in a bowl, mix the softened butter with 
them and the sugar and flavoring. Set the mixt- 
ure where it will get cold, and afterward rub it 
through a sieve. It looks something like ver- 
micelli. 

Pile the fairy butter lightly in the middle of a 
cake dish, cut the snow cake in slices and lay 
around. They are to be eaten together like 
bread and butter. 



390— Pineapple Sweet Salad. 

1 pineapple. 

1 teaoupful of powdered sugar. 

i.< cupful of maraschino. 

Peel a pineapple, cut it into uniform slices 
and cover them with the sugar in a Rlass dish. 
Let it remain to form a syrup, and when to be 
served add the marasehin \ 



391— Meiinsues vpith Wine Jelly. 

i whites of eggs. 

i small cupful fine granulated sugar. 

Tanilla or lemon ilavoring. 

Put the whites into a deep bowl, pan or pail, 
have them cold and beat with a bunch of wire 
until the froth is firm enougli to bear up an egg. 
Put in the sugar and a few drops of flavoring 
extract, and beat about half a minute longer. 

These meringues are to be lioUow, mere shells 
of pasting, and to make them so they are ba led 
on pieces of board that will not let the bottom i 
cook. 

Cut some strips of paper two inches wide, place 
them on boards that will go in the oven, drop 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



i; 



large spoonfuls of the meringue paste on the 
paper and form them in egg shapes or round, 
smoothing them with a knife dipped in water. 
Sift a little sugar over them, and dry bake in a 
slack oven about twenty minutes. Too much heat 
will cause them to melt and go down. When 
they are cold take them off the paper, and with a 
knife scoop out the soft inside. When to be served 
out different colors of clear wine jelly into 
small dice, mix them together, and pile up in 
the meringues, which serve as cups. Whipped 
cream may be used the same way instead of 
jelly. These meringues can also have a little 
whipped cream inserted and be joiued by twos 
tOijether by the bottoms. 



393— Star Kisses. 
A simpler form of meringue made of the same 
pasite or frosting as tlie foregoing, common in 
shops and hotels : Procure a tin star tube from 
the furnishing store. It is about the length of a 
finger and the point cut serrated. This is in- 
serted in the point of a funnel shaped bag, which is 
then filled with the paste, and star-shaped drops 
are pressed out on to baking pans slightly 
greased. They are baked to a light lawn color 
and slip off the pans easily when col '. No fill- 
ing required. A sheet of paper can be pinned in 
shape and the point cut so aa to do duty tem- 
porarily in place of the tube. 



393— Wine and Fruit Jellies. 

To make the brilliantly clear, many-hued, and 
delicately flavored jellies that are found on the 
tables of the best hotels and at the confectioners', 
the simple lemon jelly has first to be made in 
perfection. It is technically called stock jelly, 
because, when finished, it can be mixed witti 
wine or other liquors and cordials, or be flavored 
and colored to make as many varieties as may be 
desired. 

It may be as well to explain that these jellies 
are transient and will not keep over two or three 
days, not like the boiled fruit jellies, but of tlie 
same nature as the old-fashioned calf's foot jelly, 
made now with gelatine. 

Once making stock jelly should serve either 
for a large party or two or three meals. 

For 3 quarts of jelly take : 

3X quarts of water. 

13^ pounds of sugar. 

4 ounces of gelatine. 

5 lemons — juice of all, thin shaved rinds of 2 
or 3, according to size. 

1 ounce of whole spices — cloves, mace, and 
stick cinnamon. 

5 whites of eggs to clarify it. 

Put the water in a bright brass kettle, add all 
the other insredients — the lemon juice squeezed 
in without tlie seeas, the yellow rind pared very 
thin, and the white of eggs beaten a little with 
some water mixed in first. The clean egg shells 



mav be put in also to assist in the clarification 
Use the sheet gelatine that floats, for preference. 
Then set the kettle on the side of a range and 
let it slowly come to a boil with occasional stir- 
ring. 

Let it boil about half an hour, and above all, 
to avoid the trouble and waste of having to boil 
it again, be sure that the white foam of egg on 
top becomes thoroughly cooked so that it will go 
down and mix with the jelly again like so much 
meal. Sometimes, to accomplish this, as a lid 
cannot be kept on without its boiling over, it is 
necessary to set the kettle in the oven a few min- 
utes to get heat enough ou top. 

Then run it through a jelly bag suspended from 
a hook. The boiling having been properly at- 
tended to, there should not be the slightest diffi- 
culty m getting it to run through not only clear 
but bright and transparent as glass. The first 
pouring coats the inside of the filtering bag with 
the coagulated white of egg. and each succeeding 
running through brightens the jelly. 



It may be set down as a rule that this kind of 
jelly cannot be successfully made without more 
or less lemon juice, or some acid equivalent — -it 
will not run through a filtering bag without. A 
cheaper quality can be made with less sugar and 
lemons. 

The stock having been made, it can now be di- 
vided into as many kinds as may he wished. But 
the stock jelly is already good and mildly fla- 
vored and care should be takea n ot to over season 
it, or injure its bright appearance. 

Jelly is quite as much for ornament as use. 
It can easily be made to attract notice at the 
finest table for ils luster and rich colors even 
if never tasted, therefore its appearance 
is the main consideration. Lemon ex- 
tract cannot be put into jelly because it 
makes a milky appearance and dims its brill- 
iancy. Orange extract the same. Most of the 
other extracts can be used to flavor. Use wine 
in small proportion to mix with some of the 
stock, and color deep red, but run through the 
jelly bag again while it is yet warm. Flavor 
some with vanilla, and color it either amber or 
brown with burnt sugar. Flavor some with 
strawberry and color it pink, and leave some 
plain, pale yellow. 

394-One Quart ot Jelly. 

The rule is, for good quality: 

1 quart of water. 

IX ounces of gelatine. 

8 ounces of sugar. 

1 or 2 lemons. 

1 teaspoonful of whole mixed spices. 

2 whites of eggs and the clean shells. 

But a cupful of water must be added to allow 
for evaporation and loss, unless it is intended to 
add J^ pint of wine to the stock jelly produced. 



78 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



For jellies to serve ordinarily at dinner peur 
them iu bright pans an inch or more in depth, 
and when set cut out little diamond-shaped 
blocks and serve two such pieces of different 
color in the same saucer. 



395--Apricot Ice. 

3 cupfuls of apricots cut in pieces. 

1 cupful of sugar — 8 ounces. 

2 cupfuls of water. 

The kernels of halt the apricots. 

8 whites of eggs. 

The ripest and sweetest apricots, if the fresh 
fruit bo used, should be kept out, one cupful to 
be mixed in the ice when finished. 

Stew the other 3 cupfuls and the peeled ker- 
nels in the water and sugar for a few minutes, 
rub the fruit then with the back of a spoon, 
through a strainer into the freezer along with the 
syrup. Freeze like ice cream and when it is 
nearly finished whip the two whites to a firm 
froth, mix them in and turn the freezer rapidly a 
short time longer. Stir in the out apricots just 
before serving. Canned apricots can be used as 
well, and if in syrup that can be mixed in also. 



396-EcUhart's Wedding: Cake. 

The recipe was presented by the caterer to a 
Chicago belle whose marriage feast he prepared, 
It has traveled an immense distance since, and 
come to light again in the heart of a great wilder- 
ness. 

3 pounds of sugar. 
1}^ pounds of butter. 
13 eggs. 

2 pounds of flour. 

8 tablespoonfuls of winSo 
Same of brandy. 
6 nutmegs ground or grated. 
.5 pounds of raisins. 

4 pounds of currants. 

3 pounds of citron. 

Stone the raisins, wash and dry the currants, 
cut the citron small, then mix all three together 
and dust them with a cupful of flour. 

Mix the flrst four ingredients together the same 
as if for pound cake, add the liquors, nutmeg, 
and then the fruit. 

Line the mold with buttered paper, and wrap 
another paper around the outside and tie it with 
twine. Bake the cake about three hours. 



397— Iced Tea. 

To have it perfect and without the least trace 
of bitter, put tea in cold water hours before it is 
to be used ; the delicate flavor of the tea and 
abundant strength will be extracted, and there 
will not be a trace of the tannic acid, which ren- 
ders tea so often disagreeable and undrinkable. 
You need not use more than the usual quantity 



of tea. Put broken ice in it a few minutes be- 
fore serving. 

Iced tea can be served with a light froth, like 
that of ale, on top, if shaken with the ice in it in 
two glasses placed one over the other — the brims 



MENU NO. XXXIX.— SUPPER. 



398— Oyster Slew— Milk Stew, 

Cook the oysters and the milk in separate 
saucepans. Dip the oysters from the saucepan 
into the bowl they are to be served in, add a 
ladleful of milk and a small piece of fresh but- 
ter. Serve crackers, butter and shred cabbage 
separately with the stew. 



Oysters do not always curdle the milk when 
boiled in it, but there is always a danger that 
they may, so the rule is not to run any risk. Be- 
sides, to cook the oysters in the milk, although 
good for flavor, always makes a dingy lookmg 
stew, with a scum on top. To obtain the beat 
quality and appearanee, boil some oyster liquor 
separately and keen It ready for orders. As it 
reaches boiling point the scum on top can be 
skimmed off, and after that pour it through a 
fine strainer into a clean saucepan, and you have 
the oyster essence clear and ready for use with- 
out detriment to the appearances. 



It is with cooking an oyster as with cooking an 
egg. It may be either soft boiled or hard boiled, 
only there Is the difference that an oyster boiled 
hard is spoiled. To cook oysters ,for stews set 
some of the liquor that has been boiled as above 
mentioned, on iu a little saucepan and drop iu 
the oysters with a fork. Add a pinch of salt and 
pepper, shake them back and forth while heating 
and as soon as the liquor fairly boils they are 
done. Time about three minutes for one stew. 



399— Plain Stew. 
The oysters cooked as above with the liquor 
only served with them, and no milk. 



400— Dry Stew— Restaurant Order. 

The same as plain stew without the liquor, or 
with only a spoonful. 



401— Boston Fancy Stew — Restaurant Order. 

The milk stew with a slice of buttered toast 
floating in it and the oysters on the toast. Use 
a large, shallow bowl, put the square of toast in 
it flrst, drain the liquor of the stew into it and 
place the oysters neatly. 



40a— Fried Smelts. 

Draw the fish through the gills without open- 
ing them and wipe them clean. Dip in beaten 
egg and cracker meak Be careful not to rub off 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



79 



the breading, as it will not stick a second time, 
and there is a bad appearance when fried. Fry 
a few at a time in a pan of hot lard. They should 
be done and of a handsome light brown color m 
4 minutes. 



403— Potato Bouleltes in Cream. 

Scoop out a cupful of potato balls the size of 
cherries (See JNo. 283), steam or boil them, and 
when just done and before they break pour over 
them some hot cream sauce, or thickened milk 
with salt and butter in it. 



404— Teal Ducks, Broiled. 

There are blue-wing and green-wing teal, 
nearly alike, though the blue-wing seems to be 
preferred ; and the butter-ball duck comes next 
in quality and size. 

Having picked and singed them, split them 
down the back and draw them. Cut off neck 
and feet. Wash them off quickly in cold water 
and wipe dry, and flatten them slightly to broil- 
ing shape with a tap of the cleaver. Lay the 
duck on a plate, dredge with salt and pepper and 
brush over both sides with butter. Broil on the 
gridiron over clear coals, the inside first, about 
15 minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with a border 
of small pieces of toast or chip potatoes, and 
■with currant jelly or a quartered lemon, or with 
the following sauce. 



iOB—Orause Sauce for Game. 

1 orange. 

1 cupful ot brown sauce. 

J^ cupful of claret. 

A little cayenne. 

Shave off very thinly the yellow rind of about 
a quarter of the orange and boil it in the brown 
sauce about 10 minutes. Cut half the orange 
into small slices and remove the pith and seeds. 

iStrain the brown sauce from the peel, throw 
into it the orange slices, squeeze in the juice of 
the remaining half, add the claret and cayenne, 
let boil up and skim off the film that will rise. 

If there is no brown sauce on hand soup stock 
can be used and thickened with a spoonful of 
flour worked in a small piece of soft butter. 
Pour the sauce under the ducks in the dish and 
dispose the juice of orange around them. 



406— Fried Hominy Cakes. 

1 large cupful of cooked coarse hominy. 
1 tablespoonful of flour. 
1 egg- 
Take cold hominy that has been well cooked 
and IS ary (see No. 333) and pouud it with a po- 
tato masher to make it adhesive, mix in the flour 
and egg. If not already seasoned it will require 
salt and a little butter. Make it out in flat bis- 
cuit shapes with floured hands and fry brown in 
a frying-pan. 



407 -Strins Beans, French Way. 

Drain away the water from a can of string 
beans, put them into a small sauce-pan and shake 
them over the fire, without water, until they are 
quite hot Put in a piece of fresh butter, the 
size of an egg, salt, pepper and the juice of half 
a lemon, or a spoonful of vinegar. When the 
butter has melted and become hot they are ready 
to serve. 



408— Chicken Salad. 

Pick the meat from a boiled fowl and cut it 
into very small dice. Cut likewise about the 
same quanitity of celery not quite so small and 
put them into separate bowls. Season both with 
salt and white pepper, and a few tablespoonfuls 
of olive oil and the same amount of vinegar. 
Stir to mix thoroughly. When to be served heap 
the chicken in the middle of a flat dish or dishes, 
place the celery around it as a border, and spread 
over th"^ chicken a coating of thick mayonaise. 
Garnish with quartered hard-boiled eggs. In 
the best hotels there is a perpetual change in the 
salads and ways of placing them in the dishes. 
The celery and chicken may be mixed together, 
and, again, be mixed with the dressing, made 
thin as cream for the purpose, but part left thick 
for the top covering. The chicken should always 
be out, if possible, and not chopped. 

409— Mock Mayonaise. 

}4 cupful of thick cream sauce or butter sauce, 
cold. 

Half as much olive oil 

Same of vinegar. 

legg. 

Salt, made mustard, sugar, cayenne, a small 
allowance of each. 

Any white sauce that may have been made 
witu flour for other articles will answer if thick 
enough and cold. Drop in the egg and stir it 
around rapidly ; add a tablespoonful of oil, then 
one of vinegar, and keep stirring and adding by 
spoonfuls till all is mixed in, then add the sea- 
sonings. 

This dressing will be thick enough to coat 
over a salad. It is best to set the pan in ice 
water while stiring, as it thicliens sooner if quite 
cold. 

410— Apple Shortcake. 

Make a flaky short puff paste of medium rich- 
ness by the method described for puff paste. 
No. .5J, using 

1 cupful of butter or lard— 6 ounces. 

3 rounded cupfuls flour — 9 ounces. 

J,^ cupful of ice water. 

When the paste has been rolled and folded six 
times cover two jellycake pans with it, trim 
around and bake them plain. When done spread 
a thick layer of apple cream on one, place tlie 
other on top, and for a finish wet half a cupful oi 



80 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



powdered sugar with two spoonfuls of water; 
spread this wet sugar over the surface and let it 
drv. 



411 — Apple Cream. 

2 cupfuls of grated apples. 

1 small cupful of sugar. 
Butter size of a walnut 

2 tableapoonf uls of water, 
legs- 

Orange or lemon peel for flavor. 

Either grate apples on a tin grater or finely 
mince them; put the specified quantity into a 
saucepan with all the other ingredients and stir 
them over the fire about ten minutes. 



413— Grapes Glazed with Susar. 

Divide some bunches of grapes into small 
clusters. 

Put into a deep saucepan, 

1 pound of sugar. 

A large half cupful of water. 

3^ teaepoonful of cream lartar. 

Stir to dissolve the sugar, then set it on to 
boil, as if for candy. 

When the syrup has boiled 10 minutes try a 
drop in cold water. When it sets so that it is 
hard to press between finger and thumb and the 
edges of drops are hard and brittle it is ready. 

Take it from the fire, dip the clusters of grapes 
in (without ever stirring tne candy) and lay them 
on dishes slightly greased to dry. Should the 
candy become set in the kettle it may have a 
spoonful or two of water added and be made hot 
again. 

MENU XL— BANQUET. 



413— Oysters on tile Balr Shell. 

The small, but fat and shapely oysters are 
chosen for serving in the shell, preliminary to a 
dmner, known at present by the names of Blue 
Points, Shrewsburys, Morris Elvers and others. 
Brush them clean in cold water before opening. 
Place four, five or six in each small plate, in 
whichever shell happens to be the best shaped 
for holding them, and a quarter of a lemon in 
the center. For sale by the dozen, the large 
oysters are naturally preferred. 

As to the grades of oysters it may be useful to 
parties in business to state that "Counts" or New 
York counts are the largest oysters sold by count 
and not by the gallon. "Culls" are the largest "se- 
lects. " "Selects" are the ordinarily large oysters 
sold by gallon or can. "Straights" are sunposed 
to De of all sizes unsorted. "Standards" are 
small oysters, and there is a grade below known 
as "common." Tliese quotations — as the dealers 
in perishable articles say — are subject to altera- 
tion at any time. A can that will hold only three 
dozen of the largest oysters will hold eight dozen 



of the small grade, which makes it possible for 
retailers of a certain class to sell by the dozen at 
apparently a very low price. 



414-Cold Slaw. 
Shred tender white cabbage extremely fine, 
put it into a bowl, sprinkle with salt, mince half 
a pod of red pepper very small and add that and 
vinegar enough to moisten. Set on the table in 
pickle dishes or in individual deep scollops. 



415— Olives. 

Are in request only in one way, that is raw, in 
pickle dishes on the table, where they should 
have broken ice strewn upon them. They are 
used to some extent in the sauces of entrees and 
for ornamenting salads, but seldom eaten other- 
wise than as a cold relish. A small sort can be 
bought by the keg cheaper for secondary pur- 
poses^ but Spanish olives in bottles for the table. 



416-Winter Salad. 

1 cupful of red pickled cabbage. 

1 cupful of cooked salsify, cut small. 

1 cupful of leaves of water cress. 

1 pickled (salt or soused) herring. 

Wash the herring, and without cooking it, pick 
the meat from the bones and cut it small, the 
cabbage and salsify likewise, mix all together, 
season with oil and vinegar, pepper sauce, and 
perhaps a little salt. The red cabbage is for 
making this a dish of mixed colors; when not at 
hand some substitute, such as radishes or beets, 
can be used. Set it in pickle dishes on the 
table. 



417— Potage a la ReiDe. 

2 quarts of chicken broth. 

3 solid cupfuls of chicken meat. 
1 cupful of boiled rice. 

1 pint of cream or milk. 



This is a puree soup like the potato, cream and 
puree of beans, but thickened, instead, with the 
paste or puree of pounded chicken and rice. 

Procure a pound, or 3 cupfuls of clear chicken 
meat tender enough to mash to a paste, either 
from 3 or 3 young chickens i-oasted, or 1 large 
fowl boiled. Mince it fine, pound it smooth, add 
the rice to it while poundins, pour in some of the 
broth to moisten it, then rub it through a per- 
forated tin gravy strainer or a seive. . 

The chicken (or veal) broth should have a 
small bunch of parsley, 1 stalk of celery, a small 
piece of onion and piece of broken nutmeg boiled 
in it, and if obtainable a sprig of green thyme, 
and after that be strained. Mix it boiling hot 
with the puree of chicken and rice; set on bricks 
or at the back of the stove to keep hot without 
boiling, and boil the cream separately and pour 
It in at last. Season with salt and white pepper. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



81 



41S— Consomme JulieuBe. 

2 quarts of soup stock. 

1 white turuip. 

A piece of yellow ruta baga turnip. 

1 carrot 

1 onion. 

1 head of celery. 

Make the soup stock clear by letting it settle in 
a jar or pail after the first straining from the 
boiler, removing the fat, and then, without dis- 
turbing the sediment, pouring it through a nap- 
kin set in a colander or through a jelly bag. The 
size and quantity of the vegetables is not a mat- 
ter of much consequence, but too little is better 
than too much, as they consume time in the 
shredding. Cut them first into very thin slices, 
then into shreds an inch or two long and as thin 
as straws. Put them into a saucepan with but- 
ter size of an egg and half as much sugar, sim- 
mer in the butter with the steam shut in until 
they begin to brown on the bottom, then pour in 
the stock and boil about half an hour. Skim 
while boiling. Season with salt and cayenne. If 
not of a light brown color add a spoonful of 
burnt sugar caramel. It is a clear soup, but it 
does no harm to give body to it with a spoonful 
of starch wetted with broth. 



419— Baked Stitr^feoii. 

As only two or three ounces of fish is generally 
served to each person on a small plate, it is easy 
to calculate the amount to be provided, allowing 
something like one-third for shrinkage in cook- 
ing. 

When it is a large fish it is better for this way 
of cooking to have two broad and not very thick 
cuts across the fish than to have one solid sec- 
tion, that each person may receive a like portion 
of the browned surface — in short, for con- 
venience of serving. 

Let the fish lie in cold salted water a while be- 
fore cooking. Put it on in boiling water or 
broth that has an onion and a quarter cupful of 
vinegar in it, boil gently at the side of the range 
lor about forty-five minutes. Take it up with- 
out breaking, brush over with beaten egg, sift 
on all the cracker meal or crushed bread crumbs 
that will stick, put it in a pan with enough of the 
liquor it was boiled in to keep the pan from 
burning, and when the surface has become hot 
enough to set the breading so that it will not 
wash off, basle with butter and let it brown. 
Serve with anchovy sauce and a small portion of 
potato in some form in the same plate. 
430— -inchovy Sauce. 

1 heaping tablespoonful of flour. 

Same weight of batter. 

1 cupful of liquor the fish was boiled In. 

2 tablespoonf uls essence of anchovies. 
1 of lemon juice. 

A pinch of cayenne. 

Warm the butter and flour, stir them together 
in a frying-pan and bakeUgUt brown in the oven. 



Pour in the liquor, boil up, strain, add the other 
ingredients. When there is brown sauce on 
hand use that instead, with the essence, etc., 
added. 



431— Potato CruUs. 

Pare good, smooth potatoes raw. Cut them 
into thick slices, as many as there will be plates 
of fish. Cut out the centers with an apple corer, 
making rings. Take a small penknife and be- 
gin inside and cut the slice all around into a coil 
or string as thin as may be without breaking 
through till the knife comes out at the outer 
edge. Fry the cruUs in hot lard, light colored. 
Drain, and sprinkle with fine salt. 



433- Boiled Corned Tonsfue, Caper Sauce. 

Fresh tongues put in a jar and covered with 
the brine or pickle No. 100, will be of a good 
pink color and nicely waited m from a week to 
ten days. 

Wash off the corned tongue and boil it three 
hours. Plunge it in cold water and peel off the 
skm then set it in a hot place. In carving cut 
slantingly to make long slices that will not run 
out too small at the thin end. Serve with caper 
sauce, which is butter sauce with a little of the 
caper vinegar mixed in and the capers — about a 
teaspoonful — dashed on top of the sauce on the 
meat. 



483— Mashed Parsnips. 

Pare and cut them small, steam an hour or 
more, mash and season the same as potatoes ex- 
cept that a little white pepper should be added, 
or cayenne or a finely minced piece of red pep- 
per if that is not to be had. Keep hot in a sauce- 
pan. Whatever is left over will make parsnip 
fritters, which are a favorite dish if well made. 
See No. 125, 

434— The Fillet of Beef. 

The fillet, otherwise known as the tenderloin, 
of beef is the long band of meat inside of the 
loin that, beginning in a thin point at the last 
rib, extends the whole length of the loin, almost 
to the end. The very tender, lower meaty por- 
tion of every porter house steak and sirloin steak 
is a slice of the fillet. When cut out of a loin of 
beef entire, it weighs from 3 to 5 pounds, accord- 
ing to the size of the beef and closeness of trim- 
ming. When, after being divested of fat and 
•kin, the thin end is out away and the thick end 
trimmed and rounded, the smooth fillet, ready 
for roasting, will weigh about 3 pounds, all solid 
lean— enough for from fifteen to twenty cuts 
after cooking. 

While the fillet, on account of both its tender- 
ness and its symmetrical shape for serving 
whole has been favored with greater attention by 
the decorative cooks than any other piece of 
meat whatsoever, it should be remembered that 
when it is served at dinner to the average 



82 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



American as honest beef, and not so much as a 
tiling of beauty, it had better not be much fixed 
up and diSRuised, but only splendidly plain 
roasted, with the thick end rare, when it is 
not the only reliance for roast beef; but there ia 
another cut ready for those who are dissatisfied, 
The fillet, as an entree (a dish that the majority 
are unkind enough to regard as not a principal, 
^ut an unimportant side dish,', can be larded 
^ith fat bacon, flavored with vegetables, herbs 
ind spices, and steeped in olive oil and lemon 
juice, as we will show in detail further on. 



435— Koast Fillet of Beef, with Mnshroorns. 

A fillet, to be plainly yet skillfully roasted, to 
he carved in the kitchen and not sent to table 
whole, need not have all the fat removed, only 
cut down thin. It must bo cut off the top side, 
however, which means the side that had tbe 
kidney fat upon it, and a ribbon-like strip of the 
skin covering taken off the meat tbe whole length 
down, as otherwise it will draw up in 
the oven. Make the pan hot first and 
put into it all tbe pieces of meat and a little of 
the fat that has been trimmed off the fillet, and 
let them stew and bake in tue pan with a pint of 
water and a little salt to make a glaze or gravy 
OQ the bottom for the fillet to be rolled in at last. 
An hour after, or when the water is nearly all 
gone out of the pan, make the oven hotter and 
put the fillet in and roast off quickly. 

It may be done enough with the thickest part 
medium rare in a hot oven in half an hour or 
three-quarters, and is sure to be done through 
in an hour. Never stick a fork in it, but roll it 
over in the pan by means of a broad fork and 
spoon several times, which will make it shine 
with the lig t brown glaze, and make it cut full 
of juice when done. 

Lift out the roast meat, then the fat pieces 
from the pan, and pour off the grease, which 
will be clear if the water has been allowed to 
boil away; put in a pint of soup stock and let 
bod up in the range. Thicken either with fiour 
mixed in soft butter or with flour and water ; 
strain into a saucepan. Boil it on top of the 
range, and put in some of the liquor from a can 
of mushrooms, cold That will cause fat and 
scnm to rise. Skim off, put in mushrooms, and 
let boil again. Serve the meat with the natural 
gravy on the slices, and mushrooms in sauce 
around. 



436— Oyster Plant Croquettes. 

Pare the salsify or oyster plant thinly, and 
either boil or steam quite tender, which may take 
an hour and a half in the tall, but a shorter 
time after frost, when this vegetable is at its 
best Cook the roots whole, or only cut across, 
mash plain when done, and take — 

1 cupful of dry mashed salsify. 

Butter, size of a walnut. 



1 teaspoonf ul of mixed salt and pepper. 

Yolk of egg. 

1 tablespoonful of vinegar. 

Mix well by pounding together, make up in 
little balls, with plenty of flour on the haud8, 
and fry them yellow in hot lard. 



437— Koast Turkey Stufted with Chestnuts. 

Singe and draw a young turkey. Cut off the 
neck about midway, and when the crop has been 
taken out, without cutting the skin of the breast, - 
shorten the neckbone still more and pull the 
skin over the end and tie it. When the turkey 
has been washed and prepared make the follow- 
ing stuffing: 

3 cupfuls of pork sausage meat 

1 pressed cupful of bread crumbs. 

40 or 50 of the large foreign chestnuts. 

Mix the bread crumbs in the sausage meat 
dry, and add a little salt and pepper. 

Boil the chestnuts 3^3 hour, peel them, scrape 
off the furry inside skin, mix them with the 
sausage and break and stuff the turkey with it. 

Roast according to size from 1}^ to 2V^ hours. 
If a large turkey that must stay in a long time, 
keep a sheet of greased paper over it in the oven 
to prevent bhstering the surface. 

438— Chestnut Sauce for Koast Turkey. 

Boil chestnuts tender, peel, cut them in halves 
and mix them in the brown sauce made in the 
turkey pan. 

439-Bakecl Winter Squash. 

Bake it in pieces without paring. Those with 
the hardest shell are oftenest tbe best eating, but 
difficult to divide neatly. The common expedient 
ia to put a whole squash in a steamer, after wash- 
ing off the outside, and let it stay there half an 
hour. That softens the shell sufficiently, and it 
can be cut in strips about the width of two fingers. 
Place these in a baking pan, brush them with a 
brush dipped in butter and sprinkled with a little 
salt and a little sugar. BaJie without burning, 
with greased paper, if necessary. 

430— Larded Sweethreati-s. 

Having boiled the sweetbreads thirty to sixty 
minutes, according to size, and allowed them to 
get quite cold, according to directions at No. 363. 
Cut them for this dish in two, or possibly three 
slices if large, the broad way, and lard them — 
that is, draw them full of little strips of fat ba- 
con. These strips should be scarcely thicker 
than a pencil and not so long as the little finger. 
There are larding needles for the purpose, cost- 
ing but a dime or two, that have the ends split 
open for the bacon to he inserted and so drawn 
through the meat^ The easy way is to take an- 
other large needle of any kind, catch up the end 
of one of these strips of bacon on the point and 
draw it by that means into the open end of the 
larding needle, and then with the larding needle 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



83 



into the meat, the ends showing on each side of 
the shoe. 

When the sliced sweetbreads are drawn 
full of strips of hacon place them close 
together in a baking-pan, mince a tablespoon- 
ful of onions and sprinkle over them, and 
perhaps a little green herbs, if any 
at hand, pour in equal parts of strong soup 
stock (made strong by boiling down on the 
range) and brown meat gravy, but only enough 
altogether to come up level with the sweet- 
breads, then bake them until brown on top. 
Baste them with the sauce from the corner of 
the pan and let bake until that is dried on them. 
Then take them up on to a dish or dishes. Warm 
some olives in gravy and cut a lemon in small 
pieces, and dish them up with the gravy around 
the sweetbreads. 



431— Stewed liamb, with Tomatoes. 

2 pounds of breast of lamb. 

I cupful mixed vegetables, cut in dice. 

1 cupful of tomatoes. 

1 tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 

Salt and pepper. 

Saw the breast or brisket of lamb lengthwise 
through the bones ; then divide in pieces, wash, 
and put it on to stew in water or broth enough 
just to cover; cut carrots, turnips and onions 
{enough xo fill a cup) in squares, and boil them 
in water separately; pour off the water when 
they are half done and put them in the stew, and 
also the tomatoes. Boil half an hour longer, 
thicken slightly if necessary, season, and at last 
throw in the parsley. 

The above makes a very pretty dish. In dish- 
ing up take up two pieces of the meat for each 
dish and place them square in the middle of an 
individual flat platter, and dish the vegetables 
and sauce in order at each end. 



43S— Spaghetti and Clieese— Romaine. 

Spaghetti is macaroni in another form, a solid 
cord instead of a tube. 
i ounces of spaghetti — 2 cupfuls when broken. 
1 cupful of minced cheese — 3 ounces. 

1 cupful of milk. 
Butter size of an egg. 

2 yolks of eggs. 

This dish ought to be quite yellow. Throw the 
spaghetti into water that is already boiling, and 
salted. After cookiug 20 minutes drain it dry, 
and put it into the buttered dish it is to be baked 
in. 

Put the cheese and butter and half the milk 
into a saucepan and stir them over the fire till 
the cheese is nearly melted, mix the yolus with 
the rest of the milk, pour that into the saucepan, 
then add the whole to the spaghetti in the pan, 
and bake it a yellow brown in as short a time as 
possible. It loses its richness if cooked too 
long, through the toughenin;; of the olieese. 



433— Russian Pnnch. 

a cupfuls of tea, made as for drinking. 
1 cupful of water. 

1 cupful of port wine. 
3^ cupful of brandy. 

3 small cupfuls of sugar., 

2 lemons — ripe and thin skinned. 

Cut the lemons without grating or squeezing, 
in small slices into a bowl, make a boiling syrup 
of the sugar and water and pour over them and 
let stand until cold. Then put in the tea and 
hquors and strain the punch into a freezer and 
freeze as hard as the spirit in it will allow. Save 
the lemon slices and mix them in at the finish. 



434— Roast Partridgre witli Cress. 

Cleanse them the same as chickens and wipe 
di'y. Bind very thin bands of fat bacon on the 
breasts, and roast them in a pan in the oven for 
about 20 or .30 minutes. Bemove the bacon, roll 
them in the pan and brown the surface quickly. 
Serve them in a dish, or halves in individual 
dishes, with water cress, crisp and fresh, but 
quite free from water, at each end. 



435— Dressed Crab. 

Pick the meat from the shell and claws, cut 
the solid part into small pieces, dry the soft part 
with the addition of a spoonful of fine bread 
crumbs, mix all with a little oil, vinegar and 
mustard. Wash and dry the shells and serve 
the meat in them, placed on a bed of something 
green — lettuce, cress, young celery plants or 
parsley. 

436— Custard Fritters Glazed. 

A sort of sliced custard, breaded and fried, 
very rich and very generally liked, made of 

1 cupful of milk. 

2 tablespoonsfuls of sugar. 

1 tablespoonful of corn starch. 
1 heaping tablespoonful of flour. 

3 yolks of eggs. 
Butter size of a walnut 
Flavoring. Pinch of salt 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it, which pre- 
vents burning. Mix the starch and flour in a 
cup, with a spoonful of cold milk extra, and 
some of that on the fire; pour in when the milk 
boils and let boil thick. Beat in the butter and 
yolks and take it off. Flavor with lemon or 
other extract, and let it get cold like mush, in a 
buttered pan. Cut in thick slices or blocks, roll 
in beaten egg and then in cracker meal, fry 
golden yellow in hot lard. Pour over the hot 
slices when they are served a thick, transnarent 
glaze, like the following: 



437-Rich Sauce lor Fritters. 

1 cupful of water. 

J-^ cupful of sugar. 

1 tablespoonful of corn starch, 



84 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



y^ cupful of ouraooa or rum. 

Mix the starch in the sugar dry, boil the water 
and stir them in. Take it from the fire and add 
the curacoa. It changes to a pink color. Other 
flavormgs can be used. Have it thick enough to 
glaze the articles. 



438— liemon Mince Fatties. 

Koll out pie paste to a thm sheet, and cut out 
like cookies with a scallop-edge cutter. Line 
the bottoms of patty pans or gem pans, of the 
right size, with these, half fill them with lemon 
mince meat, and cover with another of the cuts 
of paste. Tiie bottom piece of paste, when put 
in, should be pressed with the thumbs up the 
sides of the pan, to spread it up to the rim. 
Brush the tops over with a little egg and water, 
dredge sugar on top, and bake the patties in a 
slack oven. 



439— Leniun Mince Meat. 

Has no meat in it, but 
4 lemons. 

a pounds of white sugar. 
2 pounds of currants. 

1 pound of seedless raisins. 

2 pounds of suet. 

1 ounce of mixed ground spices. 

}^ pint of brandy and port wiuo mixed. 

Use lemons that are ripe and thin-skinned, not 
harsh and bitter. Boil them in a quart of water 
till the water is half boiled away. Then squeeze 
the juice into the sugar, throw away the seeds, 
and mince the lemon rinds and pulp small. 

Gut or chop the raisins, mince the suet fine, 
and mix all the ingredients together. Keep in a 
covered jar. 

The water the lemons were boiled in should be 
added to the mince. 



440— Rhubarb Marmalade for Tarts. 
Rhubarb flavored with oranges and boiled 
down with sugar. 
4 cupfuls of rhubarb cut very small. 

2 cupfula of sugar. 

3 oranges — or orange peel only. 

Grate the yellow rind of the oranges into the 
saucepan and then cut up the insides, carefully 
excluding the seeds and white pith. Put in a 
spoonful or two of water to wet the bottom, then 
the sugar and rhubarb, and simmer at the back 
of the rauge with a lid on for an hour. Keep in 
a jar. Use to fill tarts or spread between layers 
ef cake. 



441— Frozen Fie: Puddintr. 

Figs cut small and mixed in caramel ice cream 
and frozen in brick molds is a most excellent 
combination — a modified tutti frutti. 

1 quart of milk. 

8 yolks of eggs. 

14 ounces of sugar. 

1 pound of figa 

The caramel gives the flavor, but half a cup- 
ful of curacoa improves it. 



Take four tablespoonfula of the sugar to 
make caramel, put it into a saucepan or fry 
mg-pan over the fire without any water, and 
let it melt ani3 become a medium molasses 
color, not burnt, however, then pour in half a 
cupful of water, and let boil and dissolve. 

Make rich boiled custard of the milk, sugar 
and yolks, pour the caramel into it, strain into 
the freezer, and freeze as usual. Cut the figs 
small as raisins and mix them in. Put the ice 
cream into Neapolitan molds, and bed them in- 
ice and salt for two hours. See Nos. 266 and 
267 for details. 



443— Finger Biscuits— X iu Kecipe, 

8 ounces of fine granulated sugar. 
4 egga. 

4 tablesDoonfuls of water. 

6 ounces of flour — a heaping cup. 

Separate the eggs, the whites into a bowl, the 
yolUa into the mixing pan. Put the water and 
sugar in with the yolks and beat them with a 
bunch of wire ten minutes, till they are a thick 
Ught batter. Have the flour ready. Whip the 
whites to a very firm froth, then mix the flour 
with the yolk mixture and stir the whites in last 
Fill a stiff paper cornet with the point cut off (or 
a lady finger sack and tube) with the batter, and 
press out finger lengths on to a sheet of manilla 
paper. Sift powdered sugar over, shake off the 
surplus and lay the sheet on a baking pan. Bake 
about six minutes. Dampen the paper under 
side, take the cakes off and place by twos to- 
gether. 

443— Ansel Food, or White Sponge Cake. 

5 whites of eggs — or 6 if small. 

.5 ounces fine granulated sugar — }^ cup. 

2J^ ounces flour— 1.< cup. 

1 rounded teaspoonful cream tartar. 

1 teaspoonful vanilla or lemon extract 

Mix the cream tartar in the flour by sifting 
them together. Whip the whites firm, put in 
the sugar and beat a few seconds, add the fla- 
voring, then stir in the flour lightly without beat- 
ing. Aa soon as mixed put the cake in the ovea 
It needs careful baking like a meringue, in a 
slack oven and should stay in from twenty to 
thirty miuutes. A small, deep, smooth mold is 
the best and should not Ije greased. When the 
cake is done turn it upside down and leave it to 
get cold in the mold before trying to take it out 

When you have pure cream tartar from a drug 
store use only half as much as of the common 
leat the cake taste of it 



444-Kich Fruit or Wedding Cabe. 

1 pound of sugar. 

1 "% pounds of butter. 

10 eggs. 

V^/i pounds of flour. 

Mix the above like polind cake, then add: 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



85 



IJ^ pounds of seedlesa raieius. 

13^ pounds of currants. 

1 pound of citron. 

8 ounces of almonds, blanched. 

1 tablespoonful of mixed ground apices. 

Half pint of brandy. 

1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 

Bake in molds lined with buttered paper. 
Takes from 1 to 3 hours according to depth. 
This cake cannot be cut while fresh without 
crumbling, but becomes moiater and firm with a 
few days' lieeping. 



445— Frosted Grapes. 

Take grapes of two colors, as red Tokays and 
white Muscadels and pull the bunches apart into 
clusters of three or four grapes each. Prepare 
a platter with the sort of pulverized sugar 
known aa fine granulated, and make it warm. 
Whip some white of eggs in a shallow bowl, 
dip the grapes in it, lay them on the sugar and 
sift more sugar on top. Lay them on sieves to 
dry. 

446— Brie Cheese, or Fromaffe de Brie. 

Is a cream cheese, often soft when cut, and of 
high ilavor ; is round and shallow, comes in a 
flat box, usually weighs four jDounda, and retails 
at SO cents per pound. The cream cheese made 
by the recipe No. 109 resembles Brie when made 
large enough and kept until ripe. 

447— Neufcliatel Clieese. 

la the small cheese, weighing about four ounces, 
done up in tinfoil ; sells at about $1 per dozen. 
The sour milk cheese made by the recipe 110, if 
made with a proportion of cream mixed in, and 
kept some time, resembles NeufchateL This 
cheese varies in character, according to the time 
it is kept, from the mildness of sour curd when 
fresh to a dry mold and strong flavor when aged. 
Some who will condemn it in one state will be 
suited with another sample of it. The foreign 
cheeses bearing these designations are said to be 
made with proportions of goat's milk, or have 
other peculiarities. 

448— Roquelort Cheese. 

A dry and high-flavored cheese, of the common 
round and thick shape ; sells at about the same 
price aa Brie, and is of about the same weight. 

These three are the oftenest served at dinners 
where something less common than Western 
cheese is desired. The hardest water crackers 
are served at the same time. 



MENU NO. XLI.— BREAKFAST. 



449— .Inte-Breakfasl: Oranees. 

When an orange is at the most luscious 
stage of ripeness it must seem an act of super- 



fluous care to serve It in any but its natural 
state, particularly at the morning meal, though 
there are well known ways of serving it sliced in 
a bowl with sugar over, as a sweet salad, and 
with the addition of a liqueur, and later it has 
been suggested that even with salad oil, lemon 
juice and cayenne the orange is delicious. But 
while the preference is so generally for keepiug 
the natural fruit just beyond the verge of the 
cook's jurisdiction, we will let a sprightly writer 
— or two of them — in the midst of the groves of 
Florida discourse upon a matter of which we 
can otlierwiae know nothing, that is the difficulty 
and danger there is in eating an orange with its 
jacket on. • 

We had not beard of any written rule prescrib- 
iug just when to eat an orange, and, in the ab- 
sence of any time card, we have been going it 
wild, on the restaurant plan, at all hours. Now 
Sidney Lanier tells us how. Hear him: 

At this hour in the morning, in Florida, every- 
body is eating his ante-breakfast oranges with as 
much vigor as if he saw himself growing sud- 
denly wrinkled and flaccid, like the gods and 
goddesses in Wagner's Rheingold, when they 
had, in their agitation, forgotten to eat their 
daily allowance of the golden fruit which grew 
in Freya's garden, and which was the necessary 
condition of their immortal youth. In truth, to 
eat one's orange with some such thought as this 
would not be wholly absurd. 

But the sight of dripping flngers reminds one 
that while there are few pleasanter things than 
the eating 01 an orange, yet it is also in the order 
of nature that difficulty and delight, which are 
essentially birds of a feather— should fly together, 
and there are, therefore, few harder things than 
the eating of an orange dry fingered. The stick- 
ineaa of orange juice seems, somehow, at once one 
of the most unavoidable and most disagreeable 
of all the earthly bads that hang by the goods ; 
and we can never help regretting that neither 
the author of "Problems of Life and Mmd" nor 
the author of "Kocks Ahead" has thought to treat 
the question, "How to eat an orange." Yet it 
can be done with great daintiness if the proper 
appliances are at hand. By appliances I mean a 
lady. It is notorious that women can manage an 
orange with their delicately tactile fingers to a 
marvel. There is a tradition in Jackson- 
ville of one who, with kid gloves on 
her hands, kept the same wholly unspotted 
during the entire process of peeling, dividing 
and eating. However that may be, it is certainly 
an seathetio delight to see ten white fingers deftly 
coaxing apart the juicy orange aeotors. Indeed, 
that is apples of gold in pictures of silver. It 
has been suggested that the reason of this supe- 
rior skill is longer experience ; woman, though 
younger than man, commenced to handle fruit 
sooner. But it is a suggestion that I make a 
point of loudly and ostentatiously scorning ; for, 
as has been said, the solution of the problem of 



86 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



"How to eat an orange," depends on being on 
good terms with woman. 

"First get your orange; and you will at least 
produce an implication of your connoisseuraliip 
m the mind of the dealer, if, in doing so, you 
ask for Indian Iliver oranges, which many per- 
sons hold to be the tropic fruit. Then get your 
sister, or any available womankind — another 
man's sister might do — to peel your orange; 
divide it into sectors, and hand you these, each 
lying on its detached arc of peel as on a small 
salver. The rest, as the old play says, can be 
done without book." * * * 

"It may be all very well for Growly to have 
Mrs. G. peel his orange, leaving him only the 
arduous duty of eating it; but no 'knightly lover' 
would stand by, after gathering hia sweetheart's 
roses, and permit her to peel the breakfast 
oranges, however deftly. Oh, no! if his 'Dearie' 
was a little lale, which she might sometimes be, 
you know, she would find the oranges peeled in 
a way which will admit of her handliog them 
with or without gloves. The 'knightly lover' 
finds a fresh orange, with a thin brown rind, 
carefully cuts the rind without abrading the 
inner skin, cutting deftly around the periphery, 
then taking a teaspoon passes it under the rind, 
then gently turn it wrong side out, as it were, 
now outs the orange diagonally across, passing 
to his audience, who most surely will give him 
en encore. " 

450— Fried Chicken. 

Take young chickens and cut them into joints. 
If wanted to be extremely neat, take only four 
joints of each one, cutting oS the legs at the hip 
joints, getting all the meat that belongs with a 
broad, flat cut that leaves the carcass bare, then 
chop the breast part from the back, and divide 
the breast in two, each piece having the lirat 
wing joint attached. Wash the pieces, wipe dry, 
dredge with salt and pepper, then braad them by 
dipping first in egg and then m cracker meal, 
being careful not to rub off the breading or leave 
a hole in the coat 

Fry in a skillet of hot lard, a few pieces at a 
time, with care not to let the under side burn 
unawares. The frying takes about 10 minutes. 
It makes all the difference between good cooking 
and bad whether the chicken comes out of a fine 
golden brown or black and smoky. 

Pour some good cream sauce in the dish and 
lay the pieces of chicken in it without covering 
them. 



451— Water Cress Salad. 
Cut away the rough stems, pick off the root 
fibers, and wash the cress carefully. Drain, out 
it in inch lengths, season in a bowl with a little 
salt and pepper, and when they are mixed in 
sprinkle with vinegar. Serve in small salad 
dishes individually. 



453— Hominy Cake. 

Use the fine hominy, or grits, as it is called. 
Take a large half-cupful and wash the dust out 
of it — like washing rice — to prevent burning. 
Put it on to boil gently in two oupfula of water, 
with a little salt. Let it cook an hour, and if dry 
in the meantime add half cupful of milk. When 
done measure — 

Two cupf uls of cooked hominy. 

Butter size of an ettg. 

1 teaspoonfnl of sugar. 

1 or 3 eggs. 

X cupful of milk. 

Stir the butter in while the hominy is warm, 
beat the eggs and milk together, mix all; bake in 
a shallow pan. Serve as a vegetable side dish 
like fried mush. 



453— To I>ress Terrapin. 

When there is a question of the quantity re- 
quired for a given number of persons, it may be 
counted about the same as of young chickens. 
Aa they ordinarily run, a terrapin weighs from 
two to four pounds live. There are larger and 
better, but rarely obtainable away from the 
source of supply. The amount of meat in a 
terrapin is not over half the live weight It is 
most serviceable stewed or in soup. Drop the 
terrapin alive into a pot of boiling water. At 
the end of fifteen minutes take it out and take 
off the bottom shell by chipping through the 
thinnest part, where it joins the back shell be- 
tween the openings. This can be done with the 
heavy handle end of a stout knife. Cut close to 
the shell, not to bring any meat away with it 
Pour away the water that will be found inside, 
but save the blood that collects in the deep shell 
afterwards. The gall, about the size of a cherry, 
will be seen near the center, and must be taken 
out without breaking; also take out the single 
fish-bait entrail. Loosen the meat from the back 
shell, and cut through the spine bone that at- 
taches to the shell at a joint above the tail. 
Empty it into a pan. When all are done go over 
them, take off the heads and put them with the 
sheila for soup ; separate the hind and fore feet 
(or fins as some call them), making four pieces ; 
trim off the claws and scrape off the thin outside 
cuticle. It is worth while to take off the rich fat 
that will be found at the shoulder-joints of the 
females, because it boils away while the meat is 
cooking tender, and should be added later. It is 
of a very dark green color, almost black. Pre- 
serve along with it all the eggs, both large and 
small. Keep all the pieces of meat, fat and eggs 
in cold water. Put on the heads, shells and re- 
maining scraps in water enough to more than 
cover, boil slowly for two or three hours, skim- 
ming when it first boils, then strain the liquor or 
stock into a clean saucepan, put the pieces of 
terranin in and boil them one hour. The pieces 
that were like india-rubber at first will begin to 

e tender by that time, but before being finished 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



87 



as stew or soup, or otherwise, ahonld be taken 
up on a dish to cool, and the liquor strained into 
a bowl. 



The terrapin prepared as above directed is at 
the same stage as canned terrapin, and, lilte that, 
it can be seasoned and finished for the table in 
different ways. 

454— Terrapin in Siiell, Maryland Style. 

Take a baking pan large enough to hold as 
many terrapins as wanted, half fill it with dry 
gravel or sand, and make it hot in the oven, Kill 
or stun the terrapins, wash oS and bed them 
back downward in the pan of gravel. Bake 
about an hour. Take hold with a towel, pry off 
the belly shell, remove the gall oag and entrail 
from the inside, and loosen the meat from the 
shell without taking it out Work a lump of soft 
butter with a little flour, pepper, salt and 
lemon juice, drop a spoonful in each terrapin 
and replace them in the oven for the seasonings 
to cook. Serve in shell on a folded napkin. 



455— Stewed Terrapin, 

The meat of two terrapins — about 3 pints. 

The liquor or stock — about 3 pints. 

Butter size of an egg. 

1 large tablespoonful of flour. 

Herb and spice seasonings. 

3^ cup of sherry or madeira. 

The terrapin and the liquor it was boiled in 
being ready add a little water to the latter and set 
it on to boil with a teaspoonf ul of bruised pepper 
corns, a sprig of green thyme, three or four of 
parsley, two cloves, half blade of mace, and tea- 
spoonful of onion. Stir the butter and flour to- 
gether in a small saucepan over the fire until it 
is yellow or light brown, add it to the boiling 
stock, and also a teaspoonful of salt. When 
boiled sufliciently with the thickening in it, 
stram it into a clean saucepan — that is the sauce. 
Take the pieces of cooted terrapin and chop olf 
all the projecting points of bones and otherwise 
trim the joints smooth and shapely, then put 
them into the sauce to simmer at the side of the 
range; add the wine and the fat pieces, if any 
saved, also the eggs, and strew them over the 
surface of the stew when served. 



456- Corn Meal Muffins. 

These can be made with yeast, but the process 
is longer. Buttermilk and soda will do instead 
of the sweet milk and powder named below, and 
either way the muffins take no longer to make 
than corn bread. 

1 heaping cupful of white corn meal 

Butter or lard, size of an egg. 

1 cupful of boiling water. 

IJ^ cupfuls of cold milk. 

1 level cupful of flour. 

2 yolks or 1 egg. 

1 teaspoonful ot baking powder. 



Same of salt. 

Boil the butter or lard and cup of water to- 
gether and pour them into the meal to scald it 
all. Add salt. Mix in the cold milk and fiour 
and powder. Beat up well with a bunch of wire 
or wire egg-whisk. Bake in greased muffin 
rings or in deep gem pans. If the former, make 
the baking pan and rings both hot before pour- 
ing in the batter, then it wili not run under ; for 
the mixture has to be quite thin to make the 
muffins the very best. 



457— Marmalade of Canned .^ijricots. 

2 cupfuls of sugar to 3 cupfuls of apricot 
pulp. 

Drain the fruit from the syrup by pouring all 
into a colander set in a sauce-pan. Press the 
fruit through the colander into another vessel 
and measure it. Put as much sugar by measure 
into the apricot juice in the sauce-pan and boil 
them gently for half an hour, skimming once; 
then put in the mashed apricot and simmer 
down thick. 

458— Omelet Saufflee. 

A soufHee is a puff, and an omelet so called is 
one whipped very light in the raw state, cooked 
carefully to preserve its lightness and should be 
eaten as soon as done. 

3 eggs. 

1 teaspoonful of powdered sugar. 

1 teaspoonful of milk. 

Clear butter to fry in. 

Yolks of eggs beat up lighter and better with 
a few drops of liquid added. Beat the yolks in 
a small bowl aud the sugar and few drops of 
milk with them until thick and light Whip the 
whites very stiff and stir them into the yolks 
Put a spoonful of the clear part of melted butter 
into a small frying-pan, put in the omelet and 
spread it out level, and if convenient cook it in 
the oven, set on the bottom. This kind of 
omelet is very apt to burn, through the butter 
and sugar, and needs but little heat. It will 
bear turning over with a broad knife if it has to 
be cooked over the fire. Dredge powdered 
sugar over the top before taking from the fire. 
Slide on to a hot dish. 



MENU NO. XLII.— LUNCHEON. 



459 - Cream of Terrapin Soup. 

Selected meat of 3 terrapins. 
3 quarts of terrapin stock. 
1 quart of cream, 



Canned terrapin can be used to cut up into a 
rich cream soup, but at least an equal portion 
should be taken to make the stock. 

When the terrapins have been prepared from 
the first, as directed at No. 453, there will be 
2 or 3 pints of strong stock already, and another 
quart should be made by boiling the bones, after 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



the meat has been cat off, until all the glutinous 
parts are dissolved, which may take two hours' 
slow cooking, starting with 2 quarts of water. 
Add seasonings, as before, of black pepper- 
corns (bruised), parsley or sliced parsley root, a 
scrap of mace and teaspoonful of onion. 

Cut the meat of the terrapin, cold, into neat 
squares, size of green peas. Strain all the terra- 
pin stock through a fine strainer into a clean 
saucepan, throw in the meat and let boil up. 
Boil the cream separately, and while it is heat- 
ing rub a tableapoonful of flour and butter, size 
of an egg, together in a saucepan and pour the 
cream to it, then through a strainer add it to the 
soup just before serving. Add salt. The cream 
will be very liable to curdle in the soup if they 
are allowed to boil together. 



460— Truffled Oysters. 

4 dozen of the largest oysters. 
1 small can of truffles. 

6 ounces of breast of chicken, cooked. 
3 ounces of fat salt pork, raw. 
Bed or pickled pepper. 

5 eggs, flour, toast. 

Mince and then pound to a paste the chicken 
and salt pork, and add a quarter pod of re- 
pepper very finely minced. Cut the truffles to 
the size of peas and mix them in. Lay the oys- 
ters out on a napkin, insert a penknife at the 
edge and split each oyster up and down inside 
without making the opening very large, then 
push in a small teaspoonful of the truffle force- 
meat 

As the oysters are stuffed lay them in flour 
and coat well with it, then dip them in beaten 
egg in a plate. Drop a few at a time into hot 
lard or oil and fry for three or four minutes. 
The lard should be deep enough to immerse 
them and hot enough to hiss sharply but not 
smoking. When the oysters are of a golden 
brown take them up and drain on blank paper in 
a hot place. Dust with fine salt. 

Cut diamond shaped slices of thin dry toast 
and serve four oysters laid diagonally on each 
slice. 



461— Stuffed Oysters— Broiled. 

Grate the yolks of hard boiled eggs — 3 or 4 for 
every dozen of the largest oysters — mince half 
as much fat salt pork or bacon and mix in, also 
black pepper and chopped parsley. Add a raw 
yolk to make a paste of it Split the oysters and 
stuff them according to the preceding directions. 
Dip them into bread crumbs very finely minced 
and sifted through a colander, then into butter 
melted on a plate, then into the bread crumbs 
again and broil them over a clear fire. 



463-Potted Ham. 

Take the remainder of a ham when the hand- 
somest slices have been out away ; trim off all 



the meat, rejecting whatever of the outside is 
dark colored or strong, and apportion one-third 
fat to two-thirds lean. Season with white pep- 
per or cayenne. Mince the meat fine, the lean 
first, and then pound it to a paste and mix both 
lean and fat Rub it through a seive with the 
back of a wooden spoon. Press it into small 
jars, and pour melted butter on top to exclude 
the air. This is for present use. If to be kept 
some time make the potted ham hot by baking 
in a vessel set in another containing boiling wa- 
ter before putting into jars, and stir up as it 
cools. 

463— Sandwich Rollb 

4 cupfuls of light bread dough. 

1 cupful of butter. 

Take the dough from the bread. If set with 
yeast over night it will be ready for this purpose 
at any time in the morning. Spread it out on the 
table with the knuckles and then roll thin with 
the rolling-pin. Spread the butter all over the 
sheet, fold it up and roll out again ; fold in three 
as before and let it stand a few minutes in a 
warm place to lose its elasticity. After that the 
dough can be rolled and folded twice more. 
Give it another short interval then roll out, out 
out biscuits, place them in pans not touching, 
brush over the tops with a little lard and hoc 
water in a cup. Let rise an hour and bake. 
These are light rolls that will pull apart in flakes. 



464^Claret Cup. 

1 bottle of claret. 

1 bottle of soda water. 

}{ cupful of sherry. 

Peel of lemon. 

}{ pound of sugar. 

3 or 3 slices of cucumber or a sprig of borage 
or verbena. 

Ice. 

Either grate the lemon rind or pare extremely 
thin and rub it and the sugar and a few spoon- 
fuls of water together in a bowL Add the 
liquors and when the sugar is dissolved strain, 
add ice and the herbs or cucumber slices. 



465-Truffled Chicken. 

1 fat pullet, and the breasts of 3 more. 
1 large can of truffles. 
3»^ pound of fat salt pork. 



Bone the fowl according to directions at No. 
306, and cut off the fillets or white meat of the 
other two and lay them a!l side by side on the 
table. Cut the fat pork in thin strips, score 
gashes in thick parts of the chicken and lay the 
strips in, cut the truffles and dispose the pieces 
evenly where they will show the black spots in 
the white meat when the chicken is sliced. 
Dredge well with salt and white pepper and a 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



89 



little nutmeg and powdered thyme. Then lay the 
chiclcen breasts in the thin places of the fowl, 
bring the two sides together and sew up the 
fowl mto nearly its original shape. Do it up in a 
cloth, tie and pin it, and boil it two hours in salted 
broth. Press it while cooliLg. Take off the 
cloth when cold, draw out the thread it is sewed 
with. Serve the fowl either incased in aspic 
jelly, or coated with melted butter, or slice it and 
display the slices in a dish. 



466 -Pickled Maxtsoes. 

These are small, green melons, hollowed out, 
filled with other pickling vegetables and all 
pickled together. 

Take the youug musk-melons, the last on the 
vmes, out off one end, scoop out the inside, tie 
on the piece and put them into a keg of strong 
brine, the same way that cucumbers are i;ept, 
for a day or two, or until wanted. Pi-epare in 
like manner the other articles named in these 
proportions : To every 

2 dozen melon mangoes 

1 pint of small pickling onions. 

1 pint of smallest young cucumbers, 

1 pint of smallest green peppers. 

1 pint of green string beans. 

J^ pint of shred horseradish. . 

1 tablespoonful smallest red peppers. 

3 ounces of mustard seed. 

1 ounce each of cloves, allspice and whole 
black pepper. 

Binse the small vegetables from the brine, set 
them over the fire in cold water in separate 
vegetables, and as soon as they begin to boil take 
them off and drain dry. 

Rinse the melons in fresh water and wipe them 
dry, then fill them, put into them besides the 
small vegetables a little horseradish and 
mustard seed. Tie on the end pieces, place the 
mangoes thus finished in a liree gallon jar. 
Boil SIX quarts of good vinegar with the pepper 
and spices in it, pour over the mangoes, cover 
and let stand twenty-four hours. Drain off, 
boil the vinegar again and pour it over, and 
then once or twice more. Keep covered in a 
cool place. 

467— Chocolate Layer Cake* 

Is made of layers of delicate cake, very white 
and fine grained, with chocolate icing spread 
between. The recipes for both are found below. 



468— Delicate Cake. 

14 ounces granulated sugar — 2 cupfuls. 

12 ounces butter — 3 cupfuls, small. 

13 ounces of white of eggs — 14 whites. 

1 pound of starch and flour mixed — 2 cupfuls 
of each. 
Juice (if a lemon, or teaspoonful cream tartar. 



3^ cupful of milk. 

Flavoring extract to fancy. 

4 tablespoonfuls of brandy (optional). 

Soften the butter and rub it and the sugar 
together to a cream, add the white of eggs 
a little at a time in the same way that eggs 
are added in making pound cake, without pre- 
vious beating, then add the mixed starch and 
flour and beat most thorougnly. Put in then the 
letnon juice or other acid, the flavorings and 
milk and beat again, the more the better for 
whiteness and fine texture. Bake either in a 
mold or on jelly cako pans. 



The use of baking-powder has become so 
nearly universal the writer finds that the 
great majority of people are unaware 
thac the beat cakes can rise and 
be light and far better without it or any other 
raising than the butter or eggs that is in them. 
In the following very fine white cake the cream 
tartar and soda may seem to be the same thing 
as using baking powder, but in reaUty they have 
to be kept apart and managed as directed, or the 
cake will not be the deUcate cake it is intended 
to be. 



469-Fine White Cake. 

18 ounces granulated sugar — 2J^ cups. 

8 ounces white butter — 1 large cup. 

}^ pint of milk — 1 large cup. 

5 ounces of corn starch — 1 rounded cup. 

12 ounces of fiour — 3 rounded cuns. 

3 large teaspoonfuls cream tartar. 

1 small teaspoonful of soda. 

12 whites of eggs. 

Vanilla extract to flavor. 

Sift the cream tartar in the flour three or four 
times over. 

Mix the starch in a small bowl with the cup of 
milk. 

Get the whites of eggs ready in a tin pail or 
large whipping bowl. 

Dissolve the soda in two spoonfuls of milk in 
a cup. 

Put the sugar and butler together in the 
mixing pan, warm them slightly and stir till 
creamy and add the dissolved soda. Stir in the 
corn starch and milk. Whip the whites to a firm 
froth and mix them and the prepared flour in a 
portion of each alternately. Flavor. Bake as 
soon as mixed; either in layers for chocolate 
cake or in a mold. If the latter, frost over when 
cold. 



470— Chocolate Boiled Icios— Best. 

For spreading between layers of cake and for 
covering the top, or for dipping cream puffs in 
to coat them. 

1 pound of granulated sugar— 3 cupfuls. 

3^ teaoupful of water. 

3 ounces of grated chocolate — the common sort 
— a small cupful. 



90 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



4 whole egga. 

Tanilla flavoring extract. 

Boil tlie Bugar and water together in a deep 
saucepan for five minutes, add the chocoelate. 

When a drop in cold water sets hard almost as 
candy, stir in the eggs rapidly, beating all the 
while. Let coo!( about five minutes more with 
constant stirring. Flavor with vanilla. Beat 
more or less while it is cooling. Spread or pour 
it over sheets of cake. It is called best because 
it cuts well, and does not crack and break off the 
cakes. 

471— Chocolate Boiled Icine Without Ebss. 

1 pound of sugar — 3 cupfuls. 

14 teacupful of water. 

4 ounces of common chocolate, graded — a cup- 
ful. 

Boil all together almost to candy point, flavor 
with vanilla when navtly cooled, beat a short 
time, spread over the cake. 

473 — Chocolate Icint; Not Boiled, 

1 pound of sugar — SJ cups — either granulated 
or powdered will do. 

6 whites of eggs. 

4 ounces of grated common chocolate — a cup- 
ful. 

3 teaspoonf ula of vanilla extract. 

Put the sugar and white of eggs together into 
a bowl and beat rapidly with a wooden spoon or 
paddle in a cool place for about tea minutes, or 
until you have good white frosting. Set the 
grated chocolate on the side of tlie stove to 
melt merely by the heat, without anything added 
to it Pour it to the frosting in the bowl, add 
flavor, beat up and use to cover cakes or spread 
between layers. 

473— Frosted Oranges. 

Make plain white icing (see former portion of 
preceding recipe), and use it to dip orange 
slices in just when it has become too thick with 
beating not to run off, and yet thin enough to 
settle to smoothness. Or, if so good that it has 
already become too firm, thin it by adding the 
white of another egg or part of one. 

Prepare the oranges by peeling and separating 
by the natural divisions, without breaking the 
covering or getting the pieces wet Have a long 
splinter or thin skewer ready for each one, and 
fill a large bowl with sugar or salt and stick 
them in. Stick the point of a skewer into the 
edge of the oran'^e section, dip into the frosting, 
push the other end of the skewer into the bowl 
of salt, and let the pieces hang over the edge of 
the bowl m a warm place to dry. 



MENU NO. XLIII.— DINNER. 



474— Veeetible Soup. 

S quarts of soup stock — S or 10 cups. 
3 cuptuls of mixed vegetables. 



Take for the stock the liquor in which almost 



any kind of meat has been boiled — beef shank, 
mutton, heart, tongue, fowl, rabbit, etc., and 
corned beef liquor does very welL The richer 
the stock can be, of course, the better it is. 
Strain it into the soup pot. Skim off most 
of the fat Almost every kind of vegetable can 
be used. Take a piece of each and cut all into 
dice shapes, or, if to be very nice, cut vegetables 
in slices and stamp out little patterns with a tin 
cutter or the point of a tin funnel There should 
be turnips white and yellow, carrot, pumpkin, 
celery, string beans, green peas, onions, summer 
squash, cauliflower. If vegetables are scarce, a 
little parsnip and cabbage and potatoes can be 
used, but the latter put in late so as not to boil 
away. 

Boil the hard vegetables, such as carrots, 
turnips, onions, string beans and celery, together 
in a little saucepan first; then pour the 
water away and put the vegetables in the 
boiling stock, and add the easy-cooking kinds, 
such as cauliflower, asparagus heads and peas — 
whatever may be on hand At last add a piece 
of red tomato, out small, salt and pepper to 
taste and a tablespoonful of corn starch mixed 
in a cup with water. 



475-Soft-Shell Crabs, Boiled. 

Every part of a soft-shell crab is eatable, 
shell, claws and all, except the sand pouch on 
the under side, but the small claws should be 
taken off when the crabs are to be cooked by 
boiling. 

Drop the crabs into boiling water already well 
salted, cook about fifteen minutes, drain, and 
serve with a sauce at the side. 

Mayonaise sauce, cold, tomato catsup, hot 
cream sauce, butter sauce or parsley sauce are 
suitable kinds. 



476— Boiled Bacon, and Cabbage. 

Cut summer cabbage in quarters and cut out 
moat of the thick stem part. Let it lie in a pan 
of cold water until wanted to cook. Put on a 
saucepan plenty large enough with water and 
salt and a vei'y Kttle baking soda in it — about the 
size of a bean for two cabbages — when it boils 
put in the cabbage and let it cook half an hour. 



Shave the smoky outside off a pound of baoon 
and boil the bacon in a saucepan by itself for 
half hour. Then drain off both cabbage and 
bacon and put them both together in one pot, pour 
in boiling water just to cover, put on a good- 
fitting lid and let them slowly cook together half 
hour longer. 

The quarters of cabbage, nice and green ap- 
pearing, should be drained in the spoon as they 
are taken up without destroying their shape, and 
placed in the dish with the bacon sliced on top. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



91 



477— larded rillet ot Bt nf. 

This 13 rothing if not neat, nuiform, precise 
and workmanlike in appearance. There must 
be a pound of fat bacon for larding, cold and 
firm, so that it can bo out aright Cut the slices 
a quarter inch thick, cut these in lengths of 1}'^ 
inches and then into strips all precisely alike 
and as thick as a common pencil. 

Procure the iillet or tenderloin of beef with 
the fat on it, that is ivith the coating of suet 
that ooTers the upper side of it, and 
shave that down until the cover- 
ing of fat is about as thick as a beefsteak all 
over it Then raise the edge of the fat at one 
side, skinning the fillet, so to apeak, and lay the 
sheet of fat over on the other side without cut 
ting it off. This is to have tln< sheet of fat 
attached ready to cover over the fillet again 
after it is larded with the strips of bacon. Draw 
the point of a sharp kuife across and across the 
skin inside the fat, to score it so that it will not 
draw up in cooking. Trim off the thin end of 
the fillet and round oft tho thick end. Com- 
mence at the thick end with the larding. 
Insert a piece of bacon in the end 
of the larding needle (see No. 430) and draw 
it through the top parts of the meat pinched up 
with the left thumb and finger for the purpose, 
one end of the strip of bacon so inserted wiil be 
left leaning backward, the other forward, on the 
surface. Insert 6 or more of these strips m a 
row across. Begin the next row so that tho 
strips will come alternately between those of the 
first, and the exposed ends will cross the others, 
and so continue, with the regularity of stitching 
cloth, to the other end. Cover the larded fillet 
with the sheet of fat. Make a long and narrow 
baking pan hot in the oven, with a tablespoonf ul 
of salt and a cup of drippings in it. and enough 
water to keep the bottom from burning. Put in 
also a slice of turnip, carrot and onion, and a 
piece of celery. Have the oven hot, put in the 
fillet, and roast it with the fat, covering it half 
an hour ; then take off the fat, baste the fillet 
with the contents of the pan, and let cook fifteen 
minutes longer, by which time the surface of 
the meat should he brown, and bacon strips 
brown too, witnout being burnt at the ends. 

Filiets of beet vary in weight and thickness, 
and the tinw above given is only a guide to the 
average. Unless specially ordered otherwise, 
the thick part of the fillet should cut slightly 
rare in the middle, while the thinner portion is 
well done. 

In carving, the fillet should be sliced across 
vertically because it is a mass of strings of meat 
lying Hide by side, and if out slantingly the slices 
begin to be stringy and coarse. A fillet that is 
to be braised along with herbs, spices, ve;:o- 
tables, wine, etc., is larded with strips of bacon 
or fat pork that pass clear through from one 
side to the oth^r diagonally, so that the slices 



are cut across when done and show the larding 
all through the meat. 



478— Brown Gravr. 

Before serving the fillet, or any roast meat, let 
the gravy in the pan dry down until the urease 
can be poured off clear, while the glaze remains 
adhering to the pan; pour in water to dissolve it, 
and when it has boiled add a trifle of brown 
fioiir thickening if it seems to need it; strain 
through a fine strainer; serve some in the dish 
with the fillet, the rest in a sauceboat. 



479-Brown Flom- fur Thickening-. 

While butter and flour mixed in equal parts 
and baked brown makes the best tliiekening for 
gravies, plain browned flour does nearly as well 
aud is more desirable when the butter is not very 
good. Put some sifted flour dry into a frying- 
pan and hake deep brown in the oven. Use it 
at the rate of a tahlespoonful to a cupful of 
liquid. Wet with water the same as raw flour, 
before stirring it in. It may be kept in a can 
always ready. 



480— Slufled lomatoes 

or 8 large tomatoes. 

1 cupful of fine bread crumbs. 

1 rounded tahlespoonful of minced onion. 

1 heaping tahlespoonful minced fat bacon, or 
butter in equal amount. 

S.ight grating of nutmeg. 

Cayenne and salt. 

Do not peel the tomatoes, and take a slice off 
the rou^h stem side and scoop out the inside 
with a teaspoon into colander, so that the juice 
may partly drain away. Cat a thin slice or two 
of bread ana mince it across to make a cupful. 
Mix the crumbs aud tomato pulp together, ba- 
con, onion, very little salt, if any, pepper, and 
touch of nutmeg or mace. 

Fill the tomatoes with the mixture rounded up 
on top, bake in small pan well buttered, with a 
greased sheet of paper over, one-half hour. 
Then moisten over the tops with the back of a 
spoon dipped in butter, dredge fine bread 
crumbs on top and bake again without cover 
until they are well browned. 



481— Chicken CroqUBlics. 

3 cupfuls of cut chicken meat — 8 ounces. 

1 small cupful of bread panada — 4 ounces. 

Butter size of an egg. 

1 egg. 

1 tahlespoonful of chopped parsley.. 

Lemnn juice, nntmes, salt, pepper. 

Cracker meal and milk fur breading. 

Bread panada is stale bread steeped a few 



92 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



minutes in cold water and then wrung dry in a 
cloth. One roll will be enougii for this recipe. 

Cut the chiciien meat in thin a!rip3 and then 
aorosB, making very small dice-shapes — a way 
that is always better than chopping it 

Mix the meat, panada, cold butter, egg an'l 
parsley by rubbing together with a spoon, add 
a squeeze of lemon and half a teaspoonf ul of 
mixed salt and pepper and slignt grating of 
nutmeg. 

This makes seven or eight croquettes in pear 
shape or round or flattened. 

To bread them, mix flonr and cracker meal in 
equal parts together dry. Koll the croquettes in 
milk, then in the mixture, then in milk and in 
tlie mixture again, coating them well without 
rubbing, and drop them into a deep saucepan of 
hot lard. Let them be well done through and 
brown. 

See, also, No. 384. By these two recipes cro- 
quettes of all kinds of meat can be made. 



483— Sauce for CrocjURttes. 

}4 cupful of brown meat gravy. 
J^l cupful of fresh butter 
14 teaspoonful of white pepper. 
Salt, if not in the gravy. 

Boil all together; pour a spoonful over the 
croquette when served. 



483— Terrapin Vol-an-Veiit. 

2 oupfuls of cut terrapin moat. 

1 cupful of terrapin stock. 
y{ cupful of sherry. 

2 cloves and small scrap of mace and a sprig 
or two of parsley or savory. 

1 tablespoonf ul of butter. 

1 tablespoonful of browned flour. 

Having the terrapin meat already prepared 
and cold on a dish, as directed in the latter part 
of No. 453, and the liquor it was boiled in like- 
wise, set the specified amount of the liquor or 
stock on to boil, with the seasonings in it. Mix 
the butter and browned flour together and 
thicken the liquor with them, add the wine, 
strain into another saucepan, put in the cut 
terrapin, add a little salt and cayenne and let 
simmer a short time at the back of the range. 

Bake six or eight vol-au-vent cases of puff 
paste (see No. 256) an<l fill them with the pre- 
pared terrapin. 



484— Stewed Cucuniber.-i, 

Pare throe or four young and good cucumbers, 
and cut them ia thick slices, boil these in water, 
with a little salt and vinegar in it — the same as 
for egg-plant— for about fiftesn minutes, then 
pour away the water. Mako a cupful of cream 
sauce in another saucepan, and, when ready. 



beat in the yolks of two eggs and a tablespoonful 
of vinegar. Pour this yellow sauce (HoUandaise) 
over the slices of cucumber, after they have been 
placed neatly in their dish. 



485— Angelica Punch. 

2 cupfuls of California angelica wine. 

3 cupfuls of hot water — a pint. 
1 cupful of sugar — J^ pound. 

1 cupful of stemmed raisins — y{ pound. 

1 lemon. 

2 whites of eggs and 2 tablespoonfula of pow- 
dered sugar to beat in. 

Chop the raisins, grate half the rind of the 
lemon, squeeze in all of the juice, pour the hot 
water to them, add the sugar, and stir until it is 
all dissolved. Strain the flavored syrup thus 
obtained into a freezer, and rub the moat of the 
raisin pulp through as well. Add the wme and 
freeze. 'When nearly frozen whip the two 
whites and the powdered sugar together till 
thick, add them to the punch and finish freezing. 
It is like cream. Serve in stem glasses. 



486— Koast Prairie Cliickeiis. 

Choose small prairie chickens when choice is 
given, for the large birds are likeliest to prove 
tough and can be cooked in stews and pies instead 
of roasted. The breast is the principal part. Lard 
it with thm strins of fat bacon, in rows as di- 
rected at No. 477. Eoast as directed for larded 
fillet of beef, with a greased sheet of pa- 
per ^on top, to protect the larding, and let re- 
main in the oven about 40 minutes. 

Prepare a border of water-cress for the dish 
by picking it over, cutting away the coarser 
stalks and shaking it free from water, and dish 
the prairie chickens in the midst. 



487— Fine Hominy PudJiu^. 

2 large cupfuls of cooked fine hominy — hom ■ 
iny grits or samp. 

Butter size of an egg — 1)^ ounces. 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar — 2 ounofis. 

2 yolks or 1 egg. 

1 small cupful of milk. 

The hominy grits already cooked, should be 
dry and firm, otherwise use less milk or none. 
Mix all the ingredients together, the butter soft- 
ened first, and bake in a buttered pudding pan 
about fifteen minutes. It takes a quart pan to 
baliO it in. Use yolUs of eggs if a rich pudding 
is wanted. Serve with a sauce. If no hominy 
ready put on a large half cupful in full cup of wa- 
ter, and when it lias boiled nearly dry add a 
small cup of mill; and pinch of salt; never stir 
it, but let cook with a lid on one half hour 
longer, at the back of the range. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



93 



4gS-Caiacoa Sauce. 

1 oupfnl of water 

yi cupful of sugar 

1 rounded tablespoonful of corn starch 

A slice of lemou 

1-^ cupful of curacoa. 

Boil the water, mix starch and sugar together 
dry and stir them in and a slice or two of lemon. 
Let simmer until it becomes quite clear. Then 
add the curacoa. The sauce changes to rose 
color after a few minutes. Curacoa is a cordial 
made of orange peel, cloves and spirits of wine. 



4S9— Sliced Banana Pie. 

Lay a crust of puff paste in the pie pan, rolling 
the paste so that the middle of the crust will be 
much thinner than the edge. This is done by 
doubling the paste over before putting it on the 
pan and rolling the part that will be the middle 
with the end of the rolling pin, having flour 
enough about the paste to prevent^ sticking, then 
opening it and pressing it in the plate ail around. 
Peel 3 or 4 bananas, cut them lengthwise 
in 2 or 3 and lay the slices in the pie 
3 layers deep, cover moderately with sugar, 
drop a blade of mace broken in pieces 
and some little lumps of fresh butter all over 
the banana slices, pour in 4 tablespoonfuls of 
wine and bake in a moderate oven 30 minutes. 
No top crust. 



490— Banana C euni Pie. 

1 large cupful of mashed banana. 

8 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 

Butter, size of ar egg. 

3 eggs. 

1^ cupful of milk. 

X cupful of angelica or sherry 

Separate the eggs and keep the whites to whip. 
Soften the butter, mix all and stir weU. Add 
the whipped whites just before the pies are to be 
baked. Bake without top crust. It makes 2 
pies. They are apt to bake too quickly on top 
and should be guarded with something on the 
top shelf of the stove. 



MENU NO. XLIV— DINNER. 



491 - Split Fea Soup. 

3}^ quarts of soup stock. 

A soup bunch of vegetables. 

A cupful of split peas. 

The stock may be the liquor in which any kind 
of meat has been boiled, and should have a 
flavoring of salt meat, such as a cupful of liquor 
from the corned beef boiler or a small ham bone 

Soak the peas some time before cooking, if 
convenient. Drain them and boil then in the 
soup about an hour. While boiUng add a small 
quantity of chopped vegetables, mostly onions 



and celery. The peas should partly boil away 
and thicken the soup, while some of them still 
remain distinct; when this is not satisfactorily 
accomplished, add a spoonful of flour thicken- 
ing. Season with salt and pepper, and add a 
small lump of butter at last 

Puree of pea soup can be made as directed 
for puree of beans. It is an English custom to 
dry mint and crumble it over the top of pea 
soup. 



493- Boilea Kabbic and Salt Fork. 

Cut the rabbit in 6 pieces, first across the hip 
joints, and separating the legs, then the loms 
make 2 cuts, and at last divide the shoulders, 
throving away the head and the thin edge of 
the ribs. Steep in cold water to draw the blood 
and wash carefully. Boil in salted water until 
tender, and boil J-^ pound of salt or pioliled pork 
with it. Large rabbits usually have to be boiled 
2 hours before they are fit to eat ; young ones 
may cook in the same time as chickens. 

When done place the pieces iu natural order 
in a dish, slice the pork and lay it on top, and 
pour parsley sauce over all. 



493-Koast Suckius Pie. 

The pig will be ready trussed when it comes 
from the butcher's, with the toes inserted in slits 
cut in the skin. Lay it on its back and drive the 
point of a sharp knife down through the bone of 
the back, dividing it convenient for carving, and 
also detach the ribs along one side, and loosen 
the inner joints of the hipa and legs, which can 
be done without spoiling the outside appearance 
of the pig. Wash, and wipe it dry, stuff with 
the bread dressing containing sage and onions, 
No. 30, and sew up with twine. Koast about two 
hours, covered with a sheet of greased paper for 
part of the time, and baste with butter to get a 
fine transparent brown color on the skin at last 
Make gravy in the pan to pour around the pig in 
the dish. Serve apple sauce separately in a 
sauce dish. It is a time-honored custom to in- 
sert a small apple in the mouth of the pig be- 
fore sending it to table. 



494— Boiled Kale or Seakale. 

Wash free from grit, tie it in bunches, trim off 
the root end and boil it in salted water, like win- 
ter spinnach, about twenty minutes. Drain in a 
colander. Pour a spoonful of butter sauce over 
each bunch In the dish. 



495— Tapioca Pudding. 

3 ounces of tapioca — large 3^ cupful. 
IJ^ pints of milk — 3 cups, small 
3 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
1 ounce of butter— small egg size. 



94 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



4 yollis or 3 whole eggs. 

YaniUa extract or grated lemon rind for flavor 

Yolka of egsa make the richest puddings, the 
■wliitea are only like so much corn starch added, 
unless in articles that require them whipped up, 
when they add ligbtness. 

The pearl tapioca, in round grains, is 
the best to work with. The other, large 
and rough, cannot well be measured, bat 
should be weighed. Crush it with the 
rolling-pin, and sift away the dust. Soak 
it in half the milk about two hours in a 
warm place, but not hot, lest it cake together too 
much. Boil the rest of the milk with the sugar 
in it — which prevents burning— put in the soaked 
tapioca and simmer }< hour. Add the butter, 
beaten yolks and flavor. Bake about 30 minutes. 
Serve with any of the pudding sauces. 



family pudding dishes consist of a tin pan or 
a graniteware pan, holding about a quart, for 
baking in, with another pan or dish, plated, to 
set the baking pan m, and a plated ring that fits 
and covers the edge of both, thus hiding the 
baking pan itself from sight when set on the 
table whole. In the bast hotels the puddings are 
baked in pint bowls and served entire, one to 
each person. 



496-Plaxn Apple Pie. 

For the crust: 

1 cupful of lard — }4 pound. 

3 oupfuls of flour, large— 1 pound. 

Eub the lard and flour together dry with the 
hands until they are evenly mixed all through, 
then pour cold water in the middle, add a little 
salt, and stir up with two fingers, drawing in the 
flour gradually. Spread some of the flour on 
the table and pat the paste into a smooth mass 
in. it; roll out the paste once, fold it up like 
doublmgi-up a napkin, and it is ready for use. 

Cover a pia pan»with a layer of the paste rolled 
thin. Peel S good apples, such as will cook 
easily, slice Vnem off the cores into the pie, cover 
with another crust, out off the paste at the edges 
by pressiug with both hands against the jjie pan 
and turning it around at the same time. Bake in 
a slack oven until the apples are done, from 15 
to 30 minutes. Some people grate nutmeg or 
add cinnamon to the apples, and dredge a little 
flour over them before putting on the top crust 



497— Rice Cup Custard. 

The right Droportiou of rice, or tapioca, or sago 
to mix in a boiled custard for a cold cup custard 
of this sort is 3 ounces to each quart of milk — i 
ounces to a quart makes a pudding. 



3 cupfuls of milk— 1}^ pints. 

3 tablespoonfuls of raw rice- IJ^ ounces. 

5 tablespoonfuls of sugar— 5 ounces. 

3 eggs (4 yolks betten) 

y{ cupful of cream to whip. 

Flavoring extract, or s&ak cinnamon. 

Boil the milk with the sugar in it, wash the 
rioe aud throw it in and let simmer slowly until 
the rioe is cooked tenier — about J^hour or more. 
Beat the eggs, pour a little of the rice-milk to 
them, add them to the milk on the Sre, stir, and 
watch till ii begins to boil up in the middle 
again, when instantly take it off and pour it into 
annther vessel to stop the cooking lest the eggs 
curdle in it 

Make the r:oe custard ice cold and flavor it. 
Whip the half cupful of cream and mix It in just 
before serving. Serve in custard cups. 



MENU NO. XLV.— SUPPER. 



498— Old-Fasliioned Family Beefsteak. 

Some people manage very well to broil meat 
by taking off a stove lid and placing the grid- 
iron or wire broiler over the hole. With a little 
forethought to let the fire burn down clear in 
time it does very well. The damper should bo 
turned so as to malie a strong draft and draw 
the smoke and flame up the chimney, especially 
when it is aooaliire. Some of the best hotels 
have ranges with ilarge openings in the top for 
the very same purpose, but used especially for 
toasting bread. 

The better way is to put a layer of small 
broken charcoal in the ash-pan and some live 
coals on top, and cover all exospt an opening in 
front with an inverted baking-pan, so that the 
draft to the flre must pass over the charcoal un- 
der the pan. 

Take the steak as bought of the butcher and 
notch the edges to prevent drawing up in cook- 
ing, and beat it out more or less with mallet or 
cleaver, lay it on the gridiron and place it over 
the glowing coals. Sprinkle coarse salt on the 
fire if the flame is troublesome; the salt puts it 
out and makes the fire clear. 

Prepare the gravy while the steak is broiling. 
Put a quarter pound of butter into a pan with a 
teaspoonful of black pepper, same of salt, and % 
cupful of water. When the steak is sufficiently 
done on both sides put it into the pan with the 
butter, etc., and press it and turn it over to 
thoroughly season it. Set pan and steak over 
the fire a minute, and the gravy will presently 
be found to be as thick as cream. Serve whole 
on a large, hot dish, with the gravy poured 
over. 

499-Baked Sams. 

These are large, yellow sweet potatoes, some- 
I what course, but mealy and good, that grow to 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



95 



an enormona size in the far Soutli. Cut or cliop 
them into the aize of ordioary potatoes and bake 
in the same way with the skins on, about an 
hour. 



600— Shrimp Toast. 

1 cupful of picked shrimps or canned shrimps 
or prawns. 

3^ cupful of fresh butter. 

3 or 4 slices of thin toast. 

Pound a quarter of the shrimps to a paste. 
A porcelain potato maaher and a round-bot- 
tomed saucepan does well for the purpose if you 
have no mortar and pestle. Mi.K the paste with 
half the butter and spread the slices of toast 
with it. Warm the rest of the butter in a fry- 
ing-pan and the shrimps in it, and pile them on 
the toast in a dish. The toast should be cut to a 
neat shape, without rough edges. 



501— German Apple Cake. 

2 cupfuls of light bread dough— 1 pound. 

2 tablespoonf uls of sugar. 
Butter or lard size of an egg. 

3 or 3 apples. 

Sugar and cinnamon to dredge. 

Take the piece of light dough — either from the 
bread pan, or procured from the baker, or started 
with yeast for the purpose — at noon and work in 
the sugar and butter slightly warm. Knead it on 
the table with flour sufScient to make it soft 
dough again. Set it away to rise until 4 o'clock. 
Enead it then on the table, spreading it out with 
the knuckles, folding over and repeating the 
process for several minutes. This malcea all 
kinds of raised dough good. 

Let it stand a few minutes to lose its elastic 
tendency to draw back oat of shape, then roll it 
out and cover a baking pan with it. Pare 
and cut the apples in slices, stick them into the 
sheet of dough and Qredge all over with mixed 
sugar and cinnamon. Let rise till 5 and bake 
^ hour. 



60a~Peacli Butter. 

8 cupfuls of sliced peaches. 

4 cupfuls of Biigar. 

3 cupfuls of water. 

The peaches need not be peeled, but should 
be rubbed in a coarse towel before slicing. 

Put the water into a kettle or bright pan ; then 
the peaches; shut in the steam and let cook at 
the back of the stove, or set on bricks, for an 
hour or longer. Then add the sugar, and do not 
leave it, as it burns very easily, but keep stirring 
with a broad wooden paddle while it boils one- 
half hour more. Keep in a jar in a cool place. 



503— Family Fruit Cake. 

3 cupfuls of raisins — 1 pound. 

4 of currants — 1 pound. 
1 of sugar — 6 ounces. 

1 of butter— 6 ounces. 
1 molasses — 13 ounces. 

3 eggs. 

1 cupful of sour Uiilk. 
1 teaspoonful of soda. 

4 large cupfuls of flour — 18 ounces. 

Having prepared the fruit, make the butter 
soft, mix it and the sugar, molasses, eggs and 
sour milk together in a pan, and beat well; mix 
the soda in the flour, put that in and beat again. 
Dust the fruit with flour, atir it, bake in a mold 
or shallow pan. 

Another cake of the same sort can be made by 
mixing fruit in the sponge ginger-bread, No. 
220. 



MENU NO. XLVI.— BREAKFAST. 



504r-Stewed Kabbit. 

1 rabbit 

1 slice of salt pork. 

1 teaspoonful of minced onion. 

Black pepper and salt. 

Flour thickening. 

Cut the rabbit in pieces, according to its size, 
and let them lie in cold water overnight. Put 
on in the morning with enough to cover, and let 
stew until tender — about two hours, unless the 
rabbit happens to be young. Toward the latter 
part of the time out the pork in small pieces, 
and put in, and the onion. Season with a tea- 
spoonful of mixed pepper and salt, and thicken 
with a spoonful of flour stirred up with water. 



505— Hamburg Steak, 

1 pound of beef. 

1 clove of garlic, minced. 

1 teaspoonful of minced onion. 

1^ teaspoonful of black pepper. 

Same of salt. 

Chop the beef like sausage meat, with one- 
fourth fat to three-fourths lean. Add the 
seasonings. Make it up in balls, tlatten out to 
thin cakes, dust with flour on both aidea and fry 
in a frying pan with a little drippings. 



506— tyonaise Potatoes, 

Lyonaise potatoes are cold boiled potatoes 
sliced in a frying-pan, and browned with a little 
minced onion mixed with the drippings. But, 
on account of the very general objection to 
onions, at least among business people, the name 
of lyonaise is often given to the plain article, 
that is, to cold potatoes fried more or less brown, 
in a little fat in a frying-pan without the onions. 
Other restaurant names for this favorite way of 
cooking potatoes are sauteed and Dutch fried. 



96 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



507— Oujelet with Onions mid Parsley. 

Slice a small onion aa thin aa possible and fry 
it in a small frying-pan with a spoonful of lard 
and a plate inverted over it to hasten the cooking 
•without getting the onion brown. Chop a spoon- 
ful ot parsley 

Mix 2 eggs with a tablespoonf ul of milk and 
pinch of salt and the parsley, and pour it into 
the omelet frying-pan, already greased with a 
spoonful ot clear butter, and set it over the fire 
Drain the cooked onion away from the grease, 
strew it over the omelet, shake the pan to keep 
the omelet loose from the edges, and when it is 
nearly set in tlie middle roll it, and dish with tbe 
smooth side up. 



508— Yeast-Raised Batter Cakes, Without 

Egss. 
1 heaping cupful of flour. 

1 cupful of water or milk. 
1.^ cupful of yeast 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted lard. 
Same of syrup. 

Little salt. 

Mix all together, the same as setting sponge 
for bread, either with cold water over night, the 
batter to be set in a warm place in the morning 
to rise for breakfast, or else four or five hours 
before the meal with warm water or millc Beat 
well, the more the better, both at the time of 
mixing and just before baking. 



MENU NO. XLVII.— BUSINESS LUNCH. 



509-Ox Tail Soup. 

33^ quarts of soup stock. 

1 ox tail. 

1 small carrot. 

1 turnip. 

1 onion. 

Celery, bay leaf, cloves, salt and pepper. 

Make the stock by boiling a beef shank in 6 
quarts of water several hours, until it is reduced 
one-half 

While the stock is boiling take a carrot, turnip, 
onion and stalk of celery, and, with any kind of a 
round cutter or an apple-corer and knife, cut 
enough lozenge shapes to fill a cup with the 
mixed sorts. Throw a few of the remaining 
scraps mto the boiling stock for seasoning, and 
J^ a bay leaf and 3 cloves. 

Saw the ox tail into thin round slices and 
steep them an hour in cold water The ox tail 
must stew at least 2 or 3 hours to be eatable and 
so far dissolved as to enrich the soup, aud it 
may be done either in the stock boiler, and the 
pieces picked out afterward lo go in the soup 
plates, or may be stewed in some of the stock in 
a separate saucepan, whichever may be most 
convenient. 

At last strain the specified amount of stock 
clear into the soup pot. Boil the shapes of 
vegetables in water by themselves % hour, then 



drain off and put them into the soup, also the ox 
tail slices. Add brown butter and flour thick- 
ening in small quantity, let the soup simmer 
slowly until it becomes smooth and clear again, 
and sldm until all the fat is removed. Season 
with salt and cayenne. 

Serve a slice or two of the ox tail and some of 
the vegetables in each plate. 



When a soup like the foregoing has not a 
clear syrup-like sort of thickness or body, but is 
dull, like flour gravy it may he cleared by 
longer simmering and adding more stock with 
some cold tomato juice, or lemon juice, or even 
cold water, and skimming from the side. 

If not already light brown add a spoonful ot 
burnt sugar caramel. 



510— Oysters and Macaroni— Milanaise. 

A third of a package of macaroni — 5 ounces. 

1 cupful of oysters — 3 dozen. 

3^ cupful of butter — 3 ounces. 

1 cupful of milk — 3^ pint. 

legg. 

1 tablespoonful of flour. 

Pepper aud salt. 

Boil the macaroni by itself first, throwing it 
into water that is already boiling and salted. 
Let it cook only twenty minutes, then drain it 
dry. Butter the bottom of a baking or pudding 
pan that will hold three pints. Put in half the 
macaroni, strew the oysters over it, drop in the 
butter in small pieces, dredge with salt and 
pepper and cover with the rest of the macaroni. 
Mix the spoonful of flour with a little milk, 
beat in the egg, then the i est of the milk, and 
oyster liquor, if any ; pour it into the pan, and 
bake until it is set, or about twenty minutes. 



511— Broiled Guinea Fowl. 

Prepare young guinea fowls like young chick- 
ens for broiling ; use the old ones in pies and 
stews. Split them down the back, draw, wash, 
wipe dry and flatten them with a stroke of the 
cleaver on the back. Pepper and salt on both 
sides, dip them in flour and place them on the 
gridiron. While they are broiling brush them 
over with a brush dipped in butter. They re- 
quire about fifteen minutes to cook. Serve with 
potatoes and butter gravy in the dish. 



SIS- Chicken Fie, Plain. 

When chicken pie or any similar dish is writ- 
ten in a menu as of some partiular style, it, ot 
course, carries the implication that there ara 
more ways than one. A very small variation or 
addition ot vegetables, mushrooms 01 eggs and 
wine may suffice to change the name It ii only 
necessary to say here that one way by which 
young chickens, squirrels, rabbits, etc., are 
partly fried in butter before being covered with 
a crust, and the gravy in the pan is made rich 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL 



97 



and light browD, may be found detailed at No. 
209, for pigeon pie, and the following is the 
other principal method, or country stylo: 

1 large fowl or 2 chickens. 

1 slice of fat salt pork — 3 ounces. 

1 large potato. 

1 teaspoonful of minced onion. 

1 of black pepper 

1 of salt. 

1 pound of pie cruat 

2 tablespoonfuia of flour. 
A little parsley 

The salt pork is only a seasoning, aud may be 
dispensed with or substituted with butter. or the 
tat of the fowls. 

Cut the fowl in 6 pieces if large, first divid- 
ing it in half through the back and breast, chop 
each side m three, taking a piece out between 
the leg and the wing. Cook the gizzard and 
heart with the fowl, but leave out the liver, 
which is apt to impart its flavor to the whole 
dish. Boil the meat till tender, which may take 
anywhere from 1 hour to 4, according to the 
kind of fowl. It does not make much difference 
how old the fowl is if it be boiled accordingly 
vith the seasonings added. It will make the 
liquor rich as jelly after a while. 

Half an hour before taking the fowl from the 
fire put in the potato, cut in pieces, and after- 
ward thicken the liquor with flour and water and 
mix in some chopped parsley. 

Turn it into a baking pan, dredge a little more 
black pepper over the top and a little flour over 
that, then cover with plain pie paste and bake it 
X hour. 

513-Clder Punch. 

1 bottle of "champagne" cider. 
1 cupful of sugar. 

1 of sherry. 

2 lemons. 

y^ cupful of water. 

Mix the sugar, water and wine together in a 
pitcher, and stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
slice in the lemons as for lemonade, put in a 
lump of ice, and then fill up with cider. 



MENU NO XLVIII. 



Church Festival Dishes. 

Among all the associations that have been 
formed for the amelioration of the condition of 
the human race, is it nol wonderful that there 
has never yet appeared a ' Society for the Im- 
provement of the Quality ot Church Festival 
Suppers .' " This, oi course, would embrace all 
similar affairs gotten up tor the purpose ol rais- 
ing money, such as lor buying books 
for the library, furnishing the Lyceum 
Hall, buying instruments tor the brass band, 
buying uniforms for the fire company, or for the 
benefit of some unfortunate and worthy object 
of compassion and charity These affairs are 



taking place too frequently and too constantly to 
be ignored by any one who is at all interested in 
the subjecv of cookery No doubt but, if they 
were set at regular intervals apart, one or more 
such festival takes place for every hour in the 
year, and so far as the cooking ot dishes is in- 
volved, there is nothing needs improvement so 
much. The writer has had something to do with 
scores, perhaps hundreds, of them, either directly 
or indirectly, either willingly or otherwise, and 
this desoript on of the very latest will nearly fit 
the culinary management of them all. 

The parties interested procure the use of a 
vacant store and divide themselves into commit- 
tees, and the Supper Committee subdivides into 
a committee to cook the oysters, a committee to 
procure and put up the stove, another to pre- 
pare sandwiches, another cakes, another pickles 
and preserves, another the ice-cream, the coffee, 
and so forth Some of the articles are to be 
made at the members' own houses, in the places 
and with the ulensils they are accustomed to, 
and that part goes on well. A candy maker, 
who is a member, offers, it they will 
furnish the sugar, to make the candy, 
this is done, and that part goes 
well , and there is a person who thipks it will be 
good fun to sell the candy, and goeSjand borrows 
a glass show-case and scales and weights, with- 
out wailing to be appointed a committee; so 
that goes well too. But not so with the cooking. 
It is a poor festival that will not have a h iin- 
dred visitors, and perhaps there will be twice 
that many. They all come with the special in- 
tention of eating oysters, if it be in the oyster 
seasoh, and the managers always undertake to 
cook for them on one rusty little old castaway 
stove that is not really large enough to do the 
cooking for a family 

The committee finds the stove in a woodshed 
where they are directed on the morning of the 
festival day, but never can find all the stove pipe, 
and by the time the missing joint or elbow is 
finally put in place it is pretty well along in the 
afternooa The different committee, drop in to 
see whether each other has arrived and then 
drop out again until, about sunset, the commit- 
tee on setting the tables grows anxious and sets 
the coffee boiler on the fire. Then a spectator 
asks what time they will have the oysters ready, 
and somebody sets on the tin pail full of milk, 
but as the stove is too small to hold both, the 
coffee-pot has to be set back against 
the stove-pipe, oi-, perhaps, on the hearth in 
trout. Then the committee on oysters comes in 
and seem surprised; says that somebody said 
tliere was plenty of help, and there was no need 
to come any earlier, but proceeded at once to 
fill th6 stove with chips and the fat rind of the 
sandwich ham, and ten minutes later a'.l the 
milk they have in the house is scorched on the 
bottom, and tastes of it. Bat it has to go in all 
the same, and in go the oysters. Before many 



98 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



dishes of stewed oysters have gone in the ques- 
tion is asked more and more frequently 
whether oysters cannot be had in other 
ways beside stewed and raw, and at last there 
is a determined demand for fried, and the com- 
mittee answers yes, they can have them in a few 
luiiiutea. Then some one discovers that the 
coffee has never been put in and the water does 
not boil; but it is hot and the coffee is stirred in, 
the oyster stew kettle or pail is set on the iloor, 
the coffee-pot is put in the hottest place for three 
minutes, then fifteen or twenty waiting cups are 
fiiUed, the coffee still floating on top of the water 
because not cooked, being held back with a spoon. 
Meantime a skillet has been found, a spoonful 
of grease is put in it, and it is set over 
the fire. Sjmebody rolls a few oyster 
crackers on the table with a bottle, partly crush- 
ing them, but there is ueither eeive nor rolling- 
piu in the house. The oysters are rolled over in 
the crushed crackers and the slallei is half filled 
with them. They are then stirred about with a 
spoon, like so much cold sliced potatoes or hash 
being warmed up, and sent in a mess of grease, 
crackers and oysters jumbled together Some- 
body ventures to ask whether they would not 
have been better dipped m egg first, and the 
committee answers that it would have been too 
much trouble and take too much time, and that 
they could not afford the eggs any way— which is 
quite true, and eggs are not necessary to fry oys- 
ters properly, as we will show further oil While 
this has been going on, the discovery has been 
made that the oyster stew is all gone, except 
some quarts of the liquor, but there are no oys- 
ters in it, and half the tables have not been 
served yet; so the oyster pail goes on the fire 
again and some raw oysters in it Tnere ia too 
much clamor for more for it to be allowed to 
boil again; besides, some half dozen persons or 
more must have some tea, and there is no tea 
and no committee on tea. But the water must 
be hurried to boil and the oyster frymg 
must KO on, so the stew is pii.shed back and is 
dialled up with the oysters neither cooked nor 
raw, but warm and repulsive. 

We "set down naught in malice,'' and will not 
ask how the people at the tables like the pupper, 
nor what motives, whether of policy or benevo- 
lence, they have for paying to partake ot it, but 
supposing the desire all around is to have the 
supper good, we merely describe the disorder 
before pointing out our part of the remedy, and 
would suggest, first, that al every festival of the 
kind where any cooking, coffee-making or dish- 
washing is to be done, there should be two stoves 
at least, and plenty of boiling water ready 
for all purposes in a reservoir, or some vessel 
that cannot be emptied and taken tor another 
purpose ; second, borrow all the kitchen tables 
that there is room to place, or that can possibly 
be used for setting dishes on, for provisions and 
for cooking operations— the dining-room and its 



tables will take care of themselves ; third, have it 
positively decided beforehand what is to be 
cooked, and in what way, and then provide both 
the necessary materials and the proper utensils; 
fourth, make the closest estimate possible of the 
quantities required, based upon the guide 
recipes here appended, and have it understood 
where more oysters, more milk, butter, coffee, 
ice, salt, fruit, bread, etc.. can be procured if 
needed, and who is to go for them, and, fifth, 
set some one to cook oysters, at least, who has 
haa experience of larger demands than those of 
a family table. 

51<t-Oyster Stew for Fifty. 

A quart of small oysters bulk, "solid meat,' 
contains t5 dozen. 

A quart of selects, bulk, "solid meat," contains 
4 to i}{ dozen. 

A canof selects contains SJ^ dozen, generally. 

The ordinary conventional oyster stew, such as 
people expect to receive when it is cooked to 
order, is a pint bowl nearly full, consisting of 1 
dozen oysters and 1 or IJ^ cups of milk, or milk 
aud oyster liquor. 

To serve this according to the letter a pint o( 
small oysters should be sufficient for 4 stews or 
a can of selects for S}{ or 4; but as the stews for 
a large number are dipped up and guessed there 
is always a discrepauoy, and a pint can only be 
relied upon for 3 diahea, though a pint ot selects 
may hold out on account of their larger size. 

Proceeding on those calculations provide for 
50 stews: 

9 quarts of small oysters, or 13 or 13 quarts of 
selects, or 14 or 15 cans of selects. 

1}.{ gallons of milk. 

3^ gallon of oyster liquor or water. 

1 pound of fresh butter. 

3 tablespoonfuls of salt. 

Set the milk on in good time that it may heat 
gradually and not burn, and put in the required 
amount of salt, which also helps to prevent 
burning. A thick metal pot is better thau a thin 
tin pail for such a purpose. As to measures, 
it may be remembered that a commou 
wooden pail holds 2}4 gallons or 10 quarts. 
Never cook oysters and milk both together from 
the first. 

If it can be done conveniently, instead of set- 
ting the oysters over tne fire aa they are. to heat 
up gradually, and some to cook and shrink to 
nothing before others are fairly warm, and prob- 
ably to burn on the bottom besides, drain them 
in a sieve or colander, and pour a quart of boil- 
ing water over them. The liquor will then run 
through abundantly. Set it on tlje fire, boil and 
skim, then put the oysters in and add the boiling 
milk. Drop in the butter and take the kettle of 
oyster stow off the fire aud do not let it boil any 
more. 

For oyster soup, made with half as many oys- 
ters, see No. 270. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



99 



515— Oysters Fried Without Eggs. 

Mix oraoker-meal and flour together, about 
half and half, but the cracker-meal rather the 
larger. If none to be bought at the stores crush 
oyster crackers and put them through a flour 
aeive. 

Have some milk in a shallow dish. 

Dip the oysters out of their own liquor into 
the mixed meal and flour, out of that into the 
milk, then into the mixture again. It does no 
harm to let them lie a while before frying. 
Handle carefully, not to nib any of the coating 
off, as it will not adhere a second time. 

Have enough lard very hot in a dee^J pan to 
quite cover the oysters. Drop in a few at a time, 
fry 3 to 4 minutes, take out with a skimmer when 
light brown and drain free from grease before 
sending them in. 

The milk causes them to fry to the same fine 
browu color as if eggs were used. If they are 
quite immersed and fried quickly in lard that is 
hissing hot, they come out crisp and dry ret full 
of the juice of the oyster. If simmered in lard 
that 13 only half deep enough the breading peels 
off like so much greasy pudding. 

It is useless to try to hurry up a large quan- 
tity by filling the pan too full: that must be done 
by having more pans or deeper ones and more 
hot lard. It does quite as well to put a deep pan 
of lard iuside the oven and fry them that way 
when the top of the stove is otherwise oocunied. 
For the sake of an estimate it may be calculated 
that two ounces of lard will be used for every 
dozen oysters fried — not that it will be all gone, 
but it becomes black with sediment and foul 
with the gelatine of the oysters and has to be re- 
newed. 



516-Clam B^itters Without Eges. 
Take fresh clams and their liquor in a separate 
pan and bread them in a mixture of cracker 
meal and flour, as directed for fried oysters in 
the preceding article. Dip the clams, however, 
in the meal mixture 4 times, giving them four 
coats, three of them with their own liquor, and 
the last dip in milk before the cracker-meal. 
Glam fritters are better made this way than with 



517 -Clam Chowder, 

2 cupf uls of clams, or a can. 
A slice of salt pork — 6 ounces. 
4 cupfuls of sliced raw potatoes. 
J.^ cupful of sliced onion. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 

14 teaspoonful of pepper. 

2 cupfuls of milk and the clam liquor. 
1 cupful of broken crackers. 

Cut the pork small, put it m a pan that will 
hold over 2 quarts' and baiieor fry it light brown. 
Put the potatoes, onions and clams on too 
of the fried pork in layers, add the 



milk and clam liquor with the seasoning in, 
the crushed crackers on top, and bake until the 
potatoes are done, or over an hour. The sur- 
face should be moistened with spoonfuls of the 
liquor and a greased paper laid ou top to pre- 
vent burning. 



518— Boiled Ham. 

A ham that weighs 14 pounds as bought raw 
will weigh only 13 pounds after boiling, and will 
yield 9 pounds of meat to slice. A -plate of 
ham is about 4 ounces. A 14-pound ham may be 
expected ti make about forty plates. 



519— Ham Sandwiches. 

About 1 ounce of ham is enough for a large 
biscuit sandwich for a party, and 3 ounces for 
the larger sort, made with baker's rods, for sale 
at lunch counters. A ham that weighs 14 
pounds raw will make about 140 of the festival 
sandwiches or 75 for lunch counters. Another 
way besides slicing the ham for sandwiches is to 
take the pieces that will not make good alices 
for the plates and chop fine, season with pepper 
and warm butter and a little made mustard, and 
spread the mince between the split biscuits. 

530— Baliing-Powder Biscuits. 

Not long since we witnessed what seemed 
a somewhat odd proceeding— the sending of 
a sample of baking-powder biscuits 
from one friend to another some 
fifty miles away as a present. They were daintily 
packed in a delicate fringed napkin, in a dainty 
little basket, and were sent carefully by rail. 
Just biscuits! But these were almost as good as 
fine rolls ; they were cut out rather large, just right 
for church fair sandwiches ; they were white, fine 
grained, soft and flaky, and, come to think of it, 
what with the seiting aside of the yeast-raised 
breads, and the growing forgetfuluess of how to • 
make them, and the misrepresentations of the 
baking-powder makers, really fine biscuits, are 
getting to be scarcer than diamonds, and are 
rising in value accordingly. If things keep 
growing worse in the domestic bread line a few 
years longer, Christmas cards will go out of 
fashion and people will pay high prices for the 
few fine biscuits that will be attainable and send 
them as presents instead. This mischief is 
caused by the baking-powder manufacturers 
saying that two, or even one, teaspoonful of 
powder is enough for a q uart of flor.r, and as 
most people use only a level teaspoonful, or at 
most only slightly rounded, it ha-i no perceptible 
effect at all and the biscuits are dreadful. If bis- 
cuits are wanted that will do to send as Christ- 
mas presents you must use three heaping tea- 
spoonfuls of the best powder in the market. Of 
course it is expensive. Baldng-powder bread is 



100 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



the dearest in the world. But this is the way to 
make it good: 

1 pound or quart of flour. 

Lard size of an egg, melted ; or 4 tablespoon- 
fula. 

3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

1 small teaapoonful of salt 

3 cupfuls of water or milk. 

Mix the powder in the flour dry. Place the 
melted lard in a hollow in the middle, the salt 
and water or milk with that, and stir around, 
drawing the flour in gradually, so as to make a 
smooth, soft dough. Turn out on the floured 
table. Press the dough out flat with the hands, 
fold it over again and again, and press out till 
it is compact, even and smooth. Let stand 5 
minutes. Boll out and cut into biscuits. Bake 
15 minutes. 



531— To Make Baklne Powder, 

3 teaspoonfuls cream tartar. 
1 teaspoonful baking soda. 
1 teaspoonful corn starch. 
Mix all together by sifting and it is ready for 
use. 



533— Plain, Sweet Buns, Made Withont Egcs. 

2 large cupfuls of light bread dough — 1 pound. 
Butter or lard size of an egg — 3 ounces. 

3 heaping tablespoonf uls of sugar — 3 ounces. 
Extract of cinnamon or nutmeg to flavor. 
Take the light dough from the bread pan at 

about noon and work in the butter, sugar and 
flavoring. Let stand an hour; then knead thor- 
oughly, observing the directions already several 
times elsewhere repeated, to spread and pound 
the dough with the flsts, and fold over and repeat 
till the dough is full of air bubbles, silky-looking 
and elastic. 

At i o'clock knead again, mold 
into round balls, flatten them slightly 
as you place them in the pan, and touch each 
side with melted lard if they are likely to touch 
each other, for the lard prevents sticking to- 
gether. Rise an hour in the pan, bake about 
SO minutes. Brush them over tbe tops with 
syrup when done, and dredge granulated sugar 
upon thenL 

533 -MerinfiTue Cakes. 

Bake sheets of cake in large pans — Nos. 36 and 
332 are good kinds of cake— and cover them 
with meringue or frosting made as for star 
kisses, which has more sugar than that for frost- 
ing lemon pies, and consequently is firmer to 
cut. Bake the meringue very gently with the 
oven door open, and slip a board under the pan 
to keep the caUe from baking too much on the 
bottom. Cut the cake in squares when done. 

Granulated sugar sifted over the top of the 
frosting before baking gives it a finer glazed 
Burface. 



534— Strawberry Shortcake. 

It is a cake of short paste, not sweet, as large 
as a dinner plate and thick as a biscuit, split in 
two after baking, strawberries and sugar spread 
on the lower half, the other placed on 
top with the split side upward and 
more berries spread upon that. It is 
eaten with cream. The ingredients required are : 

1 cupful of lard or butter — 8 ounces. 

3 cupfuls of flour — 12 ounces. 

i4 teaspoonful of salt 

1 cupful of ice water. 

1 quart of strawberries. 

1 cupful of sugar — 8 ounces. 

Pick the stems from the berries before making 
the paste, also mix the sugar with them by shak- 
ing about and set them in a cool nlace. 

Eub the butter into tbe flour thoroughly with 
the hands. Salt is needed only when lard is 
uaed. Make a hollow in the middle, pour in tlie 
water, mix up sott, roll out on the table in flour 
reserved for the purpose. It makes the cake 
flaky and part in layers to roll it and fold it a 
few times like pie paste. 

Then make it up round, let stand five minutes, 
roll out thick as biscuit and bake on a jelly-cake 
pan. Finish with fruit as above stated. 



535--Gemian Coffee Cake. 

Make the sweetened light dough the same as 
for buns at No. 533, and at 4 o'clock, instead of 
making it into round buns roll it out very thin — 
not thicker than a pencil — then take upon the 
rolling-pin and unroll it on a large baking-pan. 
Brush over the surface with a spoonful of lard 
melted in hot water, to prevent a cruse drying 
on top, and let it rise an hour. Before setting 
the light cake in the oven mark it with cuts of a 
knife point to prevent puffing up. Bake ten 
minutes. Brush over as soon as done with 
syrup and sift mixed powdered sugar and 
ground cinnamon all over it. Cut in squares. 



536— German Susar Tops. 

Eich cookies sprinkled with gravel sugar. 

1 cupful of sugar — 8 ounces. 

}{ cupful of butter, large— 4 ounces. 

3 eggs. 

J^ cupful of milk. 

3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 

4 cupfuls of flour — 1 pound. 

Work the softened butter and sugar together 
to a cream, the same as for pound cake, beat the 
eggs and mix them in, then the milk, and the 
flour with the powder mixed in it Keep the 
dough as soft as it can be handled. After it has 
been pressed and worked smooth on the table 
let it alone a few minutes before rolling out, 
then the cakes will not draw out of shape when 
cut 

While they are baking mix an egg and some 
syrup together in a cup, add some flavoring 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



101 



extract, brush the hot cakes over with it and 
dredge gravel sugar on top. 

Gravel sugar is loaf sugar crushed and the 
dust sifted away, then again sifted in a colander. 
The sugar that parses through the holes of the 
colander is gravel sugar. 

527-Cofleo for a Festival. 

1 half pint cupful of ground coffee shaken in 
and heaped up is 4 ounces. 

4 ounces of ground coffee makes 8 half pints 
or 10 cups, as they are commonly filled, of good 
quality. 

1 pound of coffee makes 3 gallons or 40 cups 
3 teaspoonfula of sugar on an average is used 

to sweeten a cup of ooffe. 

3 teaapoonfuls is an ounce. 

2}4 pounds of sugar, or 40 ounces, is required 
for every pound of coffee, or forty cups. 

2 tablespoonfuls of cream, on an average, is 
required to each cup of coffee. 

14 tablespoonfuls make J^ pint. 

1}',2 or 2 pints of cream is enough for every 
pound of coffee, or 40 cups ; provided, however, 
the cream be served in individual small pitchers. 



528— Ice Cream and Stx^wberries. 

Four quarts of cream is sufficient for fifty com- 
mon plates of ice cream. It will increase to six 
quarts in bulk if properly frozen, and there 
should be room in the freezer accordingly. A 
little difference will be found in amount re- 
quired when berries are served in the same plate. 

Strawberries generally are improved by being 
covered with sugar some hours before they are 
to be used, and set in a cold place to form their 
own syrup. 

Eecipes for making different kmds of ice cream 
and frozen custards may be found by reference 
to the index. 

MENU NO. XLIX.— BREAKFAST. 



539— FresU Strawberrie 

If you have fine freshly gathered strawberries 
properly clipped off with an inch of the stalk 
attached do not pick them over, but serve as they 
are, with powdered sugar in very small glass 
bowls set at each plate. But strawberries that 
are to be served from a bowl and with, cream are 
generally the better if covered with powdered 
sugar and set on ice some time before the meal. 



530- Soft Shell Crabs, Fried. 

Every part of a soft shell crab is eatable, shell, 
claws and all except the sand scraper, which pnll 
off and wash the crab and dry it. Breaa it in 
the usual manner, by dipping in egg in which a 
small proportion of water has been beaten, then 
in cracker-meal. Drop it into a saucepan of hot 
lard or oil and fry light brown in about ten 
minutes. Mayonaise sauce may be served at the 
side separately. 



531— Breaded Teal Cutlets, Broiled. 

Cut thin chops of the ribs, scrape the end of 
the bone clean for about an inch, trim off the 
gristle from the broad end, flatten slightly with 
the cleaver, dredge with pepper and salt, dip in 
melted butter on a plaie, then in bread crumbs 
minced extremely fine, then in the butter, then 
in the bread crumbs agam. Grease a sheet of 
writing paper with oil or butter and lay it on 
the gridiron over clear coals and the cutlets 
upon it, thus giving them lime to get done before 
the breading is brown. Throw the paper away 
at last and finish the cutlets on the bars. Serve 
garnished with parsley and lemon. 



533~Sauteed Sweet Potatoes. 

Slice cold steamed sweet potatoes into a frying- 
pan that has butter m it, only just enough to 
cover the bottoia When the potatoes have be- 
come lightly browned underneath, shake the pan 
and toss them over. Dredge with salt. 



533— Froffs* LeiSB Fricasseed. 

Take the frogs out of the cold water they have 
been steeping in, and, having trimmed away the 
feet, place them in a broad-bottomed saucepan 
with a little fresh butter and very little minced 
shalot, and let them stew in the butter until it 
begins to brown, then pour in half cup of sherry 
or white wine, or a little of each (for a dozen 
large frogs saddles) and twice as much hot 
water. Stew with the lid on for twenty minutes, 
then skim off moat of the butter and add a sea- 
soning of salt and cayenne. Thicken the liquor 
with four yolks of eggs beaten with two spoon- 
fuls of cream. Pour some of the hot liquor to 
the yolks before adding them to the contents of 
the saucepan, and take it from the fire almost 
immediately, or as soon as it shows the first sign 
of boiling again. Place the frogs in order in the 
dish and pour the sauce over them through a 
strainer. Progs can also be plainly stewed like 
chickens, without wine and without the egg 
thickening. 

534— Toneae Toast. 

Make some thin slices of toast, cut them to a 
shape and cut off rough edges. Spread thinly 
with butter, then with a layer of potted tongue, 
and set in the oven with the door open for a few 
minutes. 



535 -Potted Tongue. 

Boil a corned tongue 3 hours, if a beef tongue, 
cr until tender. Dip it in cold water and peel 
off the skin. Cut up and mince small, then 
pound it to a paste. Melt two large oupf uls of but- 
ter and prepare a teaspoonful of mixed ground 
spices, half mace and the rest cloves, nutmeg 
and cayenne. Add the spices to the tongue, and 
a little salt besides, and most of the clear part of 
the melted batter, and pound it all together. 



102 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCPIOOL. 



Press it into cups or small jars tightly to exclude 
the air and pour the rest of the clear butter on 
top. Keep covered in a cool place. 

SSe—Ham and lEsss- 

Cut out the meaty side of a ham, close down 
by the boue, all in one piece, then, after shaving 
off all the outside, cut it as wanted into broart 
s.ioes as thin as they can be cut with a sharp 
knife. Broil a slice about four minutes over 
clear coals. 

Break 3 eggs into a small, deep dish, put a 
teaspoonf ul of clear melted lard into a very small 
frying-pan, and before it gets very hot pour in 
the eggs without breaking the yolks. When 
nearly done, dexterously turn one half over onto 
the other. Place the broiled ham on a good- 
sized dish, well up toward one end of it, and the 
eggs lying on the edge of it in the middle of the 
dish. 

537— Finest Breakfast Bolls. 

8 level cupfuls of flour— 2 quarts or pounds. 
1 full cup of milk — 1< pint. 
}4 cup of yeast, or a compressed yeaat cake dis- 
solved. 
Butter size of an egg — 2 "ounces. 

1 tablespoonfnl of sugar — 1 ounce 

2 yolks of eggs. 

J^ teaspoonful of salt. 

Keep back a cupful of the flour to knead with. 
Sift 7 cupfuls into the bread pan, put all the 
ingredients named info the hollow middle, the 
butter melted first, and mix up to soft dough 
and knead it thoroughly on the table. Set it 
away to rise in a warm place. Before the dough 
is put back in the pan, however, the pan should 
be scraped clean and the inside brushed siightly 
with melted lard or butter, and the lump oX 
douRh rolled over in it that the touch may pre- 
vent a crust forming, or sticking to the pan. 
The first thing in the morning, knead the dough 
again, pounding and folding over repeatedly, 
then roll out to a sheet, cut out, brush one side 
of each piece with melted butter and double 
them to form "pocket-book" rolls. Set to rise 
for an hour or longer. Bake 10 minutes. 



538— Rice Croquettes. 

3^ cupful of rice, raw— or 3 cups cooked. 
13^ cupfuls of water and milk. 
Butter size of a guinea egg — an ounce. 

1 tablespoonfnl of sugai'. 

2 yolks, or 1 egg. 
Nutmeg. 

Put the rice on to boil in a measured cupful of 
water, and when it is half done add J.^ cupful of 
milk. It is an object to have the rice dry when 
done, and yet well cooked. Keep the steam shut 
in while it is cooking. When soft enough, mash 
it slightly with the back of a spoon, work in the 
other ingredients and a pinch of salt. Make it 
in shapes, with flour on the hands, like small 



biscuits, and make a hollow in the middle tohold 
a spoonful of jelly. Having coated the shapes 
well with flour, fry them in a saucepan of hot 
lard. They will do without breading in egg and 
cracker meal. Put currant jelly in the depres- 
sion when dishing up. 

539-\Faffle5, Yeast Raised. 

To make the cheapest waffles without eggs 
use the batter made by the recipe No. 508, and 
dry them well in the wafSe irons. The following 
makes a richer and better sort: 

S cupfuls of flour— 13 ounces. 

1}4 cupfuls of milk. 

'■4 cupful of yeast, or a yeast cake in water. 

1 tablespoonfnl of sugar or syrup. 
Lard size of an egg, melted. 

2 eggs. 

1 teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix up over ni^'ht with the milk cold ; early in 
the morning set the batter where it will get 
warm, and when it is well risen beat it thor- 
oughly. 

Put a spoonful of melted lard in the waiile 
iron and turn it over to grease both sides. Pour 
the batter in from a pitcher and bake brown on 
both sides. 

540— Bakins Powder Waffles and Batter 
Cakes. 

3 cupfuls of flour — 8 ounces. 

2 of water or milk. 

3 tablespoonfuls of melted lard. 
1 of syrup. 

1 egg. Little salt. 

1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Put all the above at once, except about half 
the milk, into a deep pan and stir up hard. Thin 
it down with the rest of the milli. 



MENU NO. L.— DINNER. 



541— Clams on tbe Half Shell. 

The smallest clams are preferred. Wash the 
outside thoroughly before opening. Loosen the 
clams from the shell they are served in and re- 
tain all the liquor the shell will hold. Place i or 
5 in each plate and half a lemon in the middle. 

543— Terrapin Soup. 

Meat and stock of 3 terrapins. 

3 quarts of veal and chicken stock. 

Herbs and seasonings. 

Light butter-and-flour thickening. 

Lemon and wine. 

To prepare the terrapin from the first see 
directions at No. 453. 

There will be 3 or 8 pints of the liquor they 
were boiled in. Make as much more by boiling 
the heads in water until dissolved, also cut the 
meat of the terrapins into p eces of small size 
and put most of the bones back in the soup, 
keeping the meat to be added later. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



103 



Make 2 quarts of good meat stock by boiling a 
veal shank and a chicken in 4 quarts of -water 
until reduced to 3 quarts. Add while it is boil- 
ing a small slice of ham, a green onion, 3 
cloves, yi blade of mace, 4 or .5 sprigs of parsley, 
1 each of green thyme, marjoram and savory, if 
they can be had. When it ia reduced suf- 
ficiently take out the chicken and veal, pour 
the terrapin stock into the veal stock, and for 
every quart allow 1 tablespoonful of flour and 
the same of fresh butter. Work these together 
in a saucepan over the flre as if making drawn 
butter, pourinfi; in some of the soup when it 
begins to brown and then turning the whole into 
the soup pot. 

Then strain the soup through a fine strainer 
into a clean saucepan, let it simmer slowly and 
skim it until clear. Mix J^ cup of Madeira, 
juice of 14. ^ lemon and a large spoonful of cold 
water and add them to the soup and also the 
terrapin meat These will bring up the scum 
when the soup boils again and make it clearer 
still and bright. Season with salt and cayenne 
and add the terrapin eggs. 



543- Baked Sea Bass. 

Scale and clean the fish; leave the head on it 
it is to be sent to table whole. Make a stuffinj; 
for it of 2 pressed cupfuls of bread crumbs, a 
small cupful of butter, rind of a quarter of 
lemon minced fine, parsley, green thyme and 
marjoram, and pepper and salt, and two eggs 
mixed with a spoonful of water to moisten it. 
Sew up the fiah when stuffed. Mark it in slices 
as it is to be carved, on both sides, by cutting 
down to the bone, and put a thin slice of salt 
pork in each incision. Bake in a long pan, with 
soup stock and salt and pepper in it, about 30 or 
40 minutes, or according to size. Put a little 
strained tomatoes and brown gravy into the fish 
pan, and water it necessary; let boil up, skim 
and strain for sauce. 



544 — Roast r<eg of Mutton. 

For plain roast leg of mutton proceed in the 
same manner as for roast beef. Read remarks 
at No. 163. Whether the mutton shall be rare 
done or well done must depend upon the prefer- 
ences of those it is cooked for, but in either case 
the method is the same, and the natural gravy 
should flow from a well-done leg of mutton as 
well as one under-done, if not in such large 
quantity. It is best to make it a rule to always 
put a little salt in the pan the meat is roasted i;i, 
and water enough to cover the bottom, and if a 
made gravy is wanted some scraps and trim- 
mings beside. The reason is that the gravy that 
oozes from these scraps, and that will escape 
from the meat, too, to some extent, will be found 
at the end of the roasting sticl:ing to the bottom 
of the pan, while the grease ia above it as clear 
as water, and if this condensed gravy has salt in 



it it will dissolve as soon as the grease is poured 
off and water reaches it instead, but if tiiercis 
no salt it is slow to dissolve. A spoonful of 
thickening will be needed in it. 

Let the leg of mutton have a good brown color 
on the outside, even if not done through. Turn 
it over by lifting the projecting bone, and do not 
pierce the meat with a fork. From 1 hour to 2 
will be required to roast it, according to size. 

545— New Potatoes, Maitre d'Hotel. 
They never seem so good when they have to be 
pared. Take potatoes that are small and just 
out of the ground and scrape them, keeping 
thepi covered with cold water until time to cook. 
Put them on in cold water, with salt in it; boil 
with care, not to let them break when done. 
Drain off; put in fresh hot water, little salt, 
lump of butter, vinegar to make taste slightly, 
chopped parsley, and when these have boiled 
up, a spoonful of flour thickening. Shake about, 
without putting a spoon in, until it thickens. All 
articles that are a la maitre d'hotel have an acid 
and some green in the sauce. 



546 — Roast Green €roose. 

Singe and pick the young goose free from pin- 
feathers and draw it If to be sent to table 
whole, the pinions should be out off before 
cooking and the main wing Joints skewered to 
the back, and the legs held compactly to 
the side either with skewers or twine. 
Fry a minced onion in butter, light 
yellow, and not at all dark and strong, and mix 
it with some dry mashed potatoes; add an egg 
and the butter that the onion was fried in and a 
seasoning ot white pepper. Stuff the goose with 
the seasoned potato, sew up, bake it in a pan for 
about one hour, or more, if large. Dredga the 
goose over with flour when nearly done, and 
baste it with butter, which will produce a fins 
crust and brown color. 

It to be sent in whole, bake some small apples 
in a pan covered with greased paper and place 
them around the goose in a dish. 



547— SteTved Bntter Beans. 

Throw Lima or butter beans into a sauce-pan 
of water that is already boiling and has salt in 
it, and oook about half-hour, if green beans, 
but if dried they will take one and a half hours, 
besides a previous soaking in water. Drain 
away the water, and mix in a little cream sauce 
or butter sauce, or add milk, butter and salt, and 
thicken when it boils up. 



54S— Artichokes as a Tesetable. 

Let the artichokes lie in a pan of cold water, 
the same as is the rule for cauliflower, spinach, 
etc., an hour or two before they are to be cooked. 
Wash well, and if the tips of the leaves are dis- 
colored, clip them; cut the artichokes in 4 aud 
remove the stringy core. Have the water ready 



104 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



boiling, put in a teaspoonful of aalt and baking 
Boda the size of a bean, boil the artichokes about 
J^ hour or until the boft end of tiie leaf when 
pulled out proves to be tender. Drain and serve 
like cauliflower, 3 pieces in a dish, and aspoonful 
of butter sauce poured over. 



649— Lambs' Tong-ues Tvith Artichokes. 

Take, for preference, corned lambs' or sheeps' 
tongues of a good pink color, and boil them not 
less than 2 hours, which may be done the evening 
before they are served, if more convenient. Put 
them into cold water and peel off the outside and 
split them lengthwise in two. 

Having the halves ready in a dish when the 
roast meat is done, after taking it out lay the 
tongues in the fat and glaze in the baking pan 
for about 5 minutes, then take them out slightly 
browned and glazed and keep hot. 

Cook an artichoke for each dish, as directed in 
the preceding article, boiling them, that is to 
Bay, like summer cabbage or oauliilower, but cut 
them in halves instead of quarters ; only scoop 
out the fibrous part before cooking. Drain them 
well. Serve a half tongue in the small dish and 
a half artichoke at each end, and a spoonful of 
brown gravy over the vegetable without cover- 
ing the tongue. Tongue and spinach may be 
served the same way. 



S50— Supreme of Fillets of Fowl wita Aspara- 
g:as Points. 

Takes its name from sauce supreme, which is 
simply the richest white sauce that can be made ; 
and when the breasts of chickens, cut and 
trimmed perfectly smooth and shapely, are cov- 
ered in the dish with sauce looking as glossy as 
■ white aatm, just thin enough to settle down 
smooth, yet too thick to run off the meat, and 
spotted all over the surface with green heads of 
asparagus and bordered with the same, it makes 
a very attractive dish. There is no probability 
that such a name for a dish will ever he accepted 
for common among English-speaking people, the 
ideas associated with the word supreme making 
such a connection seem incongruous, if not 
ridiculous. We talk about it here because the 
dish is one of the most prominent in the banquets 
of the crowned heads and dignitaries of Europe, 
and it is desirable, at least, to know what it is. 

Take 3 fat pullets and cut them so that the 
breast and breast-bone entire will be one piece 
and the back and legs another. The latter may 
be chopped in small pieces to make the essence, 
as only the breasts are wanted for the dish. Boil 
all in about 4 quarts of water, but do not put in 
the breasts until the other is boiling, and take 
them out at the end of an hour, or sooner, if 
done. Then set them away to get cold. Add 
vegetable seasonings to tlie liquor the pieces are 
stewing in, but very little, for it has to be con- 
densed. When it has simmered half wav, strain 



the liquor through a napkin, set it on again in a 
bright saucepan, thicken it with two tablespoons- 
ful of flour and as much butter, that have been 
stirred together over the fire, but not browned, and 
keep it simmering slowlyand skim often. When 
it is down to a quart or less pour in the liquor 
from a can of mushrooms or some mushroom 
liquor obtained by boiling minced button mush- 
rooms for the purpose. When, after that, the 
sauce is again reduced to less than a quart, and 
is becoming thick, beat in a spoonful of fresli 
butter, a squeeze of lemon juice, salt and cay- 
enne, and boil a cup of cream in another sauce- 
pan. Add cream, a little at a time, to the sauce 
juat before it is wanted, making it of the con- 
sistency required, and pass it through a fine 
strainer. 

The breasts of the fowls are to be brought out 
a suificient time before the meal, cut carefully 
off the bone and trimmed to a good form, then 
made hot in chicken broth, taken up and placed 
on the dish or dishea, and the sauce poured 
over. 

The asparagus heads, having been cut from 
the stalks before cooking and carefully boiled 
like green peas, are to be drained and shaken 
about in butter, and placed in the dish with a 
fork. 



551— Scrambled Braius Id Fatties. 

1 pint or pound of brains. 

4 eggs. 

1 ounce of butter, size of an egg. 

Parsley, pepper and salt. 

Simmer the brains in water, with salt and a 
little vinegar in it, about 20 minutes. Take out, 
pick them over to remove the dark portions, put 
them into a frying-pan with the butter, break in 
the eggs, add a little obopped parsley, pepper 
and salt, and stir all together over the fire until 
the eggs in it are soft cooked. Then fill patty 
shells made of puff paste, put on the lids (see 
No. 256) and ornament with a sprig of parsley. 

Scrambled brains as above also make a good 
breakfast dish wifcbout the patties. It is com- 
mon to put the brains in the pan raw, but not a 
good way, for it is difficult to get them cooked 
through without making them too dry, and 
almost impossible to free them from blood dis- 
colorations. 



553- Rice Custard Fuddine. 

A large '% cup of raw rice — 4 ounces. 
Butter size of an egg — 1}^ ounces. 

2 tablespoonf uls of sugar- 2 oimoes. 

3 yolks of eggs. 
Vanilla extract to flavor. 
1 cupful of milk. 

Wash the rice and put it on to boil in a meas- 
ured cupful of water, and when it is half cooked 
pour in )^ cupful of milk. Put on the lid and 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



105 



let it cook gently at the back of the Btove. Never 
Btir it and it will not be very apt to burn. 

Then mix in the other ingredients— the ]4 cup 
milk remaining to be beaten m with the yolks — 
and pour it into a buttered pudding pan that will 
hold a quart Bake only till fairly set in the 
middle, as too much baking will cause the eggs 
to separate and make it watery. Serve with a 
sauce. 



553— Raspberry Tart. 

1 quart of fresh raspberries. 

1 small cupful of sugar. 

Puff paste for the crust. 

BoU the raspberries with the sugar spread 
over the top and only a spoonful or two of water 
in the pan to moisten the bottom until the juice 
begins to run. 

Lay a crust of puff paste rolled thinner in the 
middle than at the edges in a very small pie pan, 
or as many of them as are needed, fill the little 
pies with the stewed raspberries and bake with- 
out a top crust for about fifteen minutes. The 
puff paste edges of euoh pies as these rise the 
better if the oven is hot when they are first put 
in, and then allowed to cool so that they may dry 
well done. 



554-Ke<l Cherry Ice. 

4 oupfuls of sweet red or black enerries— 1 
quart. 

3 oupfuls of water— 1 pint 

2 level cupfula of sugar — 12 ounces. 

Mash the fruit raw and thoroughly so as to 
break the stones — a potato masher and deep 
saucepan will do — and strain the juice through a 
fine strainer into the freezer. Boil the cherry 
pulp with some of the sugar and water to extract 
the flavor from the kernels, and rub that also 
through the strainer, add the other pint of water 
and balance of the sugar and freeze. Use no 
white of eggs in this ice, as the color is not good 
unless frozen natural. Tliis makes a good ice 
for the third color in a Neapolitan. 



565— Queen Cakes. 

1 level cupful of granulated sugar — 7 ounces. 

1 of butter — 6 ounces. 

6 or 7 whites of eggs— 6 ounces. 

2 cupfuis of flour — 8 ounces. 
Grated rind and peel of }^ a lemon. 
5 tablespoonf uls of sherry. 

1 cupful of cut citron — 8 ounces. 

1 cupful of almonds, peeled and split. 

1 onpful of sultana seedless raisins. 

This, as is seen, is a white cake mixture with 
fruit in it The appearance will be the finer if 
the citron can be procured of a light green color, 
as it sometimes is. Ciet the fruit ready first 



Then cream the butter and sugar together, 
add the whites a very little at a time without 
previous beating. "When they are worked in add 
the flour, and after that beat the cake for about 
10 minutes. Add the flavorings and then 
the fruit, but first dust it well with flour to pre- 
vent sinkmg in the cake. 

Bake in small patty pans or mufiin rings, and 
when done spread the tops with icing. 



MENU NO. LI.— TEA. 



556- Deviled Crabs. 

Boil the crabs in salted water 30 minutes, 
open, crack the claws and take out the meat, 
measure it with a spoon into a bowl and add 
half as many spoonfuls of fine bread crumbs. 
For each crab add a teaspoonful of softened but- 
ter, same of vinegar mixed with a small tea- 
spoonful of made mustard, a pinch of salt and 
cayenne. Pack the mixture in the crab shells 
and cover the surface with cracker meal, bake 
brown in a brisk oven and baste the tops once 
with butter to moisten the Dreading. Serve in 
the shells. 



657— Buttered Toast. 

Slice the bread thin and toast in the wire 
broiler over clear coals, or over the stove fire 
with the stove lid removed. Cut off the rough 
edges, and cut the toast either in long or tri- 
angular pieces all alike. Moisten it slightly by 
pouring a very little boiling water over it with a 
teaspoon, especially around the edges; then 
spread with softened butter and set it before the 
fire a few minutes. 



558— Kice Waffles. 

1 cupful of dry, cooked rice. 
1 small cupful of milk. 

1 of flour. 

3 or 3 yolks and 1 whole egg. 

2 tablespoonfuls of melted butter. 
1 of syrup. 

Little salt 

1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Mash the dry-cooked rice in a pan with a little 
of the milk, which should be warm, till there are 
no lumps left, then add the rest of the ingredi- 
ents all at once, and beat up thoroughly. Bake 
in a waffle iron. 

Sour milk and soda can be used instead of 
sweet milk and baking powder. 



659— Country Pancakes. 

Bake batter cakes on a large griddle, so as to 
get a number at once. Snread them with butter 
and sugar, and pile up six or more in a plate, 
Cut in quarters when served, 



106 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



560— Peaches and Cream. 

The harder kinds of peaches should be chopped 
to the size of strawberries and mixed with sugar 
two or three hours before the meal. Allow about 
four ounces of sugar to a quart Soft peaclies, 
after peeling, are best only quartered or sliced. 
If admissible, serve them in large glas9 bowls^ 
ornamented with quarters of red or yellow 
peaches placed in order and a pitcher of cream 
with each bowl separately. It served individu- 
ally in saucers, poui' the cream oyer only as they 
are dished up. 



MENU NO. LII.— BALL SUPPER. 



561— Ecg: IiemoiiaUe fur lifty. 

8 quarts of water — a tin milk pail fulL 

3 pounds of sugar — 6 or 7 cupfuls. 

2 dozen lemons. 

2 oranges. 

8 or 10 whites of eggs. 

Shaved or broken ice. 

Grate the rinds of 8 or 10 of the lemons and 
the oranges into a large bowl, using a tin grater, 
and take less or more, according to the size and 
degree of ripeness or greenness of the fruit. 
Scrape off the grated rind that adheres. Put a 
little sugar in the bowl and rub the zest and 
sugar together with the back of a spoon. 
Squeeze in the juice of all, add the sugar and 
some water and then the whites of eggs, and 
beat the mixture till the sugar is dissolved ; put 
in water to make the specified amount and 
strain the lemonade into another vessel contain- 
ing ice. 

When to be served fill a glass three parts full, 
invert another on top, the rims close together, 
and shake up to make the foam. 



563— Plain !Lemonade. 

Three or foui- lemons, according to size, and a 
small cup of sugar to a quart of water. Slice the 
lemons into the water beforehand, and let stand. 
Pui shaved ice in the glasses before filling. 

Clear lemonade can he obtained by filtering it, 
when made, through blotting paper folded to fit 
in a glass funnel 



563— Catawba Cup. 

To each bottle of dry catawba allow two bottles 
of soda water and a quarter pint of curacoa, mix 
in a pitcher, and add ice abundantly. If not con- 
venient to get bottled soda, use water and sugar 
or lemonade to mix with the wine and Uqueur. 



564— Turkey Galantine, or Bonea TarKey in 

Jelly. 

Three different ways of preparing either 
chickens, turkeys or ducks for this purpose have 
been described at Nos. S9, 300 and 465. 

When the boned and stuffed fowl baa been suf- 
ficiently boiled press it, still in the cloth, into a 
pan or mold, and there let it remain with a 
weight on top until cold. Into whatever shape 
it may be, there should be another vessel a size 
larger precisely like it, and the boned turkey or 
chicken, being taken out of the first mold, 
and the cloth taken off and the surface wiped 
clean with a napkin dipped in hot water, is then 
to be placed in the larger one ; the space is then 
filled up with aspic jelly, poured in nearly cold, 
and when set, the mold being dipped a few mo- 
ments in warm water, the galantine can be 
turned out onto its dish and decorated. 

Two fair-sized turkeys, prepared as above, 
either stuffed with forcemeat or with the meat 
of another turkey or chicken, will slice into fifty 
plates. 



dG5— Sandwiches of Potted Rabbit. 

Make baking powder or buttermilk biscuits 
large in diameter, but thin and fiaky, split them, 
spread one-half with butter, the other with pot- 
ted rabbit and place them together again. 



566— Potted Rabbit. 

Potted meats will keep for months if required 
and can be drawn upon as the occasion arises. 

2 small rabbits or 1 large one. 

1 pound of fat bacon. 

1 pound of veal. 

Tlie liver of the rabbits. 

Salt, pepper, and spleen. 

Cut the rabbit in pieces and put it in a stone 
jar; cut the veal and bacon in large dice, mix 
them and add a teaspoonful of mixed mace, 
cloves, and black pepper, and a teaspoonful of 
salt, and fill the spaces between the pieces of 
rabbit. Lay a thin slice or two of bacon on top 
and 1 bay leaf, then cover with a lid of plain 
paste made of flour and water only, set the jar 
in a pan or pot containing water and bake in a 
slow oven 3 or 4 hours. There is no water 
needed in the meat. A greased paper on top 
will keep the paste from burning. 

When done, set the jar away to becoiiio cold, 
pick tho meat from the pieces of rabbit and 
pound them to a paste along with the veal and 
bacon and fat, and if any gravy at the bottom, 
boil down almost dry and mix it in. Taste for 
seasoning. Press solid into small jars or cups, 
and cover the top with the clear part of melted 
bulfer. Keep tightly covered in a cool place. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



107 



567— SandwIcUes of Potted Quail. 

Make rolls, either split or rounded, but flat, 
and place inside a half of a potted quail, pre- 
pared according to the foDowing recipe. 



S6S— Potted Quail. 

1 dozen quaiL 

1 pound ot veal. 

1 pound of fat bacon. 

Seasonings and paste. 

Bone the birds as directed for boning fowls ; a 
penknife may be used, and no great care is re- 
quired, except to get all the meat and not tear 
the sides lo tatters. Out each in two. Chop the 
veal and bacon together into sausage meat, and 
season with a teaspoonful of mixed mace, cloves 
and white pepper, and the same ot salt, and a 
teaspoonful of finely minced lemon rind. 

Select a jar or two small ones that the quail 
may be kept in after cooking, sijread a thin 
layer of the veal and bacon forcemeat on the 
bottom, lay the halves of quail in order on that, 
spread them with a little of the forcemeat and so 
on till all are in, having forcemeat for the top. 
Cover with a thin slice or two of bacon, then 
with a crust of flour and water paste and bake 
by setting the jar in a pan of water in the oven 
for three hours. 

When done take off the crust and drain away 
the fat and gravy and press by placing a small 
plate inside on the meat and a weight on that. 
When cold cover with clarified batter and 
cover tightly to exclude the air. 

In case bacon is not liked in such pottings as 
the two preceding, fresh butter sufficient to 
cover and bake the meat or birds in can be used 
instead. 



569— Smoked Tonsue. 

Smoked reindeer, buffalo or ox-tongues 
should be soaked in water a day or two before 
they are cooked. Boil them about three hours, 
peel off the outside skin, slice very thin, when 
cold, on a large plattei'. Around the edge put a 
border of green pickled peppers and gherkins, 
cut in strips and interspersed with shapes of 
beeis scooped out with a potato spoon and previ- 
ously steeped in vinegar. 



570— Chicken i 



Turkey Salad for a Handed 
Supper. 

6 or 8 fowls or 3 turkeys, or both, for a large 
party. 

12 to 24 heads of celery — according to size. 

1 dozen hard- boiled eggs. 

Salad dressing and olives. 

Boil the fowls until tender and set them away 
to cool. Pick off all the meat and cut it first in j gil and vinegar alternately. 



strips and then across in dice, the smaller the 
better, but never chop it 

Cut the celery stalks lengthwise, also, and 
then in dice not so small as the chicken. Mix 
them, season lightly with -pepper and salt and 
moisten with a sprinkling of oil and vmegar, 
then pour over it in the pan or bowl the salad 
dressing of the annexed recipe. This salad, 
that being ready-mixed, will be placed by the 
spoonful upon the plates along with other 
meats, should be moist enough not to be a com- 
pact paste, as it is when the chicken is mmced 
too fine, yet the dressing must not run like a 
sauce. If the dressing or the salad need thin- 
ning use a cupful of the broth the fowls were 
boiled in, cold, but not ice-cold, lest the butter 
separate. Round up the salad slightly in a flat 
dish or shallow bowl and border with olives and 
quartered eggs, or with shred green lettuce. 



571— Best Salad Dressins. 

This quantity is for salad for a party: 

6 yolks of hard-boiled eggs. 

3 raw yolks. 

J<^ cupful of olive oil. 

}4 cupful melted fresh butter. 

1 cupful of vinegar. 

2 teaspoonf uls of salt. 

1 tablespoonful of made mustard. 

Little pepper-sauce and cayenne. 

Grate the hard-boiled yolks or pound them 
quite smooth in a bowl with the butter, made 
soft by warming, and the raw yolks. Add the 
salt, mustard, cayenne, and then a little oil and a 
little vinegar next, working in first one and 
then the other, a spoonful at a time, until all ot 
the specified amount is m. The bowl should be 
set in ice water. This makes a buttery com- 
pound that may either be mixed with the salad 
material or spread on top. 



573— Poached Tolks for Salad Dressins. 

A considerable saving may be effected when 
preparing for a party, at the season when eggs 
are dear, by separating the eggs raw, taking the 
whites for the many articles that require tnem, 
such as egg lemonade, meringues, kisses, frost- 
ings, frozen punches, white cakes, etc., and 
dropping the yolks into boiling water to poach 
them for salaas and salad dressings, stuffing of 
boned fowls and other uses. 



73— nest Salad Dressing in Small Quantity. 

2 hard boiled yolks. 

1 raw yolk. 
Butter size of an egg. 

2 tablespoonluls of olive oik 
.5 tablespoonf uls of vinegar. 
Salt, made mustard and cayenne. 
Pound the hard boiled yolks and butter to- 
gether warm, add the raw yolk, the seasonings, 



108 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



574— Tliree-Cornered Tarts. 

To be neat and rich and fit for a party supper 
these must be made small, baked dry and have 
a sugar glaze baked ou them. 

Have some stewed apple ready, thick and -witli 
considerable sugar in it— any other kind of jam 
will do as well — and some puff-paste. Roll the 
paste to a thin sheet and cut it in SJ^ inch 
squares, that is about the length of a middle 
finger across. 

Put a teaspoonful of jam in the center and 
fold over so as to make a three-cornered tart 
Eun the paste jagger along the edges to close 
them by cuttiDg off a shred, or pinch them to- 
gether with the fingers. Brush over the tops, 
after placing in the baking pan, with egg and 
water and sprinkle granulated sugar upon them. 
Bake in a slack oven. 



B7B_Paper Cases for Individual Charlottes. 

Procure half a dozen sheets of cap or fine 
book paper, which is like writing paper not 
ruled, and make a pattern for the paper cases by 
fitting a band of paper to the outside of a very 
small tumbler, such as is need for Roman punch, 
or some similar small shape. The band of pa- 
per, when cut to fit, will form a curve. Cut as 
many such pieces as are needed from the sheets, 
and then, placing three or four together, cut 
both top and bottom edges into fringe a quarter 
of an inch or less in depth. Make some corn- 
starch paste very stiff, and paste the ends of the 
bands together, forming cup shapes, then cut 
around the edges, press the fringed bottom edges 
of the cups onto the paste, the fringe bent out- 
ward, and the shapes are made. 



576 — Strawberry Charlottes in Cases for 
Fifty. 
Having prepared 50 paper cases of about the 
capacity of very small tumblers, according to 
the directions in the preceding article ; next bake 
6 sheets of cake of any kind that is suitable to 
roll up, or of the following, which is right in 
quantity for 50 small charlottes. 

3 rounded oupfuis of granulated sugar— 1^ 
pounds. 

15 eggs. 

J^ cup of water. 

4 rounded cupfuls of flour — 18 ouncea 
Separate ttie eggs. Beat the yolks, sugar and 

water rapidly for 10 minutes. 

Have the flour weighed or measured ready. 
Whip the whites perfectly firm. Stir the flour 
into the beaten yolks and the whipped whites 
last. 

Spread thinly on sheets of blank paper not 
greased, and bake in a quick oven about 6 
minutes. 



Careful baking is required, because if dried 
or burnt the cake will break. 

Brush the paper, under side, with water, and 
it can be pulled off the cake. Should any of the 
sheets become too dry to roll or bend in spite of 
care in baking, lay them on top of each other 
after wetting the paper, and let lie so half an 
hour. 

Cut out the pieces of cake by the same paper 
pattern the cakes were cut by, but a trifle 
shorter, and put the lining of cake in the paper 
cases. No bottom of cake is needed, but little 
square pieces can be pushed down inside if 
wished. 

A short time before serving fill the charlottes 
with the cream intended for the purpose. 



577— Strawberry Wliipped Cream for Fifty. 

1 quart of red strawberries. 

3 pints of thick sweet cream. 

1 pound of sugar — 2 cupfuls. 

IJ^ ounces of gelatine — a package. 

Cover the fruit with the eusar in a bowl, 
mash together and rub through a seive. 

Dissolve the gelatine in a cup of millc extra, in 
a small vessel set in a place where it will warm 
gradually. When the gelatine is dissolved put 
the cream into a pail or pan, take the large wire 
egg whisk and whip it to a froth, pour in the 
gelatine, and continue whipping, with the pan 
set on Ice; then add the strawberry pulp or 
syrup, and when it is firm enough, and before it 
is quite set, fill the individual charlottes with it, 
well piled above the edge. 

Cream without fruit, and only flavored with 
strawberry extract, does not need any gelatine. 
See No. 313. 



578--lndian Kiyer Orange Jelly. 

12 large red-fleshed oranges. 

l}4 pints of water— 3 cupfuls. 

1 pound of sugar. 

1 package of gelatine. 

1 lemon — juice only. 

5 whites of eggs. 

Put on the cold water, with everything in it 
except the oranges, and let heat gradually, with 
care not to let it burn, as it is very apt to do at 
first. Pare off the yellow zest of 1 orange and 
throw that in for flavor, not forgetting the lemon 
juice, which is essential. Squeeze enough of the 
oranges that have red meat aad iuice to make 
a quart. 

When the jelly on the fire has boiled about 
15 minutes pour it through the jelly bag and 
pour tbe orange juice through immediately 
after, letting them mix, and run through several 
times, the object being to filter the orange juice 
to brightness by passing it through the coagulated 
white of egg without boiling it If not of good 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



109 



color add coobineaL Can be set in molds or 
served in glasaea or out in diamonda in meringue 
cups, etc. 



Meringue cups for fifty will be made with 15 
whites and a pound and three-quarters of sugar. 



579— Ijemon Butter Drops. 

Make the cake mixture Wo. 442, and drop in 
round cakes on sheets of paper, dredge with 
sugar and Bake. Spread lemon butter between 
two placed together. 



5S0— Liemon Butter, or Paste, or Cheese;:ake, 
or Lieuiuu Honey. 

A world-wide favorite, made of — 
1 cupful of sugar — 8 ounces. 

3 lemons. 

Butter, size of an egg — 3 ounces. 

4 to yolks or 3 whole eggs — not particular. 
Cut the sugar, butter, grated rinds and juice 

into a saucepan and boil, add the yolks and stir 
until it becomes thick. 



5S1— %lliipped Cream Frozen in Glasses. 

For a party supper that takes place at a time 
when the weather is extremely cold, it is easy to 
freeze glasses of variously flavored creams by 
only exposing them to the outer air. Otherwise 
it may be found inconvenient to prepare them in 
this way because of the large amount of room in 
the freezing boxes required. 



583— Coffee Flavored Whipped Cream Frozen. 

1 quart of thick cream. 

1 cuptul of strong black coffee. 

1 cupful of sugar. 

Mix these in a tin pail or deep pan and whip 
with the wire egg-whisk until it is all froth. 
Pile up in stem glasses, freeze and serve in the 
same glasses. See No. !581. 



583— Maraschino Cream Frozen in Glasses. 

1 quart of thick cream. 
1 cupful of maraschino liqueur. 
}4 cupful of sugar. 

Whip to a froth with the wire egg-whisk, pile 
in glasses and freeze. See Na 581. 



cupful grated. 



584— Chocolate Creaui Frozen in Glasses. 

1 quart of thick cream. 

4 ounces of sweet chocolate- 

1 cupful of sugar — 8 ounces. 

1 cupful of milk. 

Vanilla flavoring. 

Sat the milk over the fire with the sugar and 



grated chocolate in it and beat until the choco- 
late is all dissolved, strain it into another vessel 
and let it cool. 

Whip the cream in a pail or pan, set on ice, 
and add the chocolate milk while whipping. 
Flavor with vanilla extract. Heap the whipped 
in stem glasses and freeze as directed in preced- 
ing articles. 



585- Neapolitan Cake. 

Sheets of pound cake mixture baked on jelly- 
cake pans, a good number of them with jelly 
spread between, piled high, the cake trimmed 
and ornamented. 



586— White Mountain Cake. 

Jelly cake sheets like the foregoing kind, with 
cake frosting, the same as made for meringues 
and kisses, spread thickly between the layers 
and on top. Chopped almonds may be mixed in. 



587— Layer Fruit Cake. 

Like the preceding, but minced raisins, cit- 
ron, almonds and currants mixed with the frost- 
ing between the layers. 



588- Tokay Grape Ice. 

5 pints of red Tokay grapes — 4 pounds. 
3 cupfuls of water. 

3 cupfula of sugar. 

1 lemon and 1 orange. 

4 whites of eggs. 

Select about a fourth of the grapes, to be 
dropp'id whole into the ice at last Scald the 
rest in a syrup made of the sugar and part of 
the water, and rub the pulp through a strainer, 
with the syrup, and pour the remaining water 
over the skins while pressing. Add the juice, 
only, of the orange and lemon, freeze in a freezer 
the usual way, and when nearly done add the 
whites of eggs whipped firm, also the raw grapes, 
and finish the freezmg. 



589— Hickory Nut Ice Cream. 

1 pound of hickory-nut kernels. 

2 cups of sugar. 

1 quart of cream. 

2 tablespoonfuls of sugar burnt brown. 

Pick over the kernels carefully for pieces of 
shell, then pound them in a mortar with a little 
sugar and water added. 

Set 2 spoonfuls of sugar over the fire without 
water and let it melt and brown. Pour in a little 
water to dissolve it, then add it to the cream 
with the sugar and nut paste and freeze in ihe 
usual manner. 

The two foregoing ices may be packed in brick 
molds in layers, put down and frozen firm. 



ilO 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



590— Richest Fruit Cake or Black Cake. 

Prepare the fruit first, 

3}^ pounds of seedless raisins. 

3M pounds of clean dry currants. 

\}4 pounds of citron, shred fine. 

3 ounces of mixed ground apices — cinnamon, 
cloves, nutmej^ and mace. 

1 email cupful of burnt sugar coloring. 

1 small cupful of rebelled molasses. 

1 small cupful of brandy. 

1 tablespoonful of extract of lemon. 

A small addition of almonds, nuts, candy, or 
cut figs can be made if wished. 

Then mix the cake batter: 

14 ounces of sugar. 

14 ounces of butter. 

10 eggs. 

18 ounces of flour. 

Mix up same as pound cake ; after the flour ie 
all in add the 3 ounces of spice, then the caramel 
coloring, molasses, brandy and lemon extract. 
The batter M'ill then be quite thin. Dust the 
fruit well with flour and mix it in. 

Line two cake molds with buttered paper and 
divide the mixture into them. Set the molds in 
the middle of a sheet or two of greased paper, 
gather it up around them and tie with twine, 
thus wrapping the molds in paper to shield them 
from too much heat and avoid burning the fruit. 
Bake from 3 to 3K hours in a slack oven. 



The black cake above should be at least 3 or S 
days old before it is cu t. The amount of cake 
batter only serves to hold the fruit together, but, 
it ought to be mentioned, the quantity of the 
pound cake mixture in it may be doubled and all 
the other ingredients remain the same and it will 
still be a very rich black cake. 



591— Tea for a large Party. 

To make what tea-drinkers call a real good 
cup of tea takes nearly a teaspoonful of green 
tea for each cup, or 4 teaspoonf uls to 5 cups of 
water, the leaves absorbing 1 cup. But then 
there is a second drawing that brings this out. 

Four ounces of tea contain SB teaspoonfuls or 
2 cupfuls, rounded up. Using mixed tea, and 
allowing time to draw 2 cupfuls of tea, is suffi- 
cient to put into 40 cups of water, or a quarter- 
pound of tea to 3J.< gallons of water, whioli is the 
same thing in other words. 

The best way to make tea for a number is to 
have the water boiling in an urn and put the tea 
in a box made of perforated tin and drop it into 
the water, which must then be stopped from 
boiling. 



59a-WIilte Coffee 

Is made with coffee that, instead of being 
browned, is only baked to a slight yellow color 



and is not ground, or at most the berries are 
only bruised, and is made with one-half milk 
and one-half water. It requires twice as much 
coffee as the ordinary. 

For 8 cups take : 

2 cupfuls of light baked^coffee berries. 

4 cupfuls of boiling water. 

5 cupfuls of boiling milk. 

The berries may have been parched before, 
but when wanted, heat them over again and 
throw them hot into the boiling water. Close 
the lid and let stand to draw for }^ hour, then 
add the boiling milk through a strainer. 

When the milk is first set on to boil, put in a 
tablespoonful or two of sugar to prevent burn- 
ing at the bottom. Serve sugar with the coffee 
as usual, and, it for a party, a spoonful of 
whipped cream in each cup. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. 



593--lcinsr and Ornamentmsr Cakes. 

Fruit cakes always need two coats of icing. 
Common glaze or sugar only, melted with white 
of egg, may do for the first, and if to be very 
nice, mix some minced almond in it. The first 
coat will dry in an hour in a warm place. 

Cake icing is the same as the star kiss mixture 
or meringue, at No. 392, only it is surer to beat 
sugar and whites together in a bowl, and pow- 
dered sugar makes the smoothest icing. Put 
into a deep bowl two whites and a cupful of su- 
gar, which makes a stiff paste, and beat them 
with a wooden paddle fifteen minutes. Add 
some flavoring extract To smooth over the 
cake cut a strip of writing paper an inch wide 
Bud, stretching it between the hands, draw the 
edge over the top of the cake. 

To make a border put some of the icing into a 
cornet made of writing paper, and pinned. Clip 
of the point, and the pipe of icing that is pressed 
out can be laid on the edge of the cake like a 
braid. Leaves and flowers can be bought ready 
made. 



Cut a sheet of note paper into strips two 
inches wide, and double them lengthwise, to 
make the width of a knife blade. Cut the double 
edge into fringe a quarter inch deep. Move the 
edges of the paper one higher than the other, 
and the fringe will be bowed out instead of lying 
flat. Fasten the edge that way with a touch of 
corn starch paste made very stiff. Then roll 
the fringed pieces of paper around a pencil and 
fasten the end with paste— if to be slipped over 
the ends of frogs' legs ; but if for cutlet bones of 
uncertain size wrap them just before serving, 
and a touch of the very stiff paste will hold them 
in place. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



ill 



596— Potted Lake Herrinir or Cisco. 

Take one dozen small lake herring, Cisco or 
trout, or enougli to nearly fill the jar they are to 
tie cooked and kept in, dresa and wipe with a 
dry cloth; strew a little salt in and over them, 
and let them lie over night ; then wipe again with 
a dry cloth and season with two teaspoufuls of 
white pepper, one teaspoonful o( ground cinves 
and a level teaspoonful of cayenne and ground 
mace together. Then put the fish, with their 
hacks down, in the Jar, crowded close together. 
Melt a sufficient quantity of fresh butter, probably 
three pounds, and when it has settled pour the 
clear part over the fish, enough to cover them. 
Put a greased paper and a lid of some sort on 
top of the jar, set it in a pan of water and bake 
it so in a slow oven about four hours. Keep in 
the same jar, always covered with butter, in a 
cool place. 



596- Curries. 

A curry may be described as a brown stew 
with curry powder added to it. 

Cut up a chicken, veal, lamb or whatever is to 
be curried, and fry the pieces in cutter until the 
outside of them is a very light brown, and while 
frying sprinkle over a teaspoonful of curry 
powder. Then put in a minced onion, some salt 
and a little water or broth, cover with the lid and 
simmer until the meat is tender. Take the 
pieces out on a hot dish, pour oft the grease from 
the pan and make gravy in it and thicken in the 
usual way and pour it over the meat. It is cus- 
tomary to serve dry boiled rice with a curry, 
and a border to the dish may be made with it 
and the curry dished in the center. 



597— Pressed Corned Beef. 

After boiling the corned beef two hours take 
it out of the water — which will be too salt when 
reduced to use for jelly — cut in pieces size of 
eggs and simmer it about two or thiee hours 
more, using fresh water if no clear broth is to 
be had, and only just enough to cover it, that it 
may stew down rich enough to set in jelly 
when cold. Pour it into a deep pan when done 
and push a gravy strainer or colander down into 
it; the liquor will rise in the strainer, and the fat 
can be skimmed oil. Put a plate on top of the 
meat after that and a weight, and let it get cold 
with the jelly in it. 

The meat, having been so cut in pieces, will 
be evenly mixed, the fat with the lean, all through. 

Another good way is to roll up streaiced pieces 
and tie with twine. When they are boiled very 
tender take them on a dish and . remove the 
strings, lay them in a long mold in two layers 
and press them together with enough of the 
liquor about to fill up the spaces with jelly. 



59S--He:i(I Cheese and BraTVJi. 

Much the same as pressed corned beef. The best 
or the variety called brawn is partly corned before 
boiling. Where it would take a week in pickle 
to make salt pork of it, let the head to be made 
into head cheese lie in it only 3 days. The 
pickle or brine recipe is at No. 106. 

Wash the head and boil it 2 hours. Cool it, 
take out the bones and cut the meat in pieces. 
Season it with sage, a little salt, and a good al- 
lowance of pepper. Strain the liquor it was first 
boiled in, put the pieces in again and simmer 2 
hours longer. Press in a pan, or else put it into 
a muslin bag, tie and press in a pan with the 
honor surrounding it. 



599— Pork Sausase. 

Twice as much lean as fat. To fi pounds of 
the chopped meat allow a heaping teaspoonful 
of salt, the same, of powdered sage, and a heap- 
ing teaspoonful of pepper and a cup of water. 



600— Tomatii Ketchup. 

^ bushel of tomatoes, or 2.5 pounds. 

1 bay leaf. 

3/< head of garlic. 

-S pints of vinegar 

1.^ cupful of salt 

I tablespoonful of cayenne. 

1 ounce of bruised peppercorns. 

1 of blades of mace — i tablespooufule. 

1 of cloves — same. 

Wash the tomatoes and cut out the green 
part around the stem, cook them at the side of 
the range in a br ght kettlo or pan and a lid on, 
in their own juice and steam for about an hour, 
and the spices, garlic, bay leaf and pepper vnth 
them. Mash them through a colander to re- 
move the skins, then put the pulp through a 
seive that will not let the seeds go throu^di. Add 
the vimgar to help it through, for the siraining 
is rather tedious; then boil it down to half. It 
is difficult to keep it from scorching at the bot- 
tom. Use a broad wouden paddle to keep it 
stirred up with, and make the catsup at a time 
when a slow fire can be kept for it. Bottle it 
warm, cork down and seal. 



OBSERVATIONS ON TABLE MANNERS. 



Fro7n the Chicago Herald. 
More people receive invitations to dinners 
and receptions that know how to accept them. 
At least that is the opinion of a Chicago lady, 
who, to cancel her social obligations, has en- 
tertained very largely during the last year. It 
is a cruel blow to upper-tendom, and all the 
more lamentable because of its truth. Over- 
eating and immoderate drinking are the most 
common forms of bad breeding, and the raven- 



112 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



onsness with which some of the swells gorge 
themselves at dinnei- parties and luncheons 
■would malie a cannibal blush. Ladies who 
look as spiritual as though they lived on 
dew and suulight order the entire menu, 
and afterward gorge themselves with cream 
and cake, loading their pockets with the fruits 
and confections which they cannot devour. Pre- 
cious young men are frequently seen draining 
the glasses of wine which some waiter has left 
on the sideboard for half a dozen guests. It is 
cusiomary for the host to leave a supply of cigars 
in the gentlemen's room for the pleasure of such 
guests aa may soon find the hasty compliments 
of the parlor tedious. One such thoughtful 
host was somewhat nonplussed, on going to the 
guests' chamber for a quiet smoke with a friend, 
to find that 300 choice Habanas had been appro- 
priated by the gentlemen who honored him with 
their company. 

let all guests are not so booiish, and for the 
edification of the timorous the following obser- 
vations are offered : The spirit of social eti- 
quette in olden days consisted in a more marked 
regard for ostentation and ceremony. Modern 
hospitality is remarkable for simplicity, avoiding 
all unnecessary display of plate, raiments, and 
the manner of entertainment. It is customary 
to have cards presented to each gentleman sig- 
nifying the lady who is to have his escort. This 
saves the ladies a good deal of embarrassment, 
as it is never proper for her to descend to the 
dining-room alone, and even though her neglect 
may result from an oversight, it is none the less 
an annoyance, which apologies only increase. 
When dinner is aunounced the gentleman offers 
his left arm, when possible, to keep the lady next 
to the wall. In entering the dining-room, if the 
door-way is not wide enopgh for both to pass 
abreast, the gentleman enters first taking care 
not to turn his back to his company ; butswing- 
in,; himself in with a graceful bow and offering 
the other arm. This gives the lady more free- 
dom in managing her train. But on no other 
occasion should a gentleman precede a lady. 
The lady of the house should always be es- 
corted to the table by the most honored guest 
The gentlemen of the house are the last to enter 
the room. If the company is small the carving 
is done by the host No more difiicult task than 
that ol doing the honors gracefully could be im- 
posed. No comments should be made by the 
guests, and apologies from his wife or daughter 
are in very poor taste, as well as aggravating. 

When the affair is conducted on a grand scale 
the carving is done by the servant in the pantry, 
and the table attendants bring in the plates on a 
silver tray. They also pass round the table with 
such vegetables or table luxuries as are not 
served individually. The table is tastefully 
dressed with fiowers and desserts, in which case 
the cloth is not removed. Great display is never 



indicative of anything but shoddiness. Good 
taste suggest simplicity and a harmony of sur 
roundings and circumstances. Insufficiency of 
hght, turning off part of the burners, making 
the dining-room fire just before the company 
enter and allowing it to go out before their de- 
parture, is certainly a sign of economy, but 
may be instrumental in giving the host a sordid 
reputation. The guests who can find no other 
topics for conversation than passing compli- 
ments on the dishes, viands and wines are cer- 
tainly to be pitied. The lady of the house is 
supposed to use some tact in leaving the table 
shortly after the dessert is finished. Some hints 
given to the ladies at either side are telegraphed 
down the sides, or it is quite proper for ladies 
who are in the midst of earnest conversation to 
follow the first withdrawal as soon as it is po- 
litely convenient Many of the younger gentle- 
men, and those averse to smoking or the influ- 
ence of the bowl, retire with the ladies. In that 
case coffee is served in the parlor earlier than 
usual. When the majority, with the hostess, re- 
tire, all gentlemen rise and remain standing un- 
til the last lady has disappeaaed. 

Ceremonials differ at different entertainments, 
but there are some formuiai that are always to 
be observed. At large dinners soup and fish 
are never called for a second time. When asked 
for a choice of cuts the guest should always 
specify, and when inquiry is made as to whether 
the light or dark meat of poultry is pre- 
ferred, a call for both is not strictly elegant, as 
the great number to be served may exhaust the 
fowl too soon. If the delighted feaster will 
avoid the embarrassment of having to leave 
some course untouched, he will leave the crav- 
ings to be satisfied on the dessert 

In serving, the sauces, vegetables and appe- 
tizers are brought in on separate dishes, or at 
least kept distinct, and no cultured person will 
hurt the taste by mixing them. No plate should 
be loaded nor should anybody be pressed to try 
a certain dish or have a new supply. If he is an 
intelligent individual he best knows how to show 
deference to his stomach, and if he does not, it 
is well for him that some one else exercises 
that civility. While it is often impossible to 
wait for the entire board to finish a course it is 
well to delay until your immediate neighbors 
have finished before sending away the plate. At 
a small company guests should wait until all are 
served before beginning to eat, unless otherwise 
requested by the host In that case the guest 
can display the nicety of culture by sip- 
ping water, arranging the small table furni- 
ture, as the two knives and forks, pepper and 
salt cruets, wine glasses, water jug, napkin 
holder, or prepare his fond. It is different at a 
larger affair, where couples begin the course as 
soon as served. Crackers, cubes of bread and 
celery are taken with the soup. Celery is a 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



treacherous vegetable, and unlesa masticated 
noiselessly will brand the consumer. Some very 
polite people never serve it, excepting when 
chopped up and dressed; then it comes with the 
entree. If the knives are steel, fish is always 
eaten with a small fork and a cube of bread, 
which may be five inches long and one and a 
half thick. The steel will corrode on touching 
the fish. But even when plated cutlery is used, 
the knife is frequently dispensed with. 

So much has been said about the vulgarity of 
eating with the knife that little that is new can 
be offered here. The knife was certainly in- 
tended for cutting purposes, yet a millionaire, 
who may take precedence in financial circles, is 
denominated a boor in the society that he thus 
offends, and inwardly detested by the urbane. 
But a gentleman is never so much a gentleman 
as when he has a knife and fork in his hands 
and knows how to use them. Filling the mouth 
too full to permit conversation, drinUing and 
eating noisily, staring around the table over the 
edge of a cup or glass while drinking, blowing 
hot dishes, pouring tea and coffee in a saucer 
and getting the hiccoughs are vulgarisms almost 
intolerable to the refined. 

It is often a delicate matter to know just what 
dishes should be eaten with a fork and spoon. 
Usually all vegetables are taken to the mouth 
with a fork, and also as many side dishes as pos- 
sible. Peas, beans, succotash, curry, creams, 
ices, puddings, custards and fancy pastry are 
eaten with a spoon. Pie and melon are always 
mastered with a fork. The best authority asserts 
that all articles of diet should be taken from the 
side of the spoon rather than from the end. And 
the same jud^e decrees that the spoon shall be 
filled by moving it away from the individual 
rather than toward him. 

In eating the lips should always be Kept 
closed. The spoon should be removed from the 
cup and placed in the saucer before drinking ; 
nor should it be allowed to knock against the 
side of the cup in stirring. Bread, cake, rolls, 
etc. should always be broken and liept on the 
tablecloth near the plate. It is perfectly 
proper to pick a bone and take corn in 
the fingers; but care should be used against 
soiling the mouth and hands. Any dis- 
agreeable article that may be found on the 
plate should be quietly ignored without call- 
ing the attention of guests or host. When fin- 
ished the knife and fork are laid on the plate 
parallel to one another, with the handles at the 
right, the spoon placed in the cup and egg-shells 
crushed on the plate. It is also one of the nice- 
ties of refined society that the table be left as 
neat as possible. Every one is under a social 
obliKatiou to contribute to the conversation, 
mirth and coni;euiality of the table, while the 
lion should be amiable enough not to monopo- 
lize^all the attention. 



A LONG-FELT WANT 



I have had occasion to travel considerably 
during the past year, and at half the houses I 
stopped the biscuits were raw at the bottom, and 
either as heavy as lead or yellow as a pumnkin 
with soda, while the meat was swimming in 
grease. Why, it is enough to give a razor-back 
hog, a sheep-killing dog or a Bengal tiger dys- 
pepsia. And then the coffee — how delectable. 
What it is mafie of I have not the slightest idea; 
but, whatever it is, it has not the slightest kin- 
ship to genuine Eio or the delioiuusly flavored 
Java. Horace Greeley visited the South soou 
after the war, and the only criticism his kina 
heart made was in these memorable 
words: "The South needs SO, 000 cooks." It 
would not have been prudent for Mr. Greeley to 
have made a visit to the South before the war, 
but if he had, and been entertained by ^0,0UO 
farmers and planters, he would have said: "The 
South has 20,000 of the best cooIls in the world!" 
Southerners always educated their daughters, 
and when these daughters married they made 
their home attractive in various ways, and espe- 
cially in the cooking department They educated 
negro women in the art of cooking, and allowed 
them to do nothing else, consequently the cook- 
ing was excellent. But the abolition of slavery 
also abolished good cooking, except as to the 
negro women who were educated by their 
mistresses in the culinary art, and 
the mistresses themselves. I heard a 
gentleman make a very sensible remark 
recently, "Vanderbilt, Peabody and Sla- 
ter have given millions of dollars to the 
cause of education in the South, and I honor 
them as great benefactors of our section ; but if 
I had several millionsto give away, I would es- 
tablish all over the South schools in which the 
act of cooking would be taught. In doing this I 
would be subserving the cause of morality and 
religion, as well as of civilization and humanity. 
Properly-cooked food causes health, andperfeot 
health is conducive to good temper, cheerful- 
ness, kind feeling, eflioient and capable work, 
mental and physical, while badly cooked food 
produces indigestion; indigestion causes bad 
health in every part of the human system, 
fretfulness, hatefulness, discontent, poor menial 
and physical labor, and renders life a curse 
to hiniselt and all those around him. A man 
cannot be a true Christian, in all that means, if 
he is fed upon badly cooked food all his days. 
The great need of the country is good cooks and 
plenty of them. Young ladies should beiustructed 
in the art, both at school and at home. It is time 
the country was awakening to this great need. 
A well-to-do parent spenils ?500 to give his 
daughter a musical eduoatijn, and another $5 00 



114 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



to bny her a piano, and nine chances to one she 
never plays oa it a year after her marriage. If 
that S:i,uUO were spent in sjiving her a practical 
and theoretical knowledge of cooldng, it would 
be far better for her and infinitely better for her 
futui'e husband and children." The man who 
made these remarks is married, and has three 
beauliful daughters— "hence these tears." — 
Correspondent Nashville (Tenn.) American. 



SOCIETY'S FAVORITE FLORAL GEMS. 



There is probably no metropolis in the 
■n'orld, says the New York Star, where the beau- 
tiful iu flowers is more sought for than in this 
citv where the society belle would as soon face 
a water famine as a dearth m the supply of her 
favorite bouquets, composed of the richest, 
rarest and most expensive products of the botan- 
ical kingdom. According to the statements of a 
number of the leading ilorists, there is a wanton 
extravagance in the fragrant productions of the 
nursery or hot house, for of late even a private 
parlor entertainment is considered as nothing if 
the choicest buds and buuquets are not strewn 
around in profusion. For the purpose of learn- 
in" something of the demand for the beauties of 
the garden, a Star reporter called upon one of 
the leading florists of the city. That gentleman 
is of a decided poetic turn of mind, and the mo- 
ment the subject was mentioned he began by 
saying : 

'■Flowers are like children, sir; symbols of 
love, nature's offspring, and the jewels of God. 
To be without them would be like life on a bar- 
ren island He who loves not flowers cannot 
love children. Nothing will refine our little 
ones more than their early introduction to flow- 
ers. " 

"I came rather," said the reporter, "to inquire 
as to the styles in flowers, their prices, and the 
demand for them." 

"Tiie styles vary like everything else, and what 
is worn nieiitifuUy this week is cast aside the 
next," said the florist. 

"Are there not some flowers that are always in 
demand?" was asked. 

"Yes, yon can dispose of purs lilies or large 
red roses at any time, and like everything else, 
iho scarcer they are of course the dearer they 
get to be. Let me show you a specimen. Bes- 
sie, bring that bouquet ordered by that actress." 

The bouquet was a gem, a marvel of artistic 
skill. In the center was a magnificent lily, sur- 
rounded by rosebuds and lilies of the valley. 

"Look at that lily, " said the botanical scientist, 
throwing himself into an attitude of extreme 
admiration. "Is it not a beauty? Tall, stately 
and almost transparent. Look at those rosebuds. 
Are they not charming? Oh, it is a pity to think 
that they must wither and dit:. That bouquet, 



sir, is to be presented at the footlights to one of 
our leading actresses to-night " 

"How much does such a bouquet cost?" in- 
quired the reporter. 

"A few years ago a gem like that would have 
cost at least $100. To-day I can afford to make 
it up for S.50. You want to know why it is that 
the prices of flowers have fallen so much. Well, 
I'll tell you. The secret is that I grow all ray 
flowers right in the rear of these premises. It I 
was compelled to purchase flowers from any 
botanist, why of course I could not afford to sell 
them so cheap. Within the past four or five 
years all descriptions of flowers have fallen in 
price." 

"I understand you made the first bouquet that 
was presented to Mrs. Langtry, the Jersey Lily, 
on her arrival in this country?" said the reporter. 
"How much did that cost?" 

"It cost $1.50," was the answer. A few years 
ago it would have sold for ?f300. There were 
three large letters in the center resting on a bed 
of roses. Then there were two borders of 
smaller li ies of the choicest kind, while the out- 
side border was woven into Mrs. Langtry's 
name. I think, without exception, it was the 
most artistic piece of workmanship that ever 
passed through my hands," 

"Might I inquire who j)reh,onfed the bouquet to 
Mrs. Langtry?" 

"It would not be professional to give the name, 
but it was a very prominent citizen," whispered 
the florist. 

"What do those bouquets the ladies wear on 
their bosom cost — I mean the choicest?" queried 
the reporter. 

"That depends upon what they are composed 
of," said the florist, "I have a number of stand- 
ing orders from some of the richest families up- 
town to supply them daily with small bouquets, 
which average from $3 to $5 each. You would 
be astonished at the quantity of daisies and 
violets we sell for the same purpose, so that the 
beauties of the field, which you can gatlier at 
will in summer, cannot be bought for less than 
$5. Apropos of these sentiments, the following 
lines are expressive of the association of joy and 
grief just referred to : 

Flowers are the gentlest emblem 

We wear upon the heart ; 

With flowers we crown the victor. 

The queens of song and art. 

With flowers we speed the parting 

And greet the coming friend ; 

Enhanced by every fragrance, 

Our friendship's vows we send. 

Place flowers upon the bier, 

'i'he wreath upon the breast ; 

Then leave the cue we held so dear 

Among the flowers to rest. 
"Is there any particular flower that is the 
favorite at this season of the year?" hJ was 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



115 



"Yes; here are some jacqueminot roses," he 
said. "They are the favorites just at present, 
aiul are in great demand. The 'Jack' rose is a 
very delicate creature, and, although I grow, 
nurse and care for them myself, I cannot possibly 
sell them under SI each. Formerly they used to 
cost as high as $3 and $5 apiece. You have no 
idta of the immense sums of money that are ex- 
expended yearly m this city on flowers, and I am 
free to admit that there is a great extravagance 
displayed. You can go to the Academy of Music 
on any gala night and reclion the price of the 
flowers worn by the thousands of dollars." 

"Is there any change in the style of wedding 
flowers this season ?" 

"Nothing particular," answered the florist, "ex- 
cept that for weddings floral displays are not at 
all what they used to be, notwithstandiug the 
great reduction in prices. " 

"How about funeral supplies?" 

"There is a marked falling off m the demand 
for funeral floral offeriogs. We malie most of 
our bouquets this winter for street wear, and in 
my mind there is nothing can compare with a 
bunch of bright roses for the fair-complexioned: 
the dark jacqueminot for the brunette Then 
you have the Aiarshal Neil, the mermaid and 
the beautifiil Malmaison, and the simple, but 
magnificent, pear! defan — all of which coat from 
«1 tollO." 

CURIOSITIES OF OLD COOK BOOKS. 



One thing that it is perfectly plain to be 
seen is that there has always been an insur- 
mountable difliculty in finding suitable names 
for the cook's dishes after they were made, ami, 
bad as the corrupted French terms are which 
constitute tue modern absurdities of bills of fare, 
could some experienced gourmand of a hundred 
years ago awake, like Kip Yan Winkle, and go 
about to break his fast at the public eating 
houses he o .uld be just as unintelligible whi:e 
employing only the terms that were in common 
use among the housewives of his youthful days. 
He would not, perhaps, call for "an Indian devil," 
that not being a strictly uuoommon article, al- 
though he would have the satisfaction of seeing 
this one served up on toast, for it is a piece of 
meat made red hot with chutney, cayenne and 
walnut ketchup; nor "a wet devil," which is not 
necessarily as mad as the traditional wet hen, 
for it is only a broil with a hot and peppery 
sauce poured over it; or "a dry devil," a very 
proper and orthodox affair beautifully grilled 
over the coals, without a drop of moisture other 
than hot butter to bathe io. These three were 
well known to the novelists of our grandfather's 
time. But ho might oal for "dumpokht," a dish 
of stuffed Idd mentioned in the Arabian Nights, 
but modernized to mean a hare cooked 
with almonds and raisins, or "mumbled rabbit^," 
which is minced rabbit meat stirre4 with eggs 



over the tire like scrambled brains; or some 
"ked,.^eree," a mixture of minced cold meat, hard 
boiled eg^s and cooked rice all scrambled to- 
gether over the fire, and different from "saltna- 
gnndi," because the latter consists of minced 
meat, tongue and eggs served cold and orna- 
mentally, which he mii^ht have in place of a 
salad, or even an "Indian kabob," v/hich no odo 
would preteud was a thine in too common de- 
mand, altbought it is only a skewer full of little 
mutton steaks with sliced apples strung on be- 
tween each one, seasoned with turmeric and cay- 
enne, fried in butter and served with rice. "Ke- 
bobbed mutton" would take more time and 
trouble to prepare, as it needs roasting, being a 
loin sliced down to the bone and stuffing inserted 
iiithecu:s, but if, when they had ke bobbed it, 
it had not been kebobbed enough, be could send 
it back and make them kebob it some more. 

As for ve;;etables, he might demand "fregahead 
greens" that are shut in a saucepan with batter 
and onions, and cooked so without water, and 
bread different from other people's would have 
been "tadge," a sort of graham flour short-cake 
with'iut any "rising" in it, baked in a skillet on 
top of the stove. 

A number of bills of fare might thus be made 
up of articles that would have a tendency to 
drive the restaurant men to the verge of distrac- 
tion, as they understand scarcely anything but 
■ French. At one time it might be "pereqne 
turkey," not like the common, with cran- 
berry sauce, but stuck full of trufBes, 
steeped in wine over night and roasted next 
day; "a pupton of pigeons," a sort of pie, 
or rather a "torrine" of pigeons, having bread 
stuffing for the bottom antj top crust; "a dune- 
lem of veal," minced veal and mushrooms in 
brown gravy, on toast; "pod(U'iesof beef," which 
are fried patties with beef filling; "gobbets of 
beef," stewed beef thickened with vegetables 
and rice; "sansartees mutton," curry of mutton 
on skewers, or"bobotee;" another curry of meat 
and almonds baked. "China chilo" might be re- 
ferred to the editor of the new Chinese news- 
paper, to see it it be genuine Chinese. It has 
the nredominant L in it anyway, and besides that 
is made of minced mutton, onions, lettuce and 
green peas simmered together anu served in a 
border of rice. For sauces and relishes there 
are "aristocratique sauce," a mixture of walnut 
ketchup and port wine, and "bailaohony," made 
of pounded shrimps, ginger and onions. 

That fine cook, good old Mrs. Adjective, has 
left us an entirely different assortment, among 
which "disguised love," a calf's head coated an 
inch thick outside with Btuffiug and then baUed, 
if not more misleading than "bombarded veal," 
which, so far from meaidnp; a cannonaded calf, 
is but stuffed veal cut like kebobbed rauton and 
boiled spinach crammed into the gaps, then 
baked with paste over the dish, or "surpriBed 



116 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



rabbits," which are, in fact, surprised at nothing, 
although the diner?, may be, finding the meat of 
the r.ibbits has been removed, r- dueed to a paste 
and aeasoned, and plastered on the carcass asain 
in the original form and then browned. "Turkey 
in a hurry" in this case has no reference to a 
turkey travel ug across lots just before Thanks 
giv'ng, nor has "pu led turi»ey" the meaning 
that seems ao obvious after the bird lias been 
caught. On the contrary, tliey were regularly 
tinished dishes that m gl.t be called for at any 
public bouse, just like "jugged liare," a hare cut 
up and cooked bv baking m a jarclo ely covered, 
or "snipes in Burtont," ba! ed in a p e like a pup- 
ton of 1 igeons, with the crust of bread =tufiiug. 
"Cropped heads," "green caps" and "light 
wigs," if they were inquired for at any of our 
bon-ton restaurants would probably lead to the 
inquirer being carried to a barber's shop, but it 
was not always thus. Cropped heads are stuffed 
Laddock'a heads, breaded and fried; green caps 
are greening apples, carefully baked and a cap 
of frosting placed on top, and light wigs are 
light batter cakes; we call them "flannel calies," 
but they had the old name when white pow- 
dered wigs were worn "Cats' tongues" were 
eaten then as now. They are, however, only a 
variety of tlie cakes called lady fingers. Our lady 
of the bombarded veal exhibits the ruling pas- 
sion to the last, and gives us "a grateful pud- 
ding" for a benedicti'.m. Still, as one can be 
sure of notliing in the names, this may mean 
only that it will be a grate full if thrown into the 
fire. For "a Scotch woodcock" mi,'ht be bought 
at any season without refi-rence to the laws for 
the protection of game, it being as innocent of 
meat as a Welsh rabbit, being, in fact, a iiile of 
anchovy toast with cream sance poured over it, 
as far from the thing hinted at as a Devonshire 
squab pie, which has not the slightest relation- 
ship to a pie of young pigeons. "Between two 
stools we coma to the ground," eays the old 
proverb. In this manner we have not now a 
distinctive name for a ens ard pie. It is bad 
enou.;h for ti.e common comprehension for the 
Frencb to call it a "flan," but not a whit more 
strange than the old English name "downset," 
and while calling everything a cream, even 
fried craam and cream fritters, we have forgot- 
ten the old word "fraze," belonging especially 
to articles like almond porridge, to be 
cut when cold and fried, and if placed in fan- 
like order in a dish called "palm-tree pudding." 
Not that the names of puddings were always in- 
telligible, for, while a reason may be found for 
"qualiing pudding," seeing that it consists of 
custard, boiled in a mold, and is quite shaky on 
its foundations, it is not so clear why "fun pud- 
ding" should be named so. It is a dish of sliced 
apples, with jam on top, and an arrowroot cus- 
tard to fill up, and baked. It must be gues ed 
where the fun comes in. Perhaps it is with the 
"Jersey wonders," which, like other wonders, as 



a prominent actress is showing, will never cease, 
although they may have new names. These are 
crullers, or fried cakes. Speaki:igof name^, how- 
ever, "Michael Angelo pudding" is quite an im- 
posing designation, and,whenit is desired to know 
what sort of pudding that great man delighted 
in it is found to be a cheese caUe made of cream 
and baked in a dish lined with fine bread crumbs, 
and a Mi:ton pudding is a rich bran ly custard 
with sponge cake crumbled in it and boiled in a 
m jld, wliich, it is to be hoped, does not tend to 
scandalize the blind poet; and "Hannah More's 
pudding" is a delicate sort of plum nudding like 
that one still known as "Eve's. "Polka pudding" 
is quite a m'tdern affair and quite interesting, it 
being a hollowed- out sponge cake filled with ice- 
cream, the top put on, brandy put over and set 
on fire, in which blazing condition it is waltzed 
into the dining-room, followed very naturally by 
"polonaise cake," and, for fear these should not 
please every guest, there is another pudding of 
the lemon cream pie sort that has not a word to 
Its name but general satisfaction. " 



TOOTHPICKS. 



Imagine a lady in faultless attii'e, handsome 
and admirable, with a tootnpick in her mouth. 
The spectacle is not pleasing. Or imagine a din- 
ner party, the last course of which consists of 
toothpicks handed around by the waiters and 
then applied by the whole company. The sight 
is perfectly unpleasant. Every civilized man, 
woman and child has the right to use a tooth- 
pick, but have they the right to use toothpicks 
to the discomfort of others? And to fine organi- 
zations the visible use of the toothpick is a source 
of disgust. A man who uses a toothpick in pub- 
lic shows either that he is not aware of the an- 
noyance which he gives to others or he deties 
good manners and prefers to be set down indeli- 
cate and gross. The same rule applies w th 
double force to woman, for women are the nat- 
ural and conventional guardians of good nian- 
nera. When sensible men are in doubt on a 
matter of politeness or propriety they consult a 
lady. What, then, can be said of a lady who 
carries a toothpick in her mouth? She might as 
well rinse her mouth or brush her teeth in pub- 
lic. 

The truth is that the associations of a tooth- 
picl; are necessarily indelicate, for the toothpick 
reminds one of bad teeth or food particles held 
i[i tho wrong place. The toothpick is, therefore, 
a toilet article, and ranlis with the toothbrush, 
the nail cleaner or the earspoon. These articles 
have to be used, but not in public. Every hand 
is marred by unclean finger-nails, but tne naiis 
ought not tj be cleaned in public. Nor should 
teeth be brushed or picked in pnblc. In l.otel 
lobbies there are always men — not really gentle- 
men — and, alas! occasionally women, with a 
toothpick in their mouth. Quite likely these 
same persona eat with their knives and cut tlieir 
finger-nails at the dinner table. But in this 
matter their example is not commendable. 



WHAT SHALL WE HAVE 

FOR 

DINNER?" 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



119 



HERALD (BOOKING SGHOOL 

MENUS. 



MENU No. I.— DINNER. Page 5. 

New England Boiled Corned Beef. 

Boiled Salt Pork. 

Potatoes. Turnips. Beets. Parsnips. 

Carrots. Onions. Cabbage. 

Apple Dumplings Cooked in Sauce. 

Tapioca Jelly with Cream. 

Sugar Cakes. 

MENU No. II —SUPPER. Page 7. 

Cracked Wlieat. Mush and Milk. 

Rechauffe of Beef, Veal or Mutton. 

Dish of Cold Meat. Potato Salad. 

French Rolls and Butter. 

Stewed Fruit. 

MENU No. IV.— DINNER. P»g9 11. 

SOUP. 
Celery Cream. 

FISH. 
Boiled Salmon Steak. 
HoUandaise Potatoes. 

REMOVE. 

Roast Chicken Stuffed with Oysters. 
Asparagus on Toast. 
ENTREES. 
Sweetbreads Sautes in Butter. 

Macaroni and Cheese, Bechamel. 

ROMAN PUNCH. 

GAME. 

Mallard Duck, Apple Sauce 

Celery Salad. 

SWEETS AND DESSERT. 

Queen Fritters, Transparent Sauce. 

White Cocoanut Pie. 

Coffee Ice Cream. Sliced Pears in Syrup. 

Almonds. Jelly Cake. Raisins. 



MENU Nc. III.— BREAKFAST. Page 9- 

Braized Beef Rolls and Mashed Potatoes. 

Corn Mock Oysters. 

C;raham Muffins. Rice Batter Cakes. 

Doughnuts. Ginger Snaps. 

MENU No VI.— RECEPTION. Page 17. 

Bouillon. 
Chicken Cutlets. 

Small Potato Croquettes. 

Lobster Salad. 

Napoleon Pastry. Macaroon Cake. 

Frothed Jelly in Glasses. 

White Citron Cake. Orange Ice. 

Fruit. 

Coffee. Tea. 

MENU VII. -GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. Page :o. 

Broiled Porter-house Steak. 

Fresh Mushrooms. Frizzed Potatoes 

Oyster Omelet. Welsh Rarebit. 

Turkey Salad. 

Macaroon Tarts. Nesselrode Ice Cream. 

Pound Cake. Crackers. Cheese. 

MENU No. VIII.-BREAKFAST. Page 24. 

Stewed Chicken with Egg Dumplings. 

Codtish Balls. Steamed Brown Bread. 

Bread Batter Cakes. Crullers. 

MENU No. IX.— LUNCHEON. Page 26. 

Brook Trout in Cases. 

English Brown Bread. 

Boned Ducks with Jelly. 

Olives. pickles. Slaw. 

Orange Transparent Tarts. 

Fruit. 



120 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



MENU v.— TEA. Page 15. 

Lamb Cutlets and Toast. 

Shrimp Salad. Minced Potatoes 

French Rusks. Cranberry Sauce. 

MENU No. X.— DINNER. Page 28. 

SOUP. 

Scotch Barley. 

FISH. 

Baked Mackinaw Trout. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

REMOVE. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. 

Kentucky Corn Pudding. 

Radish Greens. 

PASTRY AND DESSERT. 

Boiled Suet Pudding, Wine Sauce. 

Lemon Pie. 

Scotch Seed Cake. Cream Cheese. 

Cornstarch Blanc Mange. 

Cider. Butteraiilk. 

MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. Page 29. 

Corned Beef Brine. 

Potato Yeast. 

Dry Yeast Cakes. 

Cream Cheese. 

Sour Milk Cheese or Smearkase. 

Pickles, Various. 

Home-made Vinegar. 

MENU No. XI.— DINNER. Page 31. 

SOUP. 

Consomme Royal. 

Lettuce. Bermuda Tomatoes. 

FISH. 

Broiled Shad, Maitre d' Hotel. 

Potatoes Francaise. 

REMOVE. 

Roast Ham and Spinach. 

Parsnip Fritters. 

ENTREE. 

Baked Celery and Cheese, Italienne. 

SWEETS AND DESSERT. 

Birdsnest Pudding with Sweet Cream. 

Lemon Pie. 

Boston Cream Cakes. 



MENU No. XIII.— DINNER. Page 35. 

Calf's Head Soup. 

Forced Cucumbers. Lettuce. 

Broiled Salmon Steak. 

New Potatoes. 

Roast Rib Ends of Beef. 
Yorkshire Pudding. 

Calf's Head Breaded. 
Stewed Oyster Plant. 

Lemon Cream Pie. Strawberry Meringue. 

Small Sponge Cakes. Frozen Custard. 

Cocoanut Candy. 

MENU No. XIV.— DINNER. Page 37. 

SOUP. 
Mock Turtle with Quenelles. 

Small Patties, au Salpicon. 

FISH. 
Baked Whitefish. Tartar Sauce. 

Dauphine Potatoes. 
REMOVE. 
Roast Beef. 
ENTREES. 

Cioquettes of Brains. 

Calf's Head, Vinaigrette. 

Banana Fritters. 

VEGETABLES. 

Browned Parsnips. String Beans. 

Potatoes in Cream. 

PASTRY AND DESSERT. 

Boiled Plum Pudding, Brandy Sauce. 

Rhubarb Pie. Chocolate Cream Tarts. 

Tutti-Frutti. Jelly Roll. 

Nuts. Raisins. Figs. 

MENU No, XV —DINNER. Page 40. 

Mutton Stew with Vegetables. 

Buttermilk Biscuits. 
Baked Rice and Milk Pudding. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



121 



MENU No. XII.— DINNER. Page 33. 


MENU No. XX. -DINNER. Page 43. 


Consomme Sevigne. 


Potato Cream Soup. 


Boiled Red Snapper, Shrimp Sauce. 


Boiled Pickerel with Green Peas. 


Duchesse Potatoes 








Stuffed Brisket of Veal. 


Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce. 


Summer Squash. 


New Green Peas. Browned Potatoes. 








Steamed Cherry Pudding, Hard Sauce. 


Bread Custard Pudding. 


Lemon Pie. Cake. 





Ice Cream. 


Cheese. Frait. 


Cheese. Raisins. Nuts. 


MENU No. XVI —DINNER Page 41. 


MENU No. XXI.— DINNER. Page 45. 


Onion Soup. 


Cauliflower Cream Soup. 


Breast of Mutton Boiled or Fried. 


Bluefish Stuffed and Baked. 


Mashed Rutabagas. 


Pigeon or Squab Pie. 


Lettuce Salad. 


Stewed Tomatoes. 


Boiled Cornmeal Pudding with Sauce. 
Hot Water Ginger Cake. 


Floating Island. 

Frozen Strawberry Punch. 

Italian Cakes. 


MENU No. XVII. -DINNER. Page 41. 


MENU No. XXIM.- BREAKFAST. Page 47. 


Scotch CoUops in Demi-glaze. 
Roasted Onions. 


Eels Breaded and Fried. 
Saratoga Potatoes. 


Hot Slaw. 


Broiled Liver and Bacon. 
Corn Batter Cakes. 


Boiled Molasses Roll. 
Milk. Fruit. 


Fried Mush. Wheat Muffins. 
Chocolate. 





MENU No. XXII -SUPPER. Page 46. 


MENU No XVIII.— DINNER. Page 42, 








Cornmeal Mush and Milk. 


Beef Pot Pie. 


Broiled Liver. Smoked Haddock. 


Boiled Potatoes. Light Dumplings. 


Vienna Rolls. Baked Apples. 





Sponge Gingerbread. Cookies. 


Boiled Cornstarch Puddiug. 





Stewed Apples. 


MENU No XXV.— TEA Page 50. 


MENU No. XIX— DINNER. Page 43. 


Salt Mackerel Boiled or Broiled. 





Potted Veal. 


Beef Heart Stuffed and Baked. 


Calf's Liver, a la Brochette. 


Boiled Navy Beans. 


Cauliflower Salad. 


Washington Pie. 


Sally Lunn Tea Cakes. Small Charlottes. 



122 CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL 


MENU No. XXIV, -DINNER. Page 49. 


MENU No. XXVIII.— GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. Page 57. 


Tomato Soup. 


Oyster Soup. 


Fried Bass with Bacon. 


Boiled Middle Cut of Salmon. 


Mashed Potatoes. 


Potato Boulettes. 


Boiled Beef, Horseradish Sauce. 


IJouble Tenderloin Steaks. 


Cauliflower in Cream. 


Egg Plant Fried in Batter. 


Larded Liver with Onions. 


Pain de FoieGras. Lobster Salad. 


Egg Plant Fried Plain. 




Macaroni and Tomatoes. 


Frozen Maraschino Punch. 


Spanish Pufif Fritters. 


Bavarian Cream. Pound Fruit Cake. 


Baked Indian Pudding. 
Sliced Apple Pie. Small Cream Cal<eb. 


MENU No. XXIX.- BREAKFAST. P.igG 50. 


Lemon Sherbet. 


Oatmeal Mush and Milk. 


MENU No. XXVI. -RECEPTION. Page 52. 


Spring Chicken, Maryland Style. 
Poached Eggs. 


Consomme aux Petits Pois. 


Fried Sweet Potatoes. 
Fried Apples. 


Chicken Patties. 


Boston Baked Beans. 
Boston Brown Bread. 


Frogs' Saddles on Toast. 


Buckwheat Cakes. Jumbles. 


Stewed Com and Tomatoes. 




Fried Macaroni, Genoise. 


MENU No. XXX.— LUNCHEON. Page 61. 


Cold Roast Ham. 
Egg Salad. 


Consomme aux Pates d'ltalie. 


Cream Puffs. Grape Ice. 
Glazed Eclairs. White Sponge Cake. ■ 


Lobster in the Shell. 
Celery. 


Chocolate Kisses. 
Neapolitan Ice Cream. 


Croustades of Chicken. 
Rissoles o( Macaroni. 





Boned Turkey. 


MENU No. XXVII.— GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. Page 55. 


Oyster Salad. 


Clams on tlie Half Shell. 


Cheese Curd Puffs. 


Andakisian Soup. 


Charlotte Russc. White Lady Fingers. 
Orange Honey Tartlet.-,. 


Broiled Pompano, Tartar Sauce. 
Spanish Stew. 


MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. Page 63 


Mashed Potatoes in Form. 





Crab Salad. 


About Whipped Cream. 


• 


Bavarian Cream, Best. 


Rum Omelet. 


About Puff Paste. 


Charlotte Russe. 


About Savory Jelly. 


Cheese. Fruits. Nuts. Coffee. 


To make Aspic Jelly, 



CHICAGO HERALD 


COOKING SCHOOL. 123 


MENU No, XXXI.- DINNER. Page 65. 


MENU No. XXXIV.-BREAKFAST. Page 69. 


Bean Soup. 


Fruit Salad. 





Fried Oysters. 


Salt Whitefish, Egg Sauce. 


Calf's Liver and Bacon in Gravy. 





Corn Bread. Hominy Grits. 


Veal and Oyster Pie. 


Baked Bananas. 


Boiled Hominy. 








MENU No. XXXV.— LUNCHEON. Page 70. 


Indian Pudding. 





Squash Pie. Pumpkin Butter. 


Beef Soup, Anglaise. 


MENU No. XXXII.— TEA. Page 66. 


Oyster Pie, Individual. 





Potatoes Baked in Milk. 


Chicken or Turkey Sausage. 





Grape Sweet Pickles. 


Corned Beef in Aspic Jelly. 


Chipped Beef in Cream. 


Tomatoes in Mayonaise. 


Butter Rolls or Tea Cakes. 


Apple Souffle. Wafer Gingerbread. 


Butter Sponge Cake. Apple Jelly. 








MENU No. XXXyill.— RECEPTION. Page 75. 


MENU No. XXXIII. -GENTLEMEN'S SUPPER. Page 67. 







Potage aux Amandes. 


Mutton Chops. 





Broiled Kidneys. 


Olives. Minced Celery. Cress. 


Broiled Potatoes. 




Prawns in Butter. French Peas. 


Fillets of Trout, Italienne. 


Sweet Omelet with Jelly. 
Cheese Cakes. 


Scalloped Oysters in Shells. 


Potatoes in Mold. 




Reed Birds Roasted. 


MENU No. XXXVI.— DINNER. Page 70. 


Rissoles of Partridge. 





Stewed Celery. 


SOUP. 




Puree of Beans with Crustt 


Fillets of Turkey, Mayonaise. Salad. 


FISH. 


Snow Cake and Fairy Butter. 


Boiled Codfish, Oyster Sauce. 


Pineapple in Liqueur. 


Potatoes. 


Meringue Shells Filled with Jellies. 





Apricot Ice. Macaroons. 


REMOVE. 


Wedding Cake. Fruits. Water Crackers. 


Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. 


Tea. Fromage de Brie. Coffee. 


Browned Sweet Potatoes. 








MENU No, XLI— BREAKFAST. Page 85. 


ENTREES. 




Ragout of Sweetbreads and Mushrooms. 


Florida Oranges. 


Stuffed Onions. 


Fried Chicken. 





Terrapin Baked or Stewed. 


PASTRY AND DESSERT. 


Water Cress Salad. 


Indian Fruit Pudding. 


Horniny Cake. Cornmeal Muffins, 


Mince Pie. Pumpkin Custard. Cakes. 


Apoicot Marmalade. 


Cheese. Fniit. 


Omelet Soufflee, 



124 CHICAGO HERALD 


COOKING SCHOOL. 


MENU No. XL —BANQUET. Page So. 


MENU No. XXXIX.— SUPPER. Page 78. 


Raw Oysters on Shell. 


Stewed Oysters. 


• 


Pickles. Shred Cabbage. Crackers. 


Cold Slaw. Olives. Winter Salad. 







Fried Smelts. 


SOUPS. 


Parisian Potatoes. 


Consomme Julienne. Potage a la Reine. 





Small Patties. 


Teal Ducks Broiled, Orange Sauce. 





String Beans, French Dressed. 


FISH. 


Fried Hominy Cakes. 


Baked Sturgeon, Anchovy Sauce. 





Potato CruUs. 


Chicken Salad. 


REMOVES. 


Apple Shortcake. Grapes Glazed with Sugar. 


Boiled Corned Tongue, Caper Sauce. 





Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts. 


ENU No. XLII.— LUNCHEON. Page 87. 


Roast Fillet of Beef with Mushrooms. 








Cream of Terrapin Soup. 


ENTREES. 

Stewed Lamb with Tomatoes. 


Truffled Oysters. Stuffed Oysters Broiled. 


Spaghetti and Cheese. 


Potted Ham. Sandwich Rolls. 


Larded Sweetbreads. 






Claret Cup. 


VEGETABLES. 


■ 


Oyster Plant Croquettes. 


Galantine with Truffles. 


Baked Winter Squash. 


Pickled Mangoes. 


Mashed Parsnips. 







Chocolate Layer Cake. Delicate Cake. 


RUSSIAN TEA PUNCH. 


Frosted Oranges. 


GAME. 


MENU No.XLIIL-DINNER. Page 90. 


Roast Partridge with Cress. 




Dressed Crab. Lettuce Salad. 


Vegetable Soup. 


PASTRY AND DESSERT. 


Soft Shell Crabs Boiled. 


Custard Fritters Glazed au Curacoa. 





Lemon Mince Patties. Rhubarb Tarts. 


Boiled Bacon and Cabbage. 


Frozen Fig Pudding. 


Larded Fillet of Beef. 


Naples Biscuits. Angel Food. Frait Cake. 


Stufifed Tomatoes. 


Frosted Grapes. 




Brie, Neufchatel, Camembert Cheese. 


Chicken Croquettes with Butter Gravy. 


Crackers. Fruits. Nuts. 


Terrapin Vol-au-Vent. 


Coffee. 


Stewed Cucumbers. 


MENU No. XXXVII— TEA. Page 74. 


ANGELICA PUNCH. 





Roast Grouse with Cress. 


Browned Oysters. 





Chipped Beef in Butter. Chow Chow. 


Fine Hominy Pudding. 


St. Charles Corn Bread. 


Banana Pie. Cake. 


Compote of Apples. Sponge Cake. 


Cheese. Fruits. Nuts. Coffee. 



CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL. 



125 



MENU No. XLIV.-DINNER. Page 93. 

Split Peas Soup. 

Boiled Rabbit and Salt Pork. 

Roast Sucking Pig, Apple Sauce. 

Seakale. Potatoes. 

Tapioca Pudding. Plain Apple Pie. 

Rice Cup Custard. 

Cake. .Fruit. 

MENU No. XLV.— SUPPER. Page 94. 

Old Fashioned Family Beefsteak. 

Baked Yams. 

Shrimp Toast. German Apple Cake. 

Molasses Fruit Cake. Peach Butter. 

MENU No XLVI.- BREAKFAST. Page 95. 

Stewed Rabbit. 

Hamburgh Steak. 

Lyonaise Potatoes. 

Omelet with Onions and Parsley. 

Yeast Raised Batter Cake.s. 

MENU No. XLVII.— BUSINESS LUNCH. Page 96. 

Ox Tail Soup. 

Oysters and Macaroni, Milanaise. 

Broiled Guinea Fowl. Chicken Pie 

Fried Potatoes. 

Cider Punch. 

MENU No. XLVIIL— CHURCH FESTIVAL. Page 97. 

Oyster Stew for Fifty. 
Fried Oysters (Without Eggs.) 

Clam Chowder. 

Clam Fritters (Without Eggs.) 

Boiled Ham. 

Baking Powder Biscuits. 

Ham Sandwiches. 

Sweet Buns (Without Eggs.) 

Meringue Cakes. 

Strawberry Shortcake. 

German Cofiee Cake. German Sugar Tops, i 

Coffee for a Festival. 

Ice Cream and Strawberries. 



MENU No. XLIX.-BREAKFAST. Page 101. 

Fresh Strawberries. 

Soft Shell Crabs, Fried. 

Breaded Veal Cutlets, Broiled. 
Sauteed Sweet Potatoes. 

Frog's Legs Fricasseed. 
Tongue Toast. 

Potted Tongue. Ham and Eggs. 

Rice Croquettes with Jelly. 

Finest Breakfast Rolls.' 

Waffles. 

Buttermilk. Batter Cakes. 

MENU No. L— DINNER. Page loi. 

Clams on the Half Shell. 
Florida Tomatoes. 

SOUP. 
Terrapin. 

FISH. 

Sea Bass Stuffed and Baked. 

Potatoes. 

REMOVES. 

Roast Leg of Mutton-. 
Roast Green Goose. 

ENTREES. 
Lambs' Tongues with Artichokes. 

Supreme of Fowl with Asparagus. 
Scrambled Brains in Patties. 

VEGETABLES. 

New Potatoes, Maitre d' Hotel. 

Stewed Butter Beans. 

Artichokes in Sauce. 

PASTRY AND DESSERT. 

Rice Custard Pudding. 

Red Cherry Ice. Raspberry Tart. 

Queen Cakes. 

Cheese. Fruit. Coifee. 



12d CHICAGO HERALD COOKING SCHOOL 


MENU No. LI.-TEA. Page 105. 


MENU No. Lll.— BALL SUPPERS. Page 106. 





Egg Lemonade for Fifty. 


Deviled Crabs. 


Catawl^a Cup. Plain Lemonade. 


Buttered Toast. Rice Waffles. 
Country Pancal<es. 
Peaclies and Cream. 


Boned Turkey Decorated with Jelly. 

Sandwiches of Potted Rabbit. 

Sandwiches of Potted Quail. 

Chicken Salad. Smoked Tongue. 





Tliree Cornered Tarts. 


MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES. Page 110 


Strawljerry Charlottes in Cases. 
Strawben-y Whipped Cream. 





Indian River Orange Jelly. 


Icing and Ornamenting Calces. 
Paper Frills and Rosettes for Cutlets. 


Lemon Honey Drops. 

Wliipped Cream Frozen in Glasses. 

Maraschino, Chocolate and Coffee Creams. 


Potted Lake Herring or Cisco. 


Neapolitan Cake. 


Curries. 


White IVIountain Cake 


Pressed Corned Beef. 
Head Cheese and Brawn. 
Pork Sausage. 


Layer Fruit Cake. 

Tokay Grape Ice. 

Hickory Nut Ice Cream. 

Richest Fruit Cake. 


Tomato Catsup. 


White Coffee. 




ANALYTICAL INDEX. 



WThe Humtiers Refer to the Article and Hot to the Page'^- 



About aspic jelly, 316. 

puff paste, 315. 

soup stock, 18. 

whipped cream, 313. 
Almond macaroons, 72. 

soup, 379. 
Anchovy sauce, 420. 
Andalusian soup, 271. 
Angel food cake, 443. 
Angelica punch, 485. 
Apples, baked, 219. 

cake, German, 501. 

compote, 377. 

cream for shortcake, 411. 

dumplings, 2. 

evaporated stewed, 195. 

fried, 298. 

jelly, 331. 

pie, sliced, 240. 
plain, 496. 

sauce for meats, 31. 

shortcake, 410. 

souffle, 353. 

tarts, 574. 
Api-icot ice, 395. 

marmalade, 457. 
Artichokes as a vegetable, 548. 

garnish, 549. 
Articles en caisse, 85. 
Asparagus on toast, 25. 

points with fillets, 550. 

Bacon and cabbage, 476. 

liver, 223. 
Baking-powder, to make, 521. 
Batter-cakes, bread, 82. 

corn, 228. 

rice, 15. 

without eggs, 508. 

buckwheat, 299. 
Batter, for frying, 285. 
Balls, codfish, 80. 

forcemeat, 157. 

egg, for soup, 156. 
Banana, baked, 347. 

cream pie, 490. 

fritters, 169. 

pie, sliced, 489. 
Bai'ley soup, 92. 
Bass, fried with bacon, 233. 

sea baked, 543. 
Bavarian cream, best, 514. 

ordinary, 290. 
Beans, baked, 296. 

butter or lima, 547. 

French, 407. 



Beans, navy, stewed, 196. 

string, 164. 

puree soup, 356. 

soup, 318. 
Beef, chipped in butter, 374. 
in cream, 327. 

boiled with horseradish, 
234. 

coUops of, in glaze, 186. 

corned, boiled, 1. 
pressed, 597. 
in jelly, 351. 

fillet, roast, 425. 

fillet, larded, 477. 

heart, .stuffed, 195. 

pot pie, J 90. 

ribs, braised, 145. 

roast, 162. 

rolls, braised, 11. 

soup, 348. 

steak, family, 498. 
poi-terhouse, 62. 
tenderloin, 283. 
Beets, boiled, 1. 

pickled, 116. 
Birds reed, roasted, 385. 
Birds nest pudding, 127. 
Biscuits, buttermilk, 177. 

baking powder, 522. 
Blanc-mange, corn starch, 104 
Bluefish, stuffed, 207. 
Boiled dinner. New Engl'd, 1. 
Boned ducks, with jelly, 89. 

chicken, truffied, 465. 

turkey, 306. 

galantine, 564. 

quail, potted, 568. 
Boston cream cakes, 130. 
Bouchftos a la reme, 255. 
Bouillon, 47. 
Brains, to cook, 363. 

croquettes of, 165. 

patties, of, .551. 

scrambled, with eggs, 551 
Braising, 10. 
Brandy sauce, 171. 
Breaded calf's head, 147. 
Bread batter cakes, 82. 

custard pudding, 140. 

stuffing for fowls, 30. 
for fish, 208. 
Breads. 

Boston brown, 297. 
home-made English, 88 

biscuits, 520 and 177. 

corn, egg, 344. 



Breads, corn. 

St. Charles, 376. 
mufSns, 456. 

muffins, wheat, 226. 

rolls, butter, 330. 
breakfast, 537. 
French, 7. 
sandwich, 463. 

rusks, 45. 

sweet buns, 523. 

tea cakes, 251. 

Vienna rolls, 218. 
Broiling, plain, 40. 
Brook trout, 86. 

fried with bacon, 233. 

potted, 595. 

fillets, Italienne, 381. 
Brown butter sauce, 482. 

flour thickening, 479. 

gravy, 478. 
Buckwheat cakes, 299. 
Buns, cheap, 522. 
Butter beans, 547. 

peach, 502. 

pumpkin, 326. 

rolls or tea cakes, 330. 

sauce, 44. 

sponge cake, 332. 
Buttered toast, 557. 

Cabbage, summer, 476. 

winter, 1. 
Cakes. 

angel food, 443. 

apple, German, 501. 

black, or richest fruit, 590. 

butter, sponge, 332. 

brown, ginger cookies, 
220. 

cocoanut macaroon, 56. 

common gingerbread, 185 

coffee, German, 525. 

coffee, French, 45. 

chocolate layer, 467. 

citron, white, 59. 

cream, small, 243. 

delicate, 468. 

family fruit, 503. 

fruit, rich, 444. 

ginger snaps, 17. 

icing for, 60. 

jeUy, 36. 
roU, 175. 
white, 252. 

layer, fruit, 587. 

meringue, 523. 



Cakc's. 


Chicken, how to cut up, 77. 


Crabs, soft shell, boiled, 475. 


Napoleon, 52. 


Maryland style, 293. 


fried, 530. 


Neapolitan, 585. 


patties, 255. 


Cracked wheat, 6. 


pound, 74. 


pie, family, 512. 


Cranberry sauce, 46. 


pound, fruit, 291. 


roast, 23. 


for meats, 361. 


queen, 555. 


stewed, 76. 


jelly, 46. 


rich cookies, 300. 


salad, 408. 


Cream apple, 411. 


lady-flngers, 442. 


Spanish stew, 274. 


Bavarian, 314. 


sponge drops, 212. 


truffled, boned, 465. 


imitation, 290. 


sponge, 378. 


prairie, roast, 486. 


cakes, Boston, 130. 


small sponge, 152. 


Chipped beef, in cream, 329. 


maraschino, 278. 


sponge gingerbread, 220. 


in butter, 374. 


peaches and, 560. 


snow, 388. 


Chocolate, 229. 


pastry, 54. 


Scotch seed, 105. 


cream tarts, 173. 


puffs, 130. 


fine white, 469 


kisses, 2 69. 


French, 262. 


mountain, 586. 


layer cake, 467. 


Roman, 253. 


wedding, 396. 


icing, 470. 


strawberries and, 528. 


Calf's head, to clean, 141. 


plain glaze, 472. 


Cream ,soup, celery, 19. 


breaded, 147. 


whipped cream, 584. 


cauliflower, 206. 


in vinegar sauce, 167. 


Chow-chow, home made, 375. 


potato. 19S. 


soused, 1B7. 


Chowder, clam, 517 


terrapin, 459. 


soup, 142. 


Cider punch, 513. 


Croquettes of brains, 165 


Calf's hver, 246. 


Cisco, potted, 595. 


chicken, 481. 


Canapes, or Welsh rarebit, 69. 


Clams, on half shell, 270. 


partridge, 384. 


Candles (see Appendix). 


chowder, 517. 


potato, 50. 


Candy, cocoanut, 154. 


fritters, 516. 


rice, 538. 


Caper sauce, 96. 


Claret cup, 464. 


salsify, 426. 


Catawba cup, 563. 


Clarifying frying fat, 84. 


Crullers, or fried cakes, 83. 


Catsup, tomato, 600. 


Cocoanut pie, 35. 


CruUs, potato, 421. 


Cauliflower, in cream, 236. 


Codfish, boUed, 358. 


Crusts, fried for garnishing, 


'?.ream soup, 206. 


balls, 80. 


365. 


salad, 249. 


Coffee, ice cream, 38. 


for soup, 357. 


Celery, to curl, 302. 


for a festival, 527. 


Cucumbers, stewed, 484. 


cream soup, 19. 


to make, 75. 


salad, 143. 


salad, 32. 


white, for parties, 592. 


Cup Catawba, 563. 


stewed, 386. 


whipped cream, .582. 


claret, 464. 


with cheese, baked, 126. 


Cold slaw, 414. 


custard, 497. 


Charlotte russe, 278. 


CoUops of beef, 186. 


and spoon measure, 5 


individual, 252. 


Compote of apples, 377. 


Curacoa sauce, 488. 


with pure cream, 311. 


Consomme, royal, 118. 


Curries, 596. 


with gelatine creams, 289. 


aux pates d'ltaUe, 301. 


Custard fritters, glazed, 436. 


strawberry, for fifty, 576. 


aux petits pois, 254. 


rice, cup, 497. 


paper cases, 575. 


JuUenne, 418. 


tapioca, cup, 495. 


Cheese canapes, 69. 


Sevigne, 131. 


wine, cup, 213. 


celery, baked with, 126. 


Cookies, 4 and 300. 


pastry, 54. 


cream, 109. 


Corn batter cakes, 228. 


pudding, 552. 


sour milk, 110. 


bread, 344. 


bread, 140. 


curd puffs, 309. 


St. Charles, 376. 


Cutlets, chicken, 48. 


dinner, 446. 


meal pudding, boiled, 183. 


lamb, a dish of, 39. 


pigs' head, 598. 


mush, or porridge, 215. 


veal, breaded, 531. 


liver, 286. 


muffins, 456. 




macaroni and, 27. 


starch, blanc mange, 104. 


Delicate cake, 468. 


spaghetti and, 432. 


pudding, 193. 


Devilled crabs, 556. 


toasted, or Welsh rarebit. 


pudding, Kentucky, 97. 


Doughnuts, best yeast, 16i 


69. 


fried, or mock oysters, 12. 


Double tenderloin, 283. 


Cheesecakes, 340. 


and tomatoes, 258. 


Dressed crab, 435. 


Cherry ice, red, 554. 


Corned beef brine, 106. 


Dressing, bread, for fowls, 30. 


pudding, 202. 


and cabbage, 1. 


for fish, 208. 


Chestnuts, sauce, 428. 


pressed, 597. 


salad, best, 571. 


turkey with, 427. 


in jelly, 351. 


salad, without oil, 250. 


Chicken croquettes, 481. 


tongue, 422. 


mayonaise salad, 68. 


croustades of, 304. 


Country pancakes, 559. 


mock mayonaise, 409. 


cutlets, 48. 


Crabs, devUled, 556. 


oyster, for turkey, 24. 


fillets, supreme of, 550. 


dressed, 435. 


Dry hop yeast, 108. 


fried, 450. 


salad, 276. 


Ducks, boned, 89. 



Ducks, mallard, roast, 29. 

toal, broilBd, 404. 
Dumplings, apple, 2. 

egg, for stewed chicken, 
79. 

light pot pie, 191. 

Eclairs, glazed, 263. 

Eels, breaded and fried, 221. 

Egg balls, for soup, 156. 

bread, corn, 344. 

dumplings, 79. 

lemonade, 561. 

plant, fried in batter, 284. 
sauteed, 237. 

salad, 260. 

sauce, 320. 
Eggs and ham, 536. 

poached, 294. 

Fairy butter, 389. 

Family broiled beefsteak, 498. 

fruit cake, 503. 
Festival, coffee for, 527. 

oysters for, 515. 
Fine hominy or samp, 346. 
Fig pudding, frozen, 441. 
Finnan haddocks, 216. 
Finger biscuits, 442. 
Fillets of fowl, supreme of, 
550. 

beef, 424. 
larded, 477. 

of trout, 381. 

r:si>. 

bass, sea, baked, 543. 
bass, black, fried, 233. 
bluefish, stuffed, 207. 
Cisco, or trout, 381. 
elams, raw, 270. 
clam fritters, 516. 
codfish, boiled, 358. 
crabs, devUled, 556. 
eels, 221. 

flnnan baddies, 216. 
haddock, boiled, 358. 
lake herring, 595. 
lobster, in shell, 303. 
Mackinaw trout, 93. 
mackerel, boiled, 244. 
pompano, broiled, 272. 
pickerel, baked, 199. 
prawns, in butter, 336. 
red snapper, 132. 
salmon, middle cut, 280. 

steaks, boiled, 20. 
broiled, 144. 
shad, broiled, 120. 
smelts, fried, 402. 
soft shell crabs, boiled, 

475. 

fried, 530. 
St li PLji-'on , baked, 419. 
Floating islands, 211. 



Fowls, to cut up, 77. 

stewing, 78. 

Mets, with asparagus, 
550. 

guinea, broiled, 511. 
Forcemeat for fish, 87 and 
543. 

boned turkey, 307. 

balls, for entrees, 157. 
Freezing ice cream, 38. 
French rolls, 7. 

rusks, 45. 

cream puffs, 262. 

fried potatoes, 122. 

peas, in sauce 337. 
Fresh mushrooms, 63. 

strawberries, 529. 
Fried apples, 298. 

cakes or crullers, 83. 

crusts for garnishing, 365. 

oysters, 343. 

parsley, 49. 

mush, 224. 
Fricasseed frogs, 533. 
Fritters, banana, 169. 

custard, 436. 

batter for, 285. 

parsnip, 125. 

queen, 33. 

Spanish puff, 239. 

sauce for, 437. 
Frizzed potatoes, 65. 
Frogs, fried, on toast, 257. 

fricasseed, 533. 
Frosting, for cakes, 60. 
Frosted grapes, 445. 

oranges, 473. 
Frozen fig pudding, 441. 
Fruit cake, layer, 587. 

rich, 396. 

richest, or black, 590. 

pound, 291. 

molasses, cheap, 503. 

Walantine, or turkey in jelly, 

564. 
Game. 

mallard duck, 29. 

partridge, roast, 434. 
rissoles of, 384. 

rabbit, boiled, 492. 
stewed, 504. 
potted, 566. 

prairie chicken, roast, 486 

quail, potted, 5C8. 

reed birds, 385. 

teal ducks, 404. 
Gingerbread, common, 185. 

sponge, 220. 

wafer, or fairy, 354. 

cookies, 220. 

snaps, 17. 
Glace, Napohtaine, 266. 

Nosselrodc, 73. 
Glazed eclairs, 263. 



Golden sauce for puddings, 

324. 
Goose, roast, 546. 
Graham muffins, 13. 
Grapes, frosted, 445. 

glazed with sugar, 412. 
ice. Concord, 267. 

Tokay, 588. 

sweet pickle, 328. 

Green peas. 138. 

Greens, radish or beet, 98. 

Guinea fowl, broiled, 511. 

pie, 512. 

Haddocck, orcod, boiled, 358 
Haddies, finnan, 216. 
Ham, for a festival, 518. 

cold roast, 261. 

and spinach, 123. 
eggs, 536. 

sandwiches, 519. 

potted, 462. 
Hamburgh steak, 505. 
Handed supper salad, 570. 
Hard sauce puddings, 203. 
Head cheese, 596. 
Heart, stuffed. 195. 
Hickory nut ice cream, 589. 
Hominy cakes, fried, 406. 
Hominy, coarse, 322. 

grits, 346. 

pudding, 487. 

cake, baied, 452. 
Home-made bread, 88. 

vinegar, 117. 

chow-chow, 375. 

pickles. 111 and 466. 
HoUandaise sauce, 22. 

potatoes, 21. 
Horseradish sauce, 234. 
Hot slaw, 188. 

Ices. 

angelica punch, 485. 
apricot ice, 395. 
Concord grape ice, 267. 
coffee ice cream, 38. 
fig pudding, frozen, 4-^ 1. 
hickory nut ice cream. TiS'.i 
ice cream and strawbt'r- 

ries, 528. 

with pure cream, 205. 
maraschino punch, 288 
Neapolitan, 266. 
Nesselrode, 73. 
New York ice cream, 153. 
orange ice, 61. 
lemon ice or sherbet, 224. 
red cherry ice, 554. 
Russian punch, 433. 
strawberry punch, 214. 
tutti frutti ice cream. 174. 
whipped creams, in glasb- 

es, .581. 
Icing cake, quickest, 264. 



Icing and ornamcntinfj, 593. 

chocolate, 471. 

yellow, 265. 
Iced tea, 397. 

Indian river orange jelly, 578. 
Indian pudding, baked, 241. 

fruit pudding, 367. 
Italian cakes, 212. 

sauce, 382. 

JeUy, apple, 331. 

aspic, or savory. 331. 
cake, 36. 
cranberry, 46. 
lemon, table, 393. 
roll, 175. 
soda water, 58. 
tapioca, 3. 
wine and fruit, 393. 

Kale, or seakale, boiled, 494. 
Kentucky green corn pud- 
ding, 97. 
Ketchup, tomato, 600. 
Kidneys, broiled, 333. 
Kisses, chocolate, 269. 
star, 392. 

liady-fingers, 442. 

white, 312. 
Lake herring, or Cisco, 381. 

potted, 594. 
Lamb cutlets, broiled, 39. 
roast, 135. 
stewed, with tomatoes, 

431. 
tongues, with artichokes, 
549. 
Larded fillet of beef, 477. 
liver, 235. 

prairie chicken, 486. 
Layer fruit cake, 587. 
Lemonade, egg, for fiftj', 561, 

plain, 562. 
Lemon butter sauce, 368. 
cream pie, 149. 
honey, 580. 

drops, 579. 
mincemeat, 439. 
mince patties, 438. 
pie, best, common, 101. 
rich, 129. 
cheapest, without eggs 

204. 
frosting for, 103. 
table jelly, 394. 
Lettuce salad, 182. 
Light dumplings, 191. 
Liver, broiled, 217. 
and bacon, 223. 

onions, 235. 
a !a brochette, 246. 
cake, or cheese, 286. 
and pork in gravy, 345. 
Lobster, in shell, 303, 



Lobster salad, 287 and 51. 
Lyonaise potatoes, 506. 

Macaroni, with cheese, 27. 
oysters, 510. 
tomatoes, 238. 
rissoles of, 305. 
fried, 259. 
Macaroon tarts, 70. 
cake, 56. 
paste, 57. 
almond, 72. 
Mackerel, 244. 
Maids of honor cheesecakes, 

339. 
Maitre d'hotel sauce, 121. 
Mallard duck, 29. 
Mango pickles, 466. 
Maraschino cream, 278. 
punch, 288. 
ice, in glasses, .583. 
Marmalade, apricot, 457. 

rhubarb, 440. 
Mayonaise dressing, 08. 
mock, 409. 
jelly, 387. 
Meat, dish of, cold, 8. 

balls for soup, 157. 
Meats. 

beef, roast, 162. 
tenderloin of, 424. 
larded, fillet of, 477. 
rib ends of, 145. 
rolls, braised, 11. 
boiled, with horserad- 
ish, 234. 
corned, 1. 

coUops of, in glaze, 186. 
steak, porterhouse, 62. 
tenderloin, 283. 
family, broiled, 498. 
Hamourgh, 505. 
pot-pie, 190. 
dried, 374. 
heart, 195. 
tongue, 569. 
corned, 422. 
lamb, roast, 135. 
stewed, 431. 
cutlets, 39. 
tongues, 549. 
mutton, roast, 544. 
breast of, 180. 
boiled, 95. 
chops, 355. 

stew, with vegetables, 
176. 
veal, loaf, 248. 
brisket, stuffed, 200. 
cutlets, 531. 
and oyster pie, 321. 
calf's head, 141. 
liver, 217. 
kirlnrys, 333. 
pork, sausage, 5S9, 



Moats. 

pork, head cheese, 596. 

pig roast, 493. 
ham, roast, 123. 
boiled, 518. 
potted, 462. 
broiled, 536. 
chicken pie, 512. 
roast, 23. 
stewed, 76. 
outlets, 48. 
patties, 255. 
Maryland style, 293. 
fried, 450. 
fillets of, 550. 
croquettes, 481. 
timbales v.ith, 304. 
trulHed, 465. 
salad, 408. 
prairie, 486. 
goose, roast, 546. 
turkey, roast, 360. 
with chestnuts, 427. 
sausage, 327. 
boned, 306. 
fillets of, 387. 
galantine, 564. 
Measures, cup and spoon, 5. 
Melon salad, 341. 
Meringue strawberry, 150. 
chocolate, 269. 
cakes, 523. 
for lemon pies, 103. 
Meringues filled with j elly, 39 1 
Middle cut of salmon, 280. 
Mincemeat, lemon, 439. 
good common, 370. 
Mince patties, 438. 
Minced potatoes, 41. 
Mint sauce for lamb, 137. 
Mock turtle soup, 155. 
Molasses roll pudding, 189. 
Muffins, corn meal, 456. 
graham, 13. 
wheat, 227. 
of fight dough, 226. 
Mush, cracked wheat, 6. 
corn meal, 215. 
oatmeal, 292. 
fried, breaded, 224. 
plain, 225. 
Mushrooms, fresh, 63. 

canned, 64. 
Mutton chops, 335. 
roast leg of, 544. 

]\fapoleon cake, 52. 
Neapolitan cake, 585. 

ice eream, 266. 
Nesselrode ice cream, 73. 

©atmeal mush or porridge, 

292. 
Olives, 415. 
Omelet, oyster, 66. 



Omelet with jelly, 338. 


Peaches and cream, 569. 


Hollandaise, 21. 


soufflee, 458. 


Peach butter, 502. 


lyonaise, 506. 


rum, 277. 


Pear, sweet, salad, 37, 


maitre d'hotel, 545. 


with onions, 507. 


Peas, French canned, 337. 


mashed, 94. 


parsley, 507. 


soup, split, 495. 


in form, 275. 


Onion soup, 179. 


new, green, 138. 


in mold, 383. 


Onions, roasted, 187. 


Pickerel, baked, 199. 


minced, 41. 


stuffed, 366. 


Pickles. 


parisienne, 282. 


Orange ice, 61. 


beets, 116. 


Saratoga, 222. 


honey tartlets, 310. 


celery roots, 114. 


Potato cream soup, 198. 


jelly, red, 578. 


chow-chow, 375. 


salad, plain, 9. 


sauce for game, 405. 


carrots, young, 115. 


yeast, 107. 


transparent tarts, 91. 


grape, sweet, 328. 


Potage aux amandes, 379. 


Oranges, breakfast, 449. 


mangoes, 466. 


a la reine, 417. 


frosted, 473. 


nasturtiums, 111. 


Potted veal, or veal loaf, 248. 


Ornamental boned turkey, 564 


radish pods, 112. 


ham, 462. 


Ornamenting cakes, 593. 


sweet corn, ears, 113. 


tongue, 535. 


Ox-tail soup, 509. 


Pickle or brine for meat, 106. 


quail, 568. 


Oyster plant, stewed, 148. 


Pineapple, sweet salad, 390. 


rabbit, 566. 


croquettes. 426. 


Pig, roast sucking, 493. 


lake herring, 595. 


Oysters, green corn, mock, 12 


Pie paste, common, 102 and 


Pound cake, 74. 


Oysters. 


204. 


fruitcake, 291. 


dry stew, 400. 


Pies. 


Prairie chicken, 486. 


fancy stew, 401. 


apple, plain, 496. 


Prawns in butter, 336. 


milk stew, 398. 


sliced, rich, 240. 


Pressed corned beef, 597. 


plain stew, 399. 


cream, 411. 


Puddings. 


stew for fifty, 514. 


banana, sliced, 489. 


birds' nest, 127. 


scalloped in silver shells. 


cream, 490. 


bread custard, 140. 


380. 


cocoanut, white, 35. 


oherrj', steamed, 202. 


sauteed, in butter, 373. 


lemon, best, common, 101 


corn meal, boiled, 183. 


fried, without eggs, 515. 


rich, 129. 


corn starch, 193. 


breaded, single and dou- 


cream, 149. 


fine hominy, 487. 


' ble, 342. 


mince, 439. 


Indian, brown, 323. 


omelet, 66. 


cheapest, covered, 204. 


rich, 241. 


raw, on shell, 413. 


pumpkin or squash, 369. 


plum, 367. 


truffled, 460. 


raspberry, 563. 


molasses roU, 189. 


stuffed, broiled, 461. 


rhubarb, 172. 


plum, 170. 


soup, 279. 


squash or pumpkm, 325. 


rice and milk, 178. 


salad, 308. 


Washington, 197. 


custard, baked, 552. 


sauce, 359. 


beef pot-pie, 190. 


suet, boiled, 99. • ^ 


pies, 349. 


chicken, 512. 


tapioca, 495. 


and veal pie, 321. 


oyster, 349. 


Pudding, green corn, 97. 


and macaroni, 510. 


squab or pigeon, 209. 


Yorkshire, for meat, 146. 


stuffing for fowls, 24. 


veal and oyster, 321. 


Pudding sauces. 




Plain broiling, 40. 


brandy or wine, 171. 


Pancakes, country, 559. 


Plum pudding, 170. 


cream, 128. 


Paper cases for charlottes, 575 


Poached eggs, 294. 


ouracoa, 488. 


rosettes for cutlets, 594. 


Pompano broiled, 272. 


golden, 324. 


cases, 85. 


Pork sausage, 599. 


hard butter and sugar, 203 


Parsley omelet, 507. 


Porridge, corn meal, 215. 


lemon butter, 368. 


fried, 49. 


cracked wheat, 6. 


sugar dip, 184. 


Parsnips, browned, 163. 


oatmeal, 292. 


transparent, 34. 


mashed, 423. 


Potatoes. 


white, 100. 


fritters, 125. 


baked and boiled, 192. 


Puff fritters, 239 and 33. 


Partridge, rissoles of, 384. 


baked in milk, 350. 


Puff paste. 53. 


roast, 434. 


boulettes, 292. 


Puffs, Boston cream, 130. 


Paste puff, 53. 


broiled, 334. 


French cream, 262. 


sweet tart, 71. 


browned, 139. 


cheese curd, 309. 


macaroon, 57. 


cream a la, 403. 


Pumpkin butter, 326. 


for plain pies, 102. 


croquettes, 50. 


custard pie, 369. 


Pastry cream for puffs, 54. 


cruUs, 421. 


Punch, angelica, 485. 


Patties, small au salpicon, 158 


dauphine, 161. 


cider, 513. 


chicken, 255. 


duchesse, 134. 


maraschino, 288. 


brains in, 551. 


French fried, 122. 


Roman, 28. 


Patty cases, vol-au-vent, 256. 


frizzed or shoestring, 65. 


Russian tea, 433. 



VI. 



Punch, stra-vvberry, 214. 


Salads. 


Slaw, hot, 188. 


Puree soups, 355. 


potato, 9. 


Smearkase, 110. 


of beans soup, 356. 


shrimp, 42. 


Smoked tongue, 569. 




turkey, 67. 


Smelts, 402. 


Quail, potted, 56S. 


in mayonaise, 387. 


Snow cake, 388. 


Queen fritters, 33. 


tomatoes, sliced, 119. 


Soft shell crabs, fried, 550. 


cakes, 555. 


in mayonaise, 352. 


boiled, 475. 


Quenelles, or egg balls, 156. 


water cress, 451. 


Souffles beignets, 33. 




winter, 416. 


apple, 353. 


Rabbit, boiled, salt pork, 492 


Salmon, boiled, middle cut, 


omelet, 458. 


potted, 565. 


280. 


Soup stocbr management, 18. 


stewed, 504. 


steak, broiled, 144. 


Soups, puree, 355. 


Radish greens, 98. 


boiled, 20. 


crusts for, 357. 


Ragout of sweetbreads, 364. 


SaUy lunn tea cakes, 251. 


Soups. 


Raisins, to clean, 372. 


Salsify, stewed, 148. 


Andalusian, 271. 


Raspberry tart, 553. 


croquettes, 426. 


beans, 318. 


Raw oysters, 413. 


Salt whitefish, 320. 


puree of, 335. 


clams, 541. 


mackerel, 245. 


bouillon, 47. 


Reed birds, 385. 


Samp, 346. 


calf's head, 142. 


Rechauffe of meat, 8. 


pudding, 487. 


cauliflower cream, 206. 


Red snapper, boiled, 132. 


Sandwiches, ham, 519. 


celery cream, 19. 


cherry ice, 554. 


of potted quail, 567. 


consomme royal, 118. 


Rhubarb marmalade, 440. 


of potted rabbit, 565. 


Sevigne, 131. 


pie, 172. 


Sandwich rolls, 463. 


with green peas, 254. 


Rice batter cakes, 15. 


Saratoga chips, 223. 


aux pates d'ltalie, 301. 


croquettes, 538. 


Sauces. 


cream of terrapin, 459. 


cup custard, 497. 


apple, 31. 


julienne, 418. 


custard pudding, 552. 


anchovy, 420. 


leg of beef, 348. 


milk pudding, 178. 


bechamel, 166. 


mock turtle, 155. 


wafaes, 558. 


butter, 44. 


onion, 179. 


with curries, 596. 


brown butter, 482. 


oyster, 279. 


Rissoles of macaroni, 305. 


caper, 96. 


ox- tail, 509. 


partridge, 384. 


chestnut, 428. 


potage a la reine, 417. 


Rolls butter, 330. 


cranberry, 361. 


aux amandes, 379. 


French, 7. 


cream, 130. 


potato cream, 198. 


finest breakfast, 537. 


egg, 320. 


Scotch barley, 92. 


Vienna, 218. 


hoUandaise, 22. 


spUt peas, 491. 


sandwich, 463. 


horseradish, 234. 


terrapin, 542. 


Roman punch, 28. 


Italian, 382. 


tomato, 232. 


cream, 253. 


maitre d'hotel, 121. 


vegetable, 474. 


Rum omelet, 277. 


mint, 137. 


Sour milk cheese, 110. 


Russian punch, 433. 


orange, for game, 405. 


Spaghetti with cheese, 432. 


Rusks, or coflfeo calces, 45. 


oyster, 359. 


Spanish puff fritters, 239. 


Rutabagas, 181. 


Scotch fish, 281. 


stew, 274. 




shrimp, 133. 


Spinach, 124. 


Salad dressing, without oU, 


tartar, 160. 


Sponge cake, four-egg, 442. 


250. 


tartar or Russian, 273. 


water, 378. 


best, 571. 


pudding sauces — index P. 


savoy, 151. 


mayonaise, 68. 


Sauce, dumplings cooked in, 2 


ginger cake, 220. 


mock mayonaise, 409. 


Sausage, pork, 599. 


Spring chicken, 293. 


Salads. 


turkey or chicken, 327. 


Squab or pigeon pie, 209. 


cabbage, 32. 


Savory jelly, 317. 


Squash pie, 325. 


cauliflower, 249. 


Scalloped oysters, 380. 


summer, 201. 


celery, 32. 


Scotch seed cake, 105. 


winter, baked, 429. 


chicken, 408. 


barley soup, 92. 


Steamed brown bread, 81. 


crab, 276. 


Scrambled brains, 551. 


Steak, salmon, 20 and 144. 


cucumber, 143. 


Sea bass, baked, 543. 


double tenderloin, 283. 


dressed crab, 435. 


Seakale, 496. 


porterhouse, 62. 


egg, 260. 


Shad, maitre d'hotel, 120. 


Hamburgh, 505. 


for handed supper, 570. 


Sherbet, lemon, 242. 


Stew, oyster, 398. 


lettuce, 182. 


Shortcake, apple, 410. 


for fifty, 514. 


lobster, 51 and 287. 


strawberry, 524. 


Stewed terrapin, 455. 


melon, 341. 


Shrimp sauce, 133. 


frogs, 533. 


pear, sweet, 37. 


toast, 500. 


Strawberry charlottes, 576. 


pineapple, sweet, 390. 


Slaw, cold, 414. 


punch, 214. 



strawberry shortcake, 524. 

■whipped cream, 577. 

meringue, 150. 
Strawberries, fresh, 529. 

and ice cream, 528. 
String beans, 164. 

French dressed. 407. 
Stuffing for boned duck, 90. 

bread, 30. 

oyster, 24. 
Stuffed oysters, broiled, 461. 

tomatoes, 480. 

onions, 366. 

veal, 200. 
Sturgeon, baked, 419. 
Suet pie crust, 321 and 102. 

pudding, 99. 
Sugar tops, 526. 

glaze, 55. 
Summer squash, 201. 
Sucking pig roast, 493. 
Sweetbreads, to cook, 363. 

au beurre noir, 26. 

ragout of, 364. 

larded, 430. 
Sweet pickle, 328. 
Sweet potatoes, fried, 295. 
browned, 362. 
sauteed, 532. 
baked, 499. 
Sweet salad, pear, 37. 
pineapple, 390. 

Tapioca jelly, 3. 

pudding, 495. 

cup custard, 497. 
Tartar sauce, 160. 
Tartlets, orange honey, 310. 
Tarts, apple, 574. 

macaroon, 70. 

orange, 91. 

chocolate cream, 173. 

raspberry, 553. 

three-cornered, 574. 
Tea, iced, 397. 

for a large party, 591. 

cakes, 251. 
Teal, broiled, 404. 
Tenderloin of beef, 424. 

steaks, 283. 
Terrapin, baked in shell, 454. 

cream soup, 459. 

soup, 542. 

stewed, 455. 

to dress, 453. , 

vol au vents, 483. 
Timbales with chicken, 304. 
Tomatoes and com, 258. 

with macaroni, 238. 

soup, 232. 

stewed, 210. 

ketchup, 600. 

stuffed, 480. 

in mayonaise, 352. 

sUced. 119. 
Toast, buttered, 557. 



Toast tongue, 534. 

shrimp, 500. 
Tokay grape ice, 588. 
Tongue, corned, 422. 

smoked, 569. 

potted, 535. 

toast, 534. 

lambs', 549. 
Truffled chicken, 465. 

oysters, 460. 
Turkey, boned, 306. 

galantine, 564. 

salad, 67. 

roast, cranberry, 360. 
chestnuts, 427. 

fillets, in mayonaise, 387. 

sausage, 327. 
Turnips, mashed, 181. 
Tutti frutti ice cream, 174. 

Veal cutlets, breaded, 531. 

brisket, stuffed, 200. 

and oyster pie, 321. 

loaf, 248. 

potted, 247. 
Vegetable soup, 474. 



artichokes, butter sauce, 

548. 

in gravy, 549. 
asparagus on toast, 25. 

points, garnish, 550. 
beans, baked, 296. 

Lima, or butter, 547. 

string, 164 and 407. 

navy, stewed, 196. 
beets, boiled, 1. 

pickled, 116, 
cabbage, summer, 476. 

wiiiter, 1. 
cauliflower, 236. 
celery, 302. 

stewed, 386. 

with cheese, 126. 
com, 258. 

fried, 12. 
green com pudding, 97. 
cucumbers, 143. 

stewed, 484. 
egg plant, fried, 237. 

in batter, 284. 
green peas, 138. 

canned, 337. 
greens, radish, 98. 

spinach, 124. 

beet, 98. 
hominy, 322. 
kale, 494. 
lettuce, 182. 
mushrooms, canned, 64. 

fresh, 63. 
onions, boiled, 1. 

fried, 235. 

stuffed, 366. 

roasted, 187. 
oyster plant, 148. 



Vegetables. 

oyster croquettes, 426. 
parsnips, boiled, 1. 

browned, 163. 

mashed, 423. 

fritters, 125. 
potatoes — index P. 
radish greens, 98. 
rutabagas, 181. 
spinach, 124. 
salsify, 148. 
slaw, hot, 188. 
sweet potatoes — index S. 
squash, summer, 201. 

winter, 429. 
tomatoes, 119.. 

stewed, 210. 

with com, 258. 

stuffed, baked. 480. 
turnips, boiled, 1. 

mashed, 181. 
yams, halved, 499. 
Vienna rolls, 218. 
Vinegar, home-made, 117. 
Vol-au-vents, or patty cases, 
256. 
of terrapin, 483. 

chicken, 255. 

Wafer gingerbread, 354. 
Waffles, rice, 558. 

baking powdei", 540. 

yeast-raised, 539. 
Washington pie, 197. _ 
Water cress salad, 451. 
Water sponge cake, 378. 
Wedding cake, 396 and 444. 
Welsh rarebit, 69. 
Wheat muffins, 226. 

porridge, 6. 
White cake, fine, 469. 

coffee, for party, 592. 

jelly roll, 252. ' 

lady fingers, 312. 

mountain cake, 586. 

sponge cake, 443. 
Whitefish, baked, 159. 
AVhipped cream, 313. 

frozen in glasses. 581. 

strawberry for charlottes, 
577. 
Wine custard, 213. 

jelUes, 393. 
meringues with, 391. 
Winter salad, 416. 

squash, 429. 

Yeast batter cakes, 508. 

doughnuts, 16. 

graham muffins, 13. 

waffles, 539. 
Yeast, dry hop, 108. 

potato, 107. 
Yams, baked, 499. 
Yellow icing, 265. 
Yorkshire pudding, 146 



